My dad and I are having allot of trouble getting our Aerostar to start up . It is getting fuel and spark , and it won't even run with starter fluid . It was running ruff before this . It is getting an all clear on the OBD codes . We took one spark plug out and it was pretty dirty , could that be our problem? Like I said we are getting spark , when we do a spark test . We are totally out of clues .
View 7 RepliesI removed all the spark plug wires for testing/cleaning and install new spark plugs, but stupidly forgot to mark the wires where they came off at the Coil Pack. yes, Now I cannot find a diagram for the Driver's Side wire positions at the Coil Pack.
(The Passenger side wires are 1-2-3, starting from the front of the engine, simple enough); The Coil pack itself has numbers stamped on it, so I have the Passenger side done correctly.
But the Driver's Side wires are not in a Sequence of 4-5-6, instead they are 4-6-5 (or something like that), and I can't remember their positions at the Coil Pack. Looking for a drawing showing the Driver's side Wires as they connect to the Coil pack?
Example:
Front Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (Front, Center, or Rear?)
Center Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (F, C, or R?)
Rear Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (F, C, or R?)
I recently changed the plugs on my 95 Aerostar 4.0L. I noticed the last service person did not replace with proper plugs. The van was missing occasionally.
The passenger side rear plug was rusty. I noticed a small loss of anti-freeze during the past year also. Could this be a lower intake gasket? Have not noticed any anti-freeze in the oil nor any exterior engine leaks.
I recently drove it for 150 miles. Sometimes after start it would miss, other times not. Looking for the type of diagnostic to be done.
I have a 1992 Aerostar with a 3.0L engine. For the past few weeks she intermittently didn't want to start but eventually always did. I replaced the fuel pump relay because she always have had problems with that. The relays are loose and get wet. Anyway, I thought i fixed it because I didn't have any problems for about 2 weeks. But one day didn't want to start again. She finally started and took her home.
Now, no matter what she wont start. I did some tests and there is gas been pumped but I don't have a spark. I put a new ignition coil and a new ignition module and still no spark. If im right, i only have 2 things left that could be the culprit, the profile ignition pickup, and/or the computer. Is there any other reason that could be the problem? I read online that in order to replace the PIP i have to take apart the distributor. Is this true?
1995 aero, 4.0 auto AWD. wouldn't start about a month ago and got parked. got around to working on it and it would start and run a couple seconds then just crank and crank, I tossed another edis module on it that i had with no change, tried it without the MAF plugged in, had consistent spark while cranking. fuel pump would prime just fine. after a while I was experimenting around and held the throttle WOT and got a couple coughs.
after a while of cranking and trying different stuff I had began to get a few backfires (and by this time i had the spout and the octane plug out) and I was actually trying to see if i could see backfires out the tail pipe cause i couldn't determine if they were intake or exhaust side, it finally started. it ran really rough and coughed and sputtered and backfired a few times, then after about 30 seconds it smoothed out and started idling like normal.
I took it for a drive and it ran normal, so i shut it off and reinstalled the spout and octane plug and took it for another drive and it ran better (assuming the ign advance is working, so it must not be in limp home mode)
When I first started I pulled codes 114 and 118, ACT sensor out of range and ECT voltage high (Note: when I got it started the gauge didn't show it as being very "warmed up" even though it idled about 30 minutes before I drove it about 10 miles). I am gonna let it cool for the night and see how it starts in the morning, then try pulling codes again...
I'm getting tired of the same problem about every 6 months. Plug #4 keeps going bad. Its been doing this for years. It starts with rough idle when first starting up that clears up quickly then eventually it leads to a misfire when accelerating. Every time this happens I replace plug #4 and its good to go. Just recently (roughly 6 months ago) did a full tune up and all new injectors. About a week or 2 ago it started its rough idle at start up and just the other day it started misfiring again. What would keep causing this??
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 Escape Limited 3.0l V6 AWD. Did a spark plug change at 115k miles for the first time per dealership recommendation. Got new plugs from dealership.
Was pretty cut and dry to replace. Did not check gap on plugs as was told they are not adjustable per dealership. Put pea sized amount of dialectric grease in the COPs and then fitted the plugs into several times with a little spin to coat evenly. Installed plugs to 11 ft.lbs. and reassembled all components without issue. Installed them one at a time so as to not mix up the coils.
I did break the 90-degree nylon quick disconnect for the fuel line that connects to the fuel supply manifold and had to purchase a new hose assembly. Reinstalled without issue.
Went to start up and engine cranks (hiccup sound) but does not turn over. The sound is weak and not a throaty crank like an engine should give. Check engine light flashes on dash and issues a frequent tone also.
Wondering what the issue is? Are they the wrong plugs? Improperly gapped? Possible the fuel line did not pressurize and there is no fuel getting to the plugs for ignition? Kind of stumped as it was a pretty cut-and-dry replacement (if such a thing is possible).
Last weekend my number 4 spark plug blew out while on the highway. The truck stayed on long enough for me to get off the highway and pull over before it died. I towed the truck home. Last night I repaired it with a helicoil and replace the spark plug and coil. Now the truck cranks but won't start. I noticed that my theft light flashes fast and doesn't stop after a few seconds or during cranking. I still haven't tested relays or fuses because it was late after the repair. I will be checking those tonight.
I will be reading and taking suggestions and posting my results tonight while I'm working on the truck. I will be checking the fuel pump and PCM relay tonight. I will also try 2 different keys and checking the Inertia switch on the fuel pump to see if that tripped. The truck is a 2001 F-150 Lariat Supercrew with 150k miles on it. 5.4 liter engine.
Recently replaced head on my 95 civic 1.6 Vtec, i had to replace the head gasket a few years ago so i know what to do. My problem now is that it will not start and has no spark to the plugs, i have new plugs, wires, rotor and cap, even tried a new distributor but took it back since it changed nothing. I pulled a plug wire, removed the plug and plugged it into the wire, turned the engine over and no spark.I've checked voltage to the distributor with ignition switch on and as far as i can tell it's getting voltage to the distributor. But when i try to crank it the engine turns over but will not start. It is getting gas, i took the fuel rail off with the injectors and checked for flow. I've taken timing cover off a couple of times to make sure all timing settings were as they should be. I even went ahead installed a new ignition switch which made no difference. Waste of time and money. I've checked several times to make sure all electrical connections are good. I really hope this turns out to be a simple fix but right now i'm at a loss. ECM maybe?
View 4 RepliesI somehow managed to kill my 04 Santa Fe 3.5 while doing the dreaded spark plug change and looking for pinpointing and rectifying the problem.
A quick rundown of the car... My mom bought her new in late 03, decided to get a BMW X3 a couple of years ago. I bought her with 65k miles. I just recently had the timing belt replaced by a reputable shop at 79k (yes I know I let it go too long.) I just hit 80k and decided it was also time to do the plugs as I had noticed a decrease in performance and gas mileage of late. Other than the recent dip in performance the car has been extremely reliable and has had no previous issues.
I researched as much as I could knowing that the 3.5 isn't the easiest engine to work on. I bought the recommended Champion plugs that came in the car from the factory as well as the oem Hyundai wires. I also replaced the plenum gasket.
I took my time replacing everything but despite my best efforts, I accidentally cracked the plastic on the radiator reaching over to the back bolts on the plenum. Other than that mishap, the only other issues was the #5 plug sticking which finally came loose after some begging and pleading to the car Gods. Unfortunately, my begging and pleading was enough for them to allow the car to start.
After reading a thread on here, I believe the problem is that I removed the TPS sensor to get to the bolts on the EGR valve, I know now that this was a big mistake. I checked and double checked every connector and can not find one that was missed or disconnected. The car would try to start but would not crank over. I was unable to get any OBD2 codes from my code scanner.
I decided to try a TB from a junkyard and swap it on to see if that was the issue. After swapping it on, the car started and ran like crap for about 15 seconds and stalled out. I was however able to pull some codes in this short time.
The codes I received are:
P0102: Mass Airflow Circuit Low Input.
P110 & P1172: ETS Improper Motor Current.
P1192: ETS Limp home - Target Follow Malfunction.
P2127: Throttle Pedal Position Sensor "E" Circuit. Accelerator Position Sensor 2 Voltage Too Low.
I'm not sure if these codes are left over from before I swapped out the TB or not. I reset the codes after I wrote them down and researched them to see if they reappeared but the car will not start again so I can't get the codes to reappear.
This van has the A4LD transmission. I know nothing about transmissions, so, when it wouldn't shift from 1st to 2nd, or, 2nd to third, I researched it on here and found a lot of bad reviews. I also found out that it was likely the modulator gone bad, and how to replace it. I replaced it, and although the new one was restricted and the old one wasn't, shifting was back to normal. So, I was thinking, that was easy enough, pretty good for the original tranny which has 297,623 miles on it, and hasn't been serviced since the first 1k!
Well, that lasted about 75 miles. Now it won't go forward or backward. Everything is still in place, no leaks, fluid level is full. I didn't change the fluid or do anything other than change the modulator. (My friend can't afford to service it properly. Now it may need replacing!) I have only seen problems shifting between gears and OD, TC lockup, etc., but, nothing about not moving at all. What might be the problem? Is the tranny history?
I just picked up Aerostar #6 and am in the process of transferring parts etc. Got this one cheap as it was badly abused and has issues. Big problem, the shifter takes a lot of wiggling etc to get out of park. Is the interlock easy to disable? If so how? Or would a good column from my 93 be an easy plug and play proposition?
View 1 Repliescan you replace the upper control arm bushings (pass side) with the arm still in the truck?
View 8 RepliesI have a '95 Aerostar where the two lights are always on. I'd like to pull the codes if i can. Does this year has the RABS or the RABS II module. Or is the diagnostic connector the same?
View 14 RepliesI was wondering how do i replace the outer tie rod on a 95 ford aerostar awd 4.0L. I have enough for the parts but not extra tools. Need a tutorial on how to do it?
View 6 RepliesWhen I hit the brakes hard like seating the brakes the Aero would stall....
View 12 RepliesMy mom's 95 shifter is slowly getting worse. Right now it's at the point where we have to hunt for gears just to put it into park or reverse or d/od. It's not stiff like the rest of ours, hers is all sloppy and loose. She says it's been doing this for a while, but i think it got worse when i pulled her cluster out to change the light bulbs. I say this because i couldn't get the needle cable un done, so i just let the cluster rest on it while i was changing the bulbs, which put a little bit of tension on it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 95 Aerostar that when in park it is hard to shift into reverse, drive etc. It is an automatic, 3.0 liter.
View 7 RepliesWhats the easiest procedure
View 3 RepliesSymptoms: (162K miles, last tune up about 70K miles ago) rough idle, and poor acceleration. Occasionally, the car really jerks while accelerating. I read about new plugs/wires, and something called seafoam. I think the highway patrol would pull me over as a gross polluter, but that too seems worth a try. Various sensors and hoses, I'm frankly overwhelmed. Where to start?
Something I learned today: My car was made in 10/95. Apparently, I can scan for trouble codes?!? How and where? Is it OBD I or II or something else? Dumb question: I can't even get the interior engine shroud off. I found three clamps, but it still hangs up near the top. What am I missing?
I have a 95 aerostar with the 4.0. After driving a while it wants to lose power. It only happens after the van has been running for a while, at least 2 hours or more. So of course I have mostly noticed it at higher speeds because I was on the interstate going a long distance when it happened most recently. But it has also happened at lower speeds, after the van had been running/driving for about 4 hours. The van doesn't die right off. It is idling as the van slows down. So I can come to a stop, and the van is still running. I can get out and look at it sometimes, it eventually will cut off. Pushing the gas does nothing, other than perhaps encourage it to stall sooner. It is a complete loss of power but the engine remains running at an idle. If I wait 15 minutes it will go a couple more miles down the road. If I wait about an hour, I can get even further. Let it sit overnight and it seems like it will drive endlessly but not so.
If I try to restart it immediately, sometimes it will run/stutter for a moment. I can wait a few minutes and it will run for a minute then die. After repeated tries to get it to start and stay running it just won't, and then I just wait patiently for an extended amount of time (30 minutes or more). Also on a couple of occasions the exhaust has smelled very rich, and sometimes was black. All of this has been in the last couple of days and 600 miles. It isn't throwing any codes.