Ford Aerostar :: Clacking When Try To Start / All Electrical Power Lost
Aug 27, 2013
The problem started with me leaving the parking lights on, battery was discharged overnight; jump started it, drove it around to charge the battery, ran fine for two days. Now when I switch Ignition Switch to start I hear a sort of mechanical "clack" and I lose all electrical power, nothing, nada. Removed and took the battery to check it and charge it, tested good and is now fully charged.
Reinstalled battery, same symptom, a "clack" when I try to start it, then dead, all electrical power disappears unless I rock the steering wheel up and down, rock the shifter through the gears, etc. It's been raining in Florida daily, I wonder if water is to blame. Start Lock Relay?? Ignition Switch??
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My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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Going up a hill, my engine started clacking and I lost acceleration power. (yes, I was in overdrive - which I now know I shouldn't have been). I immediately pulled off the road and into a gas station. Upon stopping, my oil pressure gague dropped to zero and my engine temp maxxed out. The temp was fine until I stopped. I let the engine cool off for an hour.
After listening to it for a few seconds, I was told that I had a problem they couldn't fix. We put a compression fix oil additive in it to see if that would work. It did raise the oil pressure when cold and when running with the RPMs up, but after running for a few minutes, the pressure would drop to zero on idle. At that point, they suggested that I shouldn't drive it anymore. I then rented a box truck and an auto trailer and trailed my truck the rest of the way.
I'm now in Fort Collins, Colorado and have a dilemma. I had a local mechanic look at the truck and he also agrees that I have a failed/failing rod bearing. (back of the engine near the firewall)
The question is to repair or abandon the vehicle. I'm not a mechanic and can't do the repair myself. It has 158K miles and has been meticulously maintained. Unless I also damaged something else, the rest of the truck is in good shape. Is rebuilding the engine possible or even worth it?
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2002 f250 v10 4x4. Truck will loose all power...
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I have a 2003 F350 Super Duty 6.0L Crew Cab Lariat 4x4 signal rear wheels Ford tow package. After market options Bully dog power put and outlook controller.
Next the problems When they started and order pleas stay with me.
I purchased a goose neck horse trailer and after hooking it up, plugin in the tight and break round plug I found that the trailer lights did not work. I inspected the plug on my truck I found that the wires were cut next to the plug so I purchased a after market plug and swapped the two out and the lights worked. Excepted the right turn signal did not work.
I thought I was good and then the problems started during the six hour trip home at night my turn lights and break lights ceased to work on my truck and trailer the running lights and head lights work on both. After I returned home I looked for shorts and bad fuses I never found any.
After that I started to accumulate problems.
The Outlook controller would occasionally loose signal and turn off and on and the door ajar is on all the time. After that the I had the oil filter fail and pieces of it went through the IPR screen causing the IPR to fail I know its unrelated but it is. After having a no start condition and replacing the IPR all my gauges would go peg to peg when trying to start. I put a long hard charge on the batteries and got them to a full charge of 12.6CV and had no problem starting any more. I did find at the time I hooked up the charger is that one of the batteries blew off one of the cell covers.
But what happened next.
The truck lost full electrical systems as in the 4x4 switch quit working, the power locks quit working, door chimes quit, the transmission would not shift into overdrive and the tow light flash and now the Outlook Controller flashes on and off so bad I can hardly get the codes off it. The auto headlight quit.
Most of the things I could reset by un plugging fuses and relays to get them to work.
OK the now, I changed the batteries today with new ones and found out the old ones were only at 75% and that fixed some of the problems. The problems I still have is the transmission, turn signals, break lights and Outlook flashing on and off. By the way the Outlook is plugged in the systems plug under the dash.
These are my codes
P0360 ignition coil j primary (I do not know what this is or where I can find it.)
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient (Is this the EGR cooler I did a EGR Delete by puting freeze plugs in both ends)
P0603 Powertrain Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error ( I have no clue about this, this started when I lost the IPR durring all that cranking.)
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I bought a great 76' SuperCab with a 390 4 barrel Wednesday (the 30th) and while driving around the neighborhood this evening the truck just lost all power and came to a stop. No lights, no engine, nothing and I cruised to an easy stop (fortunately at the end of my own block). I thought I smelled a bit of electrical burn for a moment after I came to a stop but could not track it down before the smell disappeared.
Some early symptoms - on drive home from purchase, the turn signal light function was in and out. The starter was also turning slowly and sounded tired/weak. The ignition switch was a bit loose and previous owner said you had to make sure the key was not all the way to the right or accessories would not work.
Some early checks/fixes- replaced battery and battery cables and checked grounds. Starter began turning stronger and turn signal lights were back. Thought I had it going well.
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'03 E250 connector C3136 located by the left lower B Pillar---have lost power to the Brown wire which seems to be designated as Circuit 124.
Which fuse controls that circuit? I have a factory EVTM but I can't find what fuse to check. And here I though I knew something?!
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I have a 97 Ranger, v6 4.0L, 2wd, 5spd. It has been my daily driver since 1999. I was driving to work today and when I pulled into the parking spot, I turned the truck off, and I thought it was odd that the locks didn't pop up when I shut the truck off.
I then realized that I had completely lost all electrical power. Tried to turn the truck on and nothing. No click. No dome light, no horn, no nothing.
My battery reads 12.5 volts and the connections are all clean on the battery. I checked all the fuses and they are all good. What else should I check? This may be the first time this truck has ever stranded me before.
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here its is i have a 1986 ford f350 6.9 aftermarket turbo set up i was driving it then i went over rail road tracks lost all power to fuse box no headlights no interior lights no ignition power batteries are good so now when i turn key nothing lights up it just killed my whole truck....
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My 2003 Camry XLE 4-cyl has a serious intermittent problem.
Occasionally, when I insert the key into the ignition switch and turn to ON position, the whole car has no electrical power - including radio, fan, windows, and the whole dashboard just went black ! Starter won't turn. At this point if I just tap slightly on the brake pedal once, electrical power would instantly come back and everything works normal again (car starts, radio, fan working again). This problem would continue to persist randomly. I found that every time when this happens, if I clean the positive battery post/clamp, the problem goes away for 1-2 months then it come back again. I have been repeating this routine for over a year until recently I replaced the battery and the new positive clamp.
The problem has not come back until now (about 9 months since battery change). This time, the problem became a real safety issue. It happened while driving ! Engine just died, everything blackout inside the car. I had to put it in neutral and let it cruise, tapped on the brake pedal slightly to get electrical power back, then started the car and go again.
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Yesterday I ran my batteries down and had to have my 2003 F350 jump started. The truck started find, and the battery is retaining its charge, but after the jump i lost my power windows, instrument panel (speedometer, gauges, odometer), dome lights, radio, and power mirrors. I have checked all the blade fuses and they are all fine. I have noticed in the past that occasionally it takes a few seconds for these things to come on line after I start up, but this was very rare and the functions always came on line shortly. What the problem could be?
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06 Camry SE I4
I had to replace my catalytic converter because of the code I was getting. It wasn't difficult to do, but took me a while because I had to transfer the thread rods to the new CAT. Once the new CAT was installed, I went to test her out, but noticed that the car all of a sudden, has no electrical power. Nothing at all. I checked all fuses and nothing is blown. The only electrical I messed with on the car was the O2 sensor.
Car has a brand new battery from yesterday. The only thing I didn't do is install a support bracket on one side, because it was missing a bolt and one thread rod was stuck in the old CAT, i couldn't remove it.
A friend suggested that the missing bracket may be causing a ground issue. Is this true?
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This evening I drove our Subaru Legacy Wagon (1999) about 3 miles or so to the gym. When I pulled into the lot, I noticed my radio (tuned to NPR, no less) had gone off. Curious! A few seconds later, dashboard lights come on (ABS, maybe others). After that, engine goes quiet, car is dead -- turning the key does nothing at all, and the car is completely without power. Only the dome light works, and barely. I get a jump, and eventually the car starts back up --- but it took a while, and several tries, before I could get the engine going.
On the way home, I kept a careful eye on the RPMs -- when I was close, I noticed the ABS light pop back on, and the RPM needle go down to zero. I tried my best to keep the RPMs up by staying in first, and managed to park. Of course, the car was unresponsive when I immediately tried to restart it. Some quick internet searches suggest alternator, bad connections to the battery, and some other ideas. We've never had this problem before. The twist is that we're literally on the brink of selling this car -- we've got one more than we need. Thus, we'd be pretty bummed if we had to put much, if any, cash into the car just so we can get rid of it days later.
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I have intermittent power problems with the drivers side rear door. The lock, window and even the light under the door stop working. I know that it is a connection problem but wanted locating where connectors are. If I jiggle the wires going through the door it seems to sometimes connect and work. It seems that the connection problem is not in the door itself but somewhere in the car. Is there any connectors in the pillar or somewhere else and what is the best way to get it apart to work on the connections.
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I have a 2001 Chrysler (Mitsubishi) Sebring Lxi Coupe with the 3.0-liter V6 engine and (in)famous Chrysler A-604 4-speed automatic transmission. Mileage is approx. 115,000. Several days ago, I was on the highway doing 60 mph when the car suddenly, and without making any noise, lost power, as if the engine had quit. When I gave it more gas, the rpm on the tach shot up quickly to 3500, but the car was still losing speed. The Check Engine Light never comes on. Long story short, I pulled over to the side of the road and got the car flat-bedded home. The engine starts and run normally, but the car will not move in any forward gears (drive, first or second) nor in reverse.
The OBD II module is not throwing any codes that are related to a transmission problem. The transmission fluid is not discolored and does not smell or look "burnt". The fluid level is at the full mark on the dip stick. Up to this point, the transmission has performed and shifted flawlessly. I have serviced the transmission regularly every 30,000 miles since buying the car with 60,000 miles on it. I have been reading that this transmission was one of the first to be designed with electronically activated shifting, and has been installed in many models of Chrysler cars, vans, and pickups starting in 1989. Any way to check whether this may be an electrical/electronic problem first before getting a tow to a transmission shop for diagnosis of an internal mechanical failure requiring overhaul or a new trans?
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So i JUST got my timing belt replaced on my 2001 B5 Passat 4motion, took it in and got it done. Now when the tech was working on it he said that the car was slow cranking one day, and I have intermittantly seen the same thing before, but i have known for a while that I need a new battery, its old, and randomly have little power, but it has always worked once the car is started.
As soon as i picked the car up yesterday I got the "alternator workshop warning" and quickly the car started to act funny as systems lost enough power to not function correctly (abs light, brake light, etc). Now is there ANYTHING else this could be beside the alternator? fuses, wires, other faults, etc, etc.
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Driving down the road, vehicle lost all electrical power and died. There doesn't appear to be any juice at all to start it. The battery is fine (along with the terminals), the starter is okay too (although I don't see why that would affect total electrical flow). There were not any alarms on the vehicle. Is it the fuse box (negative terminal) or possibly the alternator? The alternator had been charging, and the battery showed that it had juice left in it. What would cause the vehicle to just die like that, in the middle of driving it? It's an LS type blazer with a 4.3 L engine.
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I have 2005 f350 with 365000 km on it I have it for one year and don't have a problem till last week. I was pulling van on dolly uphill and sadden lost pover, so I stopped and check oil leaks ,transmission .... But everything looks ok in couple minutes start engine and go home (10 km). Change fuel filters trans filter, looked good for 50km and star losing power again and doesn't want start. So I skan and its show me next numbers.
Key on engine off
Ipr-15%
Icp-0psi
Icp-.26v
Ficm main power-47.8
Ficm logistics power-14.5
Ficm sync is good
Engine crank
Ipr-85%
Ficm main power-48.0
Ficm logistics-12.5
Icp- 625psi
Icp-.77v-1v
So what I have to do?
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This is a new truck to me 03 Excursion, the owner has done a lot, gave me receipts for a lot of work and cosmetically it just seems taken care of. About a year ago hpop, ficm, oem egr and 3 injectors. He wasn't happy with that mechanic and still having problems so went to a different (supposedly better) shop. This time turbo cleaned, all 8 injectors and passenger head was redone and put back on with oem bolts. Apparently it was found that a nut was dropped down valve cover by the first shop! Somewhere along the way the ICP and GP module has been replaced.
I've only driven it a couple times and seems great until last night. It was loosing power and in about 10 seconds died and wouldn't start back up. Pops but doesn't stay running. WIF dash light on and no CEL codes. Not sure where to start/what to do. I've paid for most of it and was planning to pay the rest and transfer title but I'm not comfortable doing that till I'm confident it's good to go.
I drained the separator and seemed to gush out like it should and don't think I saw water. I'm planning to take the sensor off the filter there, inspect and clean it but I don't imagine that's the problem. I do see oil coming on the back of the engine and front of tranny on the drivers side... maybe ICP is all oily and failed? I don't know much about these, just been trying to read. What should I do as some first steps? Do I need some sort of scanner? It seems like it's starving for fuel. It was about 1/4 of fuel when I bought it and filled it up the night I took it home and have put about 80 miles on it since. Is it possible it's got bad fuel or water?
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I have a 2000 f350. Lost power whole driving and won't start back up. I have checked all my fuses and relays several times. Have no power to the fuel pump. Tried running a hot wire straight to the pump and still nothing.checked my emergency cur off switch and there is no power there. Also my WTS light isn't coming on now. Tried checking the heater bowl and no power there.
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All of a sudden all the power to the van just quits when I try to start it. I put a load test on the battery and it seems fine. I've still got power at the battery terminals when everything is dead - no dome light or anything else.
We went out for lunch and had to get a jump to get back home. The battery was turning the engine just fine before this sudden event. What would kill all the power to everything every time I try to start it? After some time goes by, the dome lights and chime come back but I can no longer turn the engine over to start it up.
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