Ford Aerostar :: 1998 - Transmission Won't Shift / Stay In 1st Gear
Jan 16, 2014
It's a 1988 with a 3.0 engine and an automatic transmission. It doesn't want to shift. I can make it shift manually, but if I leave it in OD, it wants to stay in 1st gear . If you fiddle with the accelerator, you can get it to shift. Then it wants to stay in 2nd, and so on.
Like I said, if I use the gear selector to manually shift, it will go to all four gears just fine.
My thoughts are a vacuum leak (a big one) or a faulty vacuum modulator at the transmission. No, the vacuum line to it doesn't have tranny fluid in it, but I replaced it, and I wonder if it's bad. Yes, I made sure to put the little metal pin/link back in it.
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We just got a 2008 4Cyl with the 5spd auto. Only had it two weeks. When driving 35-45mph, the tranny will shift up into 5th gear and then basically STAY there. As we approach a slight upward grade, the tachometer is stuck at 1200 RPM and the whole car shudders and vibrates as the engine "lugs" down. We find ourselves constantly playing with the gas pedal in order to FORCE the tranny to downshift.
Took it to dealer. They experienced same thing. They said it was "Normal for this model - at this time". They quietly told me they are getting other complaints and look forward to Toyota releasing new programming for the ECU. Three different drivers and rear passengers have quickly remarked about this "sensation" when going up any grade.
We experience this constantly driving here in Maine. Interstate and inner city driving is fine. If we move the gated shifter to "4" - it resolves this problem. Dealer said this is normal. So I actually purchased a "manual" automatic transmission?? Do we just stop whining and retrain ourselves or do you folks think we can look forward to a solution?Our 2004 Camry, 2002 Tundra and our 1999 Solara had wonderful transmissions.
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Why does the automatic transmission stay in 3rd gear and not shift into overdrive until it gets warmed up? It is so annoying. This is the only car that has ever done this. Even the camry I don't think does this. Especially the fact that the rpms stay above 1k rpm until the engine is warmed up.
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I am considering buying a 98 Passat, it has 140k kms (80,000 miles) on it. It is in mint condition, but the transmission, will not shift past 2nd gear, whether in Auto mode, or manual shifting? (5 speed tiptronic).
The current owner took it to a mechanic, he tested it, replace a sensor in the tranny, but the problem is still there, and the engine light is still on. Is it possible that the computer just needs to be reset with a proper Vag-com?
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL a/t 200000 miles does not shift into overdrive (4th gear ). Is there a relay between the switch and the solenoid?. Is it okay to drive over 40mph.
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Recently I had a stuttering and squealing from a belt. I was able to shift into all gears with no problems. Before I could get it looked at, the squealing stopped and I was unable to go faster than 30 mph. The belt and pulley were replaced, but the car now will not shift out of 2nd gear. Transmission fluid is good, and has not been leaking. Does this indicate that I will need a new transmission? Or is there possibly a less expensive possibility? I've heard that some vehicles have what's called "limp mode". Also, is it safe to drive at 30-35 mph., and what damage might I do by driving it?
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For a while now my transmission has only been able to shift manually for about the first mile of travel when cold or if it sits for more than a couple of hrs.
I drove it that way for a while. Now it only shifts manually all the time and I have to shift from 2nd straight to overdrive. It won't shift to 3rd but stays in second gear until I shift to OD. Then I do have OD.
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My 95 ford Aerostar 3.0 automatic trans wont shift into overdrive, here's what happened. a small hose on the side of the transmission came off, this must have popped off when I was stepping on the gas with the brake on in drive and reverse. It took 2 months to find the hose off, during those 2 months I had to shift the van manually, you had to get high RPMS before it would shift.
About 2 weeks before I found the problem I notice the van would not kick into overdrive. When I finally found the issue and reconnected the hose the trans shifted fine but still would not kick into overdrive though. Is there another vacuum hose that goes to the main vacuum housing? or an adjustment on the linkage area? This has been like this for about 6 months now and I can go on a highway..
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I have a 1991 Aerostar 2wd 3.0. I recently had freeze plugs replaced and the mechanic had to drop the tranny to get to some. Now the shift cable has come off the gear selector lever. I have googled everywhere and can't locate the procedure for reattaching it. My mechanic was doing the work on the side and charged me only labor for his assistant. He is at work right now..
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My '95 Aerostar 4.0 no longer likes to shift out of first gear. It will if I accelerate to maybe 25mph and completely get off the throttle for a few seconds. (It also revs freely at full-throttle kick down, as though it was in neutral.) A fluid and filter change didn't work, so I dug into forum posts. I found the vacuum modulator, and there's no ATF in the vacuum line, but it's an adjustable one which has me baffled...
The modulator has a thumb wheel on the outside of it. It will unscrew completely - and then it comes off, with a pin attached to it. This is very different from the ones I've seen pictures of here, where the pin is moved by the diaphragm. Is this the same pin, or some kind of preload device for the actual pin farther inside?
There's enough else wrong with the Aerostar that I'm not willing to sink very much more money into it. It'll run as is, as long as I'm careful. I'm just trying to get a few more miles out of it... might a regular, non-adjustable modulator?
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My 97 AWD Aerostar bumps in and out of gear on very hot days. I've had the transmission fluid and filter changed. That repair worked, but it still shifts hard when very hot. I tow a boat. I always push the shifter button in to deactivate the OD when towing. I talked to friends who recommended an auxiliary transmission cooler. I looked on the van where one might be installed. I have a factory transmission cooler (oem factory installed).
The cooler is in front of the radiator. I don't see any room to add an additional cooler. The van has 145,000 miles. The van runs and shifts fine most of the time. The problem has happened only on very hot days. What I can do to prevent transmission problems. I've read that the AWD 1997s use a five speed transmission. 1997 was the first and last year the five speed automatic was installed in the AWD Aerostar.
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I searched a lot but did not find these symptoms on my 1992 Aerostar 3.0 2WD with A4LD transmission.
In overdrive, accelerate to down shift, and the transmission goes out of gear. Engine revs as if it was taken out of gear. Manually shift to Drive, and it works fine.
Overdrive works fine if at speed, and works to shift up, but if going slow enough to drop to lower gear, transmission goes out of gear. Manually in drive, works fine.
I may have other symptoms, but this was on the way home from work, and I just parked it. I checked fluid level, and it was fine, still in the cross-hatch area of the stick, light colored oil, no smell.
I will replace the modulator and replace the filter, and see what that will do. If the overdrive works at overdrive speed, I do not see how that could be an overdrive housing failure that I have seen in many posts. I am aware of keeping track of the pin for the modulator.
I also have read that band adjustment is not a good idea. If they are worn that bad, they should be replaced. I don't think it is a band or clutch problem. I think it is a shift control problem. We will start with the modulator and filter and take it from there.
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I've got a 92 star with a 4.0 liter engine and I think a 4ald auto trans. When I 1st start the motor it takes 3-4 minuted before it will go into gear. after that it's fine. I've tightened the 2 bolts under the dash tightening up the shifter and my fluid level is fine.
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Replaced Troque Converter, Truck runs engine runs fine transmission won't shift out of 1st gear.
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I have a 1998 F150 with auto lock 4x4 and a automatic transmission. The problem I am having is after setting for about a week I drove it and 1st to second shift normally but when the RMP's/MPH hits time ti shift to third I get RMP increase and no third. I have shifted it manually 1 then 2 and into drive same result RMP's increase just like it is in neutral.
Miles on trans is about 120K have been serviced about 10K ago with no poor color or smell. Mechanic said transmission and filter looked good no metal or junk in oil. I drive down the road and it shifts from first into second then about 35-40 it hits what should be third but nothing free RPM's. I let it slow down to below 35-30 second kicks back in and away we go again until it's ready to shift into third.
I have been told possible speed sensor problem, possible other sensor problems looking for leads on where to look and what items to check. Just had Shop Mechanic drive it and he was baffled for everything looks good that he checked such as oil, and how it drove until it tries to shift into third. No over drive light flashing or anything and no engine codes showing at all everything clean in memory.
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79 F150 400/C6 2wd. Loss of reverse and it doesn't want to stay in high.
Strange thing happened today. I took my truck on it's longest test drive since rebuilding the transmission. It was about 25 miles. I got to the junk yard just fine and it was running just fine when I left. I went through a drive through to grab a burger and headed home. That's when it started acting funny. It shifted fine 1st to 2nd, then 2nd to 3rd, but it wouldn't stay in 3rd. It would shift into high, but the slightest bit of throttle and it would shift back into 2nd and eventually got so bad that it just stayed in 2nd, so I had to return to the town I was leaving.
I drove to an autoparts store nearby. I decided to move where I was parked and when I put it into reverse, nothing was there. It rolled back. I drove it to the new spot and called for a tow truck. Weird thing is that reverse worked just 10 minutes earlier when I left the junk yard. When I got it home 2 hours later, it backed up under it's own power. I let it cool down completely and took it for a test drive and it drove perfectly. I have a few theories or questions:
Kickdown rod: Can it be in such a position that it could take away reverse? I would assume that if the spring wasn't returning it all the way forward that it wouldn't have shifted from 1st to 2nd properly. I ask this because I am not using the Holley spring mount and I'm wondering if the wrong spring set up allows the kickdown to be partially activated.
Fluid: What fluid are you suppose to use after a rebuild and what fluid can't you use. Mercon V says it supercedes earlier fluids, but is that wrong?
Am I wrong to assume that if fluid was the problem that I would have had problems with 1st and 2nd?
Cooling: What are signs of hot fluid other than smelling it. Once again, assuming I would have problems with all gears if fluid was too hot.
My guess is that something is sticking in the valve body, but before I drop the pan and pull out the valve body, I want to make sure all other avenues are exhausted.
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I have a 2004 f150 with an edge programmer. My transmission will only stay in 3rd gear, the overdrive light is flashing, and it is giving these dtc's: p0720, P0722, P0731, P0732, P2106.... What is going on?
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98 Ranger 4x4 4.0 L Supercab. Today I replaced my instrument cluster lights. When I put everything back together i noticed my gear shift indicator is off and I cant shift into 1st or 2nd. What did I screw up?
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I have a 2001 Elantra GLS, 160,000 miles. These two codes come up on ny diagnostic tool.
P0422
Main catalyst efficiency below threshold (bank 1)
No symptoms at all
P1529
Customer snapshot request
Symptoms
Car will shift hard into third gear and stay there without shifting at all regardless of speed. Shutting the car off and restarting will sometimes fix, but only temporary. When car runs normal, it runs fine and shifts good. At speeds around 40 it seems to kick back and forth between 3rd and overdrive as if it can't decide where to be. Tried replacing speed sensor, but new sensor did not fix problem.
Fuel Sys 1 CL
Fuel Sys 2 NA
Calc Load 18.4
ECT 201
STFT B1 0.0
LTFT B1 -2.3
MAP 8.6
Eng RPM 3351
Veh Speed 22
EV flashing
O flashing
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For a few years now, in cold weather, when starting my 2000 Honda Odyssey the TCS light will stay on and the transmission will not shift out of low gears. I can drive in reverse just fine, but when I try shifting to drive, the "D" drive indicator does not light up and it will only drive in what seems to be first gear. However, when sufficiently warmed up, I can restart the engine, the TCS light goes out, and everything's normal. The warm up time varies from 5 to 10 mins or more, and is unpredictably annoying. I went to a dealer last year and they didn't seem to have a clue. Is it just a matter of a bad sensor?
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I have a Ranger that I have put a 302 engine with an FMX transmission in...everything seems to be working correct except the transmission will not shift in to 3rd gear... don't know alot about transmission.. could this be a linkage adjustment issue?
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