Ford Aerostar :: 1996 4WD Makes Howling Noise
Jul 23, 2004
I recently purchased a 96 4WD Aerostar off of eBay, from the USPS. It runs good, has no codes stored, gas mileage is what I expected, However, it makes and intermittent howling noise. Not usually around town, but almost always after a ride on the interstate. It seems to be coming from the air intake snorkle. This week my brother called a Ford tech he knows, who suggested it might be the "hooter hose" or the Idle Air Control. I've never heard of a "hooter hose" and can't find it on google. What's going on and steps to diagnose and correct this problem?
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1993 Previa, all wheel drive makes a howling noise from the front end, all speeds, in or out of gear. Bearings have been checked for looseness and seem OK. Might it be the front trans axle or whatever mechanism they use up there? 220,000 miles.
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Ok, probably about 1/3 times i start my 96 f150 4.9 with true duals, the left pipe has a higher pitched howling noise, its a steady tone whether I rev the truck up or not it just gets louder. It will do it for about 6 seconds and then stop. The truck doesn't run badly because of it, but i took her to autozone to get her scanned and they said that the oxygen sensor on the first manifold bank has a slow response on startup. Is that what causes this strange noise, I don't even know how it would make it, it sounds much different from the engine. The right pipe doesn't do anything.
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96 Aerostar Cargo 6 cyln. Auto.
There is a noise coming from what sounds like the rear passenger side wheel. Also, when you put it in drive and release your foot from the brake the van stays still. You have to push the gas to get it moving, like the brake is holding it. If you are going very slow on a flat surface the van will eventually stop instead of idling forward.
I have removed the wheel, it does turn hard. Pulled the drum (was very hard to remove). Had to move adjuster to remove drum. Cleaned inside, inspected the brake shoes, put drum back on, etc. I am pretty sure that brake is causing resistance. How to resolve it?
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I have a 1996 bmw z3 and theres bunch of problems with itone the transmission makes makes a loud noise when switching gears usually first, also you press the gas and it takes couple seconds for the car to accelerate.also when foot is on the brake the car will surge forward or accelerate i was told by bmw that the value cover gasket needs to be replaced cause its leaking oil the air mass meter needs to be replaced i was told by one mechanic this could be why the transmission is having problems or it could be the transmission needs to be replaced ~ any truth to this that the air mass meter could be causing problems with the tranny?? also the os sensor needs to be replaced the check engine light is on....so my question is that could all of these problems be causing transmission issues. There are other problems as well including power issues with the battery, stalling mostly because i havent been driving it also the ac doesnt work but heat does.
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So i have a 1996 honda accord, i recently just got a new motor put in it. Its a used motor but a good one. I picked the car up from the shop yesterday, i drove it all day yesterday and today. It drives and sounds so much better than it did before. My husband goes to leave for work this evening and it wont start, it just makes a click noise when you turn the key, it wont even crank over. The battery is brand new and not used, the starter is brand new and not used, we just got both this year. It sounds like the clicking noise is coming from where the starter is, somewhere in that area. Could the starter have went bad on us? He checked all the cables and wires to see maybe if something is loose, everything seems to be in tact and tight.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 200k miles on it. It has been giving me trouble starting for a while and I was advised to replace my battery during my last oil change. The problem is when I try to start it does not start for a while. It makes a noise and tiisssssss and stop. tissssss and stop. But then third or fourth try, it works. I installed a new battery and I am still having the same problem. One cold day, it never started no matter how many times I tried. My roommate who is an aerospace engineering PhD candidate came out of the apartment with a teapot full of how water and poured it onto the terminals. For record, terminals are clean. When he did that, it worked.
What is wrong with car?
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I have a 1996 Ford Aerostar 3L. The Air Vents in the cabin are not flowing any air, whether on cold/hot/vent/defrost etc. I can hear it click on but no air flow. I used to have the same problems as some previous posts where the air would only flow in the dash or in the floor but now no air at all. Fuses are all good.
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I had a reputable repair shop briefly check out the cruise control on my Aerostar cargo van. They said it is not because of a vacuum leak. What is most likely the problem?
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What is the resistance value of a '96 starter diode? Basically mine is gone and the van will not start without one.
Starter relay cluster contains 3 [FOAB-14B192AA as listed on relay] [FOAZ 14N089 A part number to order from Ford] and 1 gray diode, in the frontmost slot and just plugs into two of the four slots, that looks like a big fuse.
What is the part number and where I could get this part, my dealer said it was dicontinued or tell me:
-the resistance value
-where a manual or schematic that would list the value is
-somewhere I could find this info
Or, could some with access test diode for its resistance value....
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I'm looking at a '96 Aerostar AWD with 109,000 miles. The seller says that the right from wheel will "chatter", or act like it's on a washboard road, and that a "clunky sound" came from it. He says that it's only happened a couple of times at highway speed, and that it's intermittent. He's taken it to a shop, and they couldn't find anything wrong, but it's happened since then.
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I got a CEL on my 96 4L EXT,130,000 mi. The guy that read it said it was lean mixture on bank 1. He also said a good start would be to pull the MAF and clean it and pull the EGR and clean and check it. I did that. While I was at it, I pulled the spark plugs, the IAC solenoid, purge solenoid. Going to also change the plug wires. Changed the O2 sensors 200 miles back.
I can't remember the code number. The items i have pulled and looked at seem to look OK. No plugging, if i connect a 12v source to the solenoids they react, if i pull vacuum on the EGR , the valve seat opens and closes. (Doesn't seal tight, but I wouldn't expect it to)
Question -----I pulled the DPF module mounted above but connected just below the EGR inlet pipe. How does this thing work? Is there a way to determine if it is faulty or not? It has two hoses in and a 3 prong connector on it.
FWIW---The best way I found to get the plug wires off was to push/pry "backwards" from the base of the boot, rather than pull for days until it comes off! Still a beast but a little faster I found.
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I took my 1996 Aerostar to get a coolant leak fixed. It had leaked down 4 litres+. I noticed the gauge was in the red. When I got my vehicle back from the shop the rear heater worked but the front heater didn't. I took it back and they flushed it out to get any air bubbles and now the front heater works and the rear heater doesn't work. Could it be the controls that are faulty. If so, is that very expensive. I'd rather have front heat then rear heat for defrost etc. Or could it be something else? It's odd that I get one or the other but not both.
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I need a piece of the orig body side molding or something close. Where I might find something that will work? I'm reconditioning all the rockers on my white van and I need a piece on the sliding door.
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Got an air bag code 41. Comes on and flashes the code a number of times, then goes off for the rest of the ride. It is a 96 Arerostar, XLT, 4LV6. From what I read it is a short someplace. Where are the crash sensors and how do you check them for "shorts"? I don't understand much about the whole system.
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I just recently bought a 96 XLT 4WD Aerostar. It's got about 158,000 miles on it. It's got a few problems I wanted to ask about.
1. When I'm on the highway, once I reach about 82 or 83mph the transmission seems to slip into neutral. Does fine around the city and every other speed on the highway but once I pass 82mph it slips and revs really high. Could it be the torque converter?
2. Clicking while turning sharp and reversing while turning. I figure it probably needs new cv joints?
3. The gas mileage seems terrible. I still have my Ford Econoline 250 and that seems to be getting better gas mileage. What might cause the mpg to be as bad as 12mpg on the highway?
4. The speedometer goes nuts after about 40mph. Is that an easy fix?
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1996 Aero with electronic AWD. This is my fourth Aero, the greatest van ever built! This one has the electronic all wheel drive and I loved it last winter. I get the warning light on the dash at startup to blink twice and then every 30 seconds or so it blinks twice again. This continues until I shut the van down and restart. Sometimes I do this restart two or three times to get the warning light to stop blinking twice. What does this "two blinking" sequence mean? And why does it not happen every time instead of the random happening?
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i have a 96 f150 xlt 6 cyc. with auto, about 4 months ago we drove 150 miles where the engine overheated and transmission fluid started pouring out from bottom where dust cover is. when got home i filled up transmission with fluid and been good ever since with no leaks. yesterday went 70 miles and did good going down but on way back same thing, engine overheats then out comes the transmission fluid. this morning i filled it up and ran the truck and no fluid leak, what is going on with that.
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My 96 4wd 4.0 Auto has a consistent misfire in the #6 cylinder. I've change out the plugs and wires and am considering changing the fuel injector for that cylinder. Looking it over last night, got me wondering if there is a way to change out the fuel injector without removing the upper intake manifold and the entire fuel rail. As you all know, these things are a beast to work on when the engine is in place. So, is it possible? Inquiring minds want to know (and don't want to spend an entire weekend changing out on fuel injector if there is an easier way )
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Having an intermittent strange sound coming from the fuel pump from its normal whine at start up to a gurgling sound almost like you are blowing back through the fuel line back into the tank. Going on a 300 mile trip, should I hold off?
Btw: it's a 1996 Aerostar 3.0L
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I've got a 96 Aero with 128k miles. It's AWD with the 4.0L. It's developed an annoying "stumble" on startup. The engine seems to misfire a bit and the car shakes. It goes away when I give it some gas and/or start driving. This started out being very occasional but eventually started happening at least once a day. It doesn't seem to happen with the engine very cold or very warm. It mostly happens when the engine is "lukewarm" (having sat for about an hour). So far, it hasn't died on me. I ran some fuel injector cleaner through and it went away for about a week, but then returned (but not as bad). No stored codes. Within the last 10k miles I have had done:
Compression test (passed) about 10k ago
New plugs, wires
New fuel pump
New water pump
New fuel filter
Tranny rebuild
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