Ford Aerostar :: 1999 - No Power At All?
Jul 9, 2012
1999 Windstar has 220k on it. I had to tow it home for him the other day. He said it was acting like the ignition was failing, and then it finally died. We put it on the charger and it now reads 12.7V resting. (not that the battery was dead)
He has no power at all. No interior lights, no door chime, no radio, no windows, no headlights, not even a click when the key is turned.
It has a recent alternator, and that is not backfeeding. I was able to crawl under the front and jumper across to the trigger of the starter solenoid and it seems to crank fine. I checked the grounds for resistance with my ohmmeter and they seem tight and fine. I checked for voltage at the power distribution panel next to the battery and there are no blown fuses, plenty of current present.
What has failed? Before I start ripping the dash apart I figured I'd ask here. I'm a pretty much regular in the 80-86 and 87-96 forums, but don't know anything about the idiosyncrasy's of these minivans.
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Ok .. here is my problem 86 Aerostar up until 3 days ago ran perfectly. plenty of power, idled great no misses, well the other day i washed her up, inside and out. 1sr time in almost a year (gross) so under the hood i see that the air ducts were kind of loose, so i tightened up the clamps. and later drove to the store and low and behold she won't idle and she surging, forward to today i drove to Wrigley auto store and barely made it. connected to their hand-held scan tool and performed the KOEO test and got a undefinable code referring me to a website i then performed the koer test and it would NOT complete the diagnostic for whatever reason, i again performed the KOEO test and it gave me a 22 MAP sensor and O out of range. I could not locate the mass air flow sensor, as everything i read the past 2 days pointed me in that direction. I picked up some cleaner to take off the throttle body and TPS and IAC to clean them 2 parts. am doing that now .. i will return with my results from that shortly ... What/ where this MAP sensor i believe the Chilton manual says that the areostar has the MAF sensor but again i could not locate it
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My 1993 ford aerostar 3.0 is a great vehicle but recently its been killing me trying to figure out what the cause is. I'll start at the beginning. I had a job over the hill in Westwood Ca. Ran low on gas on the way home. Too low apparently. Since i refueled it has a really rough idle and no power under acceleration. After it gets warmed up i get a bad smell of gas and exhaust in the cab.
Now if i turn it off wait 15 min or 12 hours it will run ok for 2 min then back to hell. I has not stalled and i have replaced the fuel filter and a few months back i cleaned the Mass air flow sensor and replaced the TPS. I would love to take it to a mechanic but as i have been living in this old girl for the passed 6 months money is non-existent.
What to do. I have even tried disconnecting 1 at a time... the TPS, MAF, and the 02 sensor. No difference. There has been no check engine light until I tested by disconnecting TPS etc.
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The power steering seems to work fine and dandy. But when I turn the wheel all the way to the right, or to the left, the serpentine belt squeals, indicating that the power steering seems to have faulty valve or whatever. What is causing this problem?
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We have a 1993 Ford Aerostar 4wd Eddie Bauer edition. This van has 150,000 miles on it. In the past 2 years we've had a number of problems related to the van idling hard and having a lack of power.
First, the van revved high and low and was unable to maintain a steady idle....I replaced the throttle positioning sensor and this fixed the problem. Next, the van was running sluggish and was very slow to respond when you pushed the accelerator....I replaced the oxygen sensor and it fixed the problem.
Currently, (a few months after changing the oxygen sensor and the problem being temporarily fixed) the van is having the same issue as before I replaced the O2 sensor (running sluggish and slow to respond to the accelerator). If you press the accelerator down (even to the floor) it barely responds, you can get it driving at highways speeds but it takes a long time to baby it up to those speeds.
When you let off the accelerator after pressing the petal down it actually sometimes gets a second of power. It also is not maintaining a stable idle (fluctuating between high and nearly dying). I bought a new 02 sensor and installed it but it didn't fix the problem this time. The exhaust smells rich in gas. What else might make the van run like this? Possible solutions for where to look next?
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The egr switch is it a solenoid like the purge solenoid cause if it is I have 3 of them that have vacuum flowing through the input port/lower input with no power. Also no clicking when power is applied. What the heck. Isn't it just an on off solenoid..
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1999 windstar transmission. Daughter drives van,never had any problems and suddenly no drive or reverse.Put it in gear ,no rpm drop, same for reverse.I put it in park and it will not roll so I don't believe its a linkage issue. Its like it has no torque converter. Fluid is at the full mark,and has no burnt smell . Its been my experience that a trans. Usually starts slipping,or no up shift or makes some noises when its getting ready to puke. She stopped for a stop light, went to take off and it just rev-ed up like it was in neutral.
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I have a 95 aerostar with the 4.0. After driving a while it wants to lose power. It only happens after the van has been running for a while, at least 2 hours or more. So of course I have mostly noticed it at higher speeds because I was on the interstate going a long distance when it happened most recently. But it has also happened at lower speeds, after the van had been running/driving for about 4 hours. The van doesn't die right off. It is idling as the van slows down. So I can come to a stop, and the van is still running. I can get out and look at it sometimes, it eventually will cut off. Pushing the gas does nothing, other than perhaps encourage it to stall sooner. It is a complete loss of power but the engine remains running at an idle. If I wait 15 minutes it will go a couple more miles down the road. If I wait about an hour, I can get even further. Let it sit overnight and it seems like it will drive endlessly but not so.
If I try to restart it immediately, sometimes it will run/stutter for a moment. I can wait a few minutes and it will run for a minute then die. After repeated tries to get it to start and stay running it just won't, and then I just wait patiently for an extended amount of time (30 minutes or more). Also on a couple of occasions the exhaust has smelled very rich, and sometimes was black. All of this has been in the last couple of days and 600 miles. It isn't throwing any codes.
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1986 3.0 liter. I have a problem, concerning no power. The van starts and idle is slow and a bit rough. Something is not allowing the engine to spool up much past an idle, thus moving past 10 mph is not an option. When you try to rev it, it's like it's either starved of fuel or the ignition advance isn't working. As it is basically winter, with a temperature today of about 25F or less, it was suspected that I'd put in bad fuel (as in, containing water) and possibly the system is partially froze.
When I turn on the key, I can hear the fuel pump pressurize and then shut down, as it normally does. Gas line antifreeze was added but no change; we limped the vehicle at 15 miles or less for almost 2 hours. Likely if the fuel system had ice in it, it would've cleared out by then. As it happened on the road, I'm at the mercy of a shop of which/whom I do not know. Would it be advisable to instruct the mechanic to check for fuel at the "Schneider" or fuel pressure release value, located near the manifold?
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The problem started with me leaving the parking lights on, battery was discharged overnight; jump started it, drove it around to charge the battery, ran fine for two days. Now when I switch Ignition Switch to start I hear a sort of mechanical "clack" and I lose all electrical power, nothing, nada. Removed and took the battery to check it and charge it, tested good and is now fully charged.
Reinstalled battery, same symptom, a "clack" when I try to start it, then dead, all electrical power disappears unless I rock the steering wheel up and down, rock the shifter through the gears, etc. It's been raining in Florida daily, I wonder if water is to blame. Start Lock Relay?? Ignition Switch??
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All of a sudden all the power to the van just quits when I try to start it. I put a load test on the battery and it seems fine. I've still got power at the battery terminals when everything is dead - no dome light or anything else.
We went out for lunch and had to get a jump to get back home. The battery was turning the engine just fine before this sudden event. What would kill all the power to everything every time I try to start it? After some time goes by, the dome lights and chime come back but I can no longer turn the engine over to start it up.
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I have a 1997 Ford Aerostar rwd with a 3.0 L v6. I would like to know how can I remove the power steering pump. Furthermore, the reason I am changing the power steering pump, is because I am changing the rack and pinon mechanism. Additionally, I found the rack filled with hydraulic fluid. If possible pictures would be a nice addition to your respond.
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3.0 ENGINE - For a year now I could not figure out what was wrong with my van. It has a loss of power low end but seems to run OK at higher speeds. I changed the plugs, wires, cap etc, fuel filter and no difference. I finally broke down and took it to Firestoneto diagnose it. The guy told me #5 plug was foul and had oil on in, said it is possibly the rings. They did not charge me but they also did not do a thorough check either. They did not check the compression in the cylinder or other spark plugs.
Spoke to a guy at the auto part store and asked what I could do. He said change the oil and add a can of restore. Also said to put a anti foul adapter in first and then the new plug, the adapter would keep the oil from fouling the new plug.
I got the oil change and added the restor. Drove it for a while and took the plug out myself, its the 2nd one in on the drivers side. The plug was nasty looking. Put the new plug in and started it up. I can see that there is spark going to the new plug but putting the wire on and off made no difference in how the engine ran, like the cylinder was dead. I took the plug out of the adapter and put it back in, still nothing, I took the plug back out and there was no oil or smell of gas. Fuel injector not working? You would think there would be some combustion with the new plug.
A year ago the problem started where the van would run great one day then crappy the next. Sometimes it would run a few days great(like new) then a few days crappy. After a month or so it just ran crappy and basically has ran the same for a year now. I notice the A/C puts a load on the engine and the A/C clutch will click on and off every few second when the van is in gear but not when the van is in park or neutral. A/C is not low and works fine when driving, very cold. I normally turn the A/C off during take off because it takes off much slower with the A/C running.
The van shows some white smoke when I rev it up real good when I first start it but it does not show any smoke when idle and while driving.
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My issue. 95 short Aerostar, Vulcan engine, A4LD trans. Just got it last week. Bought a new trans and when I went to pull the van into the shop, it wouldn't start. Cranks but won't run. First thing I checked is fuel pressure, got zero. Pulled the kick panel and found the inertia switch, but the harness for the switch is getting 1.8 volts with the key in "ON" and the same with it in "START". IIRC it should be zero in RUN after a second or two (if the engine isn't actually running, that is), and 14 in START.
Checked all fuses in the panel by the steering column, they're good, and switched around the 3 relays by the battery. No good and I don't hear the FP relay when I turn the key. For now I'll run wires directly from the battery to the pump, just til I get the trans done, but it needs to be fixed anyway because I plan to make this van a DD. Here are my questions:
-Is there a second fuse panel I didn't find?
-Could this be a computer issue? If it is, would the computer fuse be blown?
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I have a 1992 Aerostar. My power locks wont unlock when the red button is pressed. Locks fine though. The problem exists in both door controls. I replaced both controls and the problem remains. What else could it be that allows me to lock but not to unlock the doors?
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Proud owner here of a '96 3.0L RWD Aerostar Utility Van with about 138k miles, and leaking power steering fluid. At this point I'm replacing fluid from zero every time I have to drive it which is about once a week. I've located the leak and it seems to be coming from the pump/reservoir around the pressure hose. The hose is loose as in i can move it around a bit, but from what I've read, this is normal and the hose is supposed to be like that. I figure that at this mileage, with so much air going through the pump, all the crazy squealing and whining it does even when full, at this point it probably makes sense to replace the whole pump while I'm in there, as opposed to just doing the reservoir. Anyway, I'm planning to do this in a couple of weeks, and have some questions...
1) The pump - I've read on this forum that the best way to go on brand of the pump is Motorcraft.
2) Hoses - I'd like to replace the hoses coming out of the pump while I have this thing all taken apart, but I'm not exactly sure what parts to get. I know one is the pressure and one is the return, but there are variations of each based on the research I've done. The parts on the Napa site have different descriptions like "with switch port", "without switch port" "56in hose" "26in hose", and so on. Which ones I need, specifically the ones connecting directly to the pump? I havent been able to find anything in my research online, in Haynes, or Chiltons manuals.
3) Washers - Whether or not I replace the hoses, should I replace the washers at the connection point? Chilton's seems to recommend replacing them. Will they come with the new pump?
My local auto parts shop has the pulley remover/installer for me to rent so I've already got that squared away. I'm pretty sure I've covered all of my bases otherwise.
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On my 97, I cannot power LOCK the doors from the driver's door switch. All other functions work okay. Jumping the switch has no effect.
On the wiring diagram the wires from right and left door switches come together at the relay (seems logical). Where the relay is located?
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The drivers side power door lock is starting to go out. The lock is very sluggish and sometime does not activate. Two months ago I sprayed the mechanism with some lite oil, that worked for a little while. I could not see the power relay on the power lock there is not much room to see inside the door.
1992 4.0L Aerostar...
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I am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....
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I don't know if this question is stupid or not but I was just wondering on any 86-95 aerostar if a v8 can be put in place of a v6 (or 4cyl) and if there are any kits available? I have a 95 aerostar 3.0 a4ld. I am thinking about the conversion in another because I would like to leave this one stock. It only has 122000 miles, but I think it is highway miles so its got a lot of life left in it. I was just wondering if it is the same process as a ranger or if there is massive modifications. The engine is a 5.0 ho out of a mark 7 with a aod from that same engine.
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I have a 97 4x4 that just recently stopped shifting into OD. I also noticed that I can no longer switch OD on or off on the end of the gear selector. The litle LED light does not turn on or off. Where to start? Just took it on the freeway and the engine sounded like it was working a little harder than normal to be at speed. Confirmed through gas mileage.....
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