Ford Aerostar :: Heat Does Not Work - Missing Or Broken Thermostat Cause This?
Apr 24, 2012
I have yet another issue with my lovable Aerostar. This one I just noticed today. The heat doesnt work! Not that its very needed here in Florida, but its still an issue. I tried the heat function out multiple times today and even after driving for a good 20 minutes hot air does NOT come out! Only cool air comes out the vents. Well actually, for a few seconds when I turned the heat on it sort of felt "slightly warmish" but a few seconds later it was cool again. I don't know if this could be related but the temperature gauge is stuck at C (Cold) as its been since I purchased the van about a week ago.
I brought the van to my friend who's a mechanic and he looked under the hood and claims there is no thermostat, the previous owner must have removed it. I found this odd since the vehicle has yet to overheat and I know overheating is sure to happen when the thermostat is missing. Need to confirm if these signs are indeed because of either a broken or missing thermostat? If it is, I have yet another problem. I began looking on eBay for a new thermostat and there's all different kinds! Some say "190 degree" some say "180 degree" and some say other things. Here's a link to a "190 degree":
MOTORCRAFT RT-1152 Thermostat
If I do need a new thermostat, what kind do I need? Here's the exact van I have: 1989 Ford Aerostar XLT V6 with 4 speed auto transmission. Oh and just in case this has anything to do with it, the van has A/C but it's not currently working.
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Went today to check out a buddy's truck, 06 F350 164k egr and cooler delete. He finally did his thermostat yesterday, after not having warm heat for months. Today on the way to work, had great heat for about 10 miles, then it went cold. Pulled over to check coolant, cracked cap loose, let pressure out, now had heat again. Same thing on the way home. Had the white streaks down from the cap, lost a small amount of coolant, just at min line now. He's owned this truck since 48k and no heads have never been off.
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So I tried to replace my thermostat and housing and the housing bolt snapped off. Ok so I tried to extract that bolt off and the extractor bolt snapped off inside. I am guessing it might just be easiest to replace the water pump now? I am pretty much at the end of my mechanical rope which is short anyhow.
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So my issue, had heat last year, turned on first time this year and its cold. So I did some research on the site and have done a few things but still no heat
First thing I did was flushed coolant system and add new coolant as I have 235,000 miles on the truck and it looked rough
Ran the truck for a while and checked heater core hoses, they were both warm, not hot by any means so I pulled the thermostat and replaced the thermostat and gasket
Now the hoses to heater core are both hot and my temp gauge went up about 1/4" higher than it ever has, but still no heat.
Blows fine, just cold or sometimes luke warm. I pulled the glove box back to try and see I I could hear anything when I change from hot to cold and I hear or see nothing. Only movement I see is when changing cycles from defrost, heater, ac... So could this be a blend door issue an how do I get to the blend door, is it behind the big plastic plenum box?
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the only thing that is left to replace would be the radiator?my truck is a 1994 f150 and it is not overheating!i get lukewarm heat only on the highway,everywhere else it is cold air!!this new england weather is killing me
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Ok I have a 97 f150 4.6L. My radiator has been bad for a while. With brown rust color. I replaced my radiator, thermostat, new upper and lower hoses. Everything runs great but I have no heat. I flushed everything including the heater core. Core is not leaking into cab, and both heater hoses are cold. What should I do next FYI heat worked great until 5 days ago.
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Ok, my shift lever is broken where the OD button is located. Not the cap and button, the whole end of the lever has snapped off.
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My cars thermostat runs normal all the time unless I go up hill. I drive into the mountains to work every day. It runs about 80% hot until I crest the mountain and then immediately cools back down to normal. Since its winter no air conditioning running but heat is on at times. Only 37000 miles on car. Automatic transmission.
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When I had my heads replaced, the mechanic informed me that my cruise control cable was broken. News to me. It worked fine before. He said he couldn't find a replacement. I went to my local Ford parts dept. and they told me it was a discontinued item.
So I went online and ordered one from Direct Ford Parts and it did not match. The part number was FMC-F49Z9A825JA. In the parts catalog it says it fits 92-97. Not even close. The one I have has a screw off top and the one sent has a bolt on housing.
1997 Ford Aerostar 4.0 ... I really need my cruise control ...
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Yet another problem with my 2001 VW Passat V6 4Motion... This time it's the Thermostat.
My heat stopped working, and I brought it to the mechanic I always go to, and after a few hours of testing different pumps and hoses he's narrowed it down to the Thermostat. This is great it's only a 35 dollar part... BUT he says it takes a good 5-7 hours to replace due to the location. Is this true? He said the timing belt has to come off, which also means the bumper does...
He's not charging me labor for the initial diagnosis, since he didn't fix anything. (That's how he works), but I'm going to get charged for the 5-7 hours it takes to replace the Thermostat. My question is, is there an easier way to do this, or is 5-7 hours realistic?
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Have a 95 aero E4wd. Have replace driver side cv axle and drove about 8 miles then the outer joint broke. Had mech change cv axle and drove about 2 miles and the inside broke.. Same mech replace it and drove 3 mile and heard like rubber on metal like a flat tire. The cv axle did not break and won't turn when in gear. Back to shop with aero. Lifted on lift and jacked up front and rear. Turned the driver side and the passenger turned with it also it turned easy. Started it up and placed in gear, all were rotation except driver side , it was hung up. What should be fixed on diff?
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I have several problems with my 2008 Prius that I will try to list below and I have done much of mechanic work myself but now I am a little stuck with some of the codes that are coming up and with some of the problems my Prius is experiencing:
Here are the codes that were scanned when I took car to a local parts store:
Coolant Temperature Sensor Evaporated Emission System (Vacuum Leak)
p3193
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
Pump Control Circuit Low
" High
I replaced the thermostat and now I get the red light displays on the dash anytime I go over 45 and the thermostat light on the panel displays there is a problem. I think there might be air in the system. Should I have a mechanic bleed air out or is there an easy procedure that I can do on my own to fix this problem?
I have also purchased a water coolant valve and this will be my next part to replace at 106.00 dollars. I am not sure this will fix my problem with my heat but I do not want to replace the heater motor because those run 630 dollars each.
Being that it is winter I want to fix the problem so that we can drive the car with some heat and not get the red light to come on intermittently. How to get to the root of these problems listed above?
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My 5.8L XL Windsor van is overheating when idling or in traffic but cooling just fine when moving on highways.
The 5 blade-fan comes on as soon as I turn the engine on and the radiator appears to be working just fine, cooling fluid moving and no leaks.
I am a landscaper in NYC and often haul heavy loads through slow moving traffic in the city and would love to drive relaxed and not with my eyes fixed on the temperature gauge awaiting impending disaster.
What is the best course of action?
a) change the clutch and see how it goes...
b) change the clutch, the fan and the water pump
c) install an electric fan
d) drive the van into the east river
Another issue, which has me and my friends puzzled, is that I changed the termostat a while back in an attempt to locate the problem; I replaced the old 195 degrees with a 180. Since the change 8 times out of 10 when I start the van as it is warming up I have to rave the engine for the termostat to open otherwise it does not and I end up with overheating bang. Once it is open no problem beside the overheating while idling.
And one final issue after driving for a while the motor surges when idling at a stop light or in heavy traffic. I have been thinking a bad air sensor but my mechanic or I have not been able to fix this issue for years.
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My 06 prius takes a very long time to provide heat to the cabin. In temps below 20 F it can take 20 minutes. Today in 16 F weather the red triangle came on, followed by a problem banner, followed by a thermostat symbol. The triangle and symbol turned on a off a couple of times over a 5 minute span. I had been driving the car from a cold start for about 15 minutes when this happened. The car did start to produce some, but not a lot, of heat at about 20 minutes into the drive. I was also forced to use the defroster intermittently for the first 15 minutes (blew only cold air). After parking the car for 20 minutes I drove 20 minutes home with no triangle or thermostat symbol. Most of the way home I had sufficient heat.
I do have the front blocked with pipe insulation. I have owned my 06 prius for over a year and it has 257,000 on it.
Could the thermostat and triangle be caused by a low engine temp? If so would a stuck thermostat be a potential culprit?
Can I assume that if my car is blowing cold air when I am asking for heat that the engine is not over heating?
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1998 Ford Windstar 3.0 van. After in town driving for for 1/2 hour or more, my passenger side front wheel begins to heat up severely (partially melted the hubcap). It also begins to "grab" as if the emergency brake is on. when it cools off, it seems to rolls normally. I am nearing not hearing any obvious bad bearing noises when it is cool.
It seems like an obvious bad wheel bearing issue, right? Before I take it in to a shop to replace the bearing and the hub, I want to explore if it could be a faulty caliper that might seize when it heats up.(something I can fix easily myself)
What can I look for to diagnose? When it is cool with the wheel removed I see no obvious issues with the brake pads/caliper, but that is not to say it doesn't act differently when super hot.
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I had a reputable repair shop briefly check out the cruise control on my Aerostar cargo van. They said it is not because of a vacuum leak. What is most likely the problem?
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I was thinking the other day, wonder if a 66-77 bronco 9" axle would work, width wise, on an Aero? Obviously, you'd have to grind off all the mounting brackets and add the Aero ones. Mostly just building the "ultimate Aero" in my mind,
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I need to do the doors on my work van..Is there a hinge pin kit that works?
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I bought the car maybe months ago and the gas gauge nor the thermostat worked. The fan kicks on just fine never seems like it's over heating and it doesn't lose water or anything like that. For some reason it's a pain in the booty hole to put in gas it stops every 45 cents. When I first got the car the dash lights didn't want to work but kicked in and now they work fine also the AC button doesn't light up or turn on and the dome light also doesn't work.
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Okay, so all of a sudden my trailer tail/park lights don't work. Determined that relay wasn't working so replaced it. Wrong answer, still no lights. Further investigation revealed that relay ground was not grounded. Who would have thunk it? Anyway, the wiring diagram shows that the ground wire has a diode in it. Where it's located and where the ground, (orange) wire originates from?
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I just got the F150 ext cab 5.4 auto 235000 miles, and there is no heat and the fan only work on high. I am also changing all the coils plug and injectors. The guy I got the truck from said he never chanted them. I know it is going to be fun , soak the plugs and be careful. Any thing else I should know or do???
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