The drivers side power door lock is starting to go out. The lock is very sluggish and sometime does not activate. Two months ago I sprayed the mechanism with some lite oil, that worked for a little while. I could not see the power relay on the power lock there is not much room to see inside the door.
1992 4.0L Aerostar...
When I use the remote to lock/unlock the doors the drivers side door won't activate . . . .unless it's really cold outside. The other 3 doors work year round.
Sounds weird but as the weather gets colder the lock on the drivers door will start to work. As winter turns to summer here in Illinois it starts to act up again. When it does work, it seems that unlocking works more consistently than locking.
Asked the dealer to have a look at it. They said it was a "weak actuator motor" and suggested to replace it. Sounds bogus to me.
I've tried to have a look down there but I'm afraid to take it all apart for fear I won't be able to get it all back together. Are there adjustments that can be made to the linkage or are lubrication points that might get this thing back working again . . . . . . all year long?
I also noticed that manually working the passenger side lock will lock the rear doors but won't lock the drivers door so it's not the remote. I never paid attention to whether manually working the driver side lock would lock the other doors but I think not since the buttons are right there on the drivers door.
My drivers door lock quit working.all the others still respond to the drivers door switch.the motor works when on the bench.one of the wires has broken or lost connection. Where to check first?
View 4 RepliesOn my 97, I cannot power LOCK the doors from the driver's door switch. All other functions work okay. Jumping the switch has no effect.
On the wiring diagram the wires from right and left door switches come together at the relay (seems logical). Where the relay is located?
I have a 2door 1992 Honda Accord EXR. In order to lock the car, you need to close the driver door and use the key to lock - annoying as hell but apparently the only way.
It recently got very cold and I can't seem to lock my driver's side door from the outside with my key. I tried squirting in door lock de-icer but to no avail. The key does not turn on the outside although once inside I can lock it from inside with the door lock switch.
Passenger side locks but it does not lock the driver's door.
My front passenger door will not unlock when i activate the locks from the driver's side door- all other locks (driver's door, back seat, trunk) do unlock when activated (from both inside and out). When I try to use the locking feature on the passenger door it does not respond, nor does it respond the the key fob. The only way I can unlock my passenger door is manually. Is this something I can fix at home?
View 8 RepliesWhat would cause the front wheel on drivers side to lock up if it isn't the brakes. have been hearing a loud popping noise for a while on drivers side especially when turning left. Today got really loud just driving and then a real loud grinding noise. Then a loud pop and front wheel locked up and skidded across highway til i came to a stop. What it could be or how can i at least get wheel to turn to get it on trailer...
View 6 RepliesI have a '03 elantra. The drivers side power door lock actuator went out. Haven't had much luck locating one on-line. Really don't want to go to the stealership. front and rear doors are the same? I would swap them out, since I seldom use the rear doors.
View 2 RepliesStrangely today my drivers side rear power door lock stopped working. Very annoying, can't unlock it electronically, and if its unlocked the rest of the car won't lock and the headlights won't go off.
I have to put it in anyways for the airbag seat rail TSB, but I was going to wait until my 40k service was due. This is too annoying to wait on since I put my briefcase and hang up my suit jacket in that seat...
Did some searching but didn't find anything on how to replace the driver's side front window glass. Someone decided they liked my GPS unit more than I did while I was at work. Smashed out my driver's side window and took it. Now to replace that window. I did manage to find a replacement window.
Pulled off the door panel and now I'm trying to install the glass. Anything I try though, I can't seem to get the glass back into the tracks. Does anything inside the door need to be removed before I can install the glass back into the tracks? Such as the window motor/regulator assembly? On the left side of the drivers door towards the bottom, there is also another small alignment track. Does this need to be removed as well?
I searched but can't find anything I know how to fix it once it's out, but until I get it out I got nothing.
View 4 RepliesI have approximately 45K miles on my 2013 GLS. For some time, I've noticed that when raising the driver door power window, it slows down and becomes sluggish about 1/2 way up, almost like it's struggling. When wet, it's worse and will start vibrating while being raised. I've tried WD40 in the window track, but that's not a permanent solution. Oddly enough, I had the same trouble with my 2001 Elantra over the life of the car.
View 3 RepliesThe driver side door of my 2009 f150 won't lock, not with the remote nor with the button inside the truck,also not when the truck goes over 20 km/h, however the driver side door works perfectly fine....
View 7 RepliesReplaced the door lock switch and all the other door lock switches in the car work, as does the one on the keyfob. How to figure out what's going on?
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2000 Ford Explorer and the Driver's side electronic door lock will only unlock during warm weather. The lock will work to lock the doors, but if the temperature is below a certain degree, the door won't unlock. What is the fix?
View 4 RepliesThe driver side lock actuator on my 1999 Explorer has stopped working. It got so I couldn't even use the key to lock the driver door. I know I can get a replacement part, but after taking of the door panel and trying to get at the actuator, I am concerned about doing the work myself. Any tricks for making the job easier? Are there special tools that would make it easier? Or would it be best just to take it to a repair shop and let them do it?
View 6 RepliesJust bought an 06' f-150 about a month ago everything was in working order and now lone behold a problem. Not sure if it is significant or not but a problem is a problem none the less. To start the driver side door will no longer unlock either door, replaced the switch hoping/thinking it was just faulty but still no luck, tried to unlock and lock it from the passenger side to make sure that it isn't the actuators and confirmed that it is not the problem so I am left wondering what could it be? Was thinking maybe a relay? or a fuse? but Where the relay would be and it wouldn't make sense to me being a fuse for unlock and another separate fuse for lock.
Next battery died after a week of sitting, checked the battery and alternator to make sure that it wasn't those to blame for the problem and both were fine. I know that there is a after market security system on the truck and that is the suspect thus far to being the Drain I am Having, still yet to hook up a multi meter to see how big of a drain it is though. third is that the CD player does not turn on nor do the lights turn on once you shut the truck off and open the door, I have to manually turn the CD player off to keep it from draining the battery even more. Feel like I fell for a little trap buying from the dealership. trying to work something out with them but until I hear back I am still trying to make amends.
On occasion my drivers side door will not unlock, I have a SEL with the key less sensors so as I try to get in the car it unlocks all the rest of the doors but not the drivers, I have to go to the other side and physically use the inside latch and then that door unlocks. I notice this when I run the remote start cycle twice more than anything.
View 4 RepliesI have a '99 Super Duty Club Cab and the driver side door lock switch is not working. Passenger side switch locks and unlocks both doors just fine. Full disclaimer, the driver side actuator is wearing out and doesn't work all the time but I can always hear it engaging when the passenger switch is activated. So I know the driver side actuator is on it's way out and have plans to replace it.
That being said here is what I have done that leads me to believe the driver side lock switch is fine and the problem lies elsewhere....I just don't know where. If I swap the driver and passenger lock switches, the drivers side switch will work when plugged into the passenger side but the passenger switch will no longer work when plugged into the driver side. This tells me the switch is fine and my problem lies somewhere else. Where I should start to track this problem down?
I have a 2007 4 door Sonata, and the Driver door power door lock does not always function. It make a noise like it is working, but most of the time it does not lock or unlock the door. The other doors work fine, and I need to manually lock and unlock the driver door with the key. I'm told that the problem is probably the door lock motor. Looking for some detailed instructions on how to remove and replace this motor?
View 4 RepliesWe have a 1993 Ford Aerostar 4wd Eddie Bauer edition. This van has 150,000 miles on it. In the past 2 years we've had a number of problems related to the van idling hard and having a lack of power.
First, the van revved high and low and was unable to maintain a steady idle....I replaced the throttle positioning sensor and this fixed the problem. Next, the van was running sluggish and was very slow to respond when you pushed the accelerator....I replaced the oxygen sensor and it fixed the problem.
Currently, (a few months after changing the oxygen sensor and the problem being temporarily fixed) the van is having the same issue as before I replaced the O2 sensor (running sluggish and slow to respond to the accelerator). If you press the accelerator down (even to the floor) it barely responds, you can get it driving at highways speeds but it takes a long time to baby it up to those speeds.
When you let off the accelerator after pressing the petal down it actually sometimes gets a second of power. It also is not maintaining a stable idle (fluctuating between high and nearly dying). I bought a new 02 sensor and installed it but it didn't fix the problem this time. The exhaust smells rich in gas. What else might make the van run like this? Possible solutions for where to look next?