Have been the owner of a 96 4.0 AWD for 10 yrs and if they still made this van I would get one in a heartbeat. Been doing a search on how to replace the rear coil springs with no luck... is there special tools or procedures involved?
View 8 RepliesI have a 02 Explorer that has 2 cracked rear coil springs.
How hard are they to change ?
What brand to use ?
I was looking at the Monroe Quick-Strut.
I am doing an sas on my 93 f150 short bed. my issue is that I've made coil spacers out of 1/2" thick by 3" tall by 4" in dia.... as you can see strength is not an issue here. i bought 6" lift coils for a 93' then decided to just say f it and throw a d44 straight axle under it. the springs on a 78' d44 are the same dia. top to bottom. 93' springs get smaller at the bottom so i made this spacer for two reasons.... 1 to have smaller seat for the bottom of the coil.. and 2 so i could make up the spring length difference between the two springs. The spacers are leaning forward due to the 7 degree c bushings on the radius arms.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2012 F350 CCLB with camper package (front coil springs @ 6,000 lbs). I was thinking of installing F550 coils springs, which are rated at 7,000 lbs, to provide greater lift up front.
Before performing this modification, what lift was achieved up front?
My endeavor is not to achieve level, per se, but rather allow for increased tire size, such as 35's and ground clearance.
My recently installed Monroe Quick Struts are not dropping to the stock height, I thought I'd retrofit OEM springs.
I find that it's not easy to figure out what is the correct part. Various sites show differences in Japan vs US build, some show different parts for left and right and there's no particular consistency.
So, what are exact part numbers? This is a US built 2005 LE AT. The build date is 04/05.
I am lowering the front end of my truck 3" using DJM Dream Beams. I have cut out the rear springs and replaced them with a four link lowering it 4" and installing an air bag suspension. I would like to run air bags up front, as well, but haven't been able to find much about that. What size to use?
View 7 RepliesI am going to replace front coil spings on my 98 town car. Do I really need OTC 7045B tool to remove springs?
View 1 RepliesI removed all the spark plug wires for testing/cleaning and install new spark plugs, but stupidly forgot to mark the wires where they came off at the Coil Pack. yes, Now I cannot find a diagram for the Driver's Side wire positions at the Coil Pack.
(The Passenger side wires are 1-2-3, starting from the front of the engine, simple enough); The Coil pack itself has numbers stamped on it, so I have the Passenger side done correctly.
But the Driver's Side wires are not in a Sequence of 4-5-6, instead they are 4-6-5 (or something like that), and I can't remember their positions at the Coil Pack. Looking for a drawing showing the Driver's side Wires as they connect to the Coil pack?
Example:
Front Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (Front, Center, or Rear?)
Center Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (F, C, or R?)
Rear Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (F, C, or R?)
So, we have a CEL and we're experiencing the lack of power under WOL. Feels like the fuel is being shut off. Did a little research and I guess the computer sees the issue and will cut fuel if it recognizes an issue? Could be the reason its showing the "Fuel level too low"?
Vagcom shows as follows:
2 Faults Found:
000772 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 000 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100000
[Code] ....
My plan is to replace cylinder 4 coil pack and all the plugs.
My R is coming up on 140k miles. The shocks and struts are pretty beat and it rattles badly. I'm really thinking about just replacing the suspension components with oe type stuff or is it really worth it to spend the extra money on a coil over kit? A little lower stance and some adjustability would be nice, but not super important to me. I'd have to get a lower end coil over kit too, so is it really worth it? Or should I just replace the stuff and be done with it?
View 1 RepliesMy rear springs are worn out
apparently ... it's not a pickup ...
seriously though ... they are worn out
Here's a pic of rear springs off a 4X2 Ex.
They look the same to me with the exception of not having the bottom overload spring with the rubber snubber on it for the axle wrap.
I need a pair of stock rear springs so I can pull the bottom two leaves off in order to do a modded B-code, and these are available for me to use if they will work.
...So I think the time has come to replace the rear springs in my SuperCrew....They are starting to sag...nothings broken...spring perches look ok. Question is , Are the supercrew springs any different than a reg cab or supercab?
View 6 RepliesI'm going to be installing a 4" lift on my truck and was wondering what the pros and cons are using springs or blocks. I have the option of going with either the pro comp 22210/22415 springs or 22210 with a 5" block. With the block I'd be saving around $200 but I guess my main concern is ride quality. Dont know if the stock rear springs have issues like the front do. I'm probably going to go all spring but it would be nice to save a few bucks.
View 14 RepliesI need to replace rear spring packs on our
97 Explorer sport 4.0 auto 4x4.
What years should I look for? Will 91-01 packs work?
I know of a 92 4x4 close by that is being parted out.
My Ex has a ProComp 6" lift that was installed in 2004 (it's an 03) and it seems that the rear springs are worn out and sagging. I'm assuming the lift used the stock springs and blocks. I haven't measured but I'd say the rear is 1" - 2"s lower in the back. Question is should I replace the springs with stock ones? Maybe get springs that'll give me some lift and remove the blocks? Airbag it?
View 14 RepliesI have got a 5 door 2002 Golf 1.6l petrol, manual transmission with 190k kilometers on the clock. It has been playing up recently and the authorized VW garage is clueless, but still happy to charge for a miserable job...
The "symptoms" are always the same: I can start the car no problem. Plenty of water coming out of the exhaust and EPC light comes on, no power transmission (or very little). In this state, the engine runs irregular. Before all this happens, you can tell there will be a problem (this is not super obvious), as the car does not run smoothly in neutral, especially when it is at a a hill You might get away with another 50k but that's it.
Breakdown 1: Called out road side assistance and got it towed. Volkswagen dealer retrieved the error code P1564 and they replaced the throttle and some of the contacts of the throttle. (Costs 800 GBP)
Breakdown 2: However, 300 km later, same problem as before road side assistance retrieved error code P0638. The memory was reset and it did run perfectly fine for a short while (2000 km).
Breakdown 3: As before, error message P1564 was read. This time they thought there was a problem with the coil in cylinder 2 and replaced it (250 GBP) - also the one in cylinder 1 as "old". Picked up the car and it was not running smoothly in neutral and it eventually broke down after only 90 km.
What to get changed next? What is the real root of the problem here?
Since I bought this '05 Ex, I have had a driveline vibration. Not bad mind you... just barely noticeable when I let off the gas going 50+ mph. I had my local Ford dealer change the Ujoints and it worked a little.
I just installed Firestone Air Bags on the rear axle. I put 20 lbs. of pressure in them and it raised the rear exactly 1 inch (I measured before and after). After the air bags were in and pressurized and the rear lifted 1 inch, I took it for a drive. WOW! The driveline vibration is completely gone. Smooth as glass.
Question that I need opinions on from those who have more experience with an Ex than I do: Did my rear springs sag enough to cause a driveline vibration? And did the lifting of 1 inch put it BACK to stock height so that the driveline is now correct?
Finally pulling the trigger on some springs so I can get this work done, Tousely prices were great on the W's compared to local dealers. Here are some questions.
1. I am planning to go with the W springs up front.
2. Can I still use the B for the rear mod, or do I need C's to keep it level? (Or F's)
3. Do I need blocks in the rear, or just the springs on the axle?
4. Do I need the 2" shackle up front?
5. I have dual Fox shocks that came with the ex when I bought it. The prior owner said they ran a little rough. Are they able to be re-valved, or is it cheaper to go with Bilstein?
I have a 99 SD 250 diesel, I also have a broken rear leaf spring. My truck has a 3 1/2 in. block between axle and leaf. My question is this. Can I remove the block and install 4" lift leaf springs without messing up my pinion angle? The blocks look square. But someone toldme once they are made to a specific angle for rotating pinion for better u joint alignment. Sounds like it could be true.
View 9 RepliesI would like to add rear overload leaves to my 2016 F250 that for some reason I didn't order with the camper prep package. From what my internet research tells me I will need to add the frame tabs and rubber bumpers, the overload leaves themselves, and of course longer U bolts.
My question is, in all of the pictures I can find, there in an intermediate spacer block between the regular leaf pack and the overload leaf. I can find a part number for this block ( 2C3Z-5594-AA ) only for 2002-2007 trucks. The parts diagrams I've seen online at various Ford sites don't list a part number for this block on current model trucks. Most just give a single part number for the whole leaf pack.
For 2014-2016 F250 with the camper package, or an F350 know what part numbers I might be looking for? Do the newer model year trucks still use an intermediate spacer block? Any chance someone with one of the aforementioned vehicles can post a picture of what the overload leaf setup looks like on a new(er) truck?
I would assume if you snap an overload leaf you can get a replacement from Ford, so why can't I find a part number for them either? I'm pretty sure I will have overloads built at a local spring shop anyway, but at least want to make sure I'm matching the correct and current factory setup.