Ford Aerostar :: 1996 - Noise While Depressing Pedal - Brake Stuck?
Aug 7, 2006
96 Aerostar Cargo 6 cyln. Auto.
There is a noise coming from what sounds like the rear passenger side wheel. Also, when you put it in drive and release your foot from the brake the van stays still. You have to push the gas to get it moving, like the brake is holding it. If you are going very slow on a flat surface the van will eventually stop instead of idling forward.
I have removed the wheel, it does turn hard. Pulled the drum (was very hard to remove). Had to move adjuster to remove drum. Cleaned inside, inspected the brake shoes, put drum back on, etc. I am pretty sure that brake is causing resistance. How to resolve it?
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I have a 2011 4 door and I drive it VERY LITTLE... I have a company truck so the car sits most of the time but when I get in it to drive on the weekends or whatever, sometimes when I hit the brakes it feels like they stick while depressing the pedal. Its nothing unsafe feeling just annoying and it forces me to kinda slam on the brakes. it seems to go away after I drive it a while, I have been attributing it to sitting so much but wanted to double check.
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Just noticed this the other day, when depressing my GF's 2011 Accent's brake pedal it made a low hissing sound, it would go away when you took your foot off the pedal, you would never hear this with the radio on, but it was enough to make me think it could be a concern.
Drove the car and it didn't affect the brake permormance, but the longer this goes, I can't imagine this being a good thing.
Car is 3 years old, and has 80-20 city/hwy driving under it.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe w/ ~25,000km. Yesterday, I noticed that after depressing the brake pedal (while driving) i hear a wheezing noise and then a click right before i come to a complete stop. When i am stationary, and i depress the break pedal, i hear the clicking noise but no wheezing sound.
I just took it into service today and even drove around the lot with one of the service techs and he says its normal. That the clicking noise is coming from the shifter release. I don't believe i heard this sound when i bought it, nor any other time till yesterday. The sound is driving me crazy! This cant be normal .... can it?
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Looking for a fix for the annoying squeaking noise often happening when depressing the brake pedal?
Dealer "bled" the brake actuator...did not work, said I need new actuators for 2.5k.... 2007 LS 460L ....
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I just got a used low-milage 2013 LS460, and noticed that every time I tap the break pedal I hear a "clicking" sound coming from under the dash or hood. This seems to happen every time I touch or press on the brakes, at seemingly any speed. It sounds almost like an actuator of some kind... perhaps like the type which allows the transmission to shift out of park. Is this normal, or an indication of a an issue?
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Happens when I quickly let off gas pedal and engine spools down. Just curious, hopefully no big deal but though I would ask. No maintenance lights on either.
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I have Corolla 1.6 dual VVTi (year - 2009.), manual transmission, 1ZR engine, for about a year, ~50000miles on clock. About a month ago from a engine part it began to produce sound that can be heard on the accompanying recordings.
For these sounds is characteristic that:
- can be heard only while driving and depressing a gas pedal, its not heard when Im changing rmps while the car is stationary..
-only when engine is warm
-from about 1900rpm to 3000rpm.
-Toyota service is not useful, they fail to locate the source of the sound.
I submit sound recordings that I made by placing a microphone in the motor department.
[URL] ......
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Every time when lightly depressing the brake pedal there is a single click sound.
It doesn't not happen when releasing the pedal just when depressing it. It happens in all circumstances (i.e. with the car off, car on, stopped, moving, etc).
I thought it corresponded to the tail lights or the start button light because it happens right around when those lights turn on, but I was able to make it click without having either of those lights come on by depressing the pedal super slow.
I can't tell if its inside the car near the pedal or under the hood near the firewall... But it's right around that area. It seems louder at times then other times...usually quieter when car is moving (probably just drowned out by road noise)
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About two years ago I sold my 1994 Aero (transmission was going, and other stuff) and bought a 1997 that was in much better shape. But one flaw it has is that it was used somewhere with high corrosion, so a lot of stuff is stuck or rusty. I haven't changed the rear bulbs since I got it, but this week, 2 out of three bulbs went. Actually, I only noticed the 2nd one because the blinker went too, and started blinking fast. The 3rd Brake light on top might have been out a while already.
Anyway, to my frustration, I cannot open the 3rd Brake Light to change the bulbs. Even after I removed the 2 screws, the lens won't budge. I tried gentle prying, but I can hear the plastic starting to crack. I figure there are 2 possibilities.
a) It somehow got fused to the gasket over time. or
b) It was crazy-glued shut by some insane maniac (a long-shot?). In which case I can try Acetone.
For starters, once the screws are removed, does just the red lens come out, or does the black frame around it come out with it? I tried prying on both, but one of them is surely wrong. Worst case scenario is that I break it, and have to glue it back on or get another one from a junk yard. But that is not good... Meanwhile I am living ok with just 2 brake lights.
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I recently purchased a 96 4WD Aerostar off of eBay, from the USPS. It runs good, has no codes stored, gas mileage is what I expected, However, it makes and intermittent howling noise. Not usually around town, but almost always after a ride on the interstate. It seems to be coming from the air intake snorkle. This week my brother called a Ford tech he knows, who suggested it might be the "hooter hose" or the Idle Air Control. I've never heard of a "hooter hose" and can't find it on google. What's going on and steps to diagnose and correct this problem?
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I bought my girlfriend a 2000 Ford Focus with 150k Miles on it to drive for the summer in Oregon. The car is physically in great condition with no noticeable leaks on it. After a week or so of driving, my girlfriend complained that a couple of times she would be driving the car and while going up a hill "nothing would happen" sometimes when she punched the accelerator. I asked her if the engine revolutions were going up and if the engine made a "vroom" sound (to try to see if the transmission was slipping) and she said it did not.
On a long trip driving from Seattle to Portland, she was driving again and we were climbing a long hill and she suddenly complained that "nothing was happening" when she punched the accelerator. She panicked and pulled off to the side of the road quickly. There was no shaking or vibration. I did not hear the engine wind up when this happened... so I am assuming the tach was not going up when she depressed the gas pedal. I opened the hood and looked inside and seeing nothing obvious, I switched to the drivers' side. No codes were thrown. I drove the car up the rest of the hill and to a flat area and we let the car cool off for a few minutes. I drove the car for the next 75 miles to Portland without event. When we got to her grandparents house, I changed the spark plugs (which were pretty fouled up), and changed the fuel filter (which actually looked pretty new.) and it seemed to satisfy her for awhile. Being that I havent experienced the issue, I just assumed she is not used to driving a small hatchback with a fairly wimpy engine.
In the meantime I had the entire front end redone, control arms, etc and alignment because she had had a slight shake...which is unrelated here but i figured I'd mention it. So, the other night she calls me on the side of the road, slightly shaken. Her latest incident was as such: at the bottom of an on-ramp to the highway, she punched the accelerator and "nothing happened" when she hit the pedal. This time the check engine light briefly came on, and the "OIL" light came on. She was able to pull off to the side of the road somehow and then pull to an exit. She turned the car off and let it sit for 5 minutes.
Here's the weird part: She started it up and claims she put it in "Drive" and pressed the gas pedal and nothing happened and the car actually started creeping backwards. She hit the brake and turned the car off. She started the car and drove away 5 minutes later without incident and drove it 20 minutes home. She said her gas was very low when this happened, close to the gas light coming on.
She took the car to a reliable mechanic in seattle the next day, and they said there was no issues and they thought the car was actually in great shape. Unfortunately no codes were logged and no codes have been logged at all! My only other weird observation about the car is that the tach seems to fall kind of quickly after acceleration... almost comically compared to my volkswagen 1.8 which has a gentle rise and fall to it. It kind of bounces up and down but the ride is smooth. Random, but i figured i'd mention it
Should she just make sure to keep the gas level above low/empty?Should a fuel pressure check be on the docket? The previous owner claimed the timing belt only had 25k on it, but he could have been lying.
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2004 Ford Explorer Sports Trac.
Just recently when driving down any road, when I let go of the gas to slow down from any speed, there is a funny grinding noise coming from under the truck, the Speedo drops fast, but the RPM`s stays the same. Then at around 30-40 km/hr, it just stops. When I place it into 4x4, I don`t have the problem. Also, again just recently, when I put the truck into reverse, I get the same grinding noise from under the truck. I have to putt he truck into 4x4, and then I put it in reverse for it to work.
I don`t have the problem going into drive. Both problems don't happen all the time, it will go away for 2-3 days then ill have problems for a few days after. I Took the truck to the shop and they said its the tranny so I replaced with a brand new one thinking that is the problem, but After the Tranny was replaced its still making all the same noises. The grinding noise sounds like "ice in a grinder" or to that effect. I'm not sure whats wrong, and I'm getting frustrated at my truck.
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The truck in my sig. makes a clicking noise when it's in the park and I press the brake pedal down. The click is coming from somewhere up high in the steering column. It doesn't make the clicking noise in any other gear only in park. Might be normal but I don't remember hearing it before?
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I have a 96 voyager, it has been a great car for the last 10 years I've had it. My brake pedal goes down to the floor, it gives brake but I think barely and my brake light comes on. I have Bled it twice and changed the master cylinder , neither worked, I'm perplexed, my mechanic thinks it is the abs.
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1996 chevy s10 pickup with 96500 miles. Have been dealing with this problem for more than a year. Replaced master cylinder once, brake booster twice and the abs pump (cost more than the transmission). My new mechanic has bled the lines twice, replaced the master cylinder and brake booster and apbs pump and is now at a loss. The brake pedal will go down half way and stick with a loud vacuum leak 'whistle'. I can pry the pedal back up with my foot and then it will operate find for a few days...then whistle again. I love this truck, the engine is strong (new tranny 9 mos ago) and the body in great shape. I don't and can't afford to get rid of it yet.
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My 96 thunderbird had a rear caliper shot. I changed the caliper, the rotor, and the brake pads then bled all the brakes. The three I didn't touch bled perfectly when someone in the car pressed the brake, I let fluid flow, then tightened the nut. The wheel with all the new parts I get zero fluid out of. I removed the brake line completely and pumped the brakes and still no fluid. It has no pedal and three of the four brakes have been bled. My only guess is there is air in the line but why wouldn't any fluid come out if I continually pump the brake pedal with only that one line open?
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Sometimes my 96 Subaru Legacy will not turnover unless the brake pedal is pressed. Other times starts without my foot on the pedal. It seems to need the brake pedal addition more often if it has sat a couple hours or more without being started.
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So, I have had this weird incident happen a couple times. The first time it happened was probably a month or so after getting the car (2013 Sonata 2.0T Limited). I was parked on our driveway, and it's on an incline. I started it up, but the brake pedal was super hard to push down. Once the car started, everything felt fine, and other than a casual "Huh, that was weird." I didn't really think anything of it. Have been without incident for months.
Then today, it happened twice. Parked in the same spot, started the car fine this time, but I went to turn it around in the driveway and almost took out our shrubs because I went to brake and the pedal was stuck. Pushed down really hard and got the car to stop. Put it in park, and tested the pedal a couple times... everything was fine. Was nervous, but took the car anyways. Happened again in the afternoon. Got out of the store and thought I was going to be stranded in the parking lot because this time the pedal was stuck and at first I couldn't start the car. Luckily, it eased up when I pushed down hard and it started, then all was fine again.
I have done a little looking and saw vacuum booster and master cylinder mentioned for possibilities, though no one's experience that I have seen sounds just like mine, nor did I find any that are Sonata YF specific. I already got my switch recall taken care of, so this is something different. Only 7,000 miles on the car. Gonna bring it in to the dealer this week, but just wanted to crowd source opinions in case they can't replicate the problem. I hate feeling like I can't trust my vehicle... especially when it's almost brand new.
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My wife was driving the v this morning. While she was backing up in reverse from a parking space slowly , she felt that the brake pedal is stuck (very firm) while controlling the speed. The car then stops. She then switched to D to roll foward a bit and the brake was back to normal. Reverse again and it was fine too.
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Today I faced another problem i just try to start my car but, due the dead 12v battery it didn't start so i pressed the BRAKE PEDAL until it reach the bottom, again i tried to press but its not going to the bottom why was that, is it due to dead battery? And last time i called an automobile expertise to jump start my car. They check the voltage with a digital multi-meter and he said me if you jump start even you will get this problem again until u replace the new battery. but i said him it doesn't matter do a jump start and finally it was ok . Now again I faced the same problem and this time i am going to change the battery.
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