Have a '93 Aerostar that had something roll up against inside sliding side door and must have nudged it out of alignment. Broke off outside door handle, took off inside panel and tried prying, pushing, kicking and pulling rods, handle, linkage and anything I could get at. Any way to get it open, so I can re-align the catch mechanism??? I have tried everything I could to "muscle it" open....
View 14 RepliesThe door handle isn't broken as far as I can tell, I just went to get in the car one day, put the key in the door lock, turned it to the right like I always do and the door wouldn't open. After trying a few times I went to the passenger side and got in, hit the unlock button to unlock all the doors and the driver door still wouldn't open. I took the trim piece off (the little piece that covers the door lock) the inside of the door and attempted to manually unlock the door by pulling the rod but to no avail.
What I should do next? It seems like I would have to have the door open to get whole inside door panel off so I'm not really sure what to do.
1st gen lumina .....
Yesterday went to fill up and the push feature on the fuel door would not open it. The door would pop out about 1/4 inch and would not release open even with a forceful tug. Played with it for some time pushing and couldn't get it to release. I actually left the gas station with no fuel. when I got home it worked fine so back to the gas station. Never had this Issue before and I go through fuel like its my job.
View 6 RepliesA couple of weeks ago our 2007 Odyssey started having door issues - driver's side sliding door would get about 85% closed (approx 6 inches from closed) then beep and reverse back open. Wife took it to the dealership and they said the rollers were dead and it would be $400 to repair them. Suggested we wait till it got bad. A week later on the cape, it got bad -- doors were getting really stuck, even in manual.
I replaced the roller assy on the door (the rollers were GONE!) and it now operates manually just fine now. I'm left with the following issues:- Door still won't close during automatic operation. Gets 80% closed then beeps and reverses closed.- Door doesn't open automatically during operation from the key FOB or the driver's control panel on the console. (I hear an actuator running when I press the buttons, just no obvious release). The door auto-opens fine from all other modes (inside lever, outside handle).
I've tried multiple "door reset" routines to no avail -- not sure if I have the correct "routine" for my '07 EX, or if something else is in play.
One of my Aerostar pet peeves is to do with the sliding door alignment, or should I say slight misalignment.
Some of the alignment problems can be attributed to worn out nylon roller bearings. Make sure the roller guide ways are clean of any foreign debris. When you car wash your Aero, make sure to also clean the interior roller guide way (open the sliding door and thoroughly clean around the area where the bottom sliding door wheel travels).
After 20 years of usage, the sliding door will eventually drop down and back a few millimeters. Some of the symptoms associated with this will be a sporadic loss of electrical contact with those that are outfitted with electrical door locks. Also, the sliding door may also require some manual assistance at back edge to open the door. It can become somewhat frustrating, and perhaps a little embarrassing when parked beside a newer vehicle outfitted with automatic door opening/closing mechanisms.
I am not sure if the elevation of the sliding door can be adjusted at the rear or in the middle, but I do know that the horizontal position of the sliding door can be adjusted to a certain degree. The vertical position can be only adjusted by a very tiny amount.
1) Remove all of screws on the sliding door interior panel, and as well as the torx screw on the open/close barbaric door handle.
2) The bottom panel, other than the screws, has 2 plastic/nylon semi-resuble flat headed holder fittings.
3) Remove the two interior rubber grommets at the rear edge of the door. This will reveal 3 adjustment bolts.
4) Loosen the bolts, then push the door a bit forward while holding the middle hinge. Don't push too much! Just a little.
5) Re-tighten the middle handle bolts, and subsequently re-adjust the striker bolt. This is a PITA to align properly.
We have a "new" 2010 F150 with factory sunroof & power sliding rear window. Well like the post title says, it'll open but not close.
I took apart the switch & cleaned the contacts - it all looks and fits together as it should. I went ahead and removed the cables controlling the window slider frame to close it. I'm guessing the motor is somewhere behind the back seats?
The door ejar light stays on, on my moms 02 passat. I checked the latch to see if it opens and closes all the way, the light is still on when the door is closed all the way (it sits flush with the rear door) and there is a small whistle once in a while when driving. and sometimes, she says, the luggage compartment light comes on like the trunk is open but its closed.
View 10 RepliesI have a 98 i just took it up on a trade. The sliding door on passengers side its automatic it wont open i hear something clicking but its not going. Other problem is the windshield wipers only work on high...
View 2 Replies2009 XLT.. rear drivers side door is locked and closed. Master lock button, remote button and keypad all function and make the manual lock rod go up and down as it should. Both the interior and exterior door handles move freely, as if the door were properly locked, but regardless of the lock position neither will open the door.
I dismantled the door from the inside as best I could and can see all cables and rods are intact down to the actuator mechanism. Pretty sure something inside the actuator is messed up, but how do I get the door open to get at the screws needed to remove the actuator?? If I need to pry the actuator apart, what am I looking for (or more acurately, feeling around for) to release the door latch??
So I was heading to the airport and needed gas and was in a bit of a hurry to get my flight. I pressed on the gas door as usual expecting it to pop open a bit it didn't! It only pressed in more but did not pop out. I started to panic as I was low on gas and did not have a lot of time to get my flight. I looked in the trunk for some type of emergency release but did not see anything.
I locked and unlocked my door a few times in the hopes it would release somehow but it did not change and I did not notice the usual click from the gas door area. Finally I was able to force the door open with my fingers and get gas. Now when closing the door again it does not sit flush but is sitting in a slightly open position. I'm scared to mess with it more in case it locks shut again and I can't get gas.
I'm shocked this part would stop working the car is only two years old, 2013 with luxury package.
New MY2013 SE w/Appearance Package purchased Oct. 2012. Earlier this year the fuel filler door would sometimes stick closed; progressively got worse to where it would not open. Replaced under warranty.
Now starting to stick again and I expect it to worsen. Going back in this week for a warranty replacement fuel filler door.
Could this a door open/close sensor? Where is it located?
View 4 RepliesThe front passenger car door just closed and wouldn't open from either side. It is not locked, and lock is functional. Nothing budges.
Husband uses this car as a rural mail delivery vehicle and drives it from the front passenger side. On the route today, it failed to open for him during the route -- very inconvenient to move all that mail to get in and out.
He needs to take the inside door panel off but doesn't see how with having the door open.
We have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited Edition. The problem started when the rear diver side door window stopped working. we took apart the door and saw that the cable was all twisted. We found the part at a junkyard and replaced it. Window worked. We closed the door and didn't think twice. A few hours later we tried to open the door and it's stuck. Both inside and outside handles move but nothing happens. The door won't open at all, what to do. We obviously can't get the door off without it opening. What may be causing this??
View 2 RepliesI just bought this truck,2013 f250 CC Lariat 4x4. The sliding rear windows opened and closed 1 time and has never done it again. I have read about the motor and cable setup breaking and needing to be replaced. I do not think that is the issue. I have also read that the channel the window runs in needs to be lubricated on a regular basis. I was going to try that first. What is the recommended lube for these window channels?
View 2 RepliesThe "door open" light is stuck on and the truck thinks one of them is open. I went around and slammed all the doors and it went off. Didn't think anything of it till we went on a road trip and now its stuck on. No door slamming is working. How to unstick the sensor wherever it is?
View 14 Replies2001 excursion 4'4 V10 XLT.
One or more of my door switches is stuck in open position. Door ajar light on and interior lights on.
Interior lights stay on for about 15 min than go off.
I have sprayed all 4 doors and both rear hatch lock assemblies several times with WD40 and electrical cleaner with no improvement.
When I open drivers door there is no key chime with key in cylinder. Could the hood switch cause this issue? How do I determine which door/doors is/are the offending crimimals?
I am thinking of purchasing a 2003 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 as my winter vehicle. The car only has 92,000 miles on it. I test drove it, and it seems to run great! The only issue (visibly) with the car is that the rear drivers side door is stuck. There is a dent below the door handle, and the door will not open from the inside of the car, or from the outside. The dent does not look major, and it seems to me that if I can get the door open, I could repair the latch/locking mechanism.
I don't want to buy the car if the only way to repair the door is to spend a ton of money at a body shop. Below are the pictures of the outside of the door. Hopefully the image links work.
I think it is the locking mechanism that is broken. The dent isn't causing the door to be stuck. The power door locks work, and I can manually lock/unlock the rear door. However, even when unlocked, the door will not open from inside or outside the vehicle. It's as though the door is "stuck" because the lock doesn't disengage.
My lid is "stuck" open. It looks like it is missing a part. Looking for a pic of the latch assembly or diagram if they get a chance?
View 5 RepliesMy driver door got stuck, couldn't open from the outside but could open from inside. I went and read a few forums and they told me to adjust the plastic lug that has a wire connected to it that is attached to the module. It might be tight so I had to loosen it a bit, In the process it fell inside the door and not only did it not fix the problem but I cant seem to find any other way to get inside to find it.
View 1 RepliesThe lock on the rear driver side door doesn't work, it stuck on lock position and it won't open with the remote. You can't even turn the lock by hand from inside. It's like it's jammed or something. The rear passenger door lock was broken a while ago, it was making a nasty noise but still working so I had it changed but this one just stopped working.
How am I gonna fix that. I was thinking in order to fix the lock, they have to remove the door panel first, and to remove the door panel the door should be open to get to the screws. Is it gonna be stock for ever ?