Ford Aerostar :: 1995 - Sloppy And Loose Shifter?
Oct 14, 2009
My mom's 95 shifter is slowly getting worse. Right now it's at the point where we have to hunt for gears just to put it into park or reverse or d/od. It's not stiff like the rest of ours, hers is all sloppy and loose. She says it's been doing this for a while, but i think it got worse when i pulled her cluster out to change the light bulbs. I say this because i couldn't get the needle cable un done, so i just let the cluster rest on it while i was changing the bulbs, which put a little bit of tension on it.
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I have an '86 Aerostar with the 2.3 four and 5-speed stick. The shifter is sloppy, and it's often hard to find 4th when downshifting from 5th, and sometimes, it shifts hard through all the gears. Other times, it works fine. The manual says that this shifter was used from 86 to 89 only. Did they use the same one on Rangers? Can I buy a rebuild kit? Or, is this a sign of some other problem such as the clutch slave cylinder?
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98 f150 4x4 5.4... So i purchased this truck about 3 months ago and now I am having problems putting it in Park. The column shifter is very loose and sloppy. Is there any way to rebuild this?
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Key has been "loose" for some time. Would sometimes be able to remove it with engine running. Earlier today I could not return the key to shut off to stop the engine. Pulled a fuse to shut down the engine and then disconnected the battery. With the battery connection restored, the key will return to start and crank, but only will spin towards shut off and will no longer de-energize. Is this a cylinder replacement fix? Tried a very seldom used key to no avail.
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I've been experiencing the ever so popular sloppy shifter lever in my 02 excursion. So naturally I started prowling around the site looking for answers to my issues. I have ensured both of the torx bolts are present and tight at the end of the shift tube on the bracket that connects to the shifter cable and have replaced the shift tube (It was worn out) and it worked great but has not completely fixed the issue so today I crawled underneath the truck to try and adjust the shift cable and have found that the detent in the shift linkage from the gear position sensor that runs to the shift mechanism (not sure what it's called) that is inside the transmission is really nonexistent, it is effortless to move it from P to R but from R to N is good and stiff like it should be but from N to D and D to 2 is effortless. I have zero experience with what creates the detent inside of the transmission and looking for a link or pictures or write up something that I can look over and attempt to educate myself on before I dive in to this blind....
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Having trouble with shifter not going into park. The linkage is sloppy. Is there a bushing kit or something to tighten up the linkage?
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I have my GTi, a week ago I broke an axle. I was then convinced by friends the clutch went out. So I said screw it and bought a Southbend Stage 2 Daily. When I get it I go to install it, then find out I have a Broken half shaft. So after taking the tranny out to install the clutch anyways and everything goes alright for the most part. (250k miles so that's why I never returned new clutch)
SO I get everything together. Tires spins. Car goes all is good.
Clutch is super spongy as I need to bleed it. But my problem is the shifter knob is super sloppy. Feels like is a whole section lower. It's hard to engage second as I have to double tap it in with a good throw. Everything is right on the shift tower. And seems like it clicks right into all the gears. But the physical knob feels super sloppy and out of place. First, third and 5th are all super far up and seems like it double clicks after putting it into gear. Like if there was a gear above. Kinda weird to explain. I've done the home alignment on the tower and nob, but only have a bolt that was 4.71 mm. So the cables should be really close to being aligned right. But I can't grab second at high Rpms.
I also need to do my drain and fill. So would it be a drain and fill and clutch bleeding will fix my sloppy shifter? Before I did everything it was tight. Felt right.
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My R is almost at 70k miles and the front end feels sloppy and loose. What is the best option to restore that new car feel or even get it handling better than stock? I already have United Motorsport strut mounts which definitely improved the handling. ECS has some suspension refresh kits (links below), but the question is which one should I go with? Would the Stage 1 kit with OEM replacements be enough? Or should I go with the Stage 3 with Powerflex bushings? I'm always down for upgrading rather than simply replacing. I'm sure that would get it handling real nice, but would definitely create a stiffer ride, right?
Stage 1 - [URL] ...
Stage 2 - [URL] ...
Stage 2+ - [URL] ...
Stage 3 - [URL] ...
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For the past month or so my car is very twitchy and wanders a lot. The steering is so loose that it feels flimsy and sloppy. The front wheels grab every little rut and grooves in the road and pull my car left or right. I have to keep my hands on the steering all the time. I switched out my regular Lexus wheels/tires for my winter wheels/tires and the problem is still there so its not anything to do with the tires.
The car does not feel heavy or planted anymore. The steering feel is like an old Lexus ES from 10 years ago to be exact. At this moment I feel nervous driving the car. Never felt this way ever before.
I had my alignment done last year but haven't hit any potholes or anything. But this feeling feels like the steering pump leak, loose tie-rods, etc. I am not sure. Either way its unacceptable for a 2 year and 10 month old car with only 36k miles.
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I just drove a car I'm looking to buy and the steering wheel was pretty loose. Not jerky, just sloppy.
I can tell it needs an alignment, but what could I be looking at in order to tighten it up?
I've learned that front ends can get pricey pretty quick.
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I went to put the van in park, and the gear shifter just went all floppy in my hand. I was able to wiggle/jostle it around and get it into neutral or drive, but nothing else. Tow truck driver crawled under the van, and put it into drive for me, and told me it was probably just going to need a new cable or link shaft (tube shaped thing)... My hubby usually fixes these things, but is now living 1700 miles away.
Anyway, the shop called me and said I needed a new steering column, and said something about the 'lower' cap or half??? He quoted me $340 for the job. I am not getting the connection between the gear shifter being loose/floppy and the steering column needing to be replaced? Is this right?
It is a 1993 Aerostar, 3.0 by the way...
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I drove our 95 3.0l aero to work today, I was going to a job 45 miles away. It sounded like it was revving awfully high for 65-70mph, but the gear selecter said od, so I figured I was just crazy. Got to the job and tried to back up and the shifter wouldn't go into reverse. Parked for the day after realizing the shifter would go N and down, but not into rev or park. Apparently it was revving high, as the gear indicator was now off and I was no doubt in drive, driving to work. I got it home, then had to drop my daughter at work, by staying in OD.
Then on the way home the van just DIES while going 35+- mph. Won't restart, smelled gas after many many attempts to start. Towed home. NO spark. I have 12+ volts at+coil. I tried my ignition module and a new one, neither sparked at the coil wire. I bought a new coil, then checked resistance at + &-, and - and coil output post. Basically same resistance new & old coil. Did my hall effects or cam, or crank sensor just go out or? Why both problems same day? I thought if it was the coil or ignition module, maybe it got too warm on drive revving high. Does a 95 3.0 coil get triggered by the distrib haal effects or does the crank sensor do it?
I can easily see one of those being bad as they are original, with 334,000+ miles. All the tune up, coil, wires, plugs, ign module, cap, rotor, were replaced 55,000 miles ago. ALSO does this distrib have a TFI module on it? My book says to pull the distrib and remove it, like my 5.0l Mustang, but I don't see one, I think thats the ignition module on the pass. inner fender. I'd like to see if I can get 400,000 miles out of it.
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Okay, so I am not really sure where to post this. I have one of the weird 1999 F-250s that aren't a SD. The shifter is pretty loose, about 4-5 inches of play while in gear. Shifting isn't a problem, just the play in the shifter that I worry about. I have been trying to find rebuild kits, but can only find stuff for Rangers/Mazdas.
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I got this code and symptoms of 1-2 hard shift and no torque converter lockup. No flashing overdrive light on shifter. If I switch off engine all shifts are smooth until I pass 45mph. I would feel the TCC lockup. This doesn't happen the as i come to a stop I get a harsh 2-1 shift. Key off restart then shifts smoothly up and down provided I dont exceed the TCC lockup speed. This leads me to the TCC solenoid I think. Fluid has been changed regularly.
Had to drive 300 miles to get home. Only for the plate trans cooler the fluid would have overheated as on inclines on cruise control the engine would rev to 3k to keep the speed at 70mph and I could see the fluid temp increasing. Fuel consumption was very bad almost a full tank (with no ac). Doing some research there is talk about valve gasket blowout Epc solenoids etc, though these were for Rangers and Explorers, no real mention of Aerostar.
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1985 ranger 2.3L TK5 tranny. Shifter was really loose and the tranny finally got stuck in reverse. I have opened up the bottom cover, but am not sure where to move the shift forks to get it back to neutral. I bought a new shifter, but I need to get the tranny back to neutral before I can install it.
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I was wondering if brake vibration and shudder (all the way up to the steering wheel) could be caused by some loose joints and bushings in the front end suspension (like ball joints, tie-rods, etcetera).
Is it normal to grab a hold of the outer tie-rod end and to be able to twist it a bit? I have a vibration problem when braking, but I am thinking it has nothing to do with the brakes. I am thinking it is something abnormally loose on the front-end suspension.
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Catfish is a '96 4wd extended doggie RV, with 175k. It has developed transmission selector problems in the last few weeks.
The shift selector stops seem to be going soft. It's not to bad going from P to OD, but I have to fiddle with the lever almost every time I put it into reverse.
Particularly harrowing when trying to do a quick turn around in traffic. What's going on here and what I need to do to fix it.
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This van has the A4LD transmission. I know nothing about transmissions, so, when it wouldn't shift from 1st to 2nd, or, 2nd to third, I researched it on here and found a lot of bad reviews. I also found out that it was likely the modulator gone bad, and how to replace it. I replaced it, and although the new one was restricted and the old one wasn't, shifting was back to normal. So, I was thinking, that was easy enough, pretty good for the original tranny which has 297,623 miles on it, and hasn't been serviced since the first 1k!
Well, that lasted about 75 miles. Now it won't go forward or backward. Everything is still in place, no leaks, fluid level is full. I didn't change the fluid or do anything other than change the modulator. (My friend can't afford to service it properly. Now it may need replacing!) I have only seen problems shifting between gears and OD, TC lockup, etc., but, nothing about not moving at all. What might be the problem? Is the tranny history?
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1999 F-350 . My shifter lever is extremely loose, it will not go into park at all. I tightened the two torx bolts, adjusted the needle but its still bad. Im thinking the cable is loose, I saw that there is a small rod attached to the end. Is there a way to tighten it or do I need a new cable assy.?
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I have a 1995 ford mustang with a 3.8 v6, and have recently discovered an electrical problem. First I thought it was just the headlight switch. We replaced it, but looking at the old one, we found that it had gotten so hot, it melted all the plastic off the wires, and that this caused the switch to burn out. I replaced the old one with a new one but it still gets super hot. I'm afraid to drive my car at night for the reason that my lights might fail me in the dark.
Another problem, I'm unsure if they are associated, but it did appear around the same time I replaced the headlight switch. When my car is running, it is impossible to shift it from the park. The button on the shifter (its an automatic transmission) refuses to give, and the result is that my car can only be shifted into gear by turning the key to turn on the ignition position while pressing in the button on the shifter, and then starting my car and driving off. Another thing that i'm sure is associated with this problem is that the cruise control will not be turned off by the brake. It will disengage the cruise when braking but re-engages after my foot leaves the brake. These last two problems began at the same time.
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I just picked up Aerostar #6 and am in the process of transferring parts etc. Got this one cheap as it was badly abused and has issues. Big problem, the shifter takes a lot of wiggling etc to get out of park. Is the interlock easy to disable? If so how? Or would a good column from my 93 be an easy plug and play proposition?
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