Ford Aerostar :: Engine Cranking While At Start Up And After Turning Off?
Jun 19, 2017
I've got a 1993 Ford Aerostar XLT. Was running great until yesterday, when I turned the ignition and got nothing but a click every time the key was turned. Checked the battery (had power), bridged the relay (just got clicks but didn't turn over)....so I concluded the starter was bad.
I installed a new starter motor/starter Selinoid today. The van started right up, but next start the engine kept cranking (even while van was running and after shutting off)...I had to disconnect the battery cable for it to stop. Next start the problem didn't persist...but the time after that it happened again.
Any thoughts as to what is going on, or where to start in tackling this problem?
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All of a sudden all the power to the van just quits when I try to start it. I put a load test on the battery and it seems fine. I've still got power at the battery terminals when everything is dead - no dome light or anything else.
We went out for lunch and had to get a jump to get back home. The battery was turning the engine just fine before this sudden event. What would kill all the power to everything every time I try to start it? After some time goes by, the dome lights and chime come back but I can no longer turn the engine over to start it up.
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A friends car broke down. He has a 1990 ford escort. It would turn over, but would not crank. I took a look at it and the timing belt was off. Replaced it today, and the car is still turning over but not cranking. The timing is set right, its getting gas, and its getting fire. What else could be causing it to turn over but not crank?
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Lately my '97 Aerostar has required a lot of cranking to get started. Like...sometimes 15-20 seconds before it fires. If I get it started, drive somewhere, shut it down, and then a few minutes later try to start it, it starts right up.
-Interesting: I've discovered that I can start it if I crank it 15-20 seconds. But I can start it far quicker if I crank for about 5 seconds, stop, and then crank it again. Then it typically starts right up.
It has done this on rare occasion for the past few years, but lately it is becoming the Norm, so something is wrong.
Hmm. Leaking injector comes to mind, but the oil doesn't smell like gas.
What is the failure mode of the fuel pump, and do I really have to remove the drive shaft and drop the tank to change the fuel pump?
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RE: FORD PROBE GL (non-turbo). Last week suddenly car wouldn't start Thurs. night. Cranked but would not turn over. Heard click at ignition switch area when key turned to start position. (Although I could only hear one click from inside the vehicle with windows shut, I was told that clicks audible under the hood from standing outside.) Tried jump starting (from a good battery using proper connections) unsuccessfully, repeated tries several minutes apart, allowing longer and longer time to charge. About every third attempt, instead of cranking sounds, I would get silence, with only the click audible.
Temperatures decreased from approximately 50s to 20s when symptoms began.Battery is old but tests good/replace soon: 330+ CCA at 43 degrees, original rating CCA 530 (silver battery now at 7 years. Will replace, but garage did not have required size 56). At that point, the amps gauge read at the low end of the normal range (and today it read mid-way in the normal range).Had car towed to garage on Friday. Mechanic looked at on Saturday and decided it was the inertia switch, which he said had "tripped".I watched video for technicians on inertia switch but it shows on newer Fords. Mine is not located at the kick panel and does not have a red button on top. I am not certain from my experience whether the reset button would actually be in a different position when tripped or he merely surmised that is what had happened, despite my telling the shop manager that I had not so much as bumped a curb. Also, the trunk was not slammed or even opened prior to the car not starting.
Car presumably started fine at mechanic when they pulled it into the garage to put air in tires and back out to the lot, as well as when I started it to drive home on Sunday. However, on Tuesday it would not start. Just in case, I depressed inertia switch reset and tried cranking again several times, giving it some gas, until I was actually pumping it vigorously in desperation as a last resort (several seconds turning key each time), and on about the 5th try, the engine began to catch just as I was releasing the key. Reset the inertia switch one more time (just in case), and after a couple more attempts, it finally started, but when I was going in reverse to back out and then putting in gear to start out in first gear, for about 15 seconds total, I heard a bizarre loud, fairly high-pitched whistle/whine type of sound that seemed to come from under the hood coming through the central area of the dash where the radio is located.
Drove about 5 miles to my job, and about 2 hours later was able to start the car on the first try. Lately usually driven relatively short distances of 2-4 miles, with a longer drive of 11 miles broken up into 6 miles + 5 miles on the return trip the night before this started happening.
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Have a 91 Aerostar that won't start. Has fuel pressure, pulse to fuel injectors, strong spark, strong compression, etc.
Thinking that the spark may be coming at the wrong time I tried a spare ignition module that I keep. No luck. Since my distributor had a lifetime warranty I got another one, again, thinking spark was coming at wrong time. Nothing. Engine won't even pop.
I am going to drop the front pipe in the unlikely even that the new converter is plugged or, somewhat more likely, the muffler, but I am leaning toward a computer at this point.. Still don't understand since it is getting spark and gas why engine won't even pop.
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My 99 b2500 4 cly shut off on the road this morning and now will not start. She'll turn over just fine but no sputtering or almost-starting. The engine light isn't on when i try to crank it. Any deductive checklist so i can start narrowing down the problem?
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First, how can I get the fault codes from ABS system? I cannot find the connector from where to activate it. Looking for a picture where is it located, and how does it look letterike?
Second problem is with starting, occurs sometimes. I just crank the engine, but it doesn't start, when I play with gas pedal, then it will start with 2-3 cylinders, runs really rough for half a minute like this (I hold the gas pedal down, otherwise would die), then gradually gets better until normalizes. Some other time, starts and runs fine. It could happen both with cold or warm engine.
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I just finished installing a new set of injectors, standpipes and the blue spring kit on our 2005 Excursion 6.0. The truck idles and runs much better but now it takes almost two seconds of cranking to start the engine. Cold and hot are the same and the length of time between shut down and start doesn't seem to matter either.
What to check? I am planning to check the ICP tonight when I get home. Could I have air trapped some where in the system? This is my first powerstroke so I don't know if this is a possibility.
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My 2002 Windstar SEL has been giving me a fit and I`m not getting any codes as to why. Here`s the 2 main issues. Clicking when i go to start up in a.m. if it`s below 50 degrees. ( Battery has been checked and all is o.k. or so I was informed). As long as it`s warm it starts fine every time. Also,it seems like the least bit of wet on the underside will cause it to spit and sputter and the check engine light will start blinking until it sits and dries for a while. (A very shallow puddle less than 6 inches deep at low speed or even the automatic car wash that sprays the undercarriage).
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I have a 2013 GS350 F sport with 56k miles. It was running fine yesterday, but today it wouldn't start. The engine keeps cranking but does not start. When you first try to start it, several lights come on, but after a few seconds they go away, but these lights remain on (see picture below). My advisor from Lexus said the light with the steering wheel and ! is for the power steering system.
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I just replaced the auto transmission in my 1988 accord and upon first restart the car will not idle. I has been sitting for about 6 months while I replaced the trans, but was a daily driver prior to that. The car initially starts fine when cold, but shortly after startup starts running very rich and dies. Restart after this requires the throttle pedal to be held down. Engine will start after some cranking - but will not run under 2500 RPM and is obviously very rich. I've rebuild carbs before so I'm thinking about picking up a rebuild kit - just wondering if there could be other parts of the fuel control system that might be at fault.
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I have a 03 f250 6.0 . I rebuilt the whole top end. When i finished it 15 months later due to personal issues I started it. It ran for about 4 hours i turned it off the next day i went to start it again and didn't kick over so i figured it was batteries they might of died (it was about 3 degrees out) so i went to get new batteries put them in and it started using diesel 911 and starter fluided i let it run for awhile. I went back the next day to start it and it did t turn over it just kept cranking and started to die out so i stopped trying. Now a week later I am at it again. Could it be not starting because of bad fuel trying to get through the system or could it be something else?
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My Aerostar lately has been doing some weird things when going around corners. Whenever I'm going around a corner and I give the wheel a good turn the whole front end and the steering wheel start to shudder hard, and it sounds like the engine is being slightly bogged down. As soon as I finish though and straighten out it goes away immediately. Could this be the serpentine belt or the PS?
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Corolla 2009.. battery died.. jump started it.. alarm went off on my car since i accidentally put my car key in the other car and tried to start the car. Got the alarm to stop after i disconnected the jumper cables.. Now my car won't start after 20 minutes of keeping on the other car with jumper cables.. Light work but stereo and dashboards light wont come up either.. The keyless entry locks the car but does not unlocks it.. When I put my key in the ignition, the security light stops flashing..
My headlights and interiors light work.. The engine is cranking when i try to start it, but wont go fully through..
Model: corolla
Year: 2009
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What updates were done to the 3.6 engine for 2008? So far in 100 or so miles I've noticed that the 2008 3.6 is:
Much easier to start. (06/07 requires cranking much longer to start)
idles smoother (06/07 shook a little when sitting at idle)
accelerates smoother
then the 2007.5 3.6 I had, and the 2006 3.6 in my friends Passat.
Both of those did have the OJ update done. The only visual difference is the plastic engine cover. On the 06 and 07 it has a silver colored cover. the 08 has a black cover that is different in shape.
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So I drove my F150 to work as always, with no problems. I went to leave and it fired right up, but it wouldn't shift out of park. The emergency brake light was on even though the brake was not applied, the traction control light was on even though I wasn't moving, and the tire pressure warning light was on even though all tires are new and inflated properly. I removed the cables from the battery and brushed the contacts even though there was no grime on them, and when I went to start it, it just kept cranking without turning over. So I turned it to off and gave it one more shot and it fired right up, and drove like it was perfectly fine. Why this happened? I got 75k miles on it and have never had a problem...
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I've got a 1993 ford aerostar. Today, my steering wheel started shaking/rattling when I turn the steering wheel. Seems to be more obvious when turning right rather than left, and is only obvious at low speeds.
Only thing out of usual was that the front had been on jacks for a few days for an unrelated (starter) repair. What to check or how to isolate? I imagine it has to do with the power steering but not sure what to check.
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Last week I started having problems with my 05 Accent, hatchback, 1.6L engine, automatic transmission. Filled the tank up with gas and the car stalled pulling out of the station and wouldn't start unless I pumped the gas while cranking the engine. Ran and started fine after that and I thought it may have just been an air bubble in the fuel line, since there wasn't a check engine light or any other symptoms after that. Fast forward to this morning and the check engine light comes on during my commute and when I checked it, it gave an EVAP code (P0441). I also stopped to refill the gas and it stalled again as I was leaving the station. Also after I measured the gas mileage I found that I'd lost around 7 mpg (from around 30 to around 23).
I've never heard of EVAP problems causing stalling and loss of gas mileage but I'm not all that familiar with these systems so I don't really know. I'm going to test if it's the gas cap going bad since on the list of things that could cause a P0441 that seems to be the easiest place to start, but other than that where to start looking?
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I recently bought an 02 Chrysler sebring (4 cyl) When cold, it takes about 5-10 secs of cranking for engine to start. Is that normal?
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I've got a 95 Aero 4.0 awd. I've just replaced the power steering pump with a cardone. Wished I didn't cause of the noise but afterwards the steering feels like it's in a bind when turning to the left. It may have been doing it before, the cv axles were shot when i bought her. I'm suspecting the rack is going bad. How hard is it to replace it on the awd?
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