Ford Aerostar :: 1993 - Runs Great Except When Warmed Up
May 14, 2011
My Aerostar is a 93 extended EB with 4.0, AT, 212k mostly reliable miles, and blue and gold paint that has held up remarkably well. When started it runs great; smooth idle, easy revs, normal as can be. But when that third pip on the digital temp gauge hits Normal the van becomes possessed. The idle will randomly drop or surge or return to normal, the check engine light will come on for a few seconds then go off, all without pattern, just kinda crazy. Today I held it at 2k rpm, then it bogged down to like 800 rpm and lit the CEL, then it returned to 2k rpm and the light cleared, swung up to 2.5k, all while I hold the throttle steady. The light does not always come on when it bogs. I see no black smoke from the exhaust and it smells normal, but it was kinda windy today.
The check engine light is not lit otherwise so I assume no hard codes are stored. I think I found the code retrieval process for the OBDI but I have not done that yet. After reading a bit in this forum I thought to clean the MAP sensor, but I do not have security torx bits to remove it yet. As background a few years ago it had an oil leak from the top rear which I ignored, and it slowly rotted a harness back there till one day the harness died leaving me running on 3 cylinders. My local Speedy Lube guy was ex Ford dealership and knew Aerostars, he did the diagnosis and repair and said it was a common problem. But he has moved on. I was also told I have a torn boot on a plug wire, but there's no way to get my ham-like paws back in there, from front or back, to verify or replace. I mention all this as background, I doubt a bad plug wire is the issue here.
It seems like an odd problem to me because the only pattern is related to operating temp. It is not a constant problem, not an intermittent glitch, but it very definitely goes nuts right when it achieves normal temp. Aside from pulling the codes, which I will figure out tomorrow, any other tests I can run to diagnosis? Any way I can trick this thing into thinking it is cold all the time?
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I just purchased a 1989 F250 with a 5.8 motor. Great truck for its age. Ive owned other Ford trucks in the past and my Dad had them as a kid. Love them.
When I bought the truck from the 2nd owner it had a problem so I bought this truck with the problem figuring with my past knowledge I could fix it. Not the case. When I got the truck it would start fine and run really great but when it got warm it seems it would die and I would have to wait till it was cooled down to start back up and again it would run fine. Well the problem got worse and worse and now it wont run at all.
It will run on starter fluid so that leads me immediately to the fuel pumps. I say that plural because none of them will run it seems. I did a fuel pressure test at the shrader valve at the top of the motor on the fuel rail and I get no pressure at all when I turn the key. The relay in the engine compartment seems to be working to as I can hear it. I put a new on of those on to to be sure. Leads me back to the pumps again. I replaced the external pump on the fuel rail and I know thats working. I replaced the fuel filter to while I was there.
Is it possible to have BOTH fuel pumps in the front and rear tanks go at once? Seems unusual. My other F150 with dual tanks worked great and when the back tank pump went I could just switch it over to the front tank.
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My 03 F250 6.0L Starts and Runs fine but will never illuminate the glow plug/ wait to start light? Scan tool test on GPRM and tells me everthing is OK. Cleared all codes, turn on key, no WTS light and throws P0381 DTC every time. What my problem is?
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I have a huge problem. My 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed manual transmission, has problems with idoling while it's cold, has no power going uphill and stalls when I slow down to stop. This is all after putting a new motor in. The old one was running ok with 310,000 but lagging bad. I figured with the driving I do, a new motor wouldn't be a bad thing. Boy, was I wrong. It has been a nightmare. But once the truck is up to operating temperature, it runs so smooth you wouldn't think there was a problem. But let it cool off, restart, and boom! There it is. We have changed so many parts and sensors with absolutely no change to the original problem. It's very frustrating. I just can't let this problem win. I will figure it out.
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I have a 92 chevy pick up 5.7 with 159,000 miles. The truck runs and starts great but shortly after I bought it 3 years ago it developed a sort of misfire at higher rpm's, it's fine if I drive it normally but if I try to pass someone it will downshift then fall on it's face, (spit,sputter and slow down). some times I can feather the accelerator and it will come back again. I normally don't drive the truck in the winter but this week I was forced to use it and the cold weather is seriously affecting it, it took forever to get it up to 70 mph after getting on the highway. once up to speed it will do 75 all day without an issue.
I've replaced the plugs, wires, pulled the throttle body and cleaned it as the port for the pcv valve was plugged solid with carbon. I have not replaced the cap and rotor as they seemed to look fine. I have not checked the fuel pressure because it will break the tires loose upon take off and I don't think that would be possible if the pressure was low, would it?
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I have a '77 F250 with a 460. (Under edit) It has a holley 750 carb. (under 2 years old). It ran fine for about 2 years and now all the sudden it seems to not get enough fuel. I have a clear fuel filter on it and you can see that it is full of fuel when I first start it up. Just letting it sit there and idle after about 5 minutes it starts to show air coming through the lines and it gets worst the longer it runs.
If I take it out on the road and drive 55 it will be about 1 or 2 miles and it acts like it's not getting fuel. I stop and open the hood and check the filter and it is empty. What could cause this? I took it to an old Ford machanic and he has checked the fuel pump, fuel lines, sending unit, and gas tank. He is at a loss. I am no mechanic, but I am mechanicly inclined. I can't see it would be that hard to figure out. What do I do?
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When truck warms up I lose reverse. I changed fluid and tranny filter and I am still having the problem...
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Have a 93 Bronco, 5.0. replaced battery, IAV and had a complete tune-up. Now starts great, runs fine until it gets warm, than in about 5 - 10 minutes the idle starts to fluctuate. A little at first but eventually between 1000 to 300 rpm and will stall if you don't give it some gas. Turn it off, restart, starts fine and runs OK again for a while.
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We have a question about our 93 Aerostar. The A/C is working, but not very well. Not cold enough. It is fully charged. We are not able to see any condensation dripping below the car when parked, after running the air. We cannot discover where this condensation is going, or even wbere the hose from the evaporator is supposed to be. Shouldn't it be coming down into the front wheel well area? We have had the van since about 03, and the AC system has been replaced in that time. When the weather is cool (not often this summer) the air works OK, but it isn't keeping up in hot weather.
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Is it possible to convert a 1993 2WD Aerostar EB with a A4LD to a AWD drivetrain? I am a Subaru veteran (this is my first time posting), and the mod capabilities of soobs is endless - older 2wd car to AWD is not hard at all on those cars - in fact it is a relatively easy bolt-in change.
Traction on snow (or anything else) in a stock 2WD Aerostar leaves MUCH to be desired (especially when compared to a vintage soob). How good is the AWD drivetrain overall? Is it as reliable and rugged as the 2WD? Gas mileage difference between 2wd and AWD? Handling? Maintenance? Are there different versions of the AWD? If so what are they like? I have a 1993 FSM for the drivetrain, but I don't know how similar other model years are.
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Well I've got an nice steady leak coming from the front of the pan.... running aft of course (downhill, windflow). She's down right now for an AC overhaul and new PS pump/hoses, but I'm inspecting to see what is next to get this stinking oil leakage stopped.
Front HB removal and seal of course, done in situ (in position). But if it is actually the oil pan/seal, can that be done there also? Front of the pan looks tight to the crossmember, and how the internals look (tray baffles, pump pickup) I've no clue if it will come off. Once she is back up and running I'll ascertain where this leak originates.
Interweb searches show the 90-94 4.0L engine is notorious for pan gasket leaks. None of the writeups I've found thus far determine if that pan can be pulled where she sits.
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My 1993 ford aerostar 3.0 is a great vehicle but recently its been killing me trying to figure out what the cause is. I'll start at the beginning. I had a job over the hill in Westwood Ca. Ran low on gas on the way home. Too low apparently. Since i refueled it has a really rough idle and no power under acceleration. After it gets warmed up i get a bad smell of gas and exhaust in the cab.
Now if i turn it off wait 15 min or 12 hours it will run ok for 2 min then back to hell. I has not stalled and i have replaced the fuel filter and a few months back i cleaned the Mass air flow sensor and replaced the TPS. I would love to take it to a mechanic but as i have been living in this old girl for the passed 6 months money is non-existent.
What to do. I have even tried disconnecting 1 at a time... the TPS, MAF, and the 02 sensor. No difference. There has been no check engine light until I tested by disconnecting TPS etc.
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I went to put the van in park, and the gear shifter just went all floppy in my hand. I was able to wiggle/jostle it around and get it into neutral or drive, but nothing else. Tow truck driver crawled under the van, and put it into drive for me, and told me it was probably just going to need a new cable or link shaft (tube shaped thing)... My hubby usually fixes these things, but is now living 1700 miles away.
Anyway, the shop called me and said I needed a new steering column, and said something about the 'lower' cap or half??? He quoted me $340 for the job. I am not getting the connection between the gear shifter being loose/floppy and the steering column needing to be replaced? Is this right?
It is a 1993 Aerostar, 3.0 by the way...
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I have a 1993 Aerostar 3.0L, automatic. The transmission has started dropping out of overdrive into drive while at speed. It's very inconsistent as sometimes it will drive without incident and sometimes it will barely go into overdrive and then drop back out and remain in drive for an extend period of time. I changed the fluid/filter/gasket thinking it was just overdue for changing but no luck. The fluid level is fine, perhaps even a little high. Fluid looks clean on the stick, so I don't think it was a lack of draining enough fluid. The problem seems to be more pronounced when warmed up.
Also when cold, I've had an issue with it stalling while taking off from a stop. I wouldn't necessarily relate the two problems, but someone mentioned they thought they might both be a symptom of a slipping torque converter or something. But the stalling issue seems to go away when it's warmed up.
Also had an issue with the van not wanting to start when damp. But I attributed this to water getting on the coil or plugs or something. What I could try before taking it to a shop and risking getting taken?
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We have a 1993 Ford Aerostar 4wd Eddie Bauer edition. This van has 150,000 miles on it. In the past 2 years we've had a number of problems related to the van idling hard and having a lack of power.
First, the van revved high and low and was unable to maintain a steady idle....I replaced the throttle positioning sensor and this fixed the problem. Next, the van was running sluggish and was very slow to respond when you pushed the accelerator....I replaced the oxygen sensor and it fixed the problem.
Currently, (a few months after changing the oxygen sensor and the problem being temporarily fixed) the van is having the same issue as before I replaced the O2 sensor (running sluggish and slow to respond to the accelerator). If you press the accelerator down (even to the floor) it barely responds, you can get it driving at highways speeds but it takes a long time to baby it up to those speeds.
When you let off the accelerator after pressing the petal down it actually sometimes gets a second of power. It also is not maintaining a stable idle (fluctuating between high and nearly dying). I bought a new 02 sensor and installed it but it didn't fix the problem this time. The exhaust smells rich in gas. What else might make the van run like this? Possible solutions for where to look next?
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My '93 has the RABS lite on when I use the brakes and the brake light comes on when I use the brakes hard. While searching the topic I stumbled on a reference to bypassing theRABS with a piece of brake line, Looking for the particulars on this?
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'93 2wd, standard instrument panel. Headlights and brake lights work fine. No instrument lights or taillights. The problem, at least with the dash lights, seems to be intermittent. My son has told me the dash lights are out, but they worked when I drove it later. I rarely drive the van. Is this a problem with the headlight switch? I pulled all the fuses, and checked the bulbs in the taillights, and everything looked ok.
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My neighbor and son took it upon themselves to get the rear latch to catch... well they have done that..... .and then some. I have got the interior panel removed and the what i will call the latch plate assembly out of the way... I can see one Phillips head screw down in the hole ... but can get nothing to move ... this thing is rock solid on the latch bolt.... what can i do?
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My Aerostar lately has been doing some weird things when going around corners. Whenever I'm going around a corner and I give the wheel a good turn the whole front end and the steering wheel start to shudder hard, and it sounds like the engine is being slightly bogged down. As soon as I finish though and straighten out it goes away immediately. Could this be the serpentine belt or the PS?
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I have a 1993 Geo Prizm with about 120,000 miles, it recently developed a problem where once it is warmed up, it will not start. It starts right up when it is cold first thing in the morning, but once I drive it for 15-20 minutes, if I shut it off, and then turn the key to restart it, nothing happens, no crank, maybe just a small hum. I took it to my mechanic and he cleaned the battery connection and thought it had fixed it, but the next day it did the same thing. Also, it runs fine until it gets shut off, even if I leave it running for hours, it runs fine until I turn it off and then it will not start again for about an hour.
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I recently bought a 1993 Aerostar. When I go to drive it after it rains as soon as I turn the steering wheel a good deal of water comes from the bottom of steering column right into my lap! Why this happens and what I can do to fix it?
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