Ford Aerostar :: 1997 - Blower Vent Went Out Whilst Going Uphill?
Sep 6, 2011
97 Aero. Just recently experienced this weird issue. Had the AC on for a warm day and heading down the freeway at 70mph. The AC is kicking out some nice cool air. Noticed that when the van was heading up a slight grade, the air speed coming out of the vent would slowly diminish until no air came through the vents at all.
As soon as the van leveled out or started heading downhill, the vent air speed would pick back up and blow normally. This happened repeatedly. Is this a blower issue? Vent door issue? Something else? Since the van was traveling at speed, I could not tell is the blower was still blowing when I was experiencing no air out of the vents.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
97 3.0 2WD, Where is the differential vent or does it even have one? I've got a rear axle seal leaking.
View 5 Replies
I'm having some trouble with the front blower fan on my 97 Aerostar 3.0, it will only intermittently work, one time we had it running, lifted up the hood on the van, checked the connection to the motor, looked good, dropped the hood and the fan immediately started working again, I'm wonder if the relay might be starting to go bad, the fan in the back works, so I'm not sure. Where the relay is for the blower motor, or what might be wrong?
View 6 Replies
Problem solved- update! Found a main vacuum line, (white one), broken right above where the oil filler tube is. I guess if the plenum door is not in the proper position, it screws with the fan? Works like a champ now even with 442,000 miles on this van! --- 1997 aerostar, 3.0. Doesn't matter what I'm using, vent, heater, or AC. When I have the fan switch "on", The fan will shut off, then turn back on whenever it feels like. I've tried turning the controls on and off in any and all ways, and still random fan goes on-off when it's turned on. Is there a sensor somewhere that could cause this? Or what?
View 6 Replies
My 1997 XLT 4.0 AWD w/Rear A/C has been having a Blower Motor issue for many months. Occasionally the front blower does not blow. Banging on the Blower Motor, either from under the hood, or even from inside the van underneath the glove box, will start it up again. Once running, it continued running okay until at least the next shutdown. This has gone on throughout the summer. Sometimes a good bump in the road would start it.
Now that the winter is here, heat and defrost are more critical, so it has become a bigger problem. Furthermore, is is now almost constant, where it rarely works without a bang. So it is time to actually fix it now.
From other posts, I think it is either the Blower Motor itself, or the Control Module / Resistor. But since the control module is not located on the motor itself, where I bang, it is probably the motor. Question:
1 - What is the problem, and can I fix it with grease (elbow or actual) etc... or is replacement the proper option?
2 - Should I replace the wheel too, which is not available on RockAuto - but is on the junkyard options on eBay. Unfortunately those are often just as broken as mine. Generic Wheels are available in Auto Zone.
View 5 Replies
97 aerostar rear ac stopped working. Blower runs fine. Checked solenoid has power and clicks when plug pulled and refitted.
Liquid line is hot to solenoid and somewhat warm after the solenoid. Return line from evap is at room temp.
Front is 40f at register. Am I looking at bad solenoid or blocked orifice tube. Solenoid is nla. Orifice not so. Still on original evaps comp etc.
View 7 Replies
Is there any way the front blower can be wired to run or spin FASTER? The rear blower in my 1997 spins fast enough but the front could use a 5th speed. I have interchanged blowers and Resistors from rear to front, but no change, both resistors and blowers are identical. I remember one time a residential a/c tech showed me how to rewire the air handler blower in my apt. to make it run faster and the result was amazing, though he did explain the life of the blower would be shortened, I never had any problem. Does the same principle apply to a 12V automotive blower?
View 14 Replies
I have an 88 EB, and every time I fill up the gas tank and park on my driveway (slight incline) gas leaks from the top of the tank. 3 different mechanics have checked it out completely and say there it nothing wrong - including the dealer that totally topped off the tank. Does this sound like a fill line to the tank? It only leaks until the gas gauge goes down a notch....
View 14 Replies
Front diff does not leak but seems to get alot of oil coming out vent hose. enough to make a mess and require more top offs.
View 4 Replies
My A/C, vent fan (blower motor) keeps going in and out. Does not do it all the time, but when it goes out, it will come back on after a few moments, but will not run full speed. If you try to adjust the speed, it just cuts off again. What is causing this.
View 7 Replies
I have 2002 4.2L F150 w/ Manual Transmission. The problem I have started about a week ago. I noticed it started to idle very rough and at times felt like it would almost stall if i didn't keep giving it some gas. Then a few days later it started to jerk/and buck intermittently while accelerating. I changed out the plugs and wires. My coil pack was replaced a year ago but was still under warranty so i installed a new one just in case. I cleaned and inspected the EGR valve and replaced the TPS. The rough idling seems to have cleared up but the jerking/and bucking still remains.
When the engine is cold the truck runs fine, and then as the engine starts to warm up it will jerk and buck while accelerating at any speed. Once the engine has reached its optimal temperature the jerking/bucking goes away and it runs smooth as silk. I can drive it for for a few hours with no issues whatsoever. As soon as the engine cools, the cycle starts all over again. I figured maybe the intake gaskets were on their last legs and when they heat up they seal tighter causing the engine to smooth out.
So I replaced the upper and lower plenum gaskets today and cleaned everything up. It still did not fix the problem.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2000 5.4 4x2 with about 118k. the pinion seal was leaking. I replaced the seal and added proper amount of 75/140 diff fluid as listed on the tag. I marked the pinion nut, flange and housing, so I could count the number of turns it took to remove nut. I put back the same but now I have a whine at low speed on deceleration. under normal throttle and at higher speeds it sounds just fine. Its just on deceleration and at 5mph or less. The sound was not there before I did the new seal.
View 2 Replies
Recently, the air coming out of the vents has been intermittent, sometimes it blows sometimes it doesn't. I think I found the issue, the electrical contacts in the harness that plugs into the blower are either rusted out or have been almost burned out. Not as bad on the blower harness where this plugs in but I see some soot in there.
Once I removed this and tried wiggling it around, the blower comes on. Do I need to cut the harness and replace it with a new one or do I need to worry about the issue being traced somewhere else?
My girlfriend drives this car and she always has the A/C on either MAX or on the highest fan speed, I think that could be a culprit just from overuse. The other thing that comes to mind would be a wrong fuse or missing fuse somewhere, even though I checked the BLOWER fuse under the dash and under the hood and the relay. All of them are of the correct rating and do not look or smell burned out. (I'm not entirely positive on how to check/test relays)
Wiring Harness Socket that plugs into the blower : [URL] .....
Wiring Harness Socket on the blower : [URL] ....
View 4 Replies
2000 F150 4.6 i have an anti freeze smell and coming from my AC vents, stronger from Passenger side vents. I am losing some anti freeze from the reservoirs, where should i look for the leak?
View 7 Replies
I have a 97 4x4 that just recently stopped shifting into OD. I also noticed that I can no longer switch OD on or off on the end of the gear selector. The litle LED light does not turn on or off. Where to start? Just took it on the freeway and the engine sounded like it was working a little harder than normal to be at speed. Confirmed through gas mileage.....
View 14 Replies
1997 AWD 4.0L with 112k
Background : Last year van suddenly overheated (almost to red). Turned on front and rear heat full blast and drove home - about 5 miles. Tested thermostat in boiling water and found that it would not open.
Fix : Pressure-washed radiator fins. Flushed system with Prestone kit and cleaner. Replaced thermostat and temp sending sensors (gauge and ECU) with Autozone parts. Added 50/50 coolant and correct amount of Bar's leak. Temps returned to normal.
Problem : As outside temps warm, the van now consistently runs between "A" and "L" in "NORMAL" on the gauge. AC on/off makes no difference nor does sitting or highway speeds.
Initial Fix : Suspecting the non-OEM Autozone thermostat to be the cause, I replaced the thermostat with a 197 degree Motorcraft unit from the dealer. The van still runs at the same temp.
My Thoughts :
Fan Clutch - Unlikely. Resistance when turning by hand. No fluctuation between sitting and highway speeds implies airflow is adequate
Thermostat - Unlikely. New OEM unit.
Temp sending sensor for gauge - False high reading a possibility. May try to measure temp of radiator supply hose directly to see if it's accurate. May also try to measure sensor resistance to see if it's within specs.
Radiator - Likely? Older van, so scale may be causing blockage. Temps have increased with time. No fluctuation between sitting and highway speeds supports blockage. No issue when outside temps are colder also seem to support blockage theory.
Conclusion : Radiator is okay with winter temps, but reaches it's cooling capacity with summer temps.
View 13 Replies
Ok, I have a 98 F150 XLT, standard cab, 8 ft. bed, 2WD with limited slip - if any of that makes a difference.
The rear axle vent tube is literally blowing oil out the top, where it's loosely connected to the bed. It does this every few weeks. I pulled the hose and ran a rifle cleaning rod down it to make sure it wasn't plugged ... it wasn't.
It seems like it's building up pressure somewhere, then blowing all at once, but why?
View 13 Replies
My 1997 Aerostar's cruise control is not working. Horn is functional however. I've checked fuses and they seem to be ok. What could my problem be?
View 10 Replies
Where the fuel filter for a 1997 ford aerostar is located? I have been told it is under the driver side near the front tire. I cannot find it anywhere. Is it near the middle by the transmission? I would like to see a schematic also?
View 4 Replies
78,000 miles on odometer. The van starts and runs great. Always has. No change in performance since check engine light went on. Took it to local parts store here in California. They used to run codes here but can't any longer for the usual reasons. I replaced the EGR valve because I knew it was due and disconnected the battery and started the van. Light was off. Drove it a few times and it came back on again. Still runs fine though. I heard the Aerostar may kick a code off simply because it's due for a plug change. I think the plugs are original so I'm going to replace them. Plug wires too.
View 14 Replies
Lately my '97 Aerostar has required a lot of cranking to get started. Like...sometimes 15-20 seconds before it fires. If I get it started, drive somewhere, shut it down, and then a few minutes later try to start it, it starts right up.
-Interesting: I've discovered that I can start it if I crank it 15-20 seconds. But I can start it far quicker if I crank for about 5 seconds, stop, and then crank it again. Then it typically starts right up.
It has done this on rare occasion for the past few years, but lately it is becoming the Norm, so something is wrong.
Hmm. Leaking injector comes to mind, but the oil doesn't smell like gas.
What is the failure mode of the fuel pump, and do I really have to remove the drive shaft and drop the tank to change the fuel pump?
View 6 Replies
