I have a 1991 Aerostar 2wd 3.0. I recently had freeze plugs replaced and the mechanic had to drop the tranny to get to some. Now the shift cable has come off the gear selector lever. I have googled everywhere and can't locate the procedure for reattaching it. My mechanic was doing the work on the side and charged me only labor for his assistant. He is at work right now..
View 5 RepliesOk, my shift lever is broken where the OD button is located. Not the cap and button, the whole end of the lever has snapped off.
View 5 RepliesMy engine stalls when cold or warm, when put in gear or idling in gear at a stop. If I left foot break and give a little gas I can usually keep it going. I ran 2 bottles of fuel injector cleaner through, but no dice. Could the fuel filter need to be replaced? If so, where is it located? 1991 Aerostar 3.0 Auto RWD
View 14 RepliesI just bought a f150 2001 5.4L crew cab. It has the O/D switch in the gear shift lever and the black plastic handle is broke. I found a complete replacement lever on ebay but cannot find any tutorials on how to replace this.
View 8 Replies1997 F150 xlt 4x4 ... When I shift the gear shift lever to below D (2-1) it blows a fuse and I lose instruments. Replacing the fuse is not difficult, just tiresome..
View 6 RepliesI think the gear shift lever is loose and so I get a no start every day or two. I remembered seeing somewhere here that there was a way to tighten up the grearshift lever to fix this problem. I did a search to no avail.
View 5 RepliesThe Speed Needle works fine. But...the Odometer part quit some time ago. I can't tell what my fuel Mileage is now. How to troubleshoot this problem?
Things that might affect this problem; Transmission skids loudly when going in and out of 4-OD. It could be the Torque converter clutch?
The Gear shift lever is sloppy. Doesn't fill me with Confidence.
Brake fluid warning light is on most of the time. Fluid level is up hi though. Driver door mirror control switch don't work in one direction Who on this Forum has a Switch for me?
I have a 2012 Elantra Limited with about 36000 Miles. I purchased this car used with 12000 miles. I commute to work about 90 miles round trip a day mostly highway. I usually average about 33 or 34mpg. Recently, my mileage has fallen to 22 or 23 mpg and I have noticed my car having problems shifting. When accelerating normally, 1st - 3rd shift normally. Once I get into 4th, the car won't shift into 5th unless I manually do it with the gear lever or play with the throttle. If I just accelerate it will go all the way up to over 6000 rpm before it will shift. There are no problems with down shifting. Once it gets into 5th it will shift into 6th normally. There are not warning lights on and it doesn't always do it so of course when I need to recreate it I can't.
View 26 RepliesIt's a 1988 with a 3.0 engine and an automatic transmission. It doesn't want to shift. I can make it shift manually, but if I leave it in OD, it wants to stay in 1st gear . If you fiddle with the accelerator, you can get it to shift. Then it wants to stay in 2nd, and so on.
Like I said, if I use the gear selector to manually shift, it will go to all four gears just fine.
My thoughts are a vacuum leak (a big one) or a faulty vacuum modulator at the transmission. No, the vacuum line to it doesn't have tranny fluid in it, but I replaced it, and I wonder if it's bad. Yes, I made sure to put the little metal pin/link back in it.
Volvo Automatic 1992 240 - So, just started to back out of the garage and, all of a sudden, my gear shift got stuck in neutral and then started shifting without engaging the transmission at all. Pushed it back into the space and, taking a look underneath, I realize the control rod's completely detached from the lever in the transmission.
I can re-attach it, but it just comes loose again when I shift. It seems like something should be in there to hold the control rod in place with the transmission lever, but I don't know what because I can't seem to find any documentation on what everything should look like down there.
Attaching a couple shots, one with a circle around the area that's coming un-attached since the angle's a bit off.
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IMG_8972.jpg ( 1.09MB )
IMG_8978.jpg ( 938.64K )
I have a 2011 Sonata with 4,000 miles. Recently, I have noticed that when coming to a stop, I hear a light thump noise in the center console area near the gear shift lever. If I put my hand on the gear shifter, I can feel it move ever so slightly at the time of the noise. The noise is very repeatable. If I take my foot off the brake and start rolling and then I reapply the brake (either softly or hard) it will make the thump noise. It is not very loud and can be drowned out with loud music, but if listening to news, it is very noticeable and annoying in city traffic, where stops are very frequent. I put the car up on ramps and looked underneath and did not see anything noticeable. It will probably require the center console between the seats to be removed.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 Lincoln Town Car that has an intermittent vibration that can be felt when seating in the car and you move the gear shift lever to D for drive. The car has 141,000 miles. It is an automatic transmission. The vibration cannot be felt when touching the steering wheel. What could be causing the vibration?
View 3 RepliesI had to stop quick today. My ice water spilled into the gear shift lever. A mile down the road my rpms went up high and the car barely moving.
2006 Hyundai Sonata...
My '95 Aerostar 4.0 no longer likes to shift out of first gear. It will if I accelerate to maybe 25mph and completely get off the throttle for a few seconds. (It also revs freely at full-throttle kick down, as though it was in neutral.) A fluid and filter change didn't work, so I dug into forum posts. I found the vacuum modulator, and there's no ATF in the vacuum line, but it's an adjustable one which has me baffled...
The modulator has a thumb wheel on the outside of it. It will unscrew completely - and then it comes off, with a pin attached to it. This is very different from the ones I've seen pictures of here, where the pin is moved by the diaphragm. Is this the same pin, or some kind of preload device for the actual pin farther inside?
There's enough else wrong with the Aerostar that I'm not willing to sink very much more money into it. It'll run as is, as long as I'm careful. I'm just trying to get a few more miles out of it... might a regular, non-adjustable modulator?
I have a 2007 Touring Edition PT Chrysler Cruiser which was just a few days ago repaired because of damage under the front of the car. Front bumper, ouside and inside grills, all housings and connecdtions in the front area were replaced, including air conditioning mechanisms. Received car on Monday, Friday evening, it wouldn't start. Just made a tet tet tet or clicky kind of noise, no turning over of engine, then there was no noise ... just wouldn't start. Got jump, still wouldn't start until the third cycle that peddle was pressed. Now I'm finding that the longer I let the car idle, the more likely it will be to start after more than two hours of non-use. Had all electrical circuitry checked ... battery's 100 percent, alternator is working fine, but it's still not starting.
Car's gear shift button at top of lever is also sticking when I put it in park to turn the car off. Have to pull the top button up to get the key out. This was happening before car was repaired underneath front. Talked to warranty person, and he felt that maybe the ignition starter switch (if that's what's wrong) and sticking gear shift may have something to do with each other. Since car is actually starting after being run, maybe it's not the starter switch. I'd hate to get it repaired if that's not what it is. Thinking about having a Chrysler dealership do a diagnostic test on it to pinpoint exactly what is going on.
What's happening? Why is my car cutting not starting in selective situations after not having been idled for a couple hours or more?
My Daughter owns a 2000 Camry. It has a very annoying habit of not starting when it is warm (think driving to the gas station, turning the car off to fill it and then it doesn't start again). We have tried new solenoids, a new starter and several other tweaks but nothing seems to fix the problem. Recently she discovered if she jiggles the gear shift lever (it's an automatic) it will start. So, obviously she gear shift lever is not finding Park or Neutral so that it can be in position to start. She has experimented with this concept and it appears to be the only thing that consistently solves the starting issue. What would we have to fix in the gear shift lever, or elsewhere, to fix this problem?
View 5 RepliesWhen I had my heads replaced, the mechanic informed me that my cruise control cable was broken. News to me. It worked fine before. He said he couldn't find a replacement. I went to my local Ford parts dept. and they told me it was a discontinued item.
So I went online and ordered one from Direct Ford Parts and it did not match. The part number was FMC-F49Z9A825JA. In the parts catalog it says it fits 92-97. Not even close. The one I have has a screw off top and the one sent has a bolt on housing.
1997 Ford Aerostar 4.0 ... I really need my cruise control ...
Just made it back from out of state hunting trip,driving to get new tires. And heard a bump sound , Driving about 40 mph and tack jumped from around 1800 rpm to 4500. Engine' smooth and parameters good . However will drive in low and 2 nd gear approximate 25 mph. When select drive will not shift into high without slipping an rapid rpm increase. Currently 135k service record's and general appearance were well maintained....
View 2 RepliesIt would appear as though my steering leak on my 1991 Aerostar is coming from the seal, where the steering shaft enters the steering box. I'm trying the Lucas treatment but it doesn't appear to be working. Can this seal be replaced WITHOUT replacing the entire steering box?
View 6 RepliesWhere/how to check the ATF in the transfer case? I found the lower drain bolt,but I don't see anything up higher that looks like a fill hole.
'91 Aerostar 4.0L AWD
1991 aerostar 4.0 ... My van was running well til last week.it allegedly has 77000 miles on it. It started running really rough within a 50 mile period. I've quit driving it til I am sure. I am not harming it. I put a vacuum gauge on it. It wildly fluctuates between 3 and 7 pounds at idle. I've tried plugging the four vacuum lines one at a time to eliminate the accessories as the problem.the check engine light is off and my scan tool shows no codes.i unhooked the exhaust at the manifolds to make sure the cats aren't clogged.it doesn't have egr. There's no water in the oil or bubbles in the radiator.i have a compression tester but id like to avoid trying to get to the plugs unless necessary.
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