Ford Aerostar :: Drive For About 400 Ft With Handbrake Engaged - No 3rd Or OD
Oct 14, 2014
I accidentally drove my 3.0 1988 aerostar cargo van for about 400 ft with the handbrake engaged and I lost 3rd and 4th gears. I still have 1st 2nd and reverse. Is my tranny shot or is there any way to possibly try to salvage it? Band adjustment possibly make a difference? I am looking at the possibility of purchasing a used tranny. One is from a 1990 4.0 4wd LWB and one is from a 1994 explorer 4wd.
Can I make either of these work or will I run into too many issues? What other tranny options can I use and from which years/models of vehicles? What changes would I need to do to make them work? I understand the 4.0 awd has a better trans than the 3.0. I know the Ranger, Bronco, Explorer and Aerostar have the a4ld, but which ones will work on an 88? Can't afford a rebuild.
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The issue is I drove a few km's with the handbrake engaged in my moms 2nd gen matrix. I reasoned that it was showing me the exclamation mark and beeping to tell me the fuel was REALLY low, so I assumed it was going so hesitant to go to save gas...............
I drove a few km's slowly, and when I got to my street I stepped on the gas as a "hell yeah I made it", only to come out the car to see the rear brakes smoking all over the place.
Only about 20 minutes after I came home I realized what happened, (don't even ask what my reasoning for breaks smoking was this time) went and disengaged the handbrake, but now about 5 hours later I just saw my mom leaving in the car and there was a slight creaking sound coming from what seemed to be the rear.
Could the handbrake being engaged for another 20-30 minutes after the breaks getting so hot from all the friction potentially WELD the drums to the other part of the brakes? I hope I didn't mess up the wheels or the parts they are sitting on.
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Can't drive the truck. Went through the how to fix 4x4 and no go. How to kick it out of four wheel dive?
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I have a 2001 f150 crew cab 4x2 82k miles 4.6 with a 4r70w. Was pulling it over a curb and it popped now it will shift into reverse and load the motor like its pulling against a wall. In drive it will move some but still will lock up and stop moving. I assumed something in the rear had broken from the way it would roll a few feet and lock. Replaced the rear and still have same problem. Is there something I can replace to fix a stuck park or does the transmission need replaced or rebuilt?
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This must have been asked before but I couldn't find any thread about it. Have a 2006 F350 that makes a rattling sound when engaged in front wheel drive. Sounds a bit like a loose ball from a ball bearing (or a small stone) rolling around. What might be causing this?
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1999 windstar transmission. Daughter drives van,never had any problems and suddenly no drive or reverse.Put it in gear ,no rpm drop, same for reverse.I put it in park and it will not roll so I don't believe its a linkage issue. Its like it has no torque converter. Fluid is at the full mark,and has no burnt smell . Its been my experience that a trans. Usually starts slipping,or no up shift or makes some noises when its getting ready to puke. She stopped for a stop light, went to take off and it just rev-ed up like it was in neutral.
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I am a new driver and I made the following mistake twice.
Twice over the last month, after street parallel parking, engaging the foot parking brake, turning off and exiting the car, I noticed the spacing from the front and back car is a bit off so I went back inside the car to move the car slightly.
However, I forgot to disengage the parking brake first, so I put the car into R, and when the car did not move, I tapped on the accelerator. Only then did I remember to disengage the parking brake.
If I just tapped on the accelerator slightly, does it damage my car? I haven't noticed any problems yet, but I feel terrible about the screw ups.
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I have a 1997 ford aerostar van that i recently acquired through some family,when i got it it was running fine but has recently started having troubles.The Question i have is this i put my car in drive or reverse and push the gas pedal the car doesn't move.....we have tried putting transmission fluid into it and that worked temporarily. What it could be except just a bad transmission?
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Guess my cables have stretched. I just adjusted my handbrake cables and I noticed no matter how strong I apply the handbrake and it holds the car however on both driver's and passenger side the outside pad does not touch the rotor. I'm guessing that the inside pad moves and holds enough, however, i would like the brakes to operate properly. when is the handbrake applied should both pads apply pressure to the rotor?
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I buy 2013 Lexus LX570. I would like to know if i can watch a movie on the front screen while driving without handbrake. Can i download some manuals, wiring diagrams or service manual to know how to do this.
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Is there anyway to disable this in vag-com? I am getting annoyed, i have to move the car a few metres every night, and i cant move it without putting my seatbelt on, which is a good idea, but its silly. Can turn it off?
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What the problem is? still drive-able?
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In my 2001 Passat, the handle / compartment above the handbrake has a problem - it can be rotated (as to reveal the compartment), but when I want to put it back to horizontal position, I can't, it always leaves a distance of 4-5 cm. I took out the black compartment to see what's inside, and I found out that it gets stuck because when I push the handle down, it doesn't rotate the shaft that holds the teeth (which are in charge of the several "steps" in the handle position) down so that the handle will be able to be put to a full horizontal position. Also, I found a orange-yellow-semi transparent plastic thingy near the teeth of the compartment part, and it was loose, it appears to be broken. Looking for a detailed (exploded) view of the part assembly (like in a Haynes manual)?
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I having the ABS and handbrake light on at dashboard all the time and I had sent my car to scan error code and error code as follow:
1) C1200
2) C2308
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I've been trying to locate the source of the noise that is coming under the car. Specifically below the handbrake. Like something is lose, took the car to a shop to have it inspected, checked the exhaust, and there was nothing there, all clamps there and screws.
It only happens most of the time when the car is cold and it feels all the way from the hand brake to the stick shift. Sounds like a rattle like something is about to go off from the car but I cant imagine what could be. Couldn't replicate the noise at the shop, only when you are driving and the car is in inclined it rattles really bad until the car gets back to the normal position. Specifically in 1st gear .
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How strong is the handbrake? Can it lock up the rear tires while driving? Pulled pretty hard but no go
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After I release my handbrake and drive off, the vibration of driving causes my handbrake to slide out just enough to trigger the brake light to come on. The brake works fine I checked at the drums. It just slides out enough to trigger this light. As I drive I have to keep pushing it in, the light goes off but after a bit it goes on again and I keep pushing it in, evidently it keeps sliding out enough to keep triggering the light. I tried spraying the release and down the chute, sliding it in and out, with 3 and 1 oil and WD 40 but nothing seems to stop this annoying problem. I know there's nothing wrong with it but I can't get it to stop and I know it's just the vibration of driving that causes it to slip out just enough to trigger it.
Next month I have the NJ State inspection, and if they see the light, they're going to fail it when there's really nothing wrong with it.
1986 Toyota Hilux half ton 5 speed stick with the 22 R engine over 225K
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I bought a Toyota Tercel and the handbrake cables were seized so I changed them both, but they're still not locking the wheels... I've tried to adjust them with the nut beside the lever but it didn't work. I changed the brakes on both rear wheels.
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My Treg is in the shop at the moment to have some squeaks and rattles looked at - and I was expecting to get it back on Monday this week. However, was told on Tuesday by the garage that the engineers had discovered that the rear handbrake shoes had completely disintegrated and that they needed to replace them. Now
a) I don't make a habit of driving around with the handbrake on, and
b) my car has only done 6,000 miles
So what's going on? To cap it all, the parts are on back-order from Germany. Which means it will likely be two weeks before I get my car back. This is starting to get on my nerves. It feels like my Treg is in the garage more than out of it and I'm beginning to regret my purchase.
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I just bought a 2nd hand late 2008 B6 Passat 1.9 TDI last week. All was going well until a couple of things started happening. I have a full 1 year warranty with the garage who I bought it off and they are linked to VW as well which works but what I need to know is can i get the recall work done on this and what is what withe faults below:
1st - Handbrake fault warning on the dash (only comes on in really bad wet weather?)
2nd - Owl Hoot when changing gear
3rd - car shake when idle
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A day before 3 yr service and MOT test on 7 seat 2011 Santa Fe, a noise from the rear offside wheel. Advised the garage to check and they discover the handbrake shoes were detaching from their mountings, not wearing out but detaching. This has apparently happened before causing someone's wheel to lock up and the vehicle recovered to the garage.
Strange that the same garage has seen it before so it must be happening elsewhere.
Cross pond Translations....
handbrake=parking brake
MOT = annual government safety test
Shoes = pads / linings
Rear offside = left right rear
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