Ford Aerostar :: 1990 - Low Fuel Pressure
Dec 22, 2016
My fuel pressure is at 24 engine of and 29 engine running. Is this a bad fuel pump? I was told that it is supposed to be between 40-45 PSI. Is this correct?
View 5 RepliesMy fuel pressure is at 24 engine of and 29 engine running. Is this a bad fuel pump? I was told that it is supposed to be between 40-45 PSI. Is this correct?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1990 Aerostar 4WD, 4L, with about 120k miles. About 6 months ago I started my van and noticed under it that gas was dripping onto the exhaust at the Y-joint and evaporating. I shut off the van and drove another car to work. That evening with fire extinguisher at hand I drove my car up on ramps and quickly got under it looking for the leak. NOTHING. 6 months later...yesterday. I drove for a few blocks from home and notice heavy gas fumes etc. Stopped the van and again gas was dripping onto the Y-pipe joint.
This was an explosive situation... I pulled off the doghouse cover and saw, smelled and touched gas friom on the right top of the engine near the back. My questions are: What could randomly be leaking at this location and is it fixable without pulling the engine. I pushed the van to a secure location and am afraid to turn it on. Maybe I will drain the gas tank before then. I am just now trying to find the schematics for the fuel line delivery stuff. Where to go for a manual.
I have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
View 1 RepliesMy '90 240 will not start. When I turn the key to Acc. or Start I hear a whirring sound coming from the fuel pressure regulator so I assume the fuel pump is not an issue. The engine will not even crank. I assume it is the ignition coil or the starter but I am unsure. As an FYI, the battery and plugs are good.
View 1 RepliesI want to replace the lock cylinder which apparently I should have already done but now the key won't turn at all and the wheel is locked in place, so I can't turn the key to the run position in order to remove it. Is there some way of working around that?
View 9 RepliesI have a 1990 Aerostar that has leaked gas 3 or 4 times. I am not sure where it is coming from exactly but it seems to be towards the back of the engine, kind of near the torque converter. This leak happened 2 days ago when i was warming the van up and it was cool outside. The time before that, it was after driving for a while. The day before yesterday I drove it probably 50 miles with no problems and it was about 85-90 degrees outside. I drove it today and there was no leak and today is a cooler day.
View 14 RepliesI have had an intermittent Check Engine Light for a couple of days --- the van started and ran fine, but the CEL would come on after about 15 minutes of driving. It would sometimes go off before I reached my destination, but it was always off the next time I started the van. No sweat.
I went to read the codes this afternoon and now have a problem. I put one end of a jumper wire into the Self Test Input (STI) and then accidentally let the other end of the wire touch the 12V connector of the starter relay (why is that thing unprotected anyway?). I saw a little arc so I know there was some current flowing.
After this, I connected the STI to SIG RTN for reading the Key On Engine Off codes and got no pulses at all. I rechecked the jumper wire but got the same result. I then removed the jumper and started the van --- it ran quite rough and would only stay running by giving it plenty of gas. The CEL was on the whole time. I did this a couple of times just to be sure.
I guess there's nothing more annoying than turning a little problem into a big one... crap.
I couldn't find an electrical circuit diagram showing the STI in my Haynes manual, so I'm not sure what is likely to have been damaged. I assume the engine control module (ECU) has been damaged, but that is just a guess.
Some specific questions:
- where is the ECU?
- Should I spring for a new one (depending on the ID number), or is one from a junk yard just as good?
M y 90 aero 3.0 heads are leaking front and back freeze plugs. I think back ones are pretty accessible from inside. How hard to change it . I changed block plugs. What size are head plugs?.
View 14 Replies1990 Ford Aerostar. When I start runs really rough and has excessive fuel consumption and the exhaust smells like gas and has a misfire my friend says its the coil pack going bad im not sure. I love my ford aerostar dont wanna get rid of it.
View 5 RepliesMy '90 E250, open road, mini motorhome , says on the radiator mount , that there is a Fuel shutoff switch that may have been activated.... I don't have the manual for it, so I need finding the switch, so I can reset it ....The vehicle sometimes starts after about 2 mins with the ignition on, but today won't start, even after a longer wait. Both tanks are full...Fuel gauge not working , in either front or rear position. I can hear the rear pump,in the tank, but can not hear the front one....When I bought it last year, it ran fine after waiting to start, and both positions worked , no stalling , or shutdown.Came home about 95 miles, and it's been parked almost all the time since. I want to start it up weekly , but am having that same problem ...Today was the first time I could see the Fuel Pump Shutoff warning ...but can 't find the darn switch to try resetting .....
View 1 Replies1990 f150
I have a leak in my rear fuel tank, the front tank has been blocked off and is not used, The leak is at the seam of the two part tank, once removed is there a way to seal this? or should I just replace it?
I need to check the fuel pressure to verify if my fuel pump is functioning. What is the procedure and PSI?
Assume that I open the valve on fuel rail with engine off, then connect pressure tester kit, put key in ignition to "on" position, then pump up to specified PSI???
On my 1997 XLT 4.0 the Oil Pressure Gauge (yes, I know it is not a real pressure gauge) started fluctuating down and up rapidly. Revving the engine does not seem to affect it. Oddly, it does not do it for the first few seconds after startup, until the idle stabilizes and lowers.
I checked the connection on the wire to the sending sensor, it looks clean.
Main concern - is this just the sending unit failing, or is it the Oil Pump? Do I need a mechanic to test the actual oil pressure?
I have a 96 aerostar with just over 100,000 miles. Recently, after driving about an hour at highway speeds I noticed the oil pressure dropped to zero when I came to a stop in a rest area. I immediately shut the van off and checked the oil, which was full.
After restarting the engine, the oil pressure gauge read normal again so I proceeded on my way down the road keeping a close eye on the gauge. Within minutes the gauge started fluctuating from zero to normal several times and then dropped to zero and stayed there. It sounded like I was getting some top end clacking (may have been my imagination) so I shut off the engine while driving and restarted it and the pressure gauge started reading normal again.
I drove to the next exit and figured it must be the sending unit acting up, so I checked the wiring at the unit for a possible loose connection and finished my 150 mile trip with no further issues with the oil pressure gauge. I have run the van locally on short trips but I am afraid of making any long distance runs without knowing for sure if it was the sending unit or perhaps another more serious problem.
My truck gave me low fuel pressure and reduced pressure limp mode at 21,000 miles. The fuel and air filters were changed at 16,000. The dealer said all they found was the fuel filters (at 21,000) were what needed to be changed. Also, why does my truck hum??
View 14 RepliesI own a 1990 Ford Ranger, 2.3 EFI with an 8 Plug setup and 2WD. It uses a dual-coil system an not a distributor if that means anything here.
Okay, so for the last week I have been experiencing extremely high oil pressures. My gauge would read almost as high as the "H" mark. The smell of burning oil was heavy in the cab from the vents. I took it easy, made sure my oil level was good and I had enough oil, the truck drove rough, but drove decent.
Yesterday, I got done sliding in some mud (not crazy bouncing or anything, just sliding). I stopped at a stop sign, turned around and hit the gas, and the truck died. I thought there were other issues not related to oil, however I noticed that the oil gauge now read about an inch left of the "L"ow mark. If I turned the key, to the "ON" position, the gauge pushed the needle to above the left gauge itself pointing towards about the "8 oclock" area.
Now, my truck will not start. It cranks and cranks and cranks with no start. I called a bunch of mechanics and none of them knew what I should do. AutoZone did not know what do, no one did. Some people said that the oil pump itself had gone out and that would cause the truck not to start and would cause gauge issue. Others said that it might be as small as the Oil Pressure Switch. Firstly, I bought a new Pressure Switch. Have not installed it because I cannot find the damn thing.
Where the switch OFFICIALLY is. I have read on Google that it is on the passenger side, at the rear end of the cylinder head. Other posts say it is by the oil filter...
PICTURES:
Without the key in the ignition:
With the key in the ignition, in the "ON" position:
Just acquired a 1990 celica gt at a steal lol and needing some troubleshooting answers. tonight was the first night we really had drove it, but my husband drove it to work which is an hour away and he noticed that when he comes to a stop the oil pressure light comes on. as soon as he starts to go again it goes off. the engine does not make any noises other than the typical 2200 lifter chatter and it does not leak oil.
We plan on doing an oil change so we are not sure if that could just be the issue or if it's something else. we had this issue with a dodge ram we had and it ended up being the oil pressure sending unit. he took the one off the car and it did need some tightening up but however when he put it back on the issue was still there.
We do not believe it's any low compression as the car cranks fine and normal with no rising of the cranking as you would get for a cylinder with low compression. we aren't really sure about the bearings because well that's not one of those things easily tested but the engine doesn't make a noise which I know at times you won't have one.
My 1992 AeroStar 3.0L 2WD keeps cutting out like it's not getting fuel BUT...only after around 55 mph and after it warms up.
I first thought it was the fuel pump so I changed it. I didn't get a whole sending unit along with pump, I just dropped the tank and changed the pump...that didn't do the trick. Then I checked the fuel filter along the bottom rail and it's very clear flowing. Then I thought it might be the fuel pressure regulator. Ok, how many of you have changed the fuel pressure regulator? Man it was tough! I had to grind down an allen wrench to get room to turn those three allen bolts AND I replaced it while I was stranded on the side of the road!
Well, replacing that regulator didn't work either. I don't know where to go from here. It totally cuts out at higher speeds when it's warmed up. Could it be the oxygen sensor? It can't be the plugs. I don't think it can be the sending unit in the tank even though I changed its pump. Is there another fuel filter somewhere? I'm moving to another town and I have to get the van there.
I picked up a 90 f150 with the 302. it wont idle without a little throttle, so after a quick look under the hood i noticed alot of broken torn and missing vacuum lines. Where I can get some sort of diagram for routing?
View 1 RepliesMine has a strange issue. 1990 xlt 2.9L manual 4x4. When first start of the day, after start I push accelerator and it has a hesitation like not getting fuel. Where start?
View 1 RepliesToday, my 1995 E150 suddenly started acting like it was running out of fuel Lucky for me, this happened close to both a parts store and my usual mechanic's shop. Unluckily for me, it happened on Saturday, and my shop can't get to it until Thursday. So here I am, hoping to do a fix in the meantime.
At first, it seemed that it must have been the fuel pump, because I couldn't hear it come on when I turned on the ignition. Then, a guy who said he was a mechanic told me he could hear the pump cycling, and that my problem was the fuel pressure regulator. So he managed to start the vehicle after a few tries, then it crapped out again. He did this twice. Then he went away.
I called every parts store in town, and none of them had a fuel pressure regulator for my vehicle, and the earliest any of them could get one was Monday. But I knew I was due for a fuel filter, and I'd changed filters on this vehicle before, so I got one of those and put it in. To my delight, the van started right up and idled beautifully. In fact, it ran beautifully for about 15 minutes, until I came to a slight rise, then it crapped out again. It still started up and idled smoothly, and even revved up smoothly, until it reached a high idle speed, at which point it crapped out. I did manage to limp into the parking lot of my shop - which, again, can't get to it until Thursday.
So my question is: does this sound like a fuel pressure regulator to you? If so, is that a job which somebody with a reasonable mechanical aptitude (i.e., at least good enough to change the fuel filter) should be able to feel safe doing? If the answer to those two is "yes" (or even if it's "no")....