What's inside that electric clutch? Mine will not lock up. I checked the sensors, the solenoid resistance - all good. Hotwired the thing to bypass the control module - no avail. It flashes a code 9 which is a mechanical problem but I was told that the clutch is so simple there is nothing that can be broken. Does it have some kinda lining that can be worn?
View 14 Replies4wd warning light flashes 3 times intermittently. Which error this means.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 250 SD. Supercab. Took out the bench and replaced with captains or buckets, whatever you want to call them. Perfect fit. The new seats have their own seat belts built in to them. The old ones, were mounted to the floor and roof. Now the air bag light blinks for a fairly long time, then stays on! What? OK, So, what do I NOT know about this project? I did have to make the wires longer in order to reconnect the plugs. Not a problem, I am an electrician. Trouble shooting is ok, when you know where to start.
View 10 RepliesI have a few issues with my 05 f150 that I need to know how to fix them
-the odometer display flashes on and off, the warmer it is outside the less it stays on
-heater blower doesn't work when the switch is on number one position, works fine on other positions
-power mirrors don't work neither side
The problem started with me leaving the parking lights on, battery was discharged overnight; jump started it, drove it around to charge the battery, ran fine for two days. Now when I switch Ignition Switch to start I hear a sort of mechanical "clack" and I lose all electrical power, nothing, nada. Removed and took the battery to check it and charge it, tested good and is now fully charged.
Reinstalled battery, same symptom, a "clack" when I try to start it, then dead, all electrical power disappears unless I rock the steering wheel up and down, rock the shifter through the gears, etc. It's been raining in Florida daily, I wonder if water is to blame. Start Lock Relay?? Ignition Switch??
I recently came home to a shattered back window on the lift gate. We were gone on vacation for a week and I didn't notice it for a couple days after we were back. The van was backed up to my second garage door. Not really sure how it happened. Nothing was taken from the van and I live in a pretty decent neighborhood, so I don't think it was vandals. Only thing I can contribute it too is the heat (it had gotten pretty hot in WI while we were gone).
So I'm in the process of replacing it. After a pretty good search I was able to obtain a used window from a junk yard. The glass is in good shape but it is missing 3 of the 'studs' that are imbedded in the rubber molding. I have the 3M Window Weld butyl 'tape' (3/8") to seal/adhere it to the fiberglass. Will the remaining studs plus the tape be enough to permanently keep the window in place?
If not, I can salvage the studs from the old molding but then I have to figure out how to glue it to the new window. I'm not sure what I can use to do this. I've considered JB Weld, Epoxy, super glue or something like rubber cement. It looks like the old studs were ripped straight out leaving kind of a void in the hard rubber molding. The bottom of the void is I believe rubber (not glass).
I was wondering how do i replace the outer tie rod on a 95 ford aerostar awd 4.0L. I have enough for the parts but not extra tools. Need a tutorial on how to do it?
View 6 RepliesMy 1988 Mustang 5.0 GT has stalled out once last year and again recently. Same situation. I drove it for 300 miles with stops about every hour and a half. Pushed to to 90 MPH at times. Ran fine other times on the road for more than two hours. But all of a sudden the engine dies. Electrical all works but won't turn over. If I sit in it for about 10 minutes, it will start and run for the next 5 to 10 minutes than a cough or two and pull over. I have had new plugs put in and also replaced the whole distributor. Ford mechanics have stared at it and scratched their heads and say it is running fine when they hand it back to me.
View 2 RepliesI seem to remember a old post but I can't find it! Someone replaced the fuel pump by cutting a hole through the floor.
View 14 RepliesWe've got a '96 aerostar (4x4). The bushing and upper control arm seem to need replacement but the parts seem to be obsolete. Any source for these (other than salvage yards)?
View 14 RepliesAny hints on a easy way to change these.
After I have the wheel off do I need to disconnect the upper ball joint to remove these. It looks like I can just remove the two nuts on each side and use a jack under the rotor to support the weight. It looks like it might shift back and forth enough to get them out/in.
Will this work?
cant drive 96aero cause cant find a proportioning combo valve.
View 5 RepliesMy `88 Aerostar needs a replacement steering column. I believe everything can be swapped over therefore color of steering wheel does not matter. Cruise control buttons and tilt are a must. I would like to find one that is tight(er) and not sloppy floppy like mine is slowly becoming (143k miles).
View 1 RepliesI'd like to know if a 2nd row captains seat can be use as a replacement for the 1st row driver's. I'm referring to the seat section itself, not the entire frame. I found some excellent condition seats but they are from the 2nd row. My Aero is a '95 and I don't know(yet) which year van the seats came out of.
View 11 RepliesMine is all busted up. All I can find are covers for shorties.
View 6 Repliesi have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
View 6 RepliesProud owner here of a '96 3.0L RWD Aerostar Utility Van with about 138k miles, and leaking power steering fluid. At this point I'm replacing fluid from zero every time I have to drive it which is about once a week. I've located the leak and it seems to be coming from the pump/reservoir around the pressure hose. The hose is loose as in i can move it around a bit, but from what I've read, this is normal and the hose is supposed to be like that. I figure that at this mileage, with so much air going through the pump, all the crazy squealing and whining it does even when full, at this point it probably makes sense to replace the whole pump while I'm in there, as opposed to just doing the reservoir. Anyway, I'm planning to do this in a couple of weeks, and have some questions...
1) The pump - I've read on this forum that the best way to go on brand of the pump is Motorcraft.
2) Hoses - I'd like to replace the hoses coming out of the pump while I have this thing all taken apart, but I'm not exactly sure what parts to get. I know one is the pressure and one is the return, but there are variations of each based on the research I've done. The parts on the Napa site have different descriptions like "with switch port", "without switch port" "56in hose" "26in hose", and so on. Which ones I need, specifically the ones connecting directly to the pump? I havent been able to find anything in my research online, in Haynes, or Chiltons manuals.
3) Washers - Whether or not I replace the hoses, should I replace the washers at the connection point? Chilton's seems to recommend replacing them. Will they come with the new pump?
My local auto parts shop has the pulley remover/installer for me to rent so I've already got that squared away. I'm pretty sure I've covered all of my bases otherwise.
Did some searching but didn't find anything on how to replace the driver's side front window glass. Someone decided they liked my GPS unit more than I did while I was at work. Smashed out my driver's side window and took it. Now to replace that window. I did manage to find a replacement window.
Pulled off the door panel and now I'm trying to install the glass. Anything I try though, I can't seem to get the glass back into the tracks. Does anything inside the door need to be removed before I can install the glass back into the tracks? Such as the window motor/regulator assembly? On the left side of the drivers door towards the bottom, there is also another small alignment track. Does this need to be removed as well?
Today i go out and crank my truck and it fires right up. I notice the overdrive light on the shifter is flashing. It did that a few days ago but stopped within a minute or so. This time i noticed the check engine soon light was lit as well. I checked my scan gauge and it said three codes stored. The first one i looked at was P0705. The truck was running fine the whole time. I turned it off and tried to crank it again.
This time it just turned over and over but would not crank. I cleared the codes before checking the other two codes. I wish i would not have done that but I wasn't thinking straight. I tried several more times to crank but it never fired. One time it tried to but never fully did. I gave up and switched cars. I am going to try again when i get back home. What causing this?
I'm getting an error code 2-7 (flashes two times, pauses, then flashes seven times) when my truck starts up. It does this cycle twice then stays on permanently. It has only started doing this since last night when I replaced my factory tape deck with a factory Cd player from a 2002 F-150.
View 14 RepliesNoticed one of my cab lights was out. Cant imagine replacing it is too bad. But, wheres a good place to find replacement? Probably get 5 for when the rest go.
View 6 Replies