Ford Aerostar :: Instrument Panel Will Intermittently Not Light Up When Headlights Turned On
Dec 18, 2014
When I turn on my headlight the instrument panel will intermittently not light up. Is this a known problem for this concern and what is the remedy for this problem?
And with the HVAC, when I turn the HVAC to max a/c (even though is won't be until spring or summer) I have problems with the a/c wanting to turn off at times almost like automatic climate control, but it isn't that.
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2006 Chrysler 300 Limited. Very strange issue here. If the ignition key is turned on, and the headlight switch in ANY position (auto, off, parking, or on) the headlights and fog lights turn off and on on their own! No rhyme or reason to it. At first if the headlight switch was in the "auto" position, it wouldn't give me a problem. Now I can't shut the headlights off, the foglights off, or "flick" the high beams on by pulling the "multi-function" switch back. Long story short, i think the actual headlight switch might be faulty, but the multi-function switch not making the headlights do anything is what is making me second guess this issue. Where else I should look? Fuses are all fine.
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I have problems with my SF 2002. When i turn on my headlights, the instruments panel (odometer, shifts indicator and others) has no lights. Turning off them, the shift indicator lights again.
I have notice that when days ago, i have changed my radio the problem began. Maybe the problem is related with this.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe and wonder if the instrument panel lights only come on when the headlights are on? It sure is annoying not to have the instrument panel lit up.
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The instrument panel lights (dash lights for the gauges, temperature control settings, etc) have been intermittently going out on 2011 Santa Fe V6 Ltd, instead of lighting up when the headlights are on. We can see still the mileage display, the navigation, the clock and the climate control screens, however. Those light just fine, its just the instrument panel that is the problem.
Tonight, we noticed that the tail lights were also out. We think they have been intermittently going with the dash lights at the same time. The brake lights are working fine though.
The problem with the instrumental panel lights started a few weeks ago (we bought the SUV brand new in Jan 2011). When we took the vehicle to have the problem fixed, everything was working fine and they could not replicate the problem or figure out what was causing it. This evening the lights went out again. After we parked the SUV and had dinner, I went back out to it and the lights were working again.
What is causing the problem and how to fix it? Seems like this should be an issue covered by the warranty, but with the problem being intermittent, we can't be sure it will show up when we take the SUV in to the dealer.
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1999 Buick Regal. Instrument panel lights will not come on when we turn on the headlights. The dimmer knob is turned correctly. I've checked all the appropriate fuses (I think). The radio display is also affected. The time display almost completely dims out. This even happens when the headlights come on automatically at dusk.
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I have a Toyota Echo 1999 1.5 VVTi. Lately the Instrument panel / Dashboard has been intermittently turning off / on while driving. Its one of those digital instrument panels.
Fuses seem good , Dimmer switch works (only when the instrument panel is illuminated!) The other lights (none digital) on the dash work such handbrake , temp etc. always work fine, just the digital Instruments are causing the issue.
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A few weeks ago the dash panel brake light would light up when I made right turns. After the car finished turning and went straight forward the light would stay on for 2 or 3 seconds, then flicker and finally go off. This would happen when my foot was not touching the brake pedal. Now the brake light comes on occasionally when the car is going straight forward and sometimes when I apply the brakes. I do not see any signs of bake fluid leakage. The brakes are working properly and show no signs of diminished effectiveness. What could be the problem? 2000 Ford Focus Se DOHC.....
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2004 screw 5.4 xlt
I was driving home and heard a loud rat tat tat tat . I thought I might have run over something. I slowed down and the noise quit, pulled over, checked things out, nothing apparent. I was only a couple miles from home so Started driving again and the ABS light came on, then went off. Another indicator came on and went off... then the entire instrument cluster died except for the airbag light, no tach, speedo. Truck still drove fine. I stopped in the driveway shut her off and then tried to restart...no go. Kind of like a dead battery, tried to turn over.
Had a few things to take care of b4 getting back to the truck. Went out and I hear a continuous click, click, click back by the fuel cap (fuel pump)? ......but the truck is OFF no key in ignition. I disconnected the battery and the noise quit. Battery is showing 12 volts. I stuck the charger on. These symptoms sound like anything even possible???????
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I just finished replacing the instrument panel light bulbs on my 1997 Ranger XL, 2.3L, 2WD pickup. I wanted to share how I did this. First of all, if you never have done this before, go slow and take your time removing the dash panels as they are plastic molding and break easily. Allow yourself about an hour to complete the task. You will need smaller sized hand sockets to remove the screws. The very first thing you should do is remove the negative battery cable from the battery. This way you will not risk shorting out anything electrical as well as possibly triggering the airbag in the steering wheel column.
The key piece in starting the process is to remove the radio first and then central console panel that houses the radio. It pops out very easily by gently prying it out in the four corners. Once you get that piece out remove the screws the support the lower knee panel. In order to get that piece off you will have to remove the two screws the hold the hood release lever in place. Get under the dashboard and look up as you lay looking upward near the brake pedal. Pull the hood release lever and you will see the two gold screws. Remove them. This will free up the panel on the under side. The top side of the panel will pop out if you pry it gently on the top two corners.
Next, you will see a metal panel underneath the knee panel. Remove this metal panel as well. Now you will be able to remove the instrument cluster panel piece. There are some visible screws holding this in place, remove them and gently pry the cluster panel out. Once the cluster panel cover is out you will have to actually remove the gauge cluster itself by removing the the four screw bolts that secure it in place. After the screws are out, gently work it out of the dash slowly as you will need to disconnect three electric plug harnesses in the back.
After it is unplugged and out, on the backside of the instrument cluster you will see some round, black colored thumb screw bulb housings that house the light bulb. Just twist them and turn making sure to go in the right direction. Feel it out for the direction, I cannot remember which way it turns. The bulb housings are labeled "ILL" on the circuit overlay. I recommend you replace all the bulbs as you might not want to have to do this again in the near future. Once all the bulbs are tightly seated and installed just reverse the above process for installation. This is a fairly easy job and like I said it takes about an hour. Make sure you test the lights after finishing.
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I have a 2012 Ford F 450 turbo diesel dual wheel truck,my problem is an engine light came up on the instrument panel so i hooked up my scangauge and found the code P20BA I went further into the diagnostics of the scangauge and found nothing,i cleared the code and drove down the road and the light came back on could the sensor be faulty and if so does any body know where the sensor is located.
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I got into my wife's 2012 Camry LE and noticed the air bag light in the instrument panel is on solid.
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2007 accent GS check engine light will not come on the instrument panel. Showing a 650 code. What is wrong?
I bought the car a year ago. No check engine light? Could someone have dismantled the light?
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The instrument panel in my 2002 Hyundai Accent GSI quit working. I pulled the cluster and both bulbs were working (replaced them anyway). All lights and fuses work, including the dimmer. All I can see at night is the speedometer reading, lit by these two bulbs.
There are two holes, covered over, for two other bulbs. They were never installed! Hyundai dealer has no idea on what could be wrong. I can't see how the white part could have been backlit without these two bulbs. Doesn't make sense.
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I have a 2007 sonata gls with 2.4l engine. The airbag light on instrument panel stays on. A code b1102 has been stored. The code description is low voltage. I've been told its a bad srs module under center console.
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I've had a base model 07 Santa Fe for 4 yrs and I know darned well that the when the car is running, even with headlights off (as in daytime), that the gauges in the instrument panel light up, and the brightness can be controlled by rolling the dimmer switch (reostat) up or down. Now that it isn't working, after dealer replaced something nearby on a recall, they're trying to tell me that the gauges only light up when the parking or headlights are turned on.
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Noticed the lights on instrument panel dimming as you accelerate? I'm talking about the very top of the instrument panel located above the speedometer. I'm driving home from work last night and as I accelerate I notice the blue tint light at the top of the instrument panel dims... let off the accelerator and the light brightens back up... switched the car over to "sport" and give it the gas... light remains constant, no dimming what so ever... switched back to "normal".. give it a little gas and the blue light at the top of the panel dims.... car seems to be running absolutely fine, no issues that I'm aware of... but I've never noticed this before.... and curious as to why it only dims when the car is in " normal ", but not when it's in "sport" mode and the light on the dash is red....
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Here's the problem with my 1994 Ford Aerostar 3.0 engine. As many have mentioned here, I'm getting the 5 chimes syndrome, indicating an issue with the airbag system. My specifics are:
The Airbag light does NOT light, even when the key is first turned on. You would think the light might be burned out, but I removed the instrument cluster and tested EVERY bulb. After hooking the instrument cluster back up, the light still wouldn't light, but I still get the 5 beeps.
The horn works (haven't tested the cruise control).
I'm not sure where to begin troubleshooting. I have the basic Chilton manual, but it's not troubleshooting the SRS. I understand the cautions when working on the SRS system, but would like to troubleshoot it myself. Unfortunately, I got laid off, and I can't afford to go to the Ford Shop.
1994 Aerostar XL w/3.0 engine, 144K miiles
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I have a 1996 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L V6 with 114,000 miles. Last night when I turned on my headlights, the left half of my instrument panel did not light up. This includes the tachometer, voltmeter, and engine coolant temperature gauge. These gauges are working properly; they are just not lighting up. The rest of the gauges on the instrument cluster are working correctly; only the left half is not lighting up. Could this mean that an instrument cluster light bulb has gone out? If so, any directions and information on replacing that light bulb.
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When I am at a full stop, such as waiting at a stoplight, and I press hard on the brake pedal, the stability control light flashes on the instrument panel.
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4wd warning light flashes 3 times intermittently. Which error this means.
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