Ford Aerostar :: 1992 - AC Hoses Block Radiator Removal
Feb 6, 2014
On my 92 Aero 4.0L with A/C, I need to replace the radiator but I am not sure how to move the A/C hoses out of the way to extract the shroud and the radiator.
I have viewed a video where a guy said to remove the serpentine belt and then unbolt the A/C compressor and move the compressor and hoses out of the way. Hope this means that I don't have to discharge or disconnect AC hoses. Not good for me.....
Well, the video instruction seems simple enough......but there doesn't appear to be enough "play" in the AC hoses to move them far enough to extract the radiator, and not being an AC guy (and the potential danger of releasing freon), I am at a loss.
How to move the AC hoses out of the way (without disconnecting the hoses or discharging the system) ....
Not to mention it would be great to find out what the torque specification is for tightening the AC compressor bolts for proper reassembly. And being the backyard mechanic I am, any drawings, details or diagrams that you can provide would be very useful.
BTW, I have looked in the forum for radiator removal information and none of the threads I read addressed moving the AC hoses (which of course run right over the top of the dang radiator).
If I get past these "hoses" I will also take advantage of the radiator removal to replace the fan and fan clutch and thermostat while I am there, but first things first, if you know what I mean.
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My 2005 Freestar (not the Freestyle) a/c is working properly except that it is only blowing through the defrost. I've read other posts about it being a leaking vacuum system on other ford vehicles that cause this problem.
1) I'd like to confirm that this Freestar a/c works on a vacuum system to open the a/c duct doors.
2) If it is, where are the vacuum hoses located? I'd like to check them to see if they are connected or if they have a hole.
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I drive a 2002 Ford Ranger and am wondering at what mileage should I change the heater and radiator hoses. The truck lives in Phoenix, AZ and is driven almost daily.
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I'm feeling a bit embarrassed posting my delima, but I have a minor coolant leak which seams to be coming from where the heater hoses connect to the water pump and as well to the thermostat nuckle thingy. I have replaced all of the hose fittings with SS band clamps.
A couple of weeks ago I replaced the water pump, thermostat, alternator, rad hoses, belts, coolant sensor, PS tension pulley. The water pump is now tight and sealed. Since then the temperature gauge has been continually fluctuating from Normal to near Cold.
I was wondering if I should have placed some type of sealant compound where the heater hoses connect to the water pump and also to the thermostat nuckle thingy.
Initially, I thought it may be residual trapped air in the coolant system. But after a week, it became apparent that the heater hoses were leaking at the engine, and at the water pump, connections.
What puzzles and torments me is why is the temperature gauge fluctuating so widely up and down? This is totally weird.
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In April I replaced the radiator, hoses, water pump and Tstat. I used Mishimoto for the radiator and hoses (silicon). I am having trouble with the hoses leaking where they clamp to the radiator. I put 2 on the lower hose and that seemed to work. No other signs of leak on than drip from the top hose - factory clamp is on and tight as I can turn it - still lost a gallon in 2-3mo. Should I just get a new clamp? OEM stuff was not this prone to leaking ....
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Ok I have a 97 f150 4.6L. My radiator has been bad for a while. With brown rust color. I replaced my radiator, thermostat, new upper and lower hoses. Everything runs great but I have no heat. I flushed everything including the heater core. Core is not leaking into cab, and both heater hoses are cold. What should I do next FYI heat worked great until 5 days ago.
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I have a 76 f250/460 engine. I have replaced the hoses, belts, water pump, fan clutch, flowed the radiator and it still overheats.
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I'm wanting to know if the hoses are the same?
i assume they are but never seen the under hood of a 10.5.
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My wife's 89 Aerostar is leaking brake fluid from the back side of what is either the distribution block or combination valve. I am not sure which it is but it is the first block you run into following the lines from the master cylinder and it is right below it near the fender well.
The part has been discontinued and is too expensive anyway so I am looking for input as to what this peice is and if / how to rebuild it.
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My van is leaking oil from where the oil filter extension bolts to the block. Is it an o-ring or a gasket that needs to be replaced? Any unexpexted upsets that I should expect when fixing this?
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I have a 98 Toyota Camry, when I drive it for about 30 minutes both radiator hoses expand and seems like they want to burst.I removed the thermostat but still acting the same. Seems like the car is building a lot of pressure from the engine.. What could this be? Already replaced the water pump and have a new. radiator... The car does not overheat with or without the thermostat.
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92 Toyota Pickup (22RE auto). New block, rebuilt head, new water pump at 300k about a year ago. Sounds strange I know but that's what seems to have happened. Ive never been able to get heat from the truck since Ive owned it so Ive been trying to fix that. I flushed the coolant out and replaced the tstat. I brought the car to a mechanic and he put a pressure tester on the cooling system and he said it wasn't holding any pressure. He also pulled off the heater core inlet hose with the truck running and no coolant was coming out. He thought there was a blockage somewhere but how to fix it. I figured I might as well try replacing the old radiator cap with a new one so I did. Once I did this, the first time the truck went out, it overheated and the radiator crimped upper seam (on the plastic) burst outward.So all in all...something is wrong.
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I have a 1992 Aerostar with a 3.0L engine. For the past few weeks she intermittently didn't want to start but eventually always did. I replaced the fuel pump relay because she always have had problems with that. The relays are loose and get wet. Anyway, I thought i fixed it because I didn't have any problems for about 2 weeks. But one day didn't want to start again. She finally started and took her home.
Now, no matter what she wont start. I did some tests and there is gas been pumped but I don't have a spark. I put a new ignition coil and a new ignition module and still no spark. If im right, i only have 2 things left that could be the culprit, the profile ignition pickup, and/or the computer. Is there any other reason that could be the problem? I read online that in order to replace the PIP i have to take apart the distributor. Is this true?
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My 1992 AeroStar 3.0L 2WD keeps cutting out like it's not getting fuel BUT...only after around 55 mph and after it warms up.
I first thought it was the fuel pump so I changed it. I didn't get a whole sending unit along with pump, I just dropped the tank and changed the pump...that didn't do the trick. Then I checked the fuel filter along the bottom rail and it's very clear flowing. Then I thought it might be the fuel pressure regulator. Ok, how many of you have changed the fuel pressure regulator? Man it was tough! I had to grind down an allen wrench to get room to turn those three allen bolts AND I replaced it while I was stranded on the side of the road!
Well, replacing that regulator didn't work either. I don't know where to go from here. It totally cuts out at higher speeds when it's warmed up. Could it be the oxygen sensor? It can't be the plugs. I don't think it can be the sending unit in the tank even though I changed its pump. Is there another fuel filter somewhere? I'm moving to another town and I have to get the van there.
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Picked up another 92 extended! Seller's mechanic thought ECM died. When you connect the battery, the fuel pump runs, steady. 167K, same as my DD van! Plans are to pull the trans and swap tires first, and eventually pull the motor and freshen the seals and gaskets, and a timing chain. I would like to have it run first though. I'll take pics after it's hauled home.
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Is there something else hold the cabin hatch (doghouse) in place? I've unsnapped 3 latches but it still refuses to come loose.
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Aero, 3.0 Shorty 1989
put a new radiator in my truck, as the original one finally had a small crack.. (I've kept it, since it is brass or copper!)
I put a new 192 T-stat in there too, (OEM temp)
but, now it seems that the van is running hotter than it did before!
when I had the original rad in there, it would never get above the R in the Normal word... now it runs at about M (high middle)
Also, when I tryed to burp it, I'd top it off, but then it would put the extra in the overflow tank, and only stays full up to the very bottom of the filler neck.
this is a plastic radiator... is that what the difference is?
I used to be able to top off the old tank, and it would be right at the top whenever I opened the cap... not so with this one>?
wondering if I should go down to like a 180 degree t-stat? gauge still stays normal - but if it's correct, it's about 50 degress difference.
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I was driving the other day (cold weather- approx 15 F), and my serpentine belt shredded. Managed to drive a mile or so to my driveway. The belt was shredded on the fan side (and had come completely off), but it wasn't torn in two. Got a new belt and installed it, but upon test-cranking, found that it was riding up one ridge on the crank. All the other ribbed pulleys were fine (PS, AC). The smooth pulleys had the belt move a little, however.
Thinking I didn't set it right, I reinstalled the belt on the crank and tried again. Same result (belt rides up one groove, towards the fan). I perused the archives, and one comment was that someone simply trimmed one groove off the belt and everything was happy. The belt found it's "groove", and didn't act up anymore. Doesn't fix the underlying problem, but
1) is this a good fix
2) any clue what is going on?
3) Do I need to get the crank fixed?
BTW, I am sure that I threaded the belt on correctly!
1992 Aerostar, 4.0L, AWD. AC+P/S....
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So long story short I have a 92 Aerostar AWD which I'm pretty sure had the transfer case recall done (97V204000 1992 FORD AEROSTAR Recalls) it has the aluminum driveshaft but a couple of years ago the transfer case cracked and I replaced it with a "New OEM" transfer case off eBay. Fast forward to the present and my van has a strong vibration at 60+ my transmission guy says it all looks good so the vibration has to be from one of the driveshafts. My thought is that I may have got a transfer case without the recall done on it and its warped my driveshaft. I don't really know thats possible or what I could do about it if that was the case.
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Finally got my title, plates, and inspection for my 92. Started driving it to work Monday, and things were going smoothly until this morning. I noticed this van had as much road noise from the back as my 95 did, I assumed it was the junkyard fresh Prime well tires. Well, the noise seemed especially loud today, and then it went quiet. I knew this wasn't a good thing! I turned onto the exit ramp, and instant smokescreen! I was planning on replacing the rear axle seals this weekend, but that apparently wasn't soon enough.
Let it cool for a bit, then limped over to the Lowe's parking lot. Conveniently, there's an Auto Zone there too! My wife picked me up, and I loaded the car with jack, stands, and tools, plus a quart of gear oil left over from when I changed a seat on the 95. Long story short, pulled the driver side axle, and the wheel bearing was completely disintegrated! Luckily, I was able to get my paycheck a day early, so I can pick up the new bearing in the morning, as well as 'rent' the bearing puller.
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Oil leak started suddenly - losing large amounts - dripping off front differential. Very hard to determine source. Ahead of Sensor Assembly. Drivers side.
Leak is very bad. Quart drains out in 10 minutes - solid stream.
Could it be the timing cover gasket ? Or is that too far back.
Tempted to use bars...
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