Ford Aerostar :: 1996 - Front Heater Not Working
Oct 7, 2015
I took my 1996 Aerostar to get a coolant leak fixed. It had leaked down 4 litres+. I noticed the gauge was in the red. When I got my vehicle back from the shop the rear heater worked but the front heater didn't. I took it back and they flushed it out to get any air bubbles and now the front heater works and the rear heater doesn't work. Could it be the controls that are faulty. If so, is that very expensive. I'd rather have front heat then rear heat for defrost etc. Or could it be something else? It's odd that I get one or the other but not both.
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I'm looking at a '96 Aerostar AWD with 109,000 miles. The seller says that the right from wheel will "chatter", or act like it's on a washboard road, and that a "clunky sound" came from it. He says that it's only happened a couple of times at highway speed, and that it's intermittent. He's taken it to a shop, and they couldn't find anything wrong, but it's happened since then.
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Recently bought a 2003 E350. The front heater/ac blower motor isn't working. I found the control switch melted and bought a new switch. Before installing it, I need to do some diagnostics. I checked the blower with a couple of jumpers ant it turns and blows. I think that leaves the blower motor resistor. Where it is on a 2003 E350? I also need to check the relay. I have a power distribution box at the front left under the hood. Is the relay there? The box is not labeled like my GM products. Which is the blower motor relay? Finally, which fuse controls the blower motor? I read it might be a 40 amp fuse. If so, that might narrow it down.
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Problem solved- update! Found a main vacuum line, (white one), broken right above where the oil filler tube is. I guess if the plenum door is not in the proper position, it screws with the fan? Works like a champ now even with 442,000 miles on this van! --- 1997 aerostar, 3.0. Doesn't matter what I'm using, vent, heater, or AC. When I have the fan switch "on", The fan will shut off, then turn back on whenever it feels like. I've tried turning the controls on and off in any and all ways, and still random fan goes on-off when it's turned on. Is there a sensor somewhere that could cause this? Or what?
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I just wanted to share with you all about a coolant leakage problem I had experienced for a couple of days.
It all started a few days ago when I noticed the temperature gauge needle, which I hardly ever look at, began fluctuating in the hot region. I thought "oh my god" what is wrong? I then stopped at the nearest gas station and added some, I mean a lot, of water. My initial thought was the coolant level was too low.
The following day, I noticed the belts were squealing a bit (at that time I thought it was another vehicle with loose belts, but NO... it was mine making the belt noise). At that time, I did not realize it was because the coolant was leaking onto the belt(s). But then when I made a stop at a location for a couple of minutes, I returned to my Aerostar and noticed a trail of coolant leaking from underneath the vehicle.
I thought "oh my god" the water pump is busted! I then took it to a local repair shop and inquired about the cost to replace the water pump.
But after I inspected the vehicle more thoroughly, I noticed some dryed out green colored stuff where the heater hose connects to the water pump. I then removed the heater hose from the water pump and discovered to my surprise a tiny hole had developed where the hose is expanded from 5/8 to 3/4 inches.
My plan to repair the problem is to purchase about 6" of 3/4" heater hose (to connect it to the water pump), and a Gates or Dorman plastic adapter reduction fitting that reduces it to 5/8", in order to plug it into the factory original old heater hose.
This is an emergency repair. While inspecting the heater hose, I discovered an electrical connection that goes no where.
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I have a 1996 Ford Aerostar 3L. The Air Vents in the cabin are not flowing any air, whether on cold/hot/vent/defrost etc. I can hear it click on but no air flow. I used to have the same problems as some previous posts where the air would only flow in the dash or in the floor but now no air at all. Fuses are all good.
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I had a reputable repair shop briefly check out the cruise control on my Aerostar cargo van. They said it is not because of a vacuum leak. What is most likely the problem?
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What is the resistance value of a '96 starter diode? Basically mine is gone and the van will not start without one.
Starter relay cluster contains 3 [FOAB-14B192AA as listed on relay] [FOAZ 14N089 A part number to order from Ford] and 1 gray diode, in the frontmost slot and just plugs into two of the four slots, that looks like a big fuse.
What is the part number and where I could get this part, my dealer said it was dicontinued or tell me:
-the resistance value
-where a manual or schematic that would list the value is
-somewhere I could find this info
Or, could some with access test diode for its resistance value....
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I got a CEL on my 96 4L EXT,130,000 mi. The guy that read it said it was lean mixture on bank 1. He also said a good start would be to pull the MAF and clean it and pull the EGR and clean and check it. I did that. While I was at it, I pulled the spark plugs, the IAC solenoid, purge solenoid. Going to also change the plug wires. Changed the O2 sensors 200 miles back.
I can't remember the code number. The items i have pulled and looked at seem to look OK. No plugging, if i connect a 12v source to the solenoids they react, if i pull vacuum on the EGR , the valve seat opens and closes. (Doesn't seal tight, but I wouldn't expect it to)
Question -----I pulled the DPF module mounted above but connected just below the EGR inlet pipe. How does this thing work? Is there a way to determine if it is faulty or not? It has two hoses in and a 3 prong connector on it.
FWIW---The best way I found to get the plug wires off was to push/pry "backwards" from the base of the boot, rather than pull for days until it comes off! Still a beast but a little faster I found.
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I need a piece of the orig body side molding or something close. Where I might find something that will work? I'm reconditioning all the rockers on my white van and I need a piece on the sliding door.
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I recently purchased a 96 4WD Aerostar off of eBay, from the USPS. It runs good, has no codes stored, gas mileage is what I expected, However, it makes and intermittent howling noise. Not usually around town, but almost always after a ride on the interstate. It seems to be coming from the air intake snorkle. This week my brother called a Ford tech he knows, who suggested it might be the "hooter hose" or the Idle Air Control. I've never heard of a "hooter hose" and can't find it on google. What's going on and steps to diagnose and correct this problem?
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I have a 1994 suburban1500 heater is not working in front or rear and in the front I have no control on the vents it only blows on the floor flashes if I try and change from floor to vents or defrost also blows air on floor while driving with the fan off so seems that the vent is stuck open the rear I have control on vent or floor just will not blow heat just outside temp air I had the same problem with a buick I had and never figured out the problem this is driving me crazy.
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I'm feeling a bit embarrassed posting my delima, but I have a minor coolant leak which seams to be coming from where the heater hoses connect to the water pump and as well to the thermostat nuckle thingy. I have replaced all of the hose fittings with SS band clamps.
A couple of weeks ago I replaced the water pump, thermostat, alternator, rad hoses, belts, coolant sensor, PS tension pulley. The water pump is now tight and sealed. Since then the temperature gauge has been continually fluctuating from Normal to near Cold.
I was wondering if I should have placed some type of sealant compound where the heater hoses connect to the water pump and also to the thermostat nuckle thingy.
Initially, I thought it may be residual trapped air in the coolant system. But after a week, it became apparent that the heater hoses were leaking at the engine, and at the water pump, connections.
What puzzles and torments me is why is the temperature gauge fluctuating so widely up and down? This is totally weird.
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Got an air bag code 41. Comes on and flashes the code a number of times, then goes off for the rest of the ride. It is a 96 Arerostar, XLT, 4LV6. From what I read it is a short someplace. Where are the crash sensors and how do you check them for "shorts"? I don't understand much about the whole system.
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I just recently bought a 96 XLT 4WD Aerostar. It's got about 158,000 miles on it. It's got a few problems I wanted to ask about.
1. When I'm on the highway, once I reach about 82 or 83mph the transmission seems to slip into neutral. Does fine around the city and every other speed on the highway but once I pass 82mph it slips and revs really high. Could it be the torque converter?
2. Clicking while turning sharp and reversing while turning. I figure it probably needs new cv joints?
3. The gas mileage seems terrible. I still have my Ford Econoline 250 and that seems to be getting better gas mileage. What might cause the mpg to be as bad as 12mpg on the highway?
4. The speedometer goes nuts after about 40mph. Is that an easy fix?
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96 Aerostar Cargo 6 cyln. Auto.
There is a noise coming from what sounds like the rear passenger side wheel. Also, when you put it in drive and release your foot from the brake the van stays still. You have to push the gas to get it moving, like the brake is holding it. If you are going very slow on a flat surface the van will eventually stop instead of idling forward.
I have removed the wheel, it does turn hard. Pulled the drum (was very hard to remove). Had to move adjuster to remove drum. Cleaned inside, inspected the brake shoes, put drum back on, etc. I am pretty sure that brake is causing resistance. How to resolve it?
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1996 Aero with electronic AWD. This is my fourth Aero, the greatest van ever built! This one has the electronic all wheel drive and I loved it last winter. I get the warning light on the dash at startup to blink twice and then every 30 seconds or so it blinks twice again. This continues until I shut the van down and restart. Sometimes I do this restart two or three times to get the warning light to stop blinking twice. What does this "two blinking" sequence mean? And why does it not happen every time instead of the random happening?
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My 96 4wd 4.0 Auto has a consistent misfire in the #6 cylinder. I've change out the plugs and wires and am considering changing the fuel injector for that cylinder. Looking it over last night, got me wondering if there is a way to change out the fuel injector without removing the upper intake manifold and the entire fuel rail. As you all know, these things are a beast to work on when the engine is in place. So, is it possible? Inquiring minds want to know (and don't want to spend an entire weekend changing out on fuel injector if there is an easier way )
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Having an intermittent strange sound coming from the fuel pump from its normal whine at start up to a gurgling sound almost like you are blowing back through the fuel line back into the tank. Going on a 300 mile trip, should I hold off?
Btw: it's a 1996 Aerostar 3.0L
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I've got a 96 Aero with 128k miles. It's AWD with the 4.0L. It's developed an annoying "stumble" on startup. The engine seems to misfire a bit and the car shakes. It goes away when I give it some gas and/or start driving. This started out being very occasional but eventually started happening at least once a day. It doesn't seem to happen with the engine very cold or very warm. It mostly happens when the engine is "lukewarm" (having sat for about an hour). So far, it hasn't died on me. I ran some fuel injector cleaner through and it went away for about a week, but then returned (but not as bad). No stored codes. Within the last 10k miles I have had done:
Compression test (passed) about 10k ago
New plugs, wires
New fuel pump
New water pump
New fuel filter
Tranny rebuild
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I've owned this vehicle since new and never overheated or had any major mechanical issues. It just hit 130,000 miles and recently completed a 1500 mile uneventful road trip running great.
The other day I noticed an excessive amount of steam/smoke coming from the exhaust while sitting at a stop light after recently starting the vehicle. Once the van was up to temperature the exhaust steam/smoke cleared up.
I checked the radiator level and found it was about a qt low, and did not seem to have any exhaust bubbling or fumes in the radiator.
Then, I pulled the dipstick and the freshly changed oil looked a bit cloudy (I got really nervous), I really can't say its milky colored because I can still see though the oil and see the cross hatches on the stick. But it doesn't look like new oil.
The engine seems to be running fine, no loss of power or missing. Starts and idles fine.
Talked with a mechanic friend and he immediately said blown head gasket or intake manifold was allowing water from one of the four corners where the gasket seals the water jacket, into a cylinder.
Since that first episode of excessive steam/smoke it hasn't reproduced the problem to that degree. It does start to steam out the exhaust after about 5 minutes of starting cold, but seems to dissipate after the engine warms.
The amount of smoke / steam in that first episode, I couldn't see the car behind me in the mirror ... I looked like a mosquito fogger.
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