Ford Aerostar :: 1990 - Gas Leak 3 To 4 Times?
Jun 5, 2009
I have a 1990 Aerostar that has leaked gas 3 or 4 times. I am not sure where it is coming from exactly but it seems to be towards the back of the engine, kind of near the torque converter. This leak happened 2 days ago when i was warming the van up and it was cool outside. The time before that, it was after driving for a while. The day before yesterday I drove it probably 50 miles with no problems and it was about 85-90 degrees outside. I drove it today and there was no leak and today is a cooler day.
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I want to replace the lock cylinder which apparently I should have already done but now the key won't turn at all and the wheel is locked in place, so I can't turn the key to the run position in order to remove it. Is there some way of working around that?
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My fuel pressure is at 24 engine of and 29 engine running. Is this a bad fuel pump? I was told that it is supposed to be between 40-45 PSI. Is this correct?
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I have had an intermittent Check Engine Light for a couple of days --- the van started and ran fine, but the CEL would come on after about 15 minutes of driving. It would sometimes go off before I reached my destination, but it was always off the next time I started the van. No sweat.
I went to read the codes this afternoon and now have a problem. I put one end of a jumper wire into the Self Test Input (STI) and then accidentally let the other end of the wire touch the 12V connector of the starter relay (why is that thing unprotected anyway?). I saw a little arc so I know there was some current flowing.
After this, I connected the STI to SIG RTN for reading the Key On Engine Off codes and got no pulses at all. I rechecked the jumper wire but got the same result. I then removed the jumper and started the van --- it ran quite rough and would only stay running by giving it plenty of gas. The CEL was on the whole time. I did this a couple of times just to be sure.
I guess there's nothing more annoying than turning a little problem into a big one... crap.
I couldn't find an electrical circuit diagram showing the STI in my Haynes manual, so I'm not sure what is likely to have been damaged. I assume the engine control module (ECU) has been damaged, but that is just a guess.
Some specific questions:
- where is the ECU?
- Should I spring for a new one (depending on the ID number), or is one from a junk yard just as good?
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M y 90 aero 3.0 heads are leaking front and back freeze plugs. I think back ones are pretty accessible from inside. How hard to change it . I changed block plugs. What size are head plugs?.
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1990 Ford Aerostar. When I start runs really rough and has excessive fuel consumption and the exhaust smells like gas and has a misfire my friend says its the coil pack going bad im not sure. I love my ford aerostar dont wanna get rid of it.
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I have a 1990 Aerostar 4WD, 4L, with about 120k miles. About 6 months ago I started my van and noticed under it that gas was dripping onto the exhaust at the Y-joint and evaporating. I shut off the van and drove another car to work. That evening with fire extinguisher at hand I drove my car up on ramps and quickly got under it looking for the leak. NOTHING. 6 months later...yesterday. I drove for a few blocks from home and notice heavy gas fumes etc. Stopped the van and again gas was dripping onto the Y-pipe joint.
This was an explosive situation... I pulled off the doghouse cover and saw, smelled and touched gas friom on the right top of the engine near the back. My questions are: What could randomly be leaking at this location and is it fixable without pulling the engine. I pushed the van to a secure location and am afraid to turn it on. Maybe I will drain the gas tank before then. I am just now trying to find the schematics for the fuel line delivery stuff. Where to go for a manual.
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I installed lowering springs (1.5 inches front and rear) on my car, 1990 Maxima, with new performance shocks, but the ride is a little bouncy at times. I know this is from the reduced travel the shocks have..even though they are stiffer than stock. Is there any way to give a little more travel? or how to give the shocks more dampening force? (besides putting the old springs on of course). Would lighter wheels/tires work? How about loosening the center nut on the strut a bit?
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While driving our 1990 toyota corolla (3-speed automatic transmission) on the freeway recently, the car gave a slight jerk, at which point my husband looked at the gas gauge and noticed it was well below "E".. Oops. fortunately, there was an exit right there with a gas station. Filled up and we were off toward the next on-ramp. Got to about 35-40 mph, and all of a sudden the car literally just stopped moving forward after violently jerking back and forth several times. We then tried to put in neutral and push it to the side, but it wouldn't even do that. Everything was locked up, seized solid. Somehow we managed to get it to the side.
The flatbed tow truck took us home, and all we could do by that point was move a foot or two in reverse after it dropped us off... fast forward... After several days/weeks of it sitting around we can now actually drive it forward! reverse! but we haven't taken it out of the driveway to go more than 5 mph.. We had seen some fluid leaking prior to this incident, but could NOT figure out where it was coming from despite checking obvious fluids meticulously every couple of days. A friend said it might have been the diff fluid? We'd like to fix the car, but to repair a tranny on this old car (although it only has 67K miles!!!) is too expensive. My husband wants to make it a weekend project.
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Well I've got an nice steady leak coming from the front of the pan.... running aft of course (downhill, windflow). She's down right now for an AC overhaul and new PS pump/hoses, but I'm inspecting to see what is next to get this stinking oil leakage stopped.
Front HB removal and seal of course, done in situ (in position). But if it is actually the oil pan/seal, can that be done there also? Front of the pan looks tight to the crossmember, and how the internals look (tray baffles, pump pickup) I've no clue if it will come off. Once she is back up and running I'll ascertain where this leak originates.
Interweb searches show the 90-94 4.0L engine is notorious for pan gasket leaks. None of the writeups I've found thus far determine if that pan can be pulled where she sits.
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I have been having to add 1-2 quarts of oil every 2-3 days. I have noticed the back of the engine wet, but have seen no visible leaks unless the engine runs then it drips. Does it sound like a valve cover gasket problem or a rear main seal?
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It would appear as though my steering leak on my 1991 Aerostar is coming from the seal, where the steering shaft enters the steering box. I'm trying the Lucas treatment but it doesn't appear to be working. Can this seal be replaced WITHOUT replacing the entire steering box?
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1989 3.0 shorty - 135K on her - and at 21 years old, the original radiator finally failed with a hair line crack, and so I bought a plastic on, from on of the part stores, put it in, and now it takes on like a gallon a month of antifreeze.
BUT I see no leak at all... the engine runs fine, and not head gasket or crack head (been there done that with the explorer I have). I don't smell it either really -heater core is dry... as is floor underneath. Need replacing the Radiator?
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Oil leak started suddenly - losing large amounts - dripping off front differential. Very hard to determine source. Ahead of Sensor Assembly. Drivers side.
Leak is very bad. Quart drains out in 10 minutes - solid stream.
Could it be the timing cover gasket ? Or is that too far back.
Tempted to use bars...
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I have a 1990 Ford Ranger 2.9 4X4 with the Mazda M5OD transmission. I took a peek under the truck the other night and I noticed that my slave cylinder is taking a little leak on me. I was wondering how to go about changing the slave. I could either pull the engine. Or pull the transmission and transfer case.
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89 3.0L - I seem to loose a little bit of coolant every time I drive maybe like 1/2 a pint?
I checked every connection - engine running, and even waited to make sure the t-stat was opening, and closed, etc (maybe it was the top hose, nope)
I did replace the radiator a couple of years ago, and had the problem ever since I did that, but at the same time, I also replaced the T-Stat with a 165 degree, since she was starting to run a bit on the hot side, even with the new water pump and radiator I did... on a cool day, it would run at the middle of the gauge with a 190 degree... and with AC on, hills and 95 degree days, it would be pushing upwards of 3/4 of the way on the gauge...
Could the 165 degree therm stat be somehow causing a 13 lb cap to not function properly? I replaced the original with a Stant... but Im thinking I should get a new Motorcraft OEM cap, since the other one lasted 20 years!
I kept the old radiator - love it - "wow real brass/copper in there!" it was still fine when I pulled it, but had a hairline crack right below the top hose area...
Anyways, pressure tests revel nothing, I see no bubbles or anything with the engine idling, cap off
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1994 - 3.0 .... Back behind the water pump there is a stream of coolant what could that be. Water pump has been replaced earlier last year I thought that fixed it,there has always been a mystery leak..
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I have an 88 EB, and every time I fill up the gas tank and park on my driveway (slight incline) gas leaks from the top of the tank. 3 different mechanics have checked it out completely and say there it nothing wrong - including the dealer that totally topped off the tank. Does this sound like a fill line to the tank? It only leaks until the gas gauge goes down a notch....
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My van is leaking oil from where the oil filter extension bolts to the block. Is it an o-ring or a gasket that needs to be replaced? Any unexpexted upsets that I should expect when fixing this?
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Searched several times over the winter. Finally tore each hose out one at a time and went carefully over it before returning or replacing.
Turned out to be the long formed semi flexible vac. hose that runs from the gas fumes purge tank control valve group to the throttle body across the top of the engine. Ripped it out, on one of the bends was a small crack all the way thru, apparently would open up wide when stressed and cause problems. Mainly on hill pulls or hard acceleration but not every time. NO hair left after this one.
Replaced, deleted the codes. Runs like a top.
Still amazed at how much power these 4.0L V6 OHV Fords have from low speed on an uphill on ramp drag race.
stirs the old hot rodder blood.
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I replaced the water pump on my 3.0 and now, 9 months later, there is a coolant leak from the front engine cover (timing chain cover). The leak has probably been there two months or so, but it was so small initially, it was difficult to locate. A google search seems to indicate that a leak from the timing cover is somewhat common on the 3.0.
When I was doing the job, I noticed that some of the water pump bolts also hold the front cover in place, which seems like a bad design because removing those bolts takes some of the compression off of the timing cover gasket. Now that I have this leak, I'm wondering if changing the water pump is related to the leak. And, yes, I did use thread sealant on the bolts as recommended in the genuine Ford shop manual.
So now, I'm curious. Noticed a leak from the timing cover relatively soon after replacing the water pump on 3.0?
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