Ford Aerostar :: 1992 - Temperature Gauge Not Working On Dash / Does Not Move At All
Feb 19, 2012
I have a 1992 Aerostar 3.0L end my temperature gauge on the dash doesn't move at all. Stays all the way to the left. I read on other forums that to make sure the gauge and the wiring are ok, i need to connect the wire that goes to the sensor unit to the negative of the battery. Gauge should go all the way to hot when the ignition switch is put to on position. That was exactly my results. So, i replaced the temp sensor unit but still gauge doesn't move. I didn't use any sealant on the threads when i installed the sensor. Connector looks ok. The engine warms up fine. I really don't know what else to think or do.
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Was driving my 1992, 3.0 and all of a sudden noticed temperature gauge go to extreme hot, steam from hood and engine stalls. Upon inspection, the heater hose blew out, and van does not start even the next day, plus I think the starter sound different (faster). Saw spark at plug wire, smell gas, and did a quick compression with my thumb on #1, and felt air.
Towed it to the mechanic and within 5-10 minutes told me it was a cracked engine, I was not there but he stated he did a compression test. Is he correct, or can it be a timing chain problem?
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After owning my Phaeton for over two years and never seeing the temperature gauge move past the 200 degree mark, I was surprised to see it start to fluctuate on my ride home from Michigan today.
It went up to around 240 then back to 220 and continued between those two for the duration of the 3 hour drive. I know those temperatures are within the safe range but was wondering if it would have continued to rise if I had been driving on a longer trip. Right now I have the hood opened and am waiting for the engine to cool down before checking the coolant level.
This car has operated flawlessly for me and I think a visit to the VW service department is in order prior to the warranty expiration just to have a good look at all the possible issues that might pop up! Even though I have a CPO for another 2 years, I'd prefer not to have to find out what isn't covered in a pinch.
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Temp gauge not working stays at C doesn't move at all. And smelling anti freeze while driving. The heat still works and not wet on carpet of passenger side. Does have an oil leak I think since I've had to add more oil again. Would that have anything to do with an antifreeze smell tho? Just checking before I have it looked at it. Also the gas gauge just floats that hasn't worked in a while though.
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This weekend I was one a trip in my '98 Civic, and I noticed some movement in my temperature gauge. It didn't really overheat; the needle never got near the red, but it did go a little higher than usual.
Normally, once the engine heats up, the needle on the temperature gauge doesn't move, not even a little. It sits right under the squiggly lines on the temperature gauge icon. However, on Friday, when I got off the highway, the needle rose into the upper part of the icon, to the part with the thermometer.
As soon as the car started moving, the needle on the temperature gauge went back to its normal spot, so I assumed it was a problem with the radiator fan and I kept on driving, prepared to turn on the heat if the needle on the temperature gauge started going up.
Saturday morning I took the car to a local shop in Jacksonville, and it turns out the engine needed a new fan and a new thermostat.
The first lesson that comes to mind is that keeping an eye on my temp gauge might have saved me an engine. It certainly saved me a head gasket. Since a head gasket or new engine would have been worth more than the car, catching this before it became a problem saved me from having to buy another car.
The next lesson is that my Civic had two things wrong with the cooling system, and yet it barely showed any symptoms. The air conditioner doesn't work I guess since a working A/C would probably have made it overheat. In any case, I've probably been driving without a working radiator fan for some time.
The final lesson is that if I had tried to diagnose this myself, I'd probably be driving around with a new radiator fan and a bad thermostat. I paid about $435 for a new fan, thermostat, and fresh coolant (I declined the cooling system flush) and it was worth every penny.
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Having a problem with my temperature gauge inside the truck. No matter how far or long I drive, the needle barely moves off of cold. Would the thermostat be the likely suspect? If not, what else could it be? There is no "check engine" light on and my ODB2 reader reads a temp of around 70c solid. If it is the thermostat, where is this part located in the car and would I need to replace JUST the thermostat or are there gaskets/housing-type things involved as well.
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord - VTec - 4Cyl - 2.3L - Engine Type: F23A1.
The temperature gauge in the dash board does not function. I was told the temperature sending unit must be changed.
Where exactly on the engine is this unit located?
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So recently (past few weeks) I've noticed my temperature gauge on the dash cluster doesn't jump up to 190 as it had before. It just sits there when I start the car, and then eventually builds up as I start driving. Reason this concerns me is because I don't remember this ever happening.
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Temperature gauge quit working after changing the thermostat and coolant.
With the engine off, I disconnected the single wire from the temperature sending unit and switched on the ignition without starting engine. The gauge pointer stayed in at the Cold mark. Using a Jumper wire, I grounded the sending unit wire and the needle on the gauge went to the Hot mark.
I quickly turned off the ignition, and replaced the sending unit with a SW-2328 (F1SZ-10884-A) Temp Sender. Warmed up the engine, but still no reading on the dash gauge.
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Basically my coolant temperature gauge either reads as the hottest it can be, or the coldest. It doesn't jump around a whole bunch, but it's always all the way to one end or the other. From what I've read there seems to be a lot of different temperature sensors, so I get a little confused with all of the abbreviations, but I'm fairly certain I checked the correct one, next to the thermostat housing.
Using a multimeter I checked the resistance of the sensor, and it was around 600 ohms about 30 minutes after it had been driven. I'm not sure if this is where it should be or not, but it was rising as the truck cooled off.
Anyway, I'm not sure if I just tested the sensor incorrectly or if there could be another issue. A friend of mine suggested that the thermostat may have gotten stuck or something, but it doesn't seem like the gauge would switch at all if that were the case. What I should check to try and fix this.
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I have a 2004 3.0 V6. The dash temperature gauge doesn't move just sits at the bottom 50C. (Canadian metric)...
I would like to locate the sender for the gauge to do a little testing. I removed a whack of plastic but nothing was obvious.
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Last fall I had my radiator flushed and at the same time my coolant overfill canister with built in temperature guage sensor was replaced with a new unit. (The service station replaced the resevoir canister with a new unit in the engine compartment, because they felt the sensor is prone to failing after 7 years.)
Ever since, my temperature gauge needle on the dash will randomly drop (even when the car is up to FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURES) showing the engine being cooler than it out to be. In other words the needle drops signifying to a much lower water temperature. After a period of time the needle will recover back to the normal full operating temperature mark on the dash gauge.
What could cause this? Inside my radiator do I have a "diafram" temperature valve that could be failing /"sticking?" In other words could a temperature valve in the radiator be sticking at odd or random times??? I also notice that my heater does not put out the usual full furnace heat that a Passat is know for. The temperature is about 1/3 cooler now that we are into winter temperatures.
Is my heater core clogged?
Could the new coolant sensor in the new coolant overfill chamber not be working well? This whole situation began AFTER my radiator was flushed, and AFTER I had the coolant reservoir canister and sensor replaced.
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2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
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2003 Chevy Malibu 3.1 temperature gauge stopped working last night, this morning having trouble starting, no check engine light fans do turn on have heat, replaced the coolant temperature sensor but gauge still not working?
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I have a 2009 Prius. Last summer I noticed that the outside temperature gauge was not working properly. I asked at the wonderful dealership I go to and no one knew anything.
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The outside temperature gauge and park distance system on my Phaeton isn't working. In place of the temperature reading on the dash it just says --.-C I've had it scanned at my local Bosch diagnostic garage and it showed a fault on all six front parking sensors. I can't recall whether he mentioned the temperature sensor as well but I put a new one on anyway as they are cheap and easy to get at. It made no difference. They were very busy so didn't have an opportunity to do any further investigation or dis-assembly and I was in no rush so am taking it back next week.
I have checked the two block connectors which the wires from the parking sensors and temperature sensors go in to and that seems properly connected. Is there another connector somewhere or is there a fuse that protects these somewhere as there isn't a fuse described in the manual as being related to these?
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My sister drives a 2005 Nissan Altima. I am not real familiar with Japanese OEMs but I do most of my own repair work on my car (which currently has issues of its own). What's wrong and how do I go about making the repair...
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I borrowed a friend's small Toyota truck for a few days of easy chores, and made a point to check the fuel at the beginning: the gauge showed 3/4 full. Four days and only 25 miles later, when I got in to return it, I noticed the fuel gauge was not working, I'm certain there's no fuel leak, I would have noticed that: the truck had been parked on my property the entire time, driven only a few hundred feet from one spot to another moving firewood around, so I would have smelled the gas if there was a leak.
When I added a couple gallons of fuel, the gauge didn't budge. Once on the road, I realized that the engine temperature gauge was also dead - no change on the gauge after 10 miles. So I have two non-functioning gauges which failed on my watch. This may not be directly my fault, but as my friend is kind enough to lend the truck whenever I need it, my contribution is to provide maintenance.
Is there anything in common between the two gauges which would explain the synchronized failure? Or is this total coincidence? This one is outside my experience, so don't know where to start. It's a 4 cylinder, 5 speed manual, base model truck, about 150k, generally runs just fine. There are no other gauges, and I don't recall what warning lights there might be, but I didn't see any after I realized there was a problem. Would the whole instrument cluster die at once, or could this be something like a bad ground for the cluster? I don't mind investing effort into tracking down and solving a problem, but if it needs a new cluster, that will cost more than I'd like to contribute, yet the problem occurred while I was using the truck (gently). My total use of this truck for all the times I've borrowed it is certainly less than 300 miles, so I'm reluctant to fund the entire repair if this is something that just comes with age.
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana with about 107500 kms on it (VIN: 1GMDX03E24D183870) and the coolant temperature gauge is not working properly. Sometimes when I start my van, the temp gauge is pinned at MAX temp and stays there the whole trip...other times it's pinned at MIN temp...and other times it seems to work OK.
When it's pinned at MAX temp, I check the actual temp that the on-board computer is seeing, by using my OBDII scan tool...and I get about 87 degrees C when I'm halfway into my trip (i.e. - when the van is at operating temp), which seems OK. All the other analog gauges are working perfectly.
I read a lot about the issues with "connector C305" on the Internet on the Montana vans...could this be the problem?
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I have a 2005 mk4 gli and the other morning I went out to start my car for work and all I got was crank no start. I then realized my fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the driver door. After work I came back and checked the fuel pump fuse and swapped the relay with another I had, still nothing. A buddy of mine decided to check the connector at the fuel pump for power, using a power probe I believe he hit all or the majority of the wires with 12v of negative and/or positive power. He then unplugged the connecter and plugged it back in and the car fired right up. But I noticed that my fuel gauge, engine temp gauge, and outside air temp readout were all not functioning. I've searched and searched without being able to narrow down a solution.
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Just about every trip i take my temp gauge pegs and dinger goes off and check gauges lights up in the message center. It eventually will go back to normal or if i shut key off and restart truck it goes to normal. im guessing it is the temperature sensor for the gauge but not sure?? If it is, where is the gauge sensor located?
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