Ford Aerostar :: Adding Second Trans Cooler In Series
Aug 28, 2015
About a month ago my van did the thing where it dumped four quarts of trans oil onto the exhaust creating an awesome smoke screen. I would like to avoid this happening again. I plan on adding a second trans cooler in series with the factory one. If the trans fluid goes through the radiator or trans cooler first?
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I live out in the sticks, and leaked out a lot of tranny fluid. the fill plug in the pan is rusted bad. can I add fluid using the cooler line and a pump? so i can drive it to the repair shop.
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My 97 AWD Aerostar bumps in and out of gear on very hot days. I've had the transmission fluid and filter changed. That repair worked, but it still shifts hard when very hot. I tow a boat. I always push the shifter button in to deactivate the OD when towing. I talked to friends who recommended an auxiliary transmission cooler. I looked on the van where one might be installed. I have a factory transmission cooler (oem factory installed).
The cooler is in front of the radiator. I don't see any room to add an additional cooler. The van has 145,000 miles. The van runs and shifts fine most of the time. The problem has happened only on very hot days. What I can do to prevent transmission problems. I've read that the AWD 1997s use a five speed transmission. 1997 was the first and last year the five speed automatic was installed in the AWD Aerostar.
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So I rebuilt my transmission earlier this year and its been working great, but I've yet to install a better cooler on it. I do quite a bit of towing with it, most of which is my boat. I've searched a lot on the forum here but cant decide on how to set up a better trans cooler.
I want a cooler that's going to handle cooling my trans on steep hills and such, but I don't want to completely cover my a/c condenser (I really like cold a/c ).
I've considered adding a couple of the frame mount coolers in-line and keep the factory cooler, I'm just not sure how well it would work.
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I am adding an auxiliary trans fluid cooler to my C-6 in my F-250. Should the fluid route thru the aux cooler first then the stock rad cooler, or thru radiator cooler to aux cooler? Which stock hard line is fluid FROM the C-6 (HOT), and which is the return line (cold)?
Vehicle is 78 F-250 4x4 crewcab, 400/C-6
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While fixing some trans leaks on my 6.8. I was tightening a clamp on the center cooler and the lines must have rotted. It snapped off. I was having problems with both attachment points. So guess it's just time. Problem is I cant find a good part number to order one. I can't find it on Rock auto. Here is a picture if it. It's between the front and main radiator.
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This line is rusted out on my V10 and leaking fluid.
How hard/expensive is this to fix?
I'm in the middle of doing my exhaust manifolds right now, so I'm hoping it's a simple bolt-on fix.
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I have a 2001 E350 van with the 4R100 Transmission. It had a severe and sudden leak develop in the trans cooler. The driver noted trouble getting the vehicle into gear, into reverse, but ultimately drove it about 25 miles until it stopped unable to go up a hill. Once stopped, the leaking fluid was obvious from smoke & fluid over the back of the vehicle.
It was towed to a local shop (not a transmission shop). They put 9 quarts of fluid in and started the engine hoping to see the transmission functional but only leaking from the cooler. Instead they found it not operational and no fluid coming from the leak. They assume the pump is ruined to the point of not pumping fluid at all.
Is it likely that the front pump is the only damage? Can I pull the unit swap the pump & put it back in service? What else (if more damage is likely) would a transmission repair shop find? What about a used transmission?
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I have Russell fittings and hose coming to hook up my new 6.0 cooler into my 5.4 powered truck. Have a question on the fittings on the bottom of the radiator for the cooler lines, first what is the 3/8" line called? Is it a double flare or what? And second question the female end that's into the plastic tank with the hex head does that unscrew or is it made into the tank? Trying to figure this out so I can overnight two adapters so I can get rid of the fugly hard line completely and use Russell braided line throughout my install
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I pull a 23 ft travel trailer with my 99 f150 4.6l and so I decided I needed a trans cooler just to be safe towing in the dead of summer. I got a few quotes for right under 300. I couldn't justify the labor cost considering the cooler was under 100. So I made up my mind and decided to do it myself. I watched a bunch of videos for other makes and models but couldn't find nothing on my particular model year truck. I finished it today and I realized that my transmission fluid fluid is very dark. I have never serviced the transmission ever not even a drain and refill. I am going on my trip in about 7 days, and was wondering if I should even mess with anything to do with the transmission fluid. I put about a half quart of new fluid to top it off after the install of the transcooler but now I am worried that my transmission may not be in the best shape. Truck shifts fine as far as I concerned and acceleration is ok, so I am hesitant to do anything to it.
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I decided to install a trans cooler since I was servicing the trans and got the pan dropped anyway. But when I cracked open the trans cooler connector(which is totally unnecessary and should be avoided completed), I noticed that I broke the trans cooler connector fitting to the radiator and now the coolant leaks badly from around the fitting. What are my options other than replacing the radiator? Would some liquid metal treatment do the magic? Or is there a way to remove and replace the fitting(I am not sure this would be possible since it looked like the fitting was welded to the radiator)?
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So changing the oil in my truck the other day, I noticed the exhaust clamp at the union between my down pipe and first section of my exhaust has been rubbing the trans cooler line and there's a Nick in the granny pan. Lookin at the rubber grommet on the hanger, its stretched tight and looks like the exhaust has shifted over. What could have done this or possible fixes?right by now it's got a gob of high temp silicone acting as a stand off. Don't wanna put the new line in until I have the situation remedied.
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I used to own a fleet of school buses and I had remote trans filter on all of them. I'd change the filter about every 10K and felt like it really extended my trans life on Allisons. I wanted to put on my SD, so, I had a spare filter block with a 20psi bypass valve, and I used it. Worked out real well mounted to the radiator support, up front--easy access. uses a NAPA 1268 filter. In the picture it looks like the hoses are real close to the AC condenser, but in real life, the are three inches from it.
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I have read that the torqshift 5 speed in my 08 f350 he a thermostat in it that opens around 165-170. Is this thermostat to limit/stop the flow to the trans cooler? Does the trans fluid still move freely in the trans (pan, torque converter, valve body, ect), or does the thermostat restrict fluid movement inside the trans?
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How to drain the tranny fluid from the torque converter , I am dropping the pan and installing new filter and fluid, I want to get as much of old fluid out as i can It has a 3.0 engine with overdrive...
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My friend has a 97 Aerostar swb panel van. It's a 3.o with an automatic, with the code of death P1744. For the price of a rebuild, he would rather put a manual trans in it. What trans will fit, and what needs to be done as far as electronics goes?
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I'm not real sure what just happened this morning but my '95 Areostar stopped moving. While in gear there is a loud noise from trans area and the axles are no longer connected to the transmission. I think the trouble is in the electronic AWD portion. I thought at first the driveshaft fell off it was that loud. Where do I start tearing into it?
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I've got an oddball '88 SWB with the M5OD transmission. Since I've had it (about a year now), its always required a lot of gas to get it rolling without it stalling after sitting overnight or during the day at work, especially putting it in reverse for the first time. The shifts have always been a little choppy/jerky/grabby/whatever you want to call it, too. Mostly going into first from a stop, but you can feel it other gears too, especially if you're not flooring it.
Anyway, it seems to have gotten worse and I'm getting to the point where I'm looking at a cause. One thought I had was oil contamination on the clutch discs, I know this will make a clutch feel "grabby". There is some sludge accumulation between the trans and engine, and it appears I may have a very slow leak there.
I have to change the trans fluid this weekend and am wondering if there's anything I should inspect while I'm at it -- I don't know a whole lot about the clutch system on this van and there's next to no information on it. Frankly, I don't even know if its hydraulic or cable.
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Thought I would try and fill up the front. Diff well not as easy as the rear diff. They make a special hose or some thing. To put in the bottle so u can get some Gear oil in ?
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SFS less than 2K miles, noticed coolant on garage floor, chked coolant bottle nearly MT. Dropped engine air flow control panel. Found fresh coolant and stains running dwn both metal tubes leading to trans cooler. This is the 3rd Hyundai vehicle in 15 yrs, first negative experience, off to the dealer.
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I'm looking to remove my stock seats and ad bucketts to my 2001 Ranger XLT. I want to use the center connsole from an explorer. Any installation tips?
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