Ford Aerostar :: 1994 - Loud Popping Noise Then Front Wheel On Driver Side Lock Up
Apr 25, 2013
What would cause the front wheel on drivers side to lock up if it isn't the brakes. have been hearing a loud popping noise for a while on drivers side especially when turning left. Today got really loud just driving and then a real loud grinding noise. Then a loud pop and front wheel locked up and skidded across highway til i came to a stop. What it could be or how can i at least get wheel to turn to get it on trailer...
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I have a 05 Prius. Developed a low hum noise some time ago. It now is so loud can't hear the radio. Sounds like a heavy agressive truck tire rolling down the road. When turning the steering wheel from right to left quickly, noise level changes. Does this sound like a bad wheel bearing and if so what am I looking at for repair costs?
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My drivers door lock quit working.all the others still respond to the drivers door switch.the motor works when on the bench.one of the wires has broken or lost connection. Where to check first?
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We have a 1999 Passat GLX 2.8 auto. I recently put on a new inner and outer tie rod as well as a lower forward control arm. The issue that we are experiencing is that when accelerating or braking hard there is a popping/clunking noise coming from the driver front area. When accelerating or braking normally/ smoothly it is fine. But, as I said accelerate or brake hard it will make a single pop or clunk and that is it, just once when braking hard or accelerating quickly.
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The drivers side power door lock is starting to go out. The lock is very sluggish and sometime does not activate. Two months ago I sprayed the mechanism with some lite oil, that worked for a little while. I could not see the power relay on the power lock there is not much room to see inside the door.
1992 4.0L Aerostar...
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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My 2005 Prius has 95k miles on it. I've been hearing a cluck-cluck-cluck noise from near the front driver side wheel. I had an independent mechanic test drive it, who said the wheel bearing needs replacement. Should I have it checked out by a Toyota dealer? They're so much more expensive, but are is it worth taking it to them?
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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OK car is 2010 Camry LE with about 48000 miles.
there is a LOUD squeaking noise coming from my drivers side wheel when driving. When I press the brakes then the noise goes away. I took the wheel off to duplicate the noise by turning the rotors but I couldn't. maybe I couldn't turn it fast enough though. Its not the brake/rotor shield either.
At first it was a slight squeak but now its getting really loud. embarrassing loud. Could the possible issues be calipers, brake shims, cv, axle?
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While in the locked position, the steering wheel was purposely jerked hard to disable the mechanism on a 1996 Ranger. Now the truck will not steer easily or smoothly and a popping noise is evident when turning. I'm not concerned about having the wheel lock, but would like to be able to return driveability to normal.
The same guy who caused this damage also damaged the ignition. No key is needed to turn the switch now.
I'm lost as to how the steering locking mechanism works and wondering if I need to tear apart the column or if maybe there is a locking pin accessible that needs to be removed to regain driveability.
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Recently I lowered my .:R pretty low on fk highsports.. well today i was backing off into my driveway.. When i turned my wheels to the right or to the the left the front driver wheel makes loud noise like tick tick tick.. when i put my wheels straight no noise at all.. It happens when i go forward or backwards turning my wheels to the right or left..
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Our 2002 Mountaineer with AWD started to have a clunk noise in the front driver side wheel area. It happens only when you take you foot off the gas between 30 and 65 MPH. If you slowly ease up off the gas no noise you have to totally remove your foot from the gas. It sounds like something needs grease or like a gear is a little loose. I have seen some post about noise but have not found one that happens in this situation.
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2002 Mountaineer, suddenly started making a loud clicking noise driver side front. Seldom in reverse. Struts and axle look good, nothing hanging down.
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Did some searching but didn't find anything on how to replace the driver's side front window glass. Someone decided they liked my GPS unit more than I did while I was at work. Smashed out my driver's side window and took it. Now to replace that window. I did manage to find a replacement window.
Pulled off the door panel and now I'm trying to install the glass. Anything I try though, I can't seem to get the glass back into the tracks. Does anything inside the door need to be removed before I can install the glass back into the tracks? Such as the window motor/regulator assembly? On the left side of the drivers door towards the bottom, there is also another small alignment track. Does this need to be removed as well?
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1998 Ford Windstar 3.0 van. After in town driving for for 1/2 hour or more, my passenger side front wheel begins to heat up severely (partially melted the hubcap). It also begins to "grab" as if the emergency brake is on. when it cools off, it seems to rolls normally. I am nearing not hearing any obvious bad bearing noises when it is cool.
It seems like an obvious bad wheel bearing issue, right? Before I take it in to a shop to replace the bearing and the hub, I want to explore if it could be a faulty caliper that might seize when it heats up.(something I can fix easily myself)
What can I look for to diagnose? When it is cool with the wheel removed I see no obvious issues with the brake pads/caliper, but that is not to say it doesn't act differently when super hot.
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Here's the deal. I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and I am getting a noise in the front drivers side wheel. The noise is not a grind or clunk, but its like a u-joint is rubbing inside an empty cylinder kind of. Anyways, it seems like it does it only with small bumps. I took off my oem hubs and re-installed them and the noise went away for about a week. Now I replaced them with manual locking hubs and the noise is back. One other thing I notice is if i put the switch to 4x4 the noise goes away. I checked all major components for the steering and suspension and nothing was loose. The front end is tight. Is there anything inside the axle that would cause this? I dont know what to check for anymore. Where else to check?
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I hit a curb in my 97 corolla now it's making a noise in the front driver side wheel well driving down the road, what it is?
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My front driver side wheel is making a clunk noise when I hit a bump. I replaced the wheel bearing hub assembly and discovered both axle seals were bad.
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Truck has 1800kms on her, pretty much brand new but there is an odd clicking noise on the front drivers side wheel when I adjust the steering from left to right and vice versa. Its quiet if I am going straight, but it sounds like there is a linkage loose. Its not too loud or noisy, but having problems with tierods/knuckle assy?
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My car is a 2000 Corolla CE I bought 2 months ago with 45k miles. It does not have ABS system.
Before I took the mechanic:When I brake, there would be a "clamping" noise from the drivers front wheel sometimes. It sounds like the caliper "clamping" noise. The brake cylinder would also click the first time (and maybe second) the pedal is pressed.
The mechanic replaced the both front calipers, put new brake pads, installed rear drums and shoes, and changed brake fluid.
The brake pedal is now high and when I brake....it does brake but it's not like "instant stopping power" like new brake pads. Is this normal? (maybe I have to break them in). Also, the master cylinder is still clicking (I pump the brakes since my car has no ABS)....it clicks the first 2 times I pump. Is that normal?
Edit:Since the repair, I drove it for the second time. This time the brakes brake more "instantly". The clicking of the master cylinder is still there however, could this be due to air in the hoses?
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Lowered my car yesterday. 23" FTG. I'm now hearing a clicking noise from my drivers side front wheel.. I mostly hear it when my foot is off the gas and I'm just coasting (usually at slower speed). Also, it gets louder (worse) and is accompanied by what sounds like a rubbing when I take turns.. Is it axle bind? Or should I be concerned?
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