My engine stalls when cold or warm, when put in gear or idling in gear at a stop. If I left foot break and give a little gas I can usually keep it going. I ran 2 bottles of fuel injector cleaner through, but no dice. Could the fuel filter need to be replaced? If so, where is it located? 1991 Aerostar 3.0 Auto RWD
View 14 RepliesI have a 1991 Aerostar 2wd 3.0. I recently had freeze plugs replaced and the mechanic had to drop the tranny to get to some. Now the shift cable has come off the gear selector lever. I have googled everywhere and can't locate the procedure for reattaching it. My mechanic was doing the work on the side and charged me only labor for his assistant. He is at work right now..
View 5 RepliesIt would appear as though my steering leak on my 1991 Aerostar is coming from the seal, where the steering shaft enters the steering box. I'm trying the Lucas treatment but it doesn't appear to be working. Can this seal be replaced WITHOUT replacing the entire steering box?
View 6 RepliesWhere/how to check the ATF in the transfer case? I found the lower drain bolt,but I don't see anything up higher that looks like a fill hole.
'91 Aerostar 4.0L AWD
1991 aerostar 4.0 ... My van was running well til last week.it allegedly has 77000 miles on it. It started running really rough within a 50 mile period. I've quit driving it til I am sure. I am not harming it. I put a vacuum gauge on it. It wildly fluctuates between 3 and 7 pounds at idle. I've tried plugging the four vacuum lines one at a time to eliminate the accessories as the problem.the check engine light is off and my scan tool shows no codes.i unhooked the exhaust at the manifolds to make sure the cats aren't clogged.it doesn't have egr. There's no water in the oil or bubbles in the radiator.i have a compression tester but id like to avoid trying to get to the plugs unless necessary.
View 5 RepliesHave a 91 Aerostar that won't start. Has fuel pressure, pulse to fuel injectors, strong spark, strong compression, etc.
Thinking that the spark may be coming at the wrong time I tried a spare ignition module that I keep. No luck. Since my distributor had a lifetime warranty I got another one, again, thinking spark was coming at wrong time. Nothing. Engine won't even pop.
I am going to drop the front pipe in the unlikely even that the new converter is plugged or, somewhat more likely, the muffler, but I am leaning toward a computer at this point.. Still don't understand since it is getting spark and gas why engine won't even pop.
How to remove roof rack on 91 Aerostar? Google and search box here yielded no result so a new thread is likely in order. I have leaky roof. Not windows.
View 8 RepliesI developed a freeze plug leak while driving into town in my 1991 Aerostar with the 3.0 liter engine. Got to Schuck's (my destination) and bought some antifreeze, noted where the leak was and filled up the coolant system.
Drove a few miles to the mechanic's house. Coolant blowing out everywhere, obviously boiling off. Let it cool down while going over an estimate for repair. Topped it off one more time and went home. Have not moved it since.
There is sludge, almost like thick foam, that I suspect is what's left of coolant that has had the water mostly removed. It is the same color as the coolant - bright orange-ish green. Will a few flushes with fresh water clear this out of the system?
Will interior door panels from a '91 Aerostar fit a '96? No power windows or locks. The panels in our '96 are busted and I found a good set in the salvage yard in a '91. Lady at salvage yard says they're different, but I'm not so sure. Also, will the windshields swap?
View 3 RepliesFord E150 Conversion Van 1991, V8. Replaced spark plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel injector, cleaned gas tank, replaced gas. Ignition turns and starts but sputters loudly and stalls soon after. We've tried just about everything but it won't stay running.
View 5 RepliesWas driving my 1992, 3.0 and all of a sudden noticed temperature gauge go to extreme hot, steam from hood and engine stalls. Upon inspection, the heater hose blew out, and van does not start even the next day, plus I think the starter sound different (faster). Saw spark at plug wire, smell gas, and did a quick compression with my thumb on #1, and felt air.
Towed it to the mechanic and within 5-10 minutes told me it was a cracked engine, I was not there but he stated he did a compression test. Is he correct, or can it be a timing chain problem?
1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo ran smooth until suddenly stalled; would restart for only a few seconds. Visually diagnosed and installed fuel pump; then ran for 2 minutes & rough before stalling. Now we have a new crankshaft sensor; now runs for 5 seconds. We rebuilt one part at a time? Diagnostic equipment not available.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1991 Buick century with 160,000 miles. It wasn't driven for about a year and about 8 months ago I changed the plugs, wires, and oil and it has run great since then...until yesterday. Now, every time I slow down to come to a stop (or below 20mph) the car jumps and jerks and acts like it is wanting to lock up and stalls. It starts back up put every time I put it in drive (just drive) it stalls again. I end up having to put it in neutral, rev the engine, then put it in drive real quick. Talking to my dad, who I got the car from, he told me it used to have this same problem and that is why he quit driving it. We have a couple of theories
View 5 Repliesmy daughter has a 91 volvo 240 with a 4cyl and auto. roughly 100000 miles. it starts and runs fine but after driving it, if it is shut off for less than 30 min, then she tries to start it again, it stalls immediately. she can keep her foot on the gas slightly and drive it the distance of a parking lot, the car will run fine and not stall. i was curious if a tune up would fix this or if there is a smaller fix such as a sensor.
View 1 RepliesThis is a 1991 Volvo 240 Automatic Station Wagon. The Check Engine Light has been on for at least 6 months, the timing belt was replaced 3 months ago , the battery is a month old, the oil was just changed, gas tank just filled and the odometer stopped at 259,000 miles before I bought it so it has well over 300,000. Yesterday morning it took a minute to start, which happens on occasion, but backed out and drove about a mile and stalled at a stop light. It finally started, after 6 false starts, and I turned around to go back home. It then stalled again but reversed just fine, so I got it turned around and drove in reverse the rest of the way home. It drove fine after a few hours but did the same thing today.
View 13 RepliesI went to put the van in park, and the gear shifter just went all floppy in my hand. I was able to wiggle/jostle it around and get it into neutral or drive, but nothing else. Tow truck driver crawled under the van, and put it into drive for me, and told me it was probably just going to need a new cable or link shaft (tube shaped thing)... My hubby usually fixes these things, but is now living 1700 miles away.
Anyway, the shop called me and said I needed a new steering column, and said something about the 'lower' cap or half??? He quoted me $340 for the job. I am not getting the connection between the gear shifter being loose/floppy and the steering column needing to be replaced? Is this right?
It is a 1993 Aerostar, 3.0 by the way...
I have become the proud owner of a 1991 Ford F-150 long wheel base with a camper shell. It has a 300ci straight 6 with an overdrive transmission. When I first started driving the truck over a year ago it had about 45000 miles on it. Obviously it had not been used much. I have since added about 15000 miles so now I am just over 60000. When I first started driving the truck occasionally it would jerk really hard when shifting. It didn't seem to matter which gear it was going into. The more I drove the worse the problem got to the point where it would drop completely out of gear while going down the highway.
Now another detail. The jerking was much worse when the outside temperature was above 50 degrees. During the winter the problem was all but none existent. I thought I was at the least looking at a transmission rebuild. Well about two months ago I decided to try something radical. When I drove in town I would turn the overdrive off and manually shift through the gears. Since my business is not far from my home and I seldom get over 50mph I would leave the overdrive off. It never would get over 2000 rpm's. After about two weeks of this I tried putting it back in drive while in town. Now there is no jerking or dropping out of gear.
I have a 1991 Chevy Lumina and I believe this wire is the root of my problems. I
wasn't the one who unplugged it but it seems it was unplugged as an easy way to get around a problem. When unplugged the car runs but the performance is off, It doesn't feel like it has the same power as it does when it's plugged in and it also sounds different when in idle. When the wire is plugged in the car stalls while driving at random intervals between 1 and 10 minutes and needs to be jumped to start it back up. I will attach pictures of the wire and its location within the surrounding area.
It's a 1988 with a 3.0 engine and an automatic transmission. It doesn't want to shift. I can make it shift manually, but if I leave it in OD, it wants to stay in 1st gear . If you fiddle with the accelerator, you can get it to shift. Then it wants to stay in 2nd, and so on.
Like I said, if I use the gear selector to manually shift, it will go to all four gears just fine.
My thoughts are a vacuum leak (a big one) or a faulty vacuum modulator at the transmission. No, the vacuum line to it doesn't have tranny fluid in it, but I replaced it, and I wonder if it's bad. Yes, I made sure to put the little metal pin/link back in it.
My 97 AWD Aerostar bumps in and out of gear on very hot days. I've had the transmission fluid and filter changed. That repair worked, but it still shifts hard when very hot. I tow a boat. I always push the shifter button in to deactivate the OD when towing. I talked to friends who recommended an auxiliary transmission cooler. I looked on the van where one might be installed. I have a factory transmission cooler (oem factory installed).
The cooler is in front of the radiator. I don't see any room to add an additional cooler. The van has 145,000 miles. The van runs and shifts fine most of the time. The problem has happened only on very hot days. What I can do to prevent transmission problems. I've read that the AWD 1997s use a five speed transmission. 1997 was the first and last year the five speed automatic was installed in the AWD Aerostar.
I searched a lot but did not find these symptoms on my 1992 Aerostar 3.0 2WD with A4LD transmission.
In overdrive, accelerate to down shift, and the transmission goes out of gear. Engine revs as if it was taken out of gear. Manually shift to Drive, and it works fine.
Overdrive works fine if at speed, and works to shift up, but if going slow enough to drop to lower gear, transmission goes out of gear. Manually in drive, works fine.
I may have other symptoms, but this was on the way home from work, and I just parked it. I checked fluid level, and it was fine, still in the cross-hatch area of the stick, light colored oil, no smell.
I will replace the modulator and replace the filter, and see what that will do. If the overdrive works at overdrive speed, I do not see how that could be an overdrive housing failure that I have seen in many posts. I am aware of keeping track of the pin for the modulator.
I also have read that band adjustment is not a good idea. If they are worn that bad, they should be replaced. I don't think it is a band or clutch problem. I think it is a shift control problem. We will start with the modulator and filter and take it from there.