Ford Aerostar :: 4.0L - Rattle At Specific Throttle Settings When Oil Warm
Jan 15, 2013
My 230,000km 4.0 Litre will rattle (Only engine warm) when backing off the throttle such as decelerating slightly in preparation to turn off highway. ONLY when the oil is warm currently using 20/50 oil due to this rattle (improved situation) and if I drive just a certain way, I can avoid the rattle by going straight to negative deceleration from accelerating. When accelerating with any force there is NEVER a rattle. however if the tranny shifts at top rpm for your foots position on the gas, it'll rattle just before the shift, once in a higher gear the force of accelerating again or positive drivetrain force, prevents rattle it seems. SOUNDS like one tappet. or one of something. Cold engine cold oil NO rattle in any throttle position. Warm engine at idle sound will be there but not a clattery rattle just a tick/knock sound steady and I'm sure half engine speed.
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Here's another idle problem. I have a 1992 aerostar, 3.0 2wd with 245,000 kms.
I have been working on this van for weeks now getting it ready for summer. I have done a complete tune up consisting of wires, plugs, rotor, cap, pcv and all filters including gas, air and oil. I have checked the vacuum hoses as best as I could and all seem fine.
Here.s the problem. I start the van and it idles great. The engine doesn't move. After a few minutes it slows down a bit and starts to shake. Once it is completely warm and has been driven for an hour, it shakes noticeably. It has lots of power and gets good mileage. It never has a starting problem and never seems to be close to stalling. I am suspecting it is one of the various pollution control items such as the MAF, IAC or 02 sensor. Is there a way to check them at home?
While under the van, I noticed a cable that goes from the transmission into the firewall. A bracket holding it in place broke and the cable was rubbing against the exhaust pipe and burned through. Could this be related? I taped up the cable and tied it up and away from the pipe.
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History: A few months back I had a leak repaired in my cooling system. I noticed the other night that my radiator was nearly empty again, so I've filled it back up, but haven't fixed it yet.
As summer is over, I no longer need my AC. However that caused me to notice that at its coolest setting, the vents are blowing warm air (maybe 15ยบ warmer than outside) and that seems high to me.
My immediate thought is that the heater control valve may be leaking/damaged/corroded.
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I find that my 2010 V6 is always cold in the winter. I always need to turn the temperature control to the highest, but there is still not enough heat. This morning, it was -11c outside. After I drove 10 KM (about 20 minutes) , inside the car is still very cold. My feet were frozen. The air from the vent is only warm, not hot. I also find that this car takes longer to warm up. The temperature gauge won't start to move until I drive about 2.5KM.
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I have been noticing a rattle noise coming from the a/c vent with the setting on the lowest. What this may be?
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I have a 1993 corolla that runs fine once warm. The problem is a cold idle problem. When starting it cold, it dies unless you feather the throttle. I can keep it running by feathering the throttle until it warms up. Once warm it runs fine. If I let off of the throttle at all during the warmup period, it dies instantly. How does the choke work on these vehicles? Could it be a IACV problem? Anything else it could be?
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My good ole trusty Prius is still running good, change the oil every month (3000-5000 miles) and still drinks oil and a little over half a quart every 1000 miles.. No big deal. Well over the last 20,000 miles I started to notice this off rattle, noise when accelerating mid throttle mostly when up hill. I thought it may have been the timing chain after changing the water pump, spark plugs and using all sorts of fuel additives, but no change.
After time it's only gotten worse, my works buys my fuel (regular 87) but one day I bought my self a tank of super premium, and hey!!! It sounded great, quiet, powerful.
My question is.. Is this because of a worn timing chain making the knock sensor do this, is this because of carbon in the engine? What should I know? I really need to fix this.
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It appears I have stumped my mechanic. My '06 Toyota Sienna with 78k miles started making a rattle noise (my toddler says he hears a helicopter) every time I take my foot off the gas. It is most obvious between 25-60mph. The sound continues when the brake is depressed, but stops once the brake is fully engaged. My mechanic doesn't know what is making the noise, but suspects something inside the transmission, and wants to replace the transmission (which is $5600 I'd rather avoid spending if possible). 78k miles is pretty young for a new transmission, especially on a Toyota, right? Where to look next?
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2009 Matrix 2ZR-FE, briefly rattles on restart after sitting for one hour after reaching running temp. This engine doesn't rattle on a cold startup so I'm wondering what else other than the intake cam gear could cause this. 42,000 miles, 5-20 dino, regular service.
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I finally caught my engine rattle on audio. Give a listen and tell me what you think this is: [URL] .....
There's a TSB about a rattle on a cold start, but mine never rattles when it's cold. This always happens on a warm restart -- usually about 45 to 75 minutes after I've parked it.
It's been doing this for at least a year, but I've had trouble catching it in the act and, of course, the dealer can't reproduce it. I currently have 37k miles on it. Oil changes completed at 1k, 5k and every 5k after. Using Mobil 1 5W-20 since the second change.
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My 2002 Saturn SL1 seems to have a rattling noise when I first start it up. At first I thought it might be the air conditioner compressor, but it continued when I turned the air conditioner off. Now I am wondering if it might be related to my fan motor, for the heater AC. When I turn it off, the rattling noise seems to go away, but not always, especially when first starting the vehicle.
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Car started to jerk when 30mph and up. I changed the fuel filter and oil. Car was ok for a couple of days, however it started to make lound sounds, needing a muffler. i took it to the shop and it needed a flex pipe. All was well for a day, than the car had trouble staying started. It would drive fine, but when you are stationary at a light or stop sign the car wanted to stop. Took it to the shop and the guy said it need a pvc pipe/hose.
The guy told me that the pipe had rotted and it was at the back end of the engine. Car was good for several days, however it now started back jerking at 30mph and up. It will not do it all the time but sometime. It's like the cruise control is going on off. You can step on the gas, but the car will not go any faster, 'just stay the same speed.' When speed is drop it will be ok, but will jerk for a period of time and then stop.
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As everyone can probably tell, I migrated from the 6.0 Diesel section. A few weeks ago I bought myself a 2008 F250 with a 5.4. I do have several questions: It is a 2008 with 116,000 miles on the odometer
The guy I bought it from had replaced the engine in it. The tag on the engine indicates a build date of 4-21-06. It supposedly had 40,000 miles on it. He told me that the mechanic that installed it replaced the spark plugs and replaced one of the timing chain guides.
What model year would the engine be considered for replacement parts and trouble shooting?
I do hear, what I would describe from the old days as lifter noise. It is not a ticking, but more of a swooshing, RPM specific, that is slightly louder when the engine is cold vs. warm. RPM at idle is perfect at 640, fluctuating only about 5-10. It idles very smooth, hardly detectable.
I do not know what kind of oil was used in the truck, but the filter was after market. I changed it to 5W20 with a **** filter the day after I bought it.
The rear end is geared 3.73, and coming from a chipped diesel, this one seems sluggish. I realize this is a very heavy truck for the engine, but should it feel heavy. The "lie o meter" tells me my MPG is 9.4 driving in the city. Have not yet had a good chance to take it on the highway.
So, to summarize in trying to learn the 5.4. What would the model year be considered. What should I check with the swooshing/lifter noise.
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So I'm at my wits end trying to locate (and fix) a loud, high frequency rattle noise inside the engine compartment.
It can be heard when applying the gas pedal a certain amount. In other words, I can "find" the noise and maintain it at a certain rpm.
The noise is coming from the back of the engine near the firewall. It feels and sounds like it's coming from the throttle body plate and vibrating the gas pedal. I cleaned the plate and it isn't loose.
The issue doesn't seem to be affecting engine performance.
The sound is noticeable while driving (under load). When in park, I can find an rpm where the throttle body seems to take a heavy wave of vibration from the engine and hum (but not nearly as loud as while driving). Issue existed before I put on new motor mounts, and still persists after replacing all 4 (although the vibration and noise are reduced).
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I have a 2000 Ford Excursion v10 that won't divert air through any vent. Blower motor works through all speeds from low to high. I hear air being pushed around but doesn't go to any specific vent (barely comes out defrost and front vents though). Temperature Blend door and actuator for door work fine. Vacuum tested and no leaks. Opened up the glove box to expose heater core, noticed the vacuum actuated rod that sits to the left of the heater core is sloppy and barely moves up and down when controls are changed. I believe there is another vacuum actuator in the dash somewhere closer to the driver's side that may pose as a fault as well.
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I bought my truck a couple months back for my custom furniture business. It's a '98 F-150, XLT, 5.4, supercab, 4x4, 3.73, 4R70W, 176k miles, with tow package. Today I picked up a single axle 6x12 trailer enclosed with metal mesh, weighs about 2000 lb. This was my first time towing with this truck and I figured it would run a little slow but this was ridiculous.
Highest speed I could get to was 64 going slightly downhill with OD locked off. Most of the smaller inclines and flat areas were max 55, then the worst was a two mile 7% incline at 35 mph. That last one just wouldn't downshift. This was all between 5000 and 6000 elevation in the Rockies. It's a little embarrassing getting passed by loaded semis
Am I doing anything wrong? Could it just be this specific trailer has issues?
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I just bought a 2000 F250 5.4 gas. I have some minor issues that I will be trying to fix. This is my first full size truck and I bought it to pull a trailer once in a while. How can I find the axle ratio for this specific truck? Is it written on the truck somewhere?
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I have 2010 F150 King Ranch 5.4L. This truck has been giving us problems by just dying. We have haf it towed twice in two days. It does it more often when hooked up to our travel trailer. The day before yesterday we drove it 250 miles w/o the camper with no problems. Once it dies it can take an hoir or so before it starts. I just did a test and had the truck.running for a bit and then plugged the trailer wiring harness (7 pin with brake control) and truck died within a minute. A couple of times it showed that there codes. The codes were P0201 thri P208. Which is open circuit to that specific injector. When the key is turned off the codes go away.
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I'm so frustrated after running several errands in the rain yesterday, and being unable to unlock the Touareg (V6) using the remote key fob unless I'm right next to the car and in a certain spot. It's been an ongoing problem since we got our car in November, but I'm at the end of my rope. It's also embarrasing to be standing in a parking lot circling the car trying to get it unlocked with the remote key fob. This is affecting both the doors and the rear hatch. What solutions are available?
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In the last year and a half I have developed a problem with my truck missing under a very specific condition. It only happens when the humidity is 100%, either right before, during, or after rain. When it's at 100% humidity outside, the first time I start the car for the day it starts missing. This continues until the truck comes up to full temperature, usually a about three or four miles, then it clears up. By the way, snow doesn't cause this unless its mixed with rain.
My mechanics are at a loss, say there is no info on the diagnostics. Since this started, I have had an inclusive tune up, they replace all plugs and wires, I've had all belts and the pulley replaced, and I've changed the intake air filter twice.
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I have a 2002 Camry, V6 1mz-fe with 110k miles, recently developed a vibration which only occurs on acceleration, consistently noticeable at 2100-2500 RPM during acceleration. Acceleration above or below this RPM range is smooth otherwise. Coasting and braking are smooth. This vibration has never happened on the car before, which has been smooth all 110k miles prior.
The vibration was initially pretty bad, felt through the car, steering wheel, floor, and seats. I have since replaced both CV axles and wheel hub bearings, with some improvement. Also got new tires and wheels are fine. I replaced a bad dogbone engine mount at the top passenger side a few thousand miles ago.
Other considerations at the moment include bottom engine mounts, since my dogbone went out before. Other Google search suggestions include spark plugs, exhaust pipe bracket, transmission mount(?).
What could cause such an RPM specific vibration/shudder?
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