Ford Aerostar :: 1996 3L - No Air Flow From Vents In The Cabin
Aug 13, 2011
I have a 1996 Ford Aerostar 3L. The Air Vents in the cabin are not flowing any air, whether on cold/hot/vent/defrost etc. I can hear it click on but no air flow. I used to have the same problems as some previous posts where the air would only flow in the dash or in the floor but now no air at all. Fuses are all good.
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My '96 4L developed the infamous P0401 insufficient EGR gas flow code 6 months ago. Rough running. Forgot to license it, now the St. Emissions Test was due before I could get new tabs issued. Finally got some warm dry weather to work on it. Started with the electrical measurements per DPFE graph of EGR flow vs electrical output to the PCM.
Showed the DPFE sensor failed, low V output max 2v. The old OEM aluminum body DPFE sensor was still in the old girl after 16 years. Corroded internally and ext., one hose nipple almost corroded off. Eureka. Put in a new Motorcraft plastic body upgrade. Same darn code.
Retested everything from the EGR vacuum valve that feeds the EGR valve to the new DPFE and then the EGR tube from the exhaust pipe. All tested ok electrically and leak wise. No fresh air leaks in the EGR V or EGR tube.
All pointed to restriction in EGR gas flow when PCM demanded it. Ran small stainless steel wire down the upper EGR tube line nipple to the EGR orifice trying to clear carbon build up, still the same P0401. Poured several cups of paint store acetone down each EGR tube hose with engine off and at 2k rpm to emulsify and dissolve the exhaust carbon out. Engine vacuum sucked the acetone up thru the EGR valve also cleaning it internally.
Let set overnight and took out for test drive. Still P0401. Almost ready to drive the green beast to the crusher of death.
Poured more acetone in the EGR and let set for 2 days prepared for the emissions station test failure then repair at emissions cert. shop with a shop waiver for no effective repair. Decided that the EGR tube or EGR valve were leaking fresh air, rusted and corroded. The end nuts on the tube were rusted away. EGR tube NLA from any source.
Went to the emissions test today and passed flying colors. NO P0401, drove all day on business. Got relicensed.
The old girl runs and drives like a dream, she's actually parked and sleeping in the garage tonight all pretty and shiny with a wash and wax job, got a reprieve from the Jaws of Death
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I have a 2005 F250 with an intermittent AC problem. I had noticed over the past year that I only had high or low fan when adjusting my AC. Recently my AC has intermittently just not started blowing any air when I turn it on. When this occurs, I can put the fan on high and hear the clutch engage, however no air flow comes from the vents. I did some searching around and didn't find an answer. I was curious, where I might be best to start troubleshooting.
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So, I've got a new toy (FORscan ODBII software) and a new code that isn't turning on the CEL (yet) but also didn't show up in OBDWiz either.
P1100 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Intermittent
I cleared it, drove a few miles, checked again and it's set again.
The little troubleshooting advise window in FORscan says to monitor the MAF voltage while wiggling the MAF harness and see if the voltage goes below 0.23v or above 4.60v. I was unable to manually make that occur, no matter how I tapped on the MAF or wiggled the wiring.
However, in oscilloscope mode, look at this (at idle):
It sure looks like it went below 0.23v here. I have no time tonight to do any research. This is a relatively new MAF (one week old, Delphi unit). I think I'll swap it out for one of my two old OEM MAFs sometime this week. But if any opinion about this, pipe up. I do damned little work with scanners these days, and the tech keeps changing.
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Is there something else hold the cabin hatch (doghouse) in place? I've unsnapped 3 latches but it still refuses to come loose.
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My 02 Mountaineer doesn't have any air flow volume out of the heat, defrost, or a/c vents. The temp will change from hot to cold and the air direction will also change from floor, dash, windshield, etc. The a/c recirculation door also seems to be working. The fan sounds as it is running very fast, just not putting out any volume. What should I look for?
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I can hear and see the blower motor running great. I just have very little air flow through the vents, defroster etc... is there a blower motor door between motor and vents. 2011 F750 xl superduty ....
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I've noticed a strange problem that makes it next to impossible for me to use his truck unless the vents are off or I have both windows all the way down with it on. It smells like it has a fuel leak of some sort and in the cab of the truck it smells bad while driving and gets worse when sitting still, to me it smells like gas and when I open the hood on his truck after idling about 5 minutes or so I can smell it in there so i know its somewhere under the hood but for the life of me I can't see anywhere where its leaking or anything like that but I can smell it all darn day. His truck is an 05 F-150 with a 5.4 and I'd like to figure this out before it becomes a real big problem. I've worked with fuel injected cars and trucks before but I have little knowledge of the mod engines at all. And he is still driving it like that and I just wanna make sure it either is not gas or is just something simple I'm overlooking.
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Just started happening this weekend, I can hear air moving and it changes speeds, however I get no flow out of the vents.
I'm at 42k so I'm hoping it isn't a major issue, also tried searching but couldn't find a similar issue. I am pressed for time because I'm leaving for a 2500 mile round trip Wednesday.
I'll add a photo of the controls where I get zero air flow, minus some cold air.
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Problem since new but now I am in cold climate. Seems like there is minimal air flow from vents even if I will set fan to max.. . Dealer does not believe. On the parking flow is present but during driving 70-80 just minimal. I hear the rumble of the fan but air does not come out. Temp setting may be set to 85 but temp inside the car is not above high 60's. I can only survive using heated seats.
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Noticed this, do I have a flaw? When I turn the AC or heater fan off and I'm driving I have constant air flow coming out the vents, super annoying....
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I have a 2003 Forester that has low air flow thru the vents if you try to use the AC or heater.
If you turn the speed from 1-4 you can hear the blower fan turning faster but the air coming out of the vents is very low. YOu can hardly feel it. I checked to see if there was a cabin filter and there was none.
Even though you can barely feel the air coming out, when on AC the air feels cold and when on heat it feels hot.
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I took my Prius Two to its first car wash today, afterwards, the air flow from the vents became minimal, almost non-existent. How could this be? The car is barely two months old. Prior to the car wash, I had the AC and air blasting to the highest, I didn't change any fan settings, and now there's barely any air coming out. I can hear the fans churning and running, but there's no air!!! Do I take it to the dealer?
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Have a 02 with climatronic. You put it on vent and it blows out the vent. You press floor and it goes ape and the fan goes to max and nothing comes out the vents and nothing comes out the floor. IF you put it on floor only there is flow like normal. You can not have it on floor and vent. I drove 2 other passats and they both allow floor and vent. Havent been able to check codes because car has been at dealer for a week.
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On my 2006 The air flow from the heater always comes from the dash vents no matter where the control is set. What is needed to correct this?
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I have a grand prix and am having problems with the air flow. I think that the diverter is stuck/broke as air flow blows through all vents (defroster, 4 dash vents and floor). When I turn the switch that tells where the air to blow out, nothing happens. In the summer, the A/C works but since it comes out the floor vent my toes get cold. Does this sound like the diverter is stuck? Is there a way I could make the diverter only come out the dash vents? The car has 180K miles and I don't want to invest much money to fix this (i.e. taking to dealer).
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Today the flow rate of the air out of the vents on my Prius has noticeably dropped.
It makes no different which vents I select (front, feet, or windscreen).
The blower seems fine - it's still making its normal noise.
The air still blows out nice and cold, there just isn't much of it coming out, even on full blast.
I've pulled the cabin air filter and checked it's not clogged, so it seems like there must be a blockage downstream of the blower.
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I had a reputable repair shop briefly check out the cruise control on my Aerostar cargo van. They said it is not because of a vacuum leak. What is most likely the problem?
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What is the resistance value of a '96 starter diode? Basically mine is gone and the van will not start without one.
Starter relay cluster contains 3 [FOAB-14B192AA as listed on relay] [FOAZ 14N089 A part number to order from Ford] and 1 gray diode, in the frontmost slot and just plugs into two of the four slots, that looks like a big fuse.
What is the part number and where I could get this part, my dealer said it was dicontinued or tell me:
-the resistance value
-where a manual or schematic that would list the value is
-somewhere I could find this info
Or, could some with access test diode for its resistance value....
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I'm looking at a '96 Aerostar AWD with 109,000 miles. The seller says that the right from wheel will "chatter", or act like it's on a washboard road, and that a "clunky sound" came from it. He says that it's only happened a couple of times at highway speed, and that it's intermittent. He's taken it to a shop, and they couldn't find anything wrong, but it's happened since then.
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I got a CEL on my 96 4L EXT,130,000 mi. The guy that read it said it was lean mixture on bank 1. He also said a good start would be to pull the MAF and clean it and pull the EGR and clean and check it. I did that. While I was at it, I pulled the spark plugs, the IAC solenoid, purge solenoid. Going to also change the plug wires. Changed the O2 sensors 200 miles back.
I can't remember the code number. The items i have pulled and looked at seem to look OK. No plugging, if i connect a 12v source to the solenoids they react, if i pull vacuum on the EGR , the valve seat opens and closes. (Doesn't seal tight, but I wouldn't expect it to)
Question -----I pulled the DPF module mounted above but connected just below the EGR inlet pipe. How does this thing work? Is there a way to determine if it is faulty or not? It has two hoses in and a 3 prong connector on it.
FWIW---The best way I found to get the plug wires off was to push/pry "backwards" from the base of the boot, rather than pull for days until it comes off! Still a beast but a little faster I found.
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