finally found the reasons for the two Codes in my '97 4.0.
here are the culprits: Code P401 DPFE Sensor, found it on eBay. (The metal case sensor, nos)
Code P1443 Evap system Purge Sensor (also eBay)
Finally, CEL is off after replacing both sensors above.
Now I have to figure out the REAR ABS light, still ON.
My 1997 aerostar 3.0 6 cylinder, throwing code p1443 for the evap system. What should I be looking for?
View 5 RepliesI've been getting this code for a while. Changed the Purge solenoid and valve, replaced the hose from the canister to the two units, didn't change the hose to the intake.
Is there anything else to check? Could it be a bad gas cap? the one on the truck is a replacement.
I have a 1997 Ford Ranger and my Check Engine Light came on a while back. So I eventually bought a scan tool and I'm only getting one code which is P1443. I've looked at both my Chilton and Haynes Manuals, my Ranger manual itself which is pretty useless for this problem, and I've been searching the internet like crazy.
From the threads I have read here it doesn't seem like a hard problem to fix yourself, and it seems like if you take it in anywhere they will charge you an arm and a leg to work on the EVAP system but it's an affordable do it yourself project.
I just don't know where to begin though, I see people talking about buying the complete set with hoses and the canister and sensor all together but I can't find all these parts. Where do I begin to repair the EVAP system?
97 ranger 2.3l ... I have a problem where I'm losing full power (like cutting out) while under acceleration it's only for a split second almost like a hesitation. I got p1443 for the first time today and I was looking at my fuel trims and I noticed my long term FT is at 99.2% and never changes while my short term goes between negative and positive no more than 6%positive and like -4% I assume this is normal for short term but I really am just guessing on that. I am thinking perhaps I need a new fuel pump...but maybe I'm wrong...truck has a new fuel filter and a new evap purge solenoid...
View 14 RepliesI have a 95 aerostar with the 4.0. After driving a while it wants to lose power. It only happens after the van has been running for a while, at least 2 hours or more. So of course I have mostly noticed it at higher speeds because I was on the interstate going a long distance when it happened most recently. But it has also happened at lower speeds, after the van had been running/driving for about 4 hours. The van doesn't die right off. It is idling as the van slows down. So I can come to a stop, and the van is still running. I can get out and look at it sometimes, it eventually will cut off. Pushing the gas does nothing, other than perhaps encourage it to stall sooner. It is a complete loss of power but the engine remains running at an idle. If I wait 15 minutes it will go a couple more miles down the road. If I wait about an hour, I can get even further. Let it sit overnight and it seems like it will drive endlessly but not so.
If I try to restart it immediately, sometimes it will run/stutter for a moment. I can wait a few minutes and it will run for a minute then die. After repeated tries to get it to start and stay running it just won't, and then I just wait patiently for an extended amount of time (30 minutes or more). Also on a couple of occasions the exhaust has smelled very rich, and sometimes was black. All of this has been in the last couple of days and 600 miles. It isn't throwing any codes.
My van is spouting SRS fault codes 1-3 and 5-1. I had my shop run a diagnosis and it appears the module has failed. I'm having trouble tracking down a replacement. The Module on my van is Ford# F5AF-14BO56-AA. I see modules with -AD or -BD, but none that match this number perfectly. I also see lots of modules for related Ford vehicles from the same era. Looking for a ford parts number reference sheet that will indicate on what vehicles this module was used or if there is any chance that related modules are compatible?
View 14 RepliesFirst, how can I get the fault codes from ABS system? I cannot find the connector from where to activate it. Looking for a picture where is it located, and how does it look letterike?
Second problem is with starting, occurs sometimes. I just crank the engine, but it doesn't start, when I play with gas pedal, then it will start with 2-3 cylinders, runs really rough for half a minute like this (I hold the gas pedal down, otherwise would die), then gradually gets better until normalizes. Some other time, starts and runs fine. It could happen both with cold or warm engine.
I have a 97 4x4 that just recently stopped shifting into OD. I also noticed that I can no longer switch OD on or off on the end of the gear selector. The litle LED light does not turn on or off. Where to start? Just took it on the freeway and the engine sounded like it was working a little harder than normal to be at speed. Confirmed through gas mileage.....
View 14 Replies1997 AWD 4.0L with 112k
Background : Last year van suddenly overheated (almost to red). Turned on front and rear heat full blast and drove home - about 5 miles. Tested thermostat in boiling water and found that it would not open.
Fix : Pressure-washed radiator fins. Flushed system with Prestone kit and cleaner. Replaced thermostat and temp sending sensors (gauge and ECU) with Autozone parts. Added 50/50 coolant and correct amount of Bar's leak. Temps returned to normal.
Problem : As outside temps warm, the van now consistently runs between "A" and "L" in "NORMAL" on the gauge. AC on/off makes no difference nor does sitting or highway speeds.
Initial Fix : Suspecting the non-OEM Autozone thermostat to be the cause, I replaced the thermostat with a 197 degree Motorcraft unit from the dealer. The van still runs at the same temp.
My Thoughts :
Fan Clutch - Unlikely. Resistance when turning by hand. No fluctuation between sitting and highway speeds implies airflow is adequate
Thermostat - Unlikely. New OEM unit.
Temp sending sensor for gauge - False high reading a possibility. May try to measure temp of radiator supply hose directly to see if it's accurate. May also try to measure sensor resistance to see if it's within specs.
Radiator - Likely? Older van, so scale may be causing blockage. Temps have increased with time. No fluctuation between sitting and highway speeds supports blockage. No issue when outside temps are colder also seem to support blockage theory.
Conclusion : Radiator is okay with winter temps, but reaches it's cooling capacity with summer temps.
97 3.0 2WD, Where is the differential vent or does it even have one? I've got a rear axle seal leaking.
View 5 RepliesMy 1997 Aerostar's cruise control is not working. Horn is functional however. I've checked fuses and they seem to be ok. What could my problem be?
View 10 RepliesWhere the fuel filter for a 1997 ford aerostar is located? I have been told it is under the driver side near the front tire. I cannot find it anywhere. Is it near the middle by the transmission? I would like to see a schematic also?
View 4 Replies78,000 miles on odometer. The van starts and runs great. Always has. No change in performance since check engine light went on. Took it to local parts store here in California. They used to run codes here but can't any longer for the usual reasons. I replaced the EGR valve because I knew it was due and disconnected the battery and started the van. Light was off. Drove it a few times and it came back on again. Still runs fine though. I heard the Aerostar may kick a code off simply because it's due for a plug change. I think the plugs are original so I'm going to replace them. Plug wires too.
View 14 RepliesLately my '97 Aerostar has required a lot of cranking to get started. Like...sometimes 15-20 seconds before it fires. If I get it started, drive somewhere, shut it down, and then a few minutes later try to start it, it starts right up.
-Interesting: I've discovered that I can start it if I crank it 15-20 seconds. But I can start it far quicker if I crank for about 5 seconds, stop, and then crank it again. Then it typically starts right up.
It has done this on rare occasion for the past few years, but lately it is becoming the Norm, so something is wrong.
Hmm. Leaking injector comes to mind, but the oil doesn't smell like gas.
What is the failure mode of the fuel pump, and do I really have to remove the drive shaft and drop the tank to change the fuel pump?
On my 1997 XLT 4.0 the Oil Pressure Gauge (yes, I know it is not a real pressure gauge) started fluctuating down and up rapidly. Revving the engine does not seem to affect it. Oddly, it does not do it for the first few seconds after startup, until the idle stabilizes and lowers.
I checked the connection on the wire to the sending sensor, it looks clean.
Main concern - is this just the sending unit failing, or is it the Oil Pump? Do I need a mechanic to test the actual oil pressure?
97 Aerostar 3.0. Factory A/C system staying on defrost. Going to check and replace as necessary all under hood vacuum lines as soon as it cools down. I can already see some cracks in the plastic lines.
But. Just in case, where is the actuator for the door that directs the air flow either to the dash vents or defroster vents etc? Is it the one I can see from under the hood or in some impossible location?
When I had my heads replaced, the mechanic informed me that my cruise control cable was broken. News to me. It worked fine before. He said he couldn't find a replacement. I went to my local Ford parts dept. and they told me it was a discontinued item.
So I went online and ordered one from Direct Ford Parts and it did not match. The part number was FMC-F49Z9A825JA. In the parts catalog it says it fits 92-97. Not even close. The one I have has a screw off top and the one sent has a bolt on housing.
1997 Ford Aerostar 4.0 ... I really need my cruise control ...
I'm having some trouble with the front blower fan on my 97 Aerostar 3.0, it will only intermittently work, one time we had it running, lifted up the hood on the van, checked the connection to the motor, looked good, dropped the hood and the fan immediately started working again, I'm wonder if the relay might be starting to go bad, the fan in the back works, so I'm not sure. Where the relay is for the blower motor, or what might be wrong?
View 6 RepliesMy wife says the 97 3.0 2wd has an intermittent beeping of various patterns and volumes. Slow beep, fast beep, continuous beep. Not the ding bell you hear when you leave the lights on. I've only heard it once. It was continuous low volume and it stopped before I could locate the source. It seems to happen on first start up but not all the time and goes away after a few miles. What it is and how to disable it?
View 14 RepliesProblem solved- update! Found a main vacuum line, (white one), broken right above where the oil filler tube is. I guess if the plenum door is not in the proper position, it screws with the fan? Works like a champ now even with 442,000 miles on this van! --- 1997 aerostar, 3.0. Doesn't matter what I'm using, vent, heater, or AC. When I have the fan switch "on", The fan will shut off, then turn back on whenever it feels like. I've tried turning the controls on and off in any and all ways, and still random fan goes on-off when it's turned on. Is there a sensor somewhere that could cause this? Or what?
View 6 Replies