Ford Aerostar :: How To Change Front Axle
Dec 4, 2004
The van started going "clickity pop clickity pop" around corners the other day. I got under to inspect the CV boots and yep the drivers side outer CV boot is ripped all the way round, and the grease has been flung out of it all over the place.
I got a new axle assembly rather than rebuild mine. I am a little bit scared of this repair because it was what killed my audi 5000 turbo I had.
I am assuming i have to take the wheel, brakes, tie rod, off of the spindle. Then drop the lower arm, axle nut? Then the flange bolts on the inner portion of the shaft that mounts to the differential? I don't have the right chilton manual to look at!
On my audi, I never got the torque of the axle nut right and i kept ruining hub bearings. Those are a royal pain to change, and I don't want to do that on this van!
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I was thinking the other day, wonder if a 66-77 bronco 9" axle would work, width wise, on an Aero? Obviously, you'd have to grind off all the mounting brackets and add the Aero ones. Mostly just building the "ultimate Aero" in my mind,
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Have a 95 aero E4wd. Have replace driver side cv axle and drove about 8 miles then the outer joint broke. Had mech change cv axle and drove about 2 miles and the inside broke.. Same mech replace it and drove 3 mile and heard like rubber on metal like a flat tire. The cv axle did not break and won't turn when in gear. Back to shop with aero. Lifted on lift and jacked up front and rear. Turned the driver side and the passenger turned with it also it turned easy. Started it up and placed in gear, all were rotation except driver side , it was hung up. What should be fixed on diff?
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Whats the easiest procedure
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I have a 1997 Ford Aerostar rwd with a 3.0 L v6. I would like to know how can I remove the power steering pump. Furthermore, the reason I am changing the power steering pump, is because I am changing the rack and pinon mechanism. Additionally, I found the rack filled with hydraulic fluid. If possible pictures would be a nice addition to your respond.
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About two years ago I sold my 1994 Aero (transmission was going, and other stuff) and bought a 1997 that was in much better shape. But one flaw it has is that it was used somewhere with high corrosion, so a lot of stuff is stuck or rusty. I haven't changed the rear bulbs since I got it, but this week, 2 out of three bulbs went. Actually, I only noticed the 2nd one because the blinker went too, and started blinking fast. The 3rd Brake light on top might have been out a while already.
Anyway, to my frustration, I cannot open the 3rd Brake Light to change the bulbs. Even after I removed the 2 screws, the lens won't budge. I tried gentle prying, but I can hear the plastic starting to crack. I figure there are 2 possibilities.
a) It somehow got fused to the gasket over time. or
b) It was crazy-glued shut by some insane maniac (a long-shot?). In which case I can try Acetone.
For starters, once the screws are removed, does just the red lens come out, or does the black frame around it come out with it? I tried prying on both, but one of them is surely wrong. Worst case scenario is that I break it, and have to glue it back on or get another one from a junk yard. But that is not good... Meanwhile I am living ok with just 2 brake lights.
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I am thinking about changing the Gear Ratio in my 2014 Platinum F350.
History: I traded in my 2011 F350 DRW with 17" wheels and 3:73 gears to get my 2014 F350 SRW 20" Wheels with the 3.55 gears. I pull a 15,000 boat and trailer. The Drw pulled the boat and trailer with no issues. I sold my Northern Lite Truck Camper. I thought I didn't need the Drw any more. First time I hooked up to the boat I felt the difference in between the trucks in the acceleration and fuel economy. Old truck would get 11.5 MPG new truck gets barely 9 MPG going down hill with a tailwind. Over all the new truck is a little slower off the line but when hooked up to the boat it is a dog with the 20" tires.
So the question to you all is; gear change to 4.10? Swapping to this ratio with 20" tires will produce the similar RPM's and possible improve the fuel economy. I get around 18 empty now on trips empty. Around 16 commuting 25 miles to work.
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My 96 4wd 4.0 Auto has a consistent misfire in the #6 cylinder. I've change out the plugs and wires and am considering changing the fuel injector for that cylinder. Looking it over last night, got me wondering if there is a way to change out the fuel injector without removing the upper intake manifold and the entire fuel rail. As you all know, these things are a beast to work on when the engine is in place. So, is it possible? Inquiring minds want to know (and don't want to spend an entire weekend changing out on fuel injector if there is an easier way )
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Went to Mechanic today and he found transmission oil leaking at the green arrow. Ignore the yellow circle.
Big problem or small problem? Btw i hate that there's no dipstick for VWs' transmission oil level. My mechanic said the level is fine. Since Im not getting it fixed soon because I got school and stuff, how do I know if the level is fine?
Mechanic also mentioned that I should change my axels (i dont know if that's the right spelling)
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I recentily bought a 05 prius with 153k on the speedo I asked the dealer about if fluid should be changed out, they said they have never done one, what should I do and if I do it how?
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I drive a 2003 VW Passat StationWagon.
The mechanic changed the axle abt a month ago and I can now feel/hear a vibrating sound when I stop at a light. My husband says this is lesser 1) when he puts it in neutral 2) when it is warmer outside or after riding for a while. I agree with 1) but not 2). The mechanic says this will happen and we should wait a bit for this to lessen. Is this so?
In addition now, we notice that the temperature guage on the dashboard is not showing a reading. Not sure it is related to the axle change, since we did not pay attention to it that time. We got the mechanic to take a look and he says the engine is heating up fine (the heater comes on fine, though I think it is not as powerful as before), and he feels it may be bcos the thermostat is exposed outside. He asked us to wait for a couple of weeks to see if it corrects itself. I am concerned about this.
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Well I've got an nice steady leak coming from the front of the pan.... running aft of course (downhill, windflow). She's down right now for an AC overhaul and new PS pump/hoses, but I'm inspecting to see what is next to get this stinking oil leakage stopped.
Front HB removal and seal of course, done in situ (in position). But if it is actually the oil pan/seal, can that be done there also? Front of the pan looks tight to the crossmember, and how the internals look (tray baffles, pump pickup) I've no clue if it will come off. Once she is back up and running I'll ascertain where this leak originates.
Interweb searches show the 90-94 4.0L engine is notorious for pan gasket leaks. None of the writeups I've found thus far determine if that pan can be pulled where she sits.
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Noticed some spotting in front of the house, and saw some leaking coming from the driver side near the axle. I'm guessing it's the axle seal leaking. I recently switched in to 4x4 about a week ago, shortly after that I noticed the leak. I have a trip to San Antonio coming up in the middle of Feb, about a 650 mile round trip. Can I continue with the plans and get it fixed afterwards?
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Tried searching, but I couldn't find any good write-ups on how to replace a front CV axle. The boot on mine is ripped and spraying grease so I figure I should just replace the whole axle while I'm in there. In a previous post, I also found out that replacing the CV axle (joint?) is easier than replacing just the boot.
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its a 2000 limited 4x4, must have been in the snow a lot because it was from up north and is pretty rusty on the underside. my dad and i have tried everything to get these caps off but nothing will work. lots of pb blaster, hammering, even cutting the one of the four joints and trying to wedge something from the inside. If we cant get it could a shop do it? and how much might they charge?
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Well the old ball ball joints are out, new ones are in and now I'm working on removing gear assembly so I can change the inner axle seals. I've been trying to get it out. It haven't had much luck. I've loosened the cap bolts, prayed, pulled, hit, and still no luck. The only thing I've been successful at is screwing up the first few threads of the bolt holes for the passenger side cap. Tomorrow I'll be getting a tap and chasing the threads to clean them up. Hope I haven't screwed it up too bad. How to get the gear assembly out?
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When braking from very low speed to full stop (f.e. parking maneuvers), i often hear a loud "pop" coming from the front brakes, regardless of steering direction. I'm pretty sure this has been discussed before here but can't find a thread.
Brakes are otherwise working good (front & rear) but it's time to do a maintenance just to be safe.
97' XLT RWD, 3.0L Vulcan, 99890miles - can't wait to see turning over to 100'000.. hope, i do not miss the moment
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Was driving issue free most of day, when leaving a red light I noticed my i had to give the van some extra gas to get up and go, then i could feel the brakes getting tighter and tighter to the point where I had to park the van. So currently my van is sitting in a parking lot 30 miles from home with locked up front brakes. Both driver and passenger front wheels were hot to the touch.
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I'm looking at a '96 Aerostar AWD with 109,000 miles. The seller says that the right from wheel will "chatter", or act like it's on a washboard road, and that a "clunky sound" came from it. He says that it's only happened a couple of times at highway speed, and that it's intermittent. He's taken it to a shop, and they couldn't find anything wrong, but it's happened since then.
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Had upper control arm bushings replaced in June. Van has been pulling slightly to the right. Assumed it could be the tire since the front tires were due for replacement. Took it yesterday for two new tires and it still has slight pull to the right.
Here's the rub. The chain shop that did the work has since replaced their alignment machine and the new one does not have the specs for vehicles earlier than 2000. The machine also doesn't have the capability for manual input of the specs.
The manager has found a competitor that has an older machine and has arranged to pay for the alignment which I consider over the top. Evidently this is a trend we can expect to continue because in a city the size of Tampa, he could find only one shop with an alignment machine capable of alignment on an Aerostar.
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I need a vacuum fitting for the front axle..... Where I can get one besides a dealer ?
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