I have a '92 Aerostar XLT with a rear control arm problem. The bushings have worn out and the rear end floats side to side as much as 1 1/2 inches. Ford says one bushing comes in the arm ( no longer avail ), one is a press in (no longer available), and the other is like a strut bushing and is available but without the other 2 there is no point in replacing the one. How to fix this enormous problem???
View 10 RepliesI bought a used 2007 Lexus RX350, FWD, in December 2012 and had it looked over before I signed the papers by a non-biased mechanic. He said the control arm bushings would need to be replaced in the future.
When I took the car in last month to my mechanic (a private mechanic, not a Lexus dealership), he said the control arm bushings on the right side are worn a lot more than the left side. He said on this Lexus, it would require removing the engine to replace the parts (?) and that because it was such a labor intensive job, and the left will eventually wear, that he advises I get both the left and right replaced at the same time.
can you replace the upper control arm bushings (pass side) with the arm still in the truck?
View 8 RepliesWe've got a '96 aerostar (4x4). The bushing and upper control arm seem to need replacement but the parts seem to be obsolete. Any source for these (other than salvage yards)?
View 14 RepliesI'm scheduled for my first HPDE next week and I just discovered that the bushings on the front end links are worn. I don't notice any issue when taking curves and I'm asking due to the timeline of when the dealer will get the parts...it'll be cutting it close before the event.
View 3 RepliesOn my 99 at the tip of the springs there is what looks used to be plastic wear spacers between the leafs. Mine are worn out and I think it is part of a squeak noise I am chasing.
What that part would be, where I could get them, and do I have to break down the leaf assembly to change them or could I raise the truck by the frame and take the load off the springs enough to get the in?
My rear control arm bushings are cracking. I was wondering if this is a serious problem and what negative effects it will have if I leave them alone.
View 10 RepliesI have been having that nice thumping noise that generally accompanies worn out sway bar bushings. I did bushings last spring but a noise came back shortly thereafter. Finally got bothered enough/ found enough time to take a look at it and tracked it down to the sway bar again. My right front axle mount has taken damage before and is now all bent up, not allowing the bushing clamp to hold tight to the bushing. Pictures of the issue are below.
Front view of the entire mount.
Rear view showing the sway bar mount plate.
I am unsure what to do about this mount. As you can see it has been pretty messed up by the PO. What could be done to fix the issue?
1992 f150 4.9L, bought it a couple of months ago knowing the ac wasn't working PO had it converted to 134, said it worked great until they put on the bodylift. Compressor clutch is working, I'm sure I have some blend door issues but I've bypassed the heater for now.
AC on max, outside temp 85*, engine off high/low at 100psi, engine at idle low 55psi high 125psi, center vent reads 93*. When engine at apox. 1800-2000 rpm, low 35, high 180, center vent reads 85*.
My guess is the compressor is worn out. Is there another way to test? If I do replace what else do I need to replace? I'm hoping there's something else I can do/check before replacing the compressor.
I have a 1992 Aerostar with a 3.0L engine. For the past few weeks she intermittently didn't want to start but eventually always did. I replaced the fuel pump relay because she always have had problems with that. The relays are loose and get wet. Anyway, I thought i fixed it because I didn't have any problems for about 2 weeks. But one day didn't want to start again. She finally started and took her home.
Now, no matter what she wont start. I did some tests and there is gas been pumped but I don't have a spark. I put a new ignition coil and a new ignition module and still no spark. If im right, i only have 2 things left that could be the culprit, the profile ignition pickup, and/or the computer. Is there any other reason that could be the problem? I read online that in order to replace the PIP i have to take apart the distributor. Is this true?
My 1992 AeroStar 3.0L 2WD keeps cutting out like it's not getting fuel BUT...only after around 55 mph and after it warms up.
I first thought it was the fuel pump so I changed it. I didn't get a whole sending unit along with pump, I just dropped the tank and changed the pump...that didn't do the trick. Then I checked the fuel filter along the bottom rail and it's very clear flowing. Then I thought it might be the fuel pressure regulator. Ok, how many of you have changed the fuel pressure regulator? Man it was tough! I had to grind down an allen wrench to get room to turn those three allen bolts AND I replaced it while I was stranded on the side of the road!
Well, replacing that regulator didn't work either. I don't know where to go from here. It totally cuts out at higher speeds when it's warmed up. Could it be the oxygen sensor? It can't be the plugs. I don't think it can be the sending unit in the tank even though I changed its pump. Is there another fuel filter somewhere? I'm moving to another town and I have to get the van there.
Picked up another 92 extended! Seller's mechanic thought ECM died. When you connect the battery, the fuel pump runs, steady. 167K, same as my DD van! Plans are to pull the trans and swap tires first, and eventually pull the motor and freshen the seals and gaskets, and a timing chain. I would like to have it run first though. I'll take pics after it's hauled home.
View 3 RepliesJust got my car back from the shop and it squeaks pretty loudly at low speeds. It seems pretty clearly to be coming from underneath the front seats and it sounds like rubber rubbing against steel so I am guessing its the control arm bushings.
Yesterday I took it to the shop to have the passenger side control arm installed and to have the tie rods done and get an alignment.
This past weekend I installed new drivers side control arm/ball joint, front struts (also installed a new rear hub & wheel bearing). I did not hear any squeaking after I did that.
Is this just something that needs to be broken in?
It wasn't til I got it back from the shop that it started to squeak. I only notice it from 0-20 mph then it seems to go away. Everything else seems fine, suspension, steering and alignment are all great and there's no clunking etc.
I was driving the other day (cold weather- approx 15 F), and my serpentine belt shredded. Managed to drive a mile or so to my driveway. The belt was shredded on the fan side (and had come completely off), but it wasn't torn in two. Got a new belt and installed it, but upon test-cranking, found that it was riding up one ridge on the crank. All the other ribbed pulleys were fine (PS, AC). The smooth pulleys had the belt move a little, however.
Thinking I didn't set it right, I reinstalled the belt on the crank and tried again. Same result (belt rides up one groove, towards the fan). I perused the archives, and one comment was that someone simply trimmed one groove off the belt and everything was happy. The belt found it's "groove", and didn't act up anymore. Doesn't fix the underlying problem, but
1) is this a good fix
2) any clue what is going on?
3) Do I need to get the crank fixed?
BTW, I am sure that I threaded the belt on correctly!
1992 Aerostar, 4.0L, AWD. AC+P/S....
So long story short I have a 92 Aerostar AWD which I'm pretty sure had the transfer case recall done (97V204000 1992 FORD AEROSTAR Recalls) it has the aluminum driveshaft but a couple of years ago the transfer case cracked and I replaced it with a "New OEM" transfer case off eBay. Fast forward to the present and my van has a strong vibration at 60+ my transmission guy says it all looks good so the vibration has to be from one of the driveshafts. My thought is that I may have got a transfer case without the recall done on it and its warped my driveshaft. I don't really know thats possible or what I could do about it if that was the case.
View 8 RepliesFinally got my title, plates, and inspection for my 92. Started driving it to work Monday, and things were going smoothly until this morning. I noticed this van had as much road noise from the back as my 95 did, I assumed it was the junkyard fresh Prime well tires. Well, the noise seemed especially loud today, and then it went quiet. I knew this wasn't a good thing! I turned onto the exit ramp, and instant smokescreen! I was planning on replacing the rear axle seals this weekend, but that apparently wasn't soon enough.
Let it cool for a bit, then limped over to the Lowe's parking lot. Conveniently, there's an Auto Zone there too! My wife picked me up, and I loaded the car with jack, stands, and tools, plus a quart of gear oil left over from when I changed a seat on the 95. Long story short, pulled the driver side axle, and the wheel bearing was completely disintegrated! Luckily, I was able to get my paycheck a day early, so I can pick up the new bearing in the morning, as well as 'rent' the bearing puller.
Oil leak started suddenly - losing large amounts - dripping off front differential. Very hard to determine source. Ahead of Sensor Assembly. Drivers side.
Leak is very bad. Quart drains out in 10 minutes - solid stream.
Could it be the timing cover gasket ? Or is that too far back.
Tempted to use bars...
Brought the Tig in for an oil change & while it was on the lift the tech noticed that the subject bushings are cracked/separating...Tig has about 43,400 mi...is this a common issue?
View 6 RepliesI have a 92' Areostar XL 3.0 2WD. When I first start it and put it in drive it takes a few minutes before it kicks in. After a few minutes of driving it doesn't have a really bad problem (only a few times has it slipped in lower gears.) I was told it could be a clogged transmission filter, old transmission fluid that is glummed up, or pull belts need to be tightened. I have the van up on jacks now and was getting ready to change the filter and fluid but I decided to get some advise first before I screw things up or do any unnecessary work.
View 14 Replies1992, shory 3.0 130K MILES
On start up runs very rough, will stall if not power braked or revd a little on start up/out of the driveway.
VOLT METER STARTS GOING NUTS!!
After a mile/warm up,,, runs great. But sometimes even when its hot, it will still try to do the rough idle briefly after just a few minutes restart. Give it a few revs at that point and its good. And once in a blue moon it will do it randomly at a stop light,, out of the blue. Very rare
i have a 92 eddie bauer star with premium sound system with equalizer. i'm upgrading to an aftermarket system and was told there's a tray that replaces the equalizer and i'm wondering if it's a separate piece from the trim piece that covers the radio, vents etc. ?
View 6 Replies