Ford Aerostar :: 1997 - Heater / AC Blower Turns Off And On Randomly
Oct 9, 2016
Problem solved- update! Found a main vacuum line, (white one), broken right above where the oil filler tube is. I guess if the plenum door is not in the proper position, it screws with the fan? Works like a champ now even with 442,000 miles on this van! --- 1997 aerostar, 3.0. Doesn't matter what I'm using, vent, heater, or AC. When I have the fan switch "on", The fan will shut off, then turn back on whenever it feels like. I've tried turning the controls on and off in any and all ways, and still random fan goes on-off when it's turned on. Is there a sensor somewhere that could cause this? Or what?
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I'm having some trouble with the front blower fan on my 97 Aerostar 3.0, it will only intermittently work, one time we had it running, lifted up the hood on the van, checked the connection to the motor, looked good, dropped the hood and the fan immediately started working again, I'm wonder if the relay might be starting to go bad, the fan in the back works, so I'm not sure. Where the relay is for the blower motor, or what might be wrong?
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97 Aero. Just recently experienced this weird issue. Had the AC on for a warm day and heading down the freeway at 70mph. The AC is kicking out some nice cool air. Noticed that when the van was heading up a slight grade, the air speed coming out of the vent would slowly diminish until no air came through the vents at all.
As soon as the van leveled out or started heading downhill, the vent air speed would pick back up and blow normally. This happened repeatedly. Is this a blower issue? Vent door issue? Something else? Since the van was traveling at speed, I could not tell is the blower was still blowing when I was experiencing no air out of the vents.
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My 1997 XLT 4.0 AWD w/Rear A/C has been having a Blower Motor issue for many months. Occasionally the front blower does not blow. Banging on the Blower Motor, either from under the hood, or even from inside the van underneath the glove box, will start it up again. Once running, it continued running okay until at least the next shutdown. This has gone on throughout the summer. Sometimes a good bump in the road would start it.
Now that the winter is here, heat and defrost are more critical, so it has become a bigger problem. Furthermore, is is now almost constant, where it rarely works without a bang. So it is time to actually fix it now.
From other posts, I think it is either the Blower Motor itself, or the Control Module / Resistor. But since the control module is not located on the motor itself, where I bang, it is probably the motor. Question:
1 - What is the problem, and can I fix it with grease (elbow or actual) etc... or is replacement the proper option?
2 - Should I replace the wheel too, which is not available on RockAuto - but is on the junkyard options on eBay. Unfortunately those are often just as broken as mine. Generic Wheels are available in Auto Zone.
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I have a problem in my Touareg 2005 R5 TDI, my heater blower works fine while ignition on. When I start the engine, blower starts for a moment and then stops .This problem happened first time before 2 months and suddenly blower worked fine till today.Now i have the same problem.I tried to replace the blower motor but nothing changed.
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97 aerostar rear ac stopped working. Blower runs fine. Checked solenoid has power and clicks when plug pulled and refitted.
Liquid line is hot to solenoid and somewhat warm after the solenoid. Return line from evap is at room temp.
Front is 40f at register. Am I looking at bad solenoid or blocked orifice tube. Solenoid is nla. Orifice not so. Still on original evaps comp etc.
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Is there any way the front blower can be wired to run or spin FASTER? The rear blower in my 1997 spins fast enough but the front could use a 5th speed. I have interchanged blowers and Resistors from rear to front, but no change, both resistors and blowers are identical. I remember one time a residential a/c tech showed me how to rewire the air handler blower in my apt. to make it run faster and the result was amazing, though he did explain the life of the blower would be shortened, I never had any problem. Does the same principle apply to a 12V automotive blower?
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Locating subject relay on my F-150 XLT Extended Cab, 4.6Ltruck. All my research thus far indicates it is somewhere on the truck. An electrical diagram I've come up with shows it in the "Blower/Flasher Relay Block". So my question is exactly where is the Blower/Flasher Relay Block?
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I am not great with electrical but can manage. Here's the deal, Ihave a 1997 ford ranger 2wd 2.3L 5spd with a/c 233,000 miles i just replaced the heater blower motor resistor as the old one was rusted bad as was the pig tail going to it bad that one of the terminals broke off and was rusted in the harness so i replaced the plug as well problem is i still have no fan if i jump it it works but have no power at the plug for resistor or motor and no power at the switch inside the truck I do have power to one terminal where the relay plugs in, where to look next?
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The car is a '99 Volvo V70 XC AWD. The blower for the heater wasn't working this morning. When I left work it was blowing a little but not as high as it should on full.
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I took my 1996 Aerostar to get a coolant leak fixed. It had leaked down 4 litres+. I noticed the gauge was in the red. When I got my vehicle back from the shop the rear heater worked but the front heater didn't. I took it back and they flushed it out to get any air bubbles and now the front heater works and the rear heater doesn't work. Could it be the controls that are faulty. If so, is that very expensive. I'd rather have front heat then rear heat for defrost etc. Or could it be something else? It's odd that I get one or the other but not both.
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Anyways, My 2001 Windstar has been acting up recently mainly the headlights flickering every now and then, car randomly stalling out on me - after it dies, I pull over and start it up right away and the ABS light came on.
Check engine light is on (presumably due to the car stalling out) but I do not seem to be able to read the codes, the code reader is working fine on my 2001 Expedition but on the Windstar it just sites there at 'connecting to vehicle'. I've tried disconnecting the battery for 10-15 mins and this made no difference, I also checked the fuse for the port was good so now I'm not sure what to check next.
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I just wanted to share with you all about a coolant leakage problem I had experienced for a couple of days.
It all started a few days ago when I noticed the temperature gauge needle, which I hardly ever look at, began fluctuating in the hot region. I thought "oh my god" what is wrong? I then stopped at the nearest gas station and added some, I mean a lot, of water. My initial thought was the coolant level was too low.
The following day, I noticed the belts were squealing a bit (at that time I thought it was another vehicle with loose belts, but NO... it was mine making the belt noise). At that time, I did not realize it was because the coolant was leaking onto the belt(s). But then when I made a stop at a location for a couple of minutes, I returned to my Aerostar and noticed a trail of coolant leaking from underneath the vehicle.
I thought "oh my god" the water pump is busted! I then took it to a local repair shop and inquired about the cost to replace the water pump.
But after I inspected the vehicle more thoroughly, I noticed some dryed out green colored stuff where the heater hose connects to the water pump. I then removed the heater hose from the water pump and discovered to my surprise a tiny hole had developed where the hose is expanded from 5/8 to 3/4 inches.
My plan to repair the problem is to purchase about 6" of 3/4" heater hose (to connect it to the water pump), and a Gates or Dorman plastic adapter reduction fitting that reduces it to 5/8", in order to plug it into the factory original old heater hose.
This is an emergency repair. While inspecting the heater hose, I discovered an electrical connection that goes no where.
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My blower on my 2010 Lariat truck isn't working and I can't seem to figure the issue. No heat or AC. It seems that some air is coming through, and the fan indicator shows it on high, but nothing.
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I am talking about those two hoses going into the firewall by my Blower Motor assembly that may be leaking and wanted to know if i can bypass or plug up these two hoses, since i no longer have ARA A/C and heater.
1986 140 CID GAS Ford Ranger 2.3, 5-speed manual
After market ARA A/C - No longer working
Blower motor heating coil element caught on fire - heater no longer working either.
Most days, before I drive somewhere, even just a few miles or less, I have to put in a little coolant, about one or two cups, So I know there is a leak coming from somewhere, it's just not visible, but strangely dripping from my right side front fender wall, just below the air filter, seems strange. Did not see any tiny leaks from my radiator.
What I have done was to check hoses from the radiator to the engine and noticed no leaks. Is there anything else I could do without a major repair? I even used that stop leak a while ago, but that didn't work.
A few days later.. Ok, when I got home today, I noticed antifreeze dripping from that shield over the right side passengers wheel well. I crawled underneath and on the other side of the tire, and did not see anything as the source. I would think that it would be in the area of the radiator, either upper or lower hoses, or that short hose to the block near the water pump. I will check the heater core hoses going from engine area into Firewall again. But I did not see anything leaking from that right side firewall. I have an aftermarket ARA AC, bit that hasn't worked for years.
If the leak is not coming from the head gasket, upper or lower radiator hoses, or those two hoses going into the firewall, where else could it be coning from? Very strange it's not anywhere near the radiator or engine, but on the right side passenger's side, above the tires wheel well. Some have said it has to be from either those two heater core water hoses going into the firewall.
I have neither a working air conditioner (after marker ARA) or a working heater (leaves found their way from the outside hood vents into the Blower motor and EVAP core and the heating element caught some leaves on fire and burned mostly everything inside this box. I have not replaced that, nor would I at this point,but just want to fix the leak)
A friend suggested that I could just BYPASS the water hoses going into the firewall....is this plausible? Do I do next to the inlet/outlet hoses bt the water pump. or somewhere else?
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I'm feeling a bit embarrassed posting my delima, but I have a minor coolant leak which seams to be coming from where the heater hoses connect to the water pump and as well to the thermostat nuckle thingy. I have replaced all of the hose fittings with SS band clamps.
A couple of weeks ago I replaced the water pump, thermostat, alternator, rad hoses, belts, coolant sensor, PS tension pulley. The water pump is now tight and sealed. Since then the temperature gauge has been continually fluctuating from Normal to near Cold.
I was wondering if I should have placed some type of sealant compound where the heater hoses connect to the water pump and also to the thermostat nuckle thingy.
Initially, I thought it may be residual trapped air in the coolant system. But after a week, it became apparent that the heater hoses were leaking at the engine, and at the water pump, connections.
What puzzles and torments me is why is the temperature gauge fluctuating so widely up and down? This is totally weird.
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Have an 05 Limited Excursion v10 where the front blower motor will cut out randomly. The rear blower will work without issue even when the front is not working. When the front is working (98% of the time) all speeds seem to work and can adjust to all heating/cooling positions. After searching the forum I thought the likely culprit was the blower motor; which I replaced this pass weekend but coming home from work it cut off again, clearly the issue is not resolved. I know the ford resistor are known to be prone to issues but symptoms do not seem to point that direction. Also it is does not happen with any consistency, happens at idle just as frequently as the expressway. What else to check and how to check before I have to give in and take to dealership...
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I had to replace the vacuum control for the heater in the dash panel. The fan worked good on all 4 speed settings but only in the defrost position due to the damaged control valve. The control valve works all position for the heater positions now. There is power at both sides of the heater fuse under the dash but no blower function. Is there a fuseable link elsewhere in the system to check. Is the fan motor only accessible to test by accessing the heater/AC under the dash on the passenger side. 1973 Crew Cab....
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When the blower is on, it automatically switches from vents to defrost vents on its on. Does it about every 4 minutes.... like it's haunted. Curious if this is something i can tackle or do i need to take it in...
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I have a 1996 Ranger that the Heater/AC blower only works when the outside air temp is above 45 degrees. I have replaced the relay, and the blower motor resistor. What could be causing this?
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Recently bought a 2003 E350. The front heater/ac blower motor isn't working. I found the control switch melted and bought a new switch. Before installing it, I need to do some diagnostics. I checked the blower with a couple of jumpers ant it turns and blows. I think that leaves the blower motor resistor. Where it is on a 2003 E350? I also need to check the relay. I have a power distribution box at the front left under the hood. Is the relay there? The box is not labeled like my GM products. Which is the blower motor relay? Finally, which fuse controls the blower motor? I read it might be a 40 amp fuse. If so, that might narrow it down.
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