Ford Aerostar :: Egr Switch - No Clicking When Power Is Applied
Jun 29, 2015
The egr switch is it a solenoid like the purge solenoid cause if it is I have 3 of them that have vacuum flowing through the input port/lower input with no power. Also no clicking when power is applied. What the heck. Isn't it just an on off solenoid..
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On my 97, I cannot power LOCK the doors from the driver's door switch. All other functions work okay. Jumping the switch has no effect.
On the wiring diagram the wires from right and left door switches come together at the relay (seems logical). Where the relay is located?
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Key has been "loose" for some time. Would sometimes be able to remove it with engine running. Earlier today I could not return the key to shut off to stop the engine. Pulled a fuse to shut down the engine and then disconnected the battery. With the battery connection restored, the key will return to start and crank, but only will spin towards shut off and will no longer de-energize. Is this a cylinder replacement fix? Tried a very seldom used key to no avail.
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I hate trolling for a diagnosis, but my trip to the dealer left me frustrated. 2011 GTI with 33k miles and APR stage 1 flash. Just within the last 2 weeks my car has developed a faint ticking sound during light acceleration. The sound stops when I left off the gas and is not present at idle. If I accelerate normally the exhaust note and turbo drown out the noise. How faint the noise is, if the roads are wet the road noise will drown the clicking/ticking noise out above 20mph. The dealer stated they could not duplicate ( raining today) and that it is due to improper install of the waste gate actuator rod clip.
The sound associated with the actuator was only present when accelerating moderately to heavy and sounded like rocks in a can. Not sure if an improper install of the clip could occur as it is pretty straight forward. I did the install over a year ago and never heard what I am hearing now.
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I just recently bought a 96 XLT 4WD Aerostar. It's got about 158,000 miles on it. It's got a few problems I wanted to ask about.
1. When I'm on the highway, once I reach about 82 or 83mph the transmission seems to slip into neutral. Does fine around the city and every other speed on the highway but once I pass 82mph it slips and revs really high. Could it be the torque converter?
2. Clicking while turning sharp and reversing while turning. I figure it probably needs new cv joints?
3. The gas mileage seems terrible. I still have my Ford Econoline 250 and that seems to be getting better gas mileage. What might cause the mpg to be as bad as 12mpg on the highway?
4. The speedometer goes nuts after about 40mph. Is that an easy fix?
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Right this clicking noise is really annoying me now, every time AFTER i brake i hear this click, the faster i stop the louder the click is, also when I am in neutral and suddenly rev its clicks sometimes but rarely, I am thinking it could be a loose exhaust somewhere? Its definitely coming from under my foot area. When I brake cornering it clicks too. Checked my control arms and everything, that's not rattling at all? Need to get rid of this click sound!!
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I have a 2015 Nissan Sentra. After running over a few pot holes my car has been making a clicking noise when I brake. What it could be?
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My 1997 4.0 Rear Wheel Drive is making a clicking noise when it is put into gear or when it switches from drive to reverse and vice versa. Sound is coming from the back of van. Does not make noise all the time. Drove 50 miles last night with no problems and minimal clicking. Could it be U-Joints going bad? Or is this a different problem?
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When I gently apply the brakes at slower speeds there is a single "click" noise. This happens every time. I took it to the dealer. They said it was normal. I am just trying to find out if indeed it is. Do other people get this click when they apply the brakes.
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I have an 2002 Hyundai Auto.
My car has the clicking noise under the following situations:
1) rolling in neutral with/without brake applied
2) rolling/decelerating without gas pedal pressed (I guess the same as rolling in neutral) with/without brake applied
The noise is the most noticeable when going at around 20 to 30mph, and would be gone under very low speed <5-10 mph. The weird thing is when I press the gas pedal and the car is accelerating, the noise is gone too.
My mechanics said it is because the wheel cylinder which is noisy. But I don't quite understand why the noise is gone when the car is accelerating.
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In an attempt to bleed my drivers side caliper today I noticed clicking coming from the #2 relay switch under the dash. The clicking stopped once I pulled out the relay. I continued to bleed my caliper which I've been having issues doing so. It was kinda odd how I was able to bleed the caliper after pulling the relay. Is it possible that the [email protected] system could be causing issues with the pcm? 2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles .....
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Example, if I'm turning the wheel to the left with the left turn signal on there will be a LOUD click, click, click ect. sound from the column. The sound is louder than the turn signal relay and can be heard with the radio on.
Today is the third time I've brought it in to have fixed and now they tell me it is "normal". They came to the conclusion that it is "normal" because two other trucks on their lot make a noticeable clicking sound and one is just as loud as mine. However, My truck JUST STARTED making the noise a few months ago and was quiet when I originally bought it.
I know this is not a big problem ,but it is annoying and I want it fixed. Anyways, my Ford dealer had bailed out on me so how do I fix it myself?
Can you hear the column switch clicking ALOUD in your truck?
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I have a 99 escort zx2 with an A/T. I just recently redid the whole front end. Installed new struts, springs, mounts, ball joints, tie rod ends (inner and outer) wheel bearings and CV shafts. Got it aligned after all that work and now I have a vibration whenever I apply power, whether its upon acceleration or when I'm going up a hill. The vibration frequency increases with speed and feels more like a frame vibration than a steering vibration. Does not make any difference on turning or not. After I noticed the vibration I put my winter wheels on thinking maybe it was a misbalanced wheel but no change. And here is the kicker, if I jack the car up the vibration will go away for about 45 mins of driving time before it starts to fade back in. Checked all of my bolts for tightness and changed the CV shafts again. brought it to another shop who could not find the source. They double checked the alignment and its straight as can be. Could it possibly be a bad strut? I installed Monroe sensa-trac with all Monroe associated mounts and hardware.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-250 6.0L that's making a vibration noise when I come to a stoplight with my foot on the brake, just idling. I just recently replaced the front brake pads this past weekend. I looked under the hood and visually checked for any obvious things that could be making the noise and did not find any, I did notice my power steering pump is damp with fluid. Now this noise only occurs when my foot is on the brake, anytime my foot is off the brake, it goes away.
I checked brake fluid level and power steering pump fluid level, both are fine except power steering fluid looks like chocolate milk. I don't know if the power steering pump would be the cause of this, but I'm going to replace it because it's leaking and I'm guessing the fluid for the power steering is way overdue. I've only owned this truck since March of this year and it has 128,000 miles on it. Hopefully this video link to youtube works, the sound in the video is the same noise that I'm hearing from the truck. Where this noise is coming from.
Vibration noise powerstroke - YouTube....
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I'm noticing an interesting thing with my GTI...whenever I step on the gas and whenever I let go, I hear clicks coming from the light switch. I've only noticed it on low speeds, perhaps because the engine noise is low...
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Black smoke is bad I think, especially when I push on the gas pedal, and I hear a bad whine or something that sounds like a very loud power steering pump whining.
I also have zero on the boost gauge. The truck barely pulls itself back home and black smoke is dribbling out of the exhaust pipe.
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Truck had been running with a bit of a skip and shuddered after throttle was applied and then stopped (would drop to 400 RPM and shake real bad). Had some misfire codes so I decided to do some digging. Where to start looking for air leaks pre upper fuel bowl?
YouTube.....
Also, does this mean the air has toasted my injectors?
YouTube.....
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I have a 2009 Tiguan SE, and I am getting Ignition errors on VAGCOM regularly, but intermittent clicking noises coming from the steering column. When I clear the errors, they come back anyway.
Sounds like a relay or something, and I can actually FEEL the clicking when I hold onto the keyfob tightly. I'm sure some of you have run into this before. The clicking is quite random. Wondering if there's a simple fix for this, and what happens if you don't fix it?
I also have the noisy sunroof issue, which I find quite annoying.
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My wife was driving home tonight and the headlights went out. She was able to pull off the road to a parking lot. All the lights are working besides the headlights. Neither high or low beams are working. I can heard clicking noise in fuse box when switching the headlights on and off. I pull the plug off one of the headlights and stuck a new bulb in it. It still did not work.
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I have an 02 Passat with a passenger side window motor problem. The window works fine from the drivers side and will go up using the pass. side switch, but it will not go down. It makes a clicking noise each time I press the switch and the window sort of acts like it wants to move down. I took the door panel off and checked the switch and the wires going to the motor and every thing looked ok. I checked the switch with a multimeter and it appears to be ok. What else I can check?
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1999 Windstar has 220k on it. I had to tow it home for him the other day. He said it was acting like the ignition was failing, and then it finally died. We put it on the charger and it now reads 12.7V resting. (not that the battery was dead)
He has no power at all. No interior lights, no door chime, no radio, no windows, no headlights, not even a click when the key is turned.
It has a recent alternator, and that is not backfeeding. I was able to crawl under the front and jumper across to the trigger of the starter solenoid and it seems to crank fine. I checked the grounds for resistance with my ohmmeter and they seem tight and fine. I checked for voltage at the power distribution panel next to the battery and there are no blown fuses, plenty of current present.
What has failed? Before I start ripping the dash apart I figured I'd ask here. I'm a pretty much regular in the 80-86 and 87-96 forums, but don't know anything about the idiosyncrasy's of these minivans.
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