Ford Aerostar :: 1997 - Oil Pressure Fluctuate Rapidly Up And Down?
May 19, 2015
On my 1997 XLT 4.0 the Oil Pressure Gauge (yes, I know it is not a real pressure gauge) started fluctuating down and up rapidly. Revving the engine does not seem to affect it. Oddly, it does not do it for the first few seconds after startup, until the idle stabilizes and lowers.
I checked the connection on the wire to the sending sensor, it looks clean.
Main concern - is this just the sending unit failing, or is it the Oil Pump? Do I need a mechanic to test the actual oil pressure?
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What would make the oil pressure gauge fluctuate and go to zero? I already replaced the oil sending unit, and changed the oil and filter, whats left? maybe a bad gauge?
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Have a 2001 F150 5.4L Super Crew that hates temps below 50 degrees. It has new O2 sensors on the pass side banks, Map and Air charge temp sensors as well as a new IAC motor and a fuel pressure regulator. I've went though all the vacuum lines and replace the cracked dry ones as well a checked for vacuum leaks.
On initial start up, the truck will run and idle fine. after a minute or so, the rpm will fluctuate radically from 500 to 900 RPM. When driving, and you come to a stop sign, the engine will do the same almost seeming to stall. Once the engine reaches full operating temperature, then it runs fine. It always seems to throw P0171 / P0174 when it does this.
We've sprayed all around the intake and cannot find a leak anywhere. I do find it odd that this is a temperature related issue based on the engine operating temperature and the air temp in general. 50 degrees seems to be the turning point from running to just being a hand full until it warms up.
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I recently bought a 20th and instead of the turbo going SWOOSH it sounds like the gate is opening and shutting rapidly as the pressure is exhausted. What is the cause?
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My fuel pressure is at 24 engine of and 29 engine running. Is this a bad fuel pump? I was told that it is supposed to be between 40-45 PSI. Is this correct?
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I have a 96 aerostar with just over 100,000 miles. Recently, after driving about an hour at highway speeds I noticed the oil pressure dropped to zero when I came to a stop in a rest area. I immediately shut the van off and checked the oil, which was full.
After restarting the engine, the oil pressure gauge read normal again so I proceeded on my way down the road keeping a close eye on the gauge. Within minutes the gauge started fluctuating from zero to normal several times and then dropped to zero and stayed there. It sounded like I was getting some top end clacking (may have been my imagination) so I shut off the engine while driving and restarted it and the pressure gauge started reading normal again.
I drove to the next exit and figured it must be the sending unit acting up, so I checked the wiring at the unit for a possible loose connection and finished my 150 mile trip with no further issues with the oil pressure gauge. I have run the van locally on short trips but I am afraid of making any long distance runs without knowing for sure if it was the sending unit or perhaps another more serious problem.
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'97 F150 4.6L 4wd automatic... My gauge jumps around, sometimes it works and other times it shows no pressure. Could that be the oil pump? Or is the gauge most likely bad? Whats the actual purpose of an oil sending unit?
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It all began on my 1997 Camry when the driver's front turn signal began the rapid flashing thing, indicating to me that the bulb in the front was out. I replaced the bulb. The running light part works, but the flasher still does not. On the front passenger side of the car, the turn signal works, but the running light does not. I replaced the passenger side bulb at the same time I replaced the driver's side bulb. The flashing turn signal works as it did before, but the running light still does not go on.
The problem shouldn't be the bulbs - they are new. The flasher unit behind the fuse box should affect both lights flashing, so it probably is not that.
What thing or things can cause one light to flash for the turn signal but not be on constantly for the running light (passenger front side) and to work as a running light being constantly on, but not flashing as a turn signal (driver's front side)?
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I have a 97 4x4 that just recently stopped shifting into OD. I also noticed that I can no longer switch OD on or off on the end of the gear selector. The litle LED light does not turn on or off. Where to start? Just took it on the freeway and the engine sounded like it was working a little harder than normal to be at speed. Confirmed through gas mileage.....
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1997 AWD 4.0L with 112k
Background : Last year van suddenly overheated (almost to red). Turned on front and rear heat full blast and drove home - about 5 miles. Tested thermostat in boiling water and found that it would not open.
Fix : Pressure-washed radiator fins. Flushed system with Prestone kit and cleaner. Replaced thermostat and temp sending sensors (gauge and ECU) with Autozone parts. Added 50/50 coolant and correct amount of Bar's leak. Temps returned to normal.
Problem : As outside temps warm, the van now consistently runs between "A" and "L" in "NORMAL" on the gauge. AC on/off makes no difference nor does sitting or highway speeds.
Initial Fix : Suspecting the non-OEM Autozone thermostat to be the cause, I replaced the thermostat with a 197 degree Motorcraft unit from the dealer. The van still runs at the same temp.
My Thoughts :
Fan Clutch - Unlikely. Resistance when turning by hand. No fluctuation between sitting and highway speeds implies airflow is adequate
Thermostat - Unlikely. New OEM unit.
Temp sending sensor for gauge - False high reading a possibility. May try to measure temp of radiator supply hose directly to see if it's accurate. May also try to measure sensor resistance to see if it's within specs.
Radiator - Likely? Older van, so scale may be causing blockage. Temps have increased with time. No fluctuation between sitting and highway speeds supports blockage. No issue when outside temps are colder also seem to support blockage theory.
Conclusion : Radiator is okay with winter temps, but reaches it's cooling capacity with summer temps.
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97 3.0 2WD, Where is the differential vent or does it even have one? I've got a rear axle seal leaking.
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My 1997 Aerostar's cruise control is not working. Horn is functional however. I've checked fuses and they seem to be ok. What could my problem be?
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Where the fuel filter for a 1997 ford aerostar is located? I have been told it is under the driver side near the front tire. I cannot find it anywhere. Is it near the middle by the transmission? I would like to see a schematic also?
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78,000 miles on odometer. The van starts and runs great. Always has. No change in performance since check engine light went on. Took it to local parts store here in California. They used to run codes here but can't any longer for the usual reasons. I replaced the EGR valve because I knew it was due and disconnected the battery and started the van. Light was off. Drove it a few times and it came back on again. Still runs fine though. I heard the Aerostar may kick a code off simply because it's due for a plug change. I think the plugs are original so I'm going to replace them. Plug wires too.
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Lately my '97 Aerostar has required a lot of cranking to get started. Like...sometimes 15-20 seconds before it fires. If I get it started, drive somewhere, shut it down, and then a few minutes later try to start it, it starts right up.
-Interesting: I've discovered that I can start it if I crank it 15-20 seconds. But I can start it far quicker if I crank for about 5 seconds, stop, and then crank it again. Then it typically starts right up.
It has done this on rare occasion for the past few years, but lately it is becoming the Norm, so something is wrong.
Hmm. Leaking injector comes to mind, but the oil doesn't smell like gas.
What is the failure mode of the fuel pump, and do I really have to remove the drive shaft and drop the tank to change the fuel pump?
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97 Aerostar 3.0. Factory A/C system staying on defrost. Going to check and replace as necessary all under hood vacuum lines as soon as it cools down. I can already see some cracks in the plastic lines.
But. Just in case, where is the actuator for the door that directs the air flow either to the dash vents or defroster vents etc? Is it the one I can see from under the hood or in some impossible location?
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When I had my heads replaced, the mechanic informed me that my cruise control cable was broken. News to me. It worked fine before. He said he couldn't find a replacement. I went to my local Ford parts dept. and they told me it was a discontinued item.
So I went online and ordered one from Direct Ford Parts and it did not match. The part number was FMC-F49Z9A825JA. In the parts catalog it says it fits 92-97. Not even close. The one I have has a screw off top and the one sent has a bolt on housing.
1997 Ford Aerostar 4.0 ... I really need my cruise control ...
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I'm having some trouble with the front blower fan on my 97 Aerostar 3.0, it will only intermittently work, one time we had it running, lifted up the hood on the van, checked the connection to the motor, looked good, dropped the hood and the fan immediately started working again, I'm wonder if the relay might be starting to go bad, the fan in the back works, so I'm not sure. Where the relay is for the blower motor, or what might be wrong?
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My wife says the 97 3.0 2wd has an intermittent beeping of various patterns and volumes. Slow beep, fast beep, continuous beep. Not the ding bell you hear when you leave the lights on. I've only heard it once. It was continuous low volume and it stopped before I could locate the source. It seems to happen on first start up but not all the time and goes away after a few miles. What it is and how to disable it?
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Problem solved- update! Found a main vacuum line, (white one), broken right above where the oil filler tube is. I guess if the plenum door is not in the proper position, it screws with the fan? Works like a champ now even with 442,000 miles on this van! --- 1997 aerostar, 3.0. Doesn't matter what I'm using, vent, heater, or AC. When I have the fan switch "on", The fan will shut off, then turn back on whenever it feels like. I've tried turning the controls on and off in any and all ways, and still random fan goes on-off when it's turned on. Is there a sensor somewhere that could cause this? Or what?
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'97 Ford Aerostar, 155k miles. Airbag model-
The problem: When I turn the wheel, there is some grabbing and tightness, and a strange grinding noise from the top of the steering column, like, right under the steering wheel. What's more, the wheel will actually pivot up and down on the steering shaft. I have tried pulling on it, and it loosen the grabbing, but it won't pull off in my hands or anything....
I suspect a bearing in the upper steering column has failed or has come loose. I guess I need to pull the bag and look around- Are there any tricks to pulling the airbag?
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