I have a 1995 aero with 4 wheel drive and a 4 liter. Lent it out and the engine was run without coolant. Pretty sure the head gaskets are blown. I found a replacement 4 liter from a 92 explorer and wondered if it would swap in. Will the bolt pattern match, computer, mounts,etc?
View 5 RepliesIf you have a blown head gasket on a 6.0, after the gaskets were removed would you be able to tell where the gasket failed?
Since the gaskets are metal or multilayer metal in some cases would you be unable to tell where the gasket failed or would it always be visible?
Just bought a 2005 F250 PSD, got a smoking deal on it. It has 321k miles and has been very well taken care of however I do believe that it either needs a new oil cooler or has bad head gaskets. Pictured below you will see what the coolant looked like when I let the first batch lose. It does not seem foamy, which is interesting to me, however there is NO EGR to cause this soot.
About the truck:
- It was bulletproofed at 50k miles (EGR delete, ARP head studs, etc).
- There is no puking of coolant (drove it 100 miles from where I purchased it and nothing)
- When the truck is started you have to let it warm up for about 10 minutes,otherwise it seems to not have full power. (was going to reflash the ECU in hopes this repaired that problem).
Well I was afraid this was going to happen. About a two years ago, several months after I replaced the heads on the van that at the time was my brothers, the ignored a squeaking pulley. One day that pulley seized and broke the belt. My brother was not watching the gauges closely, and didn't realize anything was wrong other than the clunk noise that happened when the belt was thrown. That was until he went to turn, and the power steering was gone. He looked at the gauges at that point, and the heat was pegged out on the gauge. So he pulled it over and shut it down. I came and towed him to a shop where it could be fixed.
But I fully understand that when an engine gets overheated, especially if the heat build up was rapid, the heads warp. I also understand that the head gasket will usually seal anyway, so the failure does not often happen at the time of the overheat.
Well, it finally let go the other day. Started noticing a rough idle and an obvious misfire. Removed the cap and there is a steady stream of small bubbles when the engine is running. There is also more corrosion than should be in the cooling system for how recently the coolant was replaced.
It is not overheating right now, but isn't this a lovely time for a major problem to occur. Anyway, I took it in, and hopefully they will have it finished before I need it again. My van performs truck roles, including towing and all of my fathers trucks are either too small or on deaths door. I'm sure it would drive most of you nuts anyway, but do not ignore squeaking pulleys.
I have a 2002 Chevy Impala, 3.4 engine. Mileage is at about 235k. About a month ago I had to replace the radiator because the car was overheating. Not even a week later, the low coolant light was on (even after I filled the reservoir) and the car was once again getting really close to overheating. I took it back to the mechanic who replaced the radiator. He checked and said the head gaskets were bad. He showed me where they were cracked/torn and showed me that I had coolant mixing with my oil. I haven't had the money to fix it, so since then the car has been sitting in my garage.
I have drove it maybe 5-8 times though (to the grocery store down the street, etc.) Should I even invest anymore into this car, considering the age, mileage and problems (fyi, the car was in an accident so there's some body damage to the hood, front fender, the a/c isn't working)? Would replacing the gaskets or buying a used engine be a smart move? Or is it better to purchase another car? I only have about 3k to go towards another car, so I'm kind of afraid I'll get another one and it will have the same (or worse) problems.
A local mechanic tells me I have a blown head gasket on my 2003 Saab 9-5. He also said there's coolant standing in one cylinder. If this is due to stretched head bolts, might I remedy the problem by replacing the head bolts and torqueing to specifications?
View 4 RepliesI just bought a used 5.4 for my 99' F150 4X4. My current engine has a blown head gasket. Anyway, I was able to hear the engine run before I bought it, and was able to check it out some. (oil, anti-freeze) I was told that this engine was bought from a salvage yard with 50K, and 50K more put on it before I bought it.
I was also told that the intake manifold is newer, from Autozone, and it has newer Accell coils. My question for you all, is ..... What do YOU think I should do otherwise before I install this engine. Oil pump? water pump? seals? ...
I have a 1999 Ford Expedition. A couple of days ago The engine started losing coolant as soon as the engine cooled. I replaced the coolant only to lose it again when the engine cooled. I was told that it is more likely the intake manifold gaskets leaking. It seems they are right. What is the cost to repair if I take it to a mechanic?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 f150 with the 5.0l motor. I had to replace the head gaskets and I am putting it back together and I am wondering if I will need a special tool to align the cam gears/camshaft/timing chain. to get this back together. I can't seem to find a thread or an article to guide me through the process.
View 2 RepliesI just had headgaskets (oem) studs, egr delete,oil cooler done on my 06 plus water pump cause the gasket blew. I have a sct livewire hooked up monitoring everything and tonight i noticed that the eot and ect's were way off. fully warmed up and rolling 65 Anywhere from 40*-50* out it was eot-156 and ect-172. Degas bottle was at the normal level.
I am also having issues with the fuel gauge. Every now and then the gauge will go to E and the miles to E will display ---. Turn the truck off and back on it works again. I am half assuming its the plug on the sending unit or the sending unit itself.
I just pulled the cab and did headgaskets, studs. I put everything back together and when I turn the key, nothing, no lights, zero.
I've checked all connections and batteries are good, checked all fuses, where to start with this?
So I am just wrapping up getting my head gaskets done for the second time. Last time was 7 yrs ago. Truck now has 90K mi on it and I have had nothing but Matt's tunes on it since the head gaskets were done originally. I have only towed once and I put the 8K tow tune on for that trip.
ARP studs were used but heads were not decked then. OEM gaskets, done by Ford.
So a head gasket failures with ARP studs and doing everything else the FTE way?
New heads are decked and o-ringed. Planning to go a little more gentle with the tuning, but don't really want to. Driving it stock just sucks.
Ran fine, did the head gaskets ,egr delete, oil cooler and 12mm dummy plugs. Primed the fuel system, oil pressure looks good on the guage , spins fine but doesn't seem to be making any attempt at starting . Gave it a shot of quick start and it never so much as kicked. Everything looks good, nothing leaking and nothing obvious. To top it off we are without power after Hurricane Mathew left his mark.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 6.0 that i did head gaskets on about a year ago. While I was in there I put some new pistons a valves in as well. I finished doing the job and it started and ran great just smoking a little bit. Test drove it a couple of times and still seemed great but still smoking. (white smoke) about a week went by with me driving the truck then one day driving to work I parked it then all of a sudden the truck shut off like some one hit the key and wouldn't restart after that. Either doesn't work i put a ficm in it before the head gaskets went out. new HPOP before head gaskets. I get oil pressure in the dash but it takes a long time to build up. cranks like a dream but doesn't even try to fire.
View 14 RepliesCan the mechanic put back my motor even if he claims i wont start? He claims the head gaskets blew out but i dont understand how they blew out over 3 days when he had my car.
View 3 RepliesMileage 192k. Signs...stumbling/rough engine startup for first time of the day and anytime the engine sits for a few minutes before turning on again (battery charging/speed high enough for engine to start, etc).
2010 Prius engine start stumble - YouTube
Started out with no code, then check engine light started coming on. P0301, misfire cylinder #1. Sparkplugs were replaced, and coil pack for #1 switched with known good one. EGR tube also cleaned of carbon.
Stumbling/roughness has been getting worse, about an inch of coolant used per week of driving. No oil in the coolant, and no coolant in the oil (no milkshake or anything like that).
Dirty fuel injectors were suspected, but no improvement after using Techron. Finally, a boroscope was used to inspect the cylinders through the sparkplug holes, and a very slow leak was found in cylinder #1. Since liquid cannot be compressed, during the compression cycle significant misfiring occurs.
I have a 95 4wd f250 with a 351w my manifold gaskets are leaking I was wondering if when I that the time to remove the manifolds and probably be drilling and tapping should I go with headers if I should where can I get a very cheap set I'm on a budget...
View 1 RepliesMy car blew a head gasket in the fall. A friend replaced it and rebuilt the head. The head was taken to a machine shop, was not warped but was planed just a little. The engine was put back together but it continues to gunk up the radiator with yellow gunk. We put block sealer in and it today there is gunk in the over flow bottle again. This is a 1998 Honda Accord with only 103,000 miles on it when the gasket blew.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 F350 6.0 PowerStroke, and I just did the head bolts upgrade to the ARP studs, new EGR cooler and a new stock turbo. Looks like everything came out good, no left over parts or unplugged connectors, all new fluids and fuel filters and oil filter. Did the priming of fuel and oil, the turbo. When it was ready to turn it on, I turned the motor by jumping the starter to build some oil pressure.
Now I turn the key to turn on the truck, it turns with no issues, it sound good, but it will not turn on.
Checked my batteries, they are fully charged, checked fluids, ok, checked oil pressure as I'm cranking it, it looks good.
It still does not turn on.
So, I jumped it with my friends Excursion, after a couple of tries, it TURNED ON.
Let it run for about 3 minutes then turned it off. It sound good just like it did before the upgrade, with an exhaust leak from the turbo.
Went to turn it on again, it turns but it will not start, jumped it again and it RUNS.
Now I let it run for about 30 minutes figured out where the exhaust leak was coming from.
Shut it off, Re seated exhaust pipe with leak, WENT TO TURN IT ON AND IT WILL TURN BUT WILL NOT RUN.
So what checks I can perform to start eliminating possible issues.....
My Subaru Outback 2004 has 136,000 miles. Recently the check engine light came on and the mechanic diagnosed leaking head gaskets, cost to replace $2,000. Does it make sense to fix it or bite the bullet and get a new car?
View 3 RepliesI replaced the water pump on my 3.0 and now, 9 months later, there is a coolant leak from the front engine cover (timing chain cover). The leak has probably been there two months or so, but it was so small initially, it was difficult to locate. A google search seems to indicate that a leak from the timing cover is somewhat common on the 3.0.
When I was doing the job, I noticed that some of the water pump bolts also hold the front cover in place, which seems like a bad design because removing those bolts takes some of the compression off of the timing cover gasket. Now that I have this leak, I'm wondering if changing the water pump is related to the leak. And, yes, I did use thread sealant on the bolts as recommended in the genuine Ford shop manual.
So now, I'm curious. Noticed a leak from the timing cover relatively soon after replacing the water pump on 3.0?