Ford Aerostar :: A/C Blowing Through Defrost Only - Where Are Vacuum Hoses
Mar 4, 2011
My 2005 Freestar (not the Freestyle) a/c is working properly except that it is only blowing through the defrost. I've read other posts about it being a leaking vacuum system on other ford vehicles that cause this problem.
1) I'd like to confirm that this Freestar a/c works on a vacuum system to open the a/c duct doors.
2) If it is, where are the vacuum hoses located? I'd like to check them to see if they are connected or if they have a hole.
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Ok, I know I have a vaccum leak. I have manual hubs now and those lines are capped. The AC is blowing through the deforst and the pump is running non stop. I have replaced the vac pump a couple of years ago and it worked fine then. any other places to look?
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Haven't been on here for a while. My f250 AC vacuum pump is out. This means the AC being reverted to blowing out the defrost. I have found the defrost/vent vacuum solenoid and zip-tied it open for a vents-only experience. I just realized, without the vacuum pump, there is really no way of determining if it is on recirculate or fresh air. I wish for the recirculate so I don't get someone else's or my own exhaust in the cab. Does the system stay on recirculate without vacuum power? if not what actuator must I zip-tie next?
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Looking for a pic of where the 2 vacuum lines go off the IMCR on a 2002 ranger 2.3. Changed engines now not sure where these hoses go.
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On my 92 Aero 4.0L with A/C, I need to replace the radiator but I am not sure how to move the A/C hoses out of the way to extract the shroud and the radiator.
I have viewed a video where a guy said to remove the serpentine belt and then unbolt the A/C compressor and move the compressor and hoses out of the way. Hope this means that I don't have to discharge or disconnect AC hoses. Not good for me.....
Well, the video instruction seems simple enough......but there doesn't appear to be enough "play" in the AC hoses to move them far enough to extract the radiator, and not being an AC guy (and the potential danger of releasing freon), I am at a loss.
How to move the AC hoses out of the way (without disconnecting the hoses or discharging the system) ....
Not to mention it would be great to find out what the torque specification is for tightening the AC compressor bolts for proper reassembly. And being the backyard mechanic I am, any drawings, details or diagrams that you can provide would be very useful.
BTW, I have looked in the forum for radiator removal information and none of the threads I read addressed moving the AC hoses (which of course run right over the top of the dang radiator).
If I get past these "hoses" I will also take advantage of the radiator removal to replace the fan and fan clutch and thermostat while I am there, but first things first, if you know what I mean.
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I'm going to finally go through all the old rubber cloth shielded vacuum hoses and going to replace them with Samco silicone but not sure if I should use 3 or 4mm hose?
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I'm feeling a bit embarrassed posting my delima, but I have a minor coolant leak which seams to be coming from where the heater hoses connect to the water pump and as well to the thermostat nuckle thingy. I have replaced all of the hose fittings with SS band clamps.
A couple of weeks ago I replaced the water pump, thermostat, alternator, rad hoses, belts, coolant sensor, PS tension pulley. The water pump is now tight and sealed. Since then the temperature gauge has been continually fluctuating from Normal to near Cold.
I was wondering if I should have placed some type of sealant compound where the heater hoses connect to the water pump and also to the thermostat nuckle thingy.
Initially, I thought it may be residual trapped air in the coolant system. But after a week, it became apparent that the heater hoses were leaking at the engine, and at the water pump, connections.
What puzzles and torments me is why is the temperature gauge fluctuating so widely up and down? This is totally weird.
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so i've had my 337 for a couple months now and when i first got it i found 2 broken vacuum hoses that were causing misfires. once i got those replaced my CEL went off and seemed to be running fine other than from time to time when i started it up my idle would be around 1.2k rpms and then after a couple miles itd settle down to 750-800 rpms but it wasn't rock solid, so obviously there is still something wrong.
on my drive home tonight from work i was in the mood for some spirited driving but when i'd hit the gas i could feel some hesitation through the powerband at wide open throttle. when i got home i turned it off, and started it back up to see if it was idling funny and when it ignited the rpms jumped to almost 2k and immediately fell back down to 1.2k.
My thoughts are its either a vacuum leak again, bad/dirty maf, dirty throttle body, or a boost leak.
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I just recently repaired issues with my 6.0 and now new issues has begun. The turbo keeps blowing the pipes out of the rubber hoses. Not sure what is happening or why so a little insight would be useful.
Oh yeah out of all the work completed in my previous post..don't bother replacing the solenoid section of the injectors. I replaced two the bad ones, rebuilt the other 6 with new everything including a cleaning and now I am getting codes for 3 that are going bad. Oh well I tried right...
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I know all about vacuum leaks and such causing this problem, and I tend to think that is my problem. But isn't the temp change dial also vacuum controlled (in my case of an 06 f250 6.0) by that valve near the oil fill tube on the passenger side? I ask because, while I am stuck on defrost i can change the temp of the air that comes out still, telling me there is enough vacuum in the system to at least control that.
I also know everyone talks about checking the ESOF system for cracked lines/leaks, but this shouldn't come in to play unless I have 4WD selected or if the EFOF solenoid is bad, right? I just got done tearing the top end of this engine apart, twice, for oil temp problems and am about done working on this POS!!!
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Ok, I have capped off the vacuum lines to the front hubs and replaced the vacuum solenoid on the passenger inner fender. Still stuck on defrost. I know there are several options from this point what would be the next step after what I have just recently done. Going away on a ski trip and would like to have it working properly before I go.
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This has been on going for the past year. The blend works fine. Fan speed works correctly. The selection for ac, max ac, etc., will only allow air through defrost vents. Vacuum leak?
1998 4.6 auto super cab
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I have a 2004 Ford Escape 3.0 V6 FWD, and the air conditioning has been blowing only to defrost for a few weeks now. After many searches online, most sources seem to agree it is a vacuum leak, as the selector switch is vacuum driven if you want anything except defrost. I popped the hood and within one minute I found one open vacuum line that looks like it has been worn in two.
The line in question goes from the vacuum canister towards the passenger side of the firewall, then goes to a T connector, then a line (the one that is broken) continues towards the heater core lines to where the break in the line is. I found a picture online of what it should look like, but I am having trouble accessing the line that goes through the firewall and behind the glove compartment. I am pretty sure this vacuum line continues through the firewall between the two heater lines, but after that I am stumped.
I popped the glove box down out of the way and I see two thin vacuum lines and a small metal "can" nearby. The black line goes from a fitting and into the A/C bundle, and the white line goes from the top of the metal canister and down into the same bundle. My main question is which line controls the AC selector, and how do I pass a replacement line through that part of the firewall to make a good connection, as it seems the break is at the firewall itself with no extra sticking out for me to connect to.
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97 Aerostar 3.0. Factory A/C system staying on defrost. Going to check and replace as necessary all under hood vacuum lines as soon as it cools down. I can already see some cracks in the plastic lines.
But. Just in case, where is the actuator for the door that directs the air flow either to the dash vents or defroster vents etc? Is it the one I can see from under the hood or in some impossible location?
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1991 aerostar 4.0 ... My van was running well til last week.it allegedly has 77000 miles on it. It started running really rough within a 50 mile period. I've quit driving it til I am sure. I am not harming it. I put a vacuum gauge on it. It wildly fluctuates between 3 and 7 pounds at idle. I've tried plugging the four vacuum lines one at a time to eliminate the accessories as the problem.the check engine light is off and my scan tool shows no codes.i unhooked the exhaust at the manifolds to make sure the cats aren't clogged.it doesn't have egr. There's no water in the oil or bubbles in the radiator.i have a compression tester but id like to avoid trying to get to the plugs unless necessary.
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I just bought a 94 Anniversary Edition that came with an aftermarket remote start. I upgraded the module so I could get better range and would like to connect the rear window defrost to it. I have the trunk release feature on the module and since it isn't in use figured I could use that function for the defrost. The module has a negative output. What wire in the defrost switch would I connect to and would I need a relay to convert the negative pulse to positive? The winters here get extremely cold.
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Its hot in St. Louis and my windshield sure is staying cold (ac blows from defrost vents only).
1999 Ford F350 7.3 diesel 4x4 (4x4 lever on the floor). About a month ago, the ac starts blowing out of the defrost vents only. I assumed it was a vacuum issue.
Lines looked good; very plyable still. Canister looked fine. The vacuum pump on the pass fender well smelled burnt, so I replaced it. Got the new pump in and it didn't work. Checked the fuse panel and found two blown fuses, replaced them and the pump worked.
Here's my issues: if AC max is used, the vacuum pump stops working and air blows through defrost only . If the dash switch is in the off position and then turned back on, air blows through defrost vents again and vacuum pump will not work.
Is there a solenoid or switch to this vacuum pump that I'm not seeing?
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Searched several times over the winter. Finally tore each hose out one at a time and went carefully over it before returning or replacing.
Turned out to be the long formed semi flexible vac. hose that runs from the gas fumes purge tank control valve group to the throttle body across the top of the engine. Ripped it out, on one of the bends was a small crack all the way thru, apparently would open up wide when stressed and cause problems. Mainly on hill pulls or hard acceleration but not every time. NO hair left after this one.
Replaced, deleted the codes. Runs like a top.
Still amazed at how much power these 4.0L V6 OHV Fords have from low speed on an uphill on ramp drag race.
stirs the old hot rodder blood.
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My '95 Aerostar 4.0 no longer likes to shift out of first gear. It will if I accelerate to maybe 25mph and completely get off the throttle for a few seconds. (It also revs freely at full-throttle kick down, as though it was in neutral.) A fluid and filter change didn't work, so I dug into forum posts. I found the vacuum modulator, and there's no ATF in the vacuum line, but it's an adjustable one which has me baffled...
The modulator has a thumb wheel on the outside of it. It will unscrew completely - and then it comes off, with a pin attached to it. This is very different from the ones I've seen pictures of here, where the pin is moved by the diaphragm. Is this the same pin, or some kind of preload device for the actual pin farther inside?
There's enough else wrong with the Aerostar that I'm not willing to sink very much more money into it. It'll run as is, as long as I'm careful. I'm just trying to get a few more miles out of it... might a regular, non-adjustable modulator?
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My 06 F250 crew with the 6.0 starting blowing the cold AC out the defrost vent and will not switch to the dash vents. It's goning to hit 108 today and stay around 105 for the rest of the week.
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The front a/c on my ex on the highest blower motor speed blows out the vents like its on low, but I can hear the motor blowing at full speed. It's not blowing out of defrost or floor unless I switch it. On lower settings I can barely feel any air at all. Only does this rarely. Could it be my vacuum pump?
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