Ford Aerostar :: Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Failure
Jun 23, 2011
I got a code for Fuel pump secondary circuit failure, how do you fix it? 1990 Aerostar 4.0 2wd with A/T and A/C
View 14 RepliesI got a code for Fuel pump secondary circuit failure, how do you fix it? 1990 Aerostar 4.0 2wd with A/T and A/C
View 14 Repliesok i was just driving my 2004 ford f150 truck and it stopped running. I turned the key and it started back up again and then while on idle it stopped again. I took it too auto zone and it showed a code of p1237 which as far as i can see says fuel pump secondary circuit failure. does that mean i need a new fuel pump and how hard is it to replace.
View 1 RepliesI have a PZEV (Partial zero emission vehicle) 2006 Focus. Recently, my car threw the check engine light. Looked at the two codes, found out it was for the secondary air system. I pulled the car apart, removed the pump, checked that the pump was indeed receiving 12v (checked with a multimeter) with ignition-on-engine-off. I couldn't feel, or hear, the pump spinning. Figuring it was the source of the problem (as opposed to a clogged hose), I replaced the relay, thinking that perhaps it was on its dying leg. That didn't work. I next replaced the pump, which also didn't work. I can't even hear or feel the new pump running with ignition-on-engine-off.
I "reset" the codes, or so I thought, by disconnecting my battery for quite a few minutes. During the first startup, the check engine light isn't on. Starting up again though later in the day, the light returns. The engine does run a bit rough when cold without the pump malfunctioning for the first few brief moments.
Is the pump supposed to be powered and running for the entire time ignition-on-engine-off (I assume so since it is receiving 12v). How loud should these guys be? I would have thought I would be able to feel the motor spinning or hear something....
This is an update to my Heater Hose to Water Pump Failure post. As it turns out, the water/coolant pump seems to have failed at the same time as the heater hose. I think Ford secretly installed an internal time mechanism to deconstruct certain parts at the same time.
Anyway, in desperation I took the van to the local Ford dealer for an inspection. NOTE: I don't trust most of the locally owned small time shops and national franchises. Half of the time, they don't know what they are talking about.
They said the water pump is toast. And I already knew that! Then they said, because the water pump is attached to the front timing chain cover, they need to replace the gaskets there also, and also the oil pan is attached to the front chain cover, so that needs done, and then they said the radiator is also leaking. What!!!
Then they asked if I would be interested in buying a new or used vehicle. This tool works great. Mine happens to be a left hand fan. The tool is used with the handle on the left. This tool is used to hold Water Pump pulley stationary, while unbolting the fan assembly.
Tomorrow morning is when I finally replace the water pump. Not a lot of tool are needed, except for the stubborn fan clutch. Sockets: 8, 10, 13, 17, except a 22 mm open end wrench for the fan clutch.
I just wanted to share with you all about a coolant leakage problem I had experienced for a couple of days.
It all started a few days ago when I noticed the temperature gauge needle, which I hardly ever look at, began fluctuating in the hot region. I thought "oh my god" what is wrong? I then stopped at the nearest gas station and added some, I mean a lot, of water. My initial thought was the coolant level was too low.
The following day, I noticed the belts were squealing a bit (at that time I thought it was another vehicle with loose belts, but NO... it was mine making the belt noise). At that time, I did not realize it was because the coolant was leaking onto the belt(s). But then when I made a stop at a location for a couple of minutes, I returned to my Aerostar and noticed a trail of coolant leaking from underneath the vehicle.
I thought "oh my god" the water pump is busted! I then took it to a local repair shop and inquired about the cost to replace the water pump.
But after I inspected the vehicle more thoroughly, I noticed some dryed out green colored stuff where the heater hose connects to the water pump. I then removed the heater hose from the water pump and discovered to my surprise a tiny hole had developed where the hose is expanded from 5/8 to 3/4 inches.
My plan to repair the problem is to purchase about 6" of 3/4" heater hose (to connect it to the water pump), and a Gates or Dorman plastic adapter reduction fitting that reduces it to 5/8", in order to plug it into the factory original old heater hose.
This is an emergency repair. While inspecting the heater hose, I discovered an electrical connection that goes no where.
Pulled codes awhile ago...got a 96. Says "Fuel Pump Circuit Open"-Battery to ECA (1988 On). What is an ECA maybe the Pump Relay? And does this thing have a fuse for the fuel pump in the panel. Fuel Pumps not getting any juice.
View 1 RepliesSo i just finished putting in new high pressure oil rail cup seals in and a new #2 injector. Truck was running great for about 5 miles and then just shut off. When I had it towed home I plugged in the super chips tuner "no tunes installed" and I have a p0460, p0463, p2290, p2291. I also have a #7 glow plug circuit failure Ive been a little neglectful in getting done.
View 6 RepliesI seem to remember a old post but I can't find it! Someone replaced the fuel pump by cutting a hole through the floor.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2010 Ford Escape. The engine light came on about 10 days ago. I ordered a OBD which arrived the day that the engine light went out (two days ago...) Anyway, the OBD showed a P1490, which, according to google means Secondary Air Relief Solenoid Circuit Malfunction.
View 3 RepliesMy issue. 95 short Aerostar, Vulcan engine, A4LD trans. Just got it last week. Bought a new trans and when I went to pull the van into the shop, it wouldn't start. Cranks but won't run. First thing I checked is fuel pressure, got zero. Pulled the kick panel and found the inertia switch, but the harness for the switch is getting 1.8 volts with the key in "ON" and the same with it in "START". IIRC it should be zero in RUN after a second or two (if the engine isn't actually running, that is), and 14 in START.
Checked all fuses in the panel by the steering column, they're good, and switched around the 3 relays by the battery. No good and I don't hear the FP relay when I turn the key. For now I'll run wires directly from the battery to the pump, just til I get the trans done, but it needs to be fixed anyway because I plan to make this van a DD. Here are my questions:
-Is there a second fuse panel I didn't find?
-Could this be a computer issue? If it is, would the computer fuse be blown?
Is it normal in these vans to here the fuel pump humming? I hear it when I turn the key on and while I am driving. It never gets quiet.
View 3 RepliesGot this 04 Escape 3.0 FWD for my son's first car. It was his mom's and she drove it for years and parked it when she got another car.
I charged the battery and it is holding a good charge. Car would crank but not start. Fuel pump was not coming on. I pulled it out and applied 12V to the connector terminal and it started running so I put it back in and it worked fine.
Drove it home and cleaned it up, pulled out the bad window regulator, put it in the driveway till the next weekend.
After it sat for 3 days it would not start again. The fuel pump was not coming on. I assumed that the old pump that I revived had died again so I bought a new one and put it in and it ran fine.
Went for inspection but OBD2 was NOT READY so I drove it about 60 miles until it threw 3 codes. P0136, P2270, P2271 (O2 sensor problem).
I parked it again to wait till my next chance to work on it. 3 days later I was going to replace the O2 sensor but when I tried to start it the new fuel pump was not coming on again. (2nd fuel pump to die while sitting in the driveway).
So I figured the new fuel pump was a dud maybe, so I returned it and got another new one and put it in and it worked fine again. So I replaced the O2 sensor. Didn't have time to drive it 60 miles again to READY the OBD2 system for inspection so I parked it for a couple more days.
2 days later I was going to drive it around to make the OBD2 READY for inspection and again the fuel pump does not come on.
3 dead fuel pumps doesn't make sense to me so I have been considering it could be the Fuel Pump Driver Module but have read that's not an issue on the Escape like it is on the trucks. Plus I have been unable to locate where it is on this vehicle.
Having an intermittent strange sound coming from the fuel pump from its normal whine at start up to a gurgling sound almost like you are blowing back through the fuel line back into the tank. Going on a 300 mile trip, should I hold off?
Btw: it's a 1996 Aerostar 3.0L
Have an intermittent miss I can feel when driving 2006 F250 5.4 l 4x4 stick; Freeze frame from Cen-Tech 60794 (from Harbor Freight) scanner follows.
DTC CNT 0
DTC FRZF P 0352
FUEL SYS1 OL - FAULT?
FUEL SYS2 --
LOAD PCT 25.9
ELT (DEGREES F) 186
SHRTFT 1 0.0
[Code] ....
I can operate the scanner but what these ranges should be. What might be causing the miss? This scan shows 951 rpm, I was idling along in 1st in traffic, but I have also felt the miss at 75-80 mph (about 2300 rpm) on the Interstate and at other times, with light loads in the 1500- 2000 range in town.
I am curious as to what are signs that a fuel pump is about to fail?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2010 f250 6.4 About two months ago the truck just quite on me. I am a farmer in south jersey and have a decent background in diesel motors. First thing that came to mind was fuel. I assumed I was having a fuel issue (clogged filters, failed pump, etc.) truck only had 45,000 miles on it so I took it to my local dealership for what I assumed would be a warranty job. I dealer service all my trucks while under warranty. Long story short I was told it was a fuel contamination issue which scared the walls of the hpfp throwing metal pieces into the injectors, fouling them.
I would need all new injectors, fuel rails etc. as well as new filter housings, fuel tank cleaning, etc. I had receipts for every drop of fuel put in the vehicle and fought all the way to through the dealership to Ford who sent out a rep and who denied the warranty work. Fortunately my insurance company covered the ordeal and all repairs were completed. I got the truck back and 2 weeks later the truck died on me again. I called the dealership back who supposedly warranted the repairs but there first words were there is no way it is their problem, they would look at it but I have to consent that if they find it is contamination again I am responsible for the repairs which we all know just to diagnose they have to remove the cab etc.
I of course lost my mind and told them this is there issue and there is no way in hell I am that unlucky that I received 2 bad tanks of fuel from 2 different high volume highway side fuel stations in the same 2 months. it is obvious they missed something or there is another issue that was not addressed. They claim there is no way they missed something. I am at a standstill.
So at 55,200 miles, the fuel pump on my 2003 decides to quit today. I never got a Recall Letter and when I called VWoA in the past about it they said that my car was not one of those affected, even though it was within the years affected. So what do I do now?
View 6 RepliesMy 2011 has just over 27K miles on it. On Saturday the Check Engine light came on. The next time I started the car, it cranked over for about 5 seconds before starting, which is unusual. Then multiple times Sunday and this morning, it seemed to take even longer to crank before starting. This morning, it barely would stay running. And there was a lot of hesitation driving down the road.
I scanned it with my OBD II scanner and got P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Low). I dropped it off at the dealer this morning and jut got a call that they are replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pump. But they had to special order it overnight and probably won't have it replaced for another day after that.
Is the high pressure fuel pump the device sticking out the top of the valve cover on the back, driver side of the valve cover, with the multiple fuel lines going into/out of it?
Several years ago I had to replace the fuel pump - truck had about 100,000 miles. Within the last 4 - 5 months I have replaced the fuel pump twice and just today (about two months since the last replacement), the fuel pump has failed again. That has been the pattern now for the last several months. I have had the work done by one of the reputable car repair shops in town - they have also done work on my 2004 Impala with no issues with the repair. There must be something else going on besides just the fuel pump going bad. What would cause so many fuel pump failures.
View 16 RepliesI have a 2003 bmw 330xi with 136k miles that wont pass smog because the secondary air monitor wont complete. At this point im stumped and there's not check engine codes set or pending. I replaced all vacuum lines, verified the vacuum switch controlling the system works and holds pressure. Verified the valve works and even replaced it just to make sure. Air pimp works and stays on for required time. I even manually opened the valve with a vacuum pump and still nothing. Someone mentioned that a lazy O2 sensor could be the issue but all other monitors complete with no problems within 15 mins.
View 10 RepliesThe 2005 Avalon has 48K miles and it's been running well without any issues, until today.
Driving in city traffic, max speed is about 30 ml/h, The "Check Engine" light and the "VSC (Vehicle Slip Control) Off" lights came on. I did stop the engine, restarted after couple of minutes and the same lights stayed on. The car ran just fine, no noticeable difference in performance.
With the OBDCOM reader, the Avalon has this code:
P0351 232
P0351 Ignition coil A primary/secondary circuit malfunction
That seems to indicate a malfunction for cylinder A, or #1, ignition coil that has nothing to do with the "VSC" AFAIK. Is this a misread by OBDCOM reader, or the Avalon is confused?
The code had been reset via the OBDCOM reader, the car runs fine, neither of the lights come on now. Should I do something about coil A, or just wait until the code comes back?