Ford Aerostar :: 1996 - Transmission Slips - Clicking While Turning - 12 Mpg Mileage?
Mar 28, 2016
I just recently bought a 96 XLT 4WD Aerostar. It's got about 158,000 miles on it. It's got a few problems I wanted to ask about.
1. When I'm on the highway, once I reach about 82 or 83mph the transmission seems to slip into neutral. Does fine around the city and every other speed on the highway but once I pass 82mph it slips and revs really high. Could it be the torque converter?
2. Clicking while turning sharp and reversing while turning. I figure it probably needs new cv joints?
3. The gas mileage seems terrible. I still have my Ford Econoline 250 and that seems to be getting better gas mileage. What might cause the mpg to be as bad as 12mpg on the highway?
4. The speedometer goes nuts after about 40mph. Is that an easy fix?
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'96 Explorer 4.0l V6 4X4... 214,000 miles. So, I'm having some transmission slippage and was wondering what can be done about it. You see the mileage and the only thing done to the trans was a drain and filter/fluid replacement at 120,000 miles.
Here's what's going on... When cold, in the morning, I put it in drive, trans engages, I move maybe 20 feet and it disengages. I wait up to 20-30 seconds and it engages and slips right back out. I wait, engages, move 50 feet and it disengages. You get the picture. After doing this 4-5 times it will engage and I can drive a 100 miles with no problem. Seems like it need to build up pressure or warm up before it will drive normally. I've checked the fluid and it is at the correct level. I guess my question is, would I be wasting time and money to replace the filter and fluid again or is it just warn out?
I've read when a trans starts slipping after it's warmed up means it needs a rebuild and mine is the opposite.
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I have a V6 Automatic 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 94k miles on it. For the last two years my transmission has been slipping only when I make left turns. I have tried changing fluid and filters. The problem hasn't gotten worse but it is pretty dangerous as I cannot accelerate when I make a left turn. I was wondering if there is anything that could be causing this problem.
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Winter is over and summer is here. Will running with the AWD module unplugged increase fuel mileage? Will it do any harm to the drivetrain? (Assume matched tires, good alignment and suspension).
Signed, Looking to squeeze a buck anyway I can.
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04 F-150 2WD 5.4L AUTO Extended cab
I had my tranny rebuilt under warranty at about 70K and I'm now at 167K. When it was rebuilt (by Ford) it still had a slip feel when I picked it up. Rode the mechanic around the yard and he felt it. Dead stop and take off while turning. Like from a stop sign. He took it back and found a sensor/module/something that was the culprit. Seems I remember they found it with a computer? Is there a computer/reader that will diagnose a tranny?
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I have a 2002 Ford Escape 4x4Automatic with 97K on it. It has just started slipping in Drive. It will go in reverse just fine. If i put it into 2 or 1 it will take right off then I can move it into D but only with the OD off. If it is on the engine revs and you don't go anywhere. I have no lights flashing or bells going off. The fluid is clean and doesn't smell burned. Is my transmission toast? Is there a chance I can have it fixed cheaply or even do it myself?
Here are the symptoms once again.
Moves in Reverse.
Revs in D with OD on or off
Moves in 1 or 2 with OD on or off
When you get it moving you can put it into D with OD off and get 3rd gear. If OD is on It just revs.
When you come to a stop in D with the OD off and try to take off again it just revs. You have to use 1 or 2 to get moving again.
Will the car make it 300miles home so i can have it looked at?
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I have a '96 Dodge Ram 1500. The only way I can describe the problem is when I go around 75, it feels like it loses power for a split second, then recovers. It will do this repeatedly, until I slow down a bit, then it won't do it at all. But once I speed up it will do it again. My first thought was the distributor/cap.
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When my Excursion sits for a while, the transmission slips a lot at first till it builds up pressure. Is this a problem? It seem fine other than this.
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I have a 2008 Ford Lariat F150 with 53k miles. The transmission seems like it slips at times. Here's the scenario. When I take off from a standstill and going through the gears at a normal acceleration pace, say I momentarily lighten the acceleration pace then try to resume. At that point, the transmission seems to slip momentarily, then bumps back into the pull mode. It feels like there is slack in the drivetrain until it re-engages, or like the lockup torque converter momentarily releases until the computer has time to react to the accelerator positioner calling for more. One guy said the transmission is, at that point, between two gears... either trying to decide to downshift or to upshift, but you can feel the surge in rpm momentarily until it decides ... then bump and your off and running again. If I push the O/D button, it stops doing it. What I can do? Because the dealer can't seem to get it to act up when they test drive it. It does it fairly regularly on me though.
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I have a 1996 Ford Aerostar 3L. The Air Vents in the cabin are not flowing any air, whether on cold/hot/vent/defrost etc. I can hear it click on but no air flow. I used to have the same problems as some previous posts where the air would only flow in the dash or in the floor but now no air at all. Fuses are all good.
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I had a reputable repair shop briefly check out the cruise control on my Aerostar cargo van. They said it is not because of a vacuum leak. What is most likely the problem?
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What is the resistance value of a '96 starter diode? Basically mine is gone and the van will not start without one.
Starter relay cluster contains 3 [FOAB-14B192AA as listed on relay] [FOAZ 14N089 A part number to order from Ford] and 1 gray diode, in the frontmost slot and just plugs into two of the four slots, that looks like a big fuse.
What is the part number and where I could get this part, my dealer said it was dicontinued or tell me:
-the resistance value
-where a manual or schematic that would list the value is
-somewhere I could find this info
Or, could some with access test diode for its resistance value....
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I'm looking at a '96 Aerostar AWD with 109,000 miles. The seller says that the right from wheel will "chatter", or act like it's on a washboard road, and that a "clunky sound" came from it. He says that it's only happened a couple of times at highway speed, and that it's intermittent. He's taken it to a shop, and they couldn't find anything wrong, but it's happened since then.
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I got a CEL on my 96 4L EXT,130,000 mi. The guy that read it said it was lean mixture on bank 1. He also said a good start would be to pull the MAF and clean it and pull the EGR and clean and check it. I did that. While I was at it, I pulled the spark plugs, the IAC solenoid, purge solenoid. Going to also change the plug wires. Changed the O2 sensors 200 miles back.
I can't remember the code number. The items i have pulled and looked at seem to look OK. No plugging, if i connect a 12v source to the solenoids they react, if i pull vacuum on the EGR , the valve seat opens and closes. (Doesn't seal tight, but I wouldn't expect it to)
Question -----I pulled the DPF module mounted above but connected just below the EGR inlet pipe. How does this thing work? Is there a way to determine if it is faulty or not? It has two hoses in and a 3 prong connector on it.
FWIW---The best way I found to get the plug wires off was to push/pry "backwards" from the base of the boot, rather than pull for days until it comes off! Still a beast but a little faster I found.
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I took my 1996 Aerostar to get a coolant leak fixed. It had leaked down 4 litres+. I noticed the gauge was in the red. When I got my vehicle back from the shop the rear heater worked but the front heater didn't. I took it back and they flushed it out to get any air bubbles and now the front heater works and the rear heater doesn't work. Could it be the controls that are faulty. If so, is that very expensive. I'd rather have front heat then rear heat for defrost etc. Or could it be something else? It's odd that I get one or the other but not both.
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I need a piece of the orig body side molding or something close. Where I might find something that will work? I'm reconditioning all the rockers on my white van and I need a piece on the sliding door.
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I recently purchased a 96 4WD Aerostar off of eBay, from the USPS. It runs good, has no codes stored, gas mileage is what I expected, However, it makes and intermittent howling noise. Not usually around town, but almost always after a ride on the interstate. It seems to be coming from the air intake snorkle. This week my brother called a Ford tech he knows, who suggested it might be the "hooter hose" or the Idle Air Control. I've never heard of a "hooter hose" and can't find it on google. What's going on and steps to diagnose and correct this problem?
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My 2005 4.2 L transmission slips in overdrive but I turn off overdrive and it stops slipping instantly. What could be the reason for this does this require an entire trans rebuild or is it an easy fix.
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i have a 97 mountaineer v8 aod,for the last 2 winters transmission slips when cold out on the highway, only when temp outside gets 30 or colder, pull over let it run 5-10 min runs great at 65 for about 8-10 miles then same thing, I put new filters twice and new fluid,i have put over 40,000 miles on it since it started doing this, it doesn't do this in the summer...
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I have a 1987 ford ranger 4x4 2.9l v6 but my transmission slips out of gear and its auto im not sure why but ive been told im missing a over drive gear is this a possibility or what???
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I have a 2004 XLT supercrew 4x4 with about 150,000 miles with the 5.4 motor. I noticed that when entering an interstate at around 50-55 mph it feels like the tranny slips. There is a jerk, jerk, jerk than it stops, it doesn't do it at any other speeds and only getting on interstates. Runs fine in town. No lights on the dash or codes, fluid level is normal and clean. I did have a caliper sticking but it was replaced and it's still doing the jerk, jerk, jerk. Could it be U joints?
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