My wife's 89 Aerostar is leaking brake fluid from the back side of what is either the distribution block or combination valve. I am not sure which it is but it is the first block you run into following the lines from the master cylinder and it is right below it near the fender well.
The part has been discontinued and is too expensive anyway so I am looking for input as to what this peice is and if / how to rebuild it.
My van is leaking oil from where the oil filter extension bolts to the block. Is it an o-ring or a gasket that needs to be replaced? Any unexpexted upsets that I should expect when fixing this?
View 13 RepliesOn my 92 Aero 4.0L with A/C, I need to replace the radiator but I am not sure how to move the A/C hoses out of the way to extract the shroud and the radiator.
I have viewed a video where a guy said to remove the serpentine belt and then unbolt the A/C compressor and move the compressor and hoses out of the way. Hope this means that I don't have to discharge or disconnect AC hoses. Not good for me.....
Well, the video instruction seems simple enough......but there doesn't appear to be enough "play" in the AC hoses to move them far enough to extract the radiator, and not being an AC guy (and the potential danger of releasing freon), I am at a loss.
How to move the AC hoses out of the way (without disconnecting the hoses or discharging the system) ....
Not to mention it would be great to find out what the torque specification is for tightening the AC compressor bolts for proper reassembly. And being the backyard mechanic I am, any drawings, details or diagrams that you can provide would be very useful.
BTW, I have looked in the forum for radiator removal information and none of the threads I read addressed moving the AC hoses (which of course run right over the top of the dang radiator).
If I get past these "hoses" I will also take advantage of the radiator removal to replace the fan and fan clutch and thermostat while I am there, but first things first, if you know what I mean.
Aero, 3.0 Shorty 1989
put a new radiator in my truck, as the original one finally had a small crack.. (I've kept it, since it is brass or copper!)
I put a new 192 T-stat in there too, (OEM temp)
but, now it seems that the van is running hotter than it did before!
when I had the original rad in there, it would never get above the R in the Normal word... now it runs at about M (high middle)
Also, when I tryed to burp it, I'd top it off, but then it would put the extra in the overflow tank, and only stays full up to the very bottom of the filler neck.
this is a plastic radiator... is that what the difference is?
I used to be able to top off the old tank, and it would be right at the top whenever I opened the cap... not so with this one>?
wondering if I should go down to like a 180 degree t-stat? gauge still stays normal - but if it's correct, it's about 50 degress difference.
Well, today I was checking the oil in my 1989 Ford Aerostar and noticed that there was more than just oil on my dipstick! I noticed a few small little metal shavings on the dipstick! They looked kinda like tiny pieces of hair, and there were only a few. What this means? I don't hear any noise from the engine (but then again I usually drive with loud music so I may be missing something). I have been trying to listen to the engine recently though. The vehicle seems to drive good, no overheating. The oil itself is quite black, in fact it looks like chocolate syrup.
No doubt the engine could use an oil change, which I'll be doing as soon as I get my paycheck. When I bought the vehicle it needed a quart of oil (which I added) but I've been driving it quite a lot since then and it hasn't been loosing oil. But now I'm worried about these shavings. Has my engine seen better days or is this just normal tear on an engine this old. I'm not sure how many miles are on the vehicle, odometer says it has just slightly over 3000 miles, but its one of these old 5 digit odometers so I have no idea if that's 103000, 203000 or 303000.
1989 3.0 shorty - 135K on her - and at 21 years old, the original radiator finally failed with a hair line crack, and so I bought a plastic on, from on of the part stores, put it in, and now it takes on like a gallon a month of antifreeze.
BUT I see no leak at all... the engine runs fine, and not head gasket or crack head (been there done that with the explorer I have). I don't smell it either really -heater core is dry... as is floor underneath. Need replacing the Radiator?
I recently bought a beater '89 F-150 (I-6, MT) with the following problems:
1) Both rear brakes seem to stick on occasion--almost like there was a "check valve" on the rear brake line. When that happens, there is a "BRAKE" and "Rear ABS" light (although the light does occasionally come on without brakes sticking noticeably).
What I noticed in Haynes is that the "RABS I" system functions in the following way: a) Upon noticing rear axle spinning slower than front axle, it actuates a valve, isolating the rear brakes b) If the problem persists, it then dumps the pressure back into the main system.
So, I wonder: Is this an ABS system acting up? If I were to (temporarily) de-power the ABS setup, would it default to "no ABS," or would I need to remove the hydraulic valves from the brake lines? (Don't really want to if I don't have to.)
2) You can select either fuel tank, get that tank's level to indicate on the fuel gauge...yet it only "draws" from the front tank.
Again, Haynes says there is a low pressure pump in each tank, feeding a high-pressure pump in essentially a small "header" tank. The "dual-function reservior" has a wholly mechanical selector, and notes that "Tank switching versus gauge conflicts can occur under certain failure mode conditions."
So: I can understand that the mechanical selector can, in effect, "stick" on one tank. But what I don't understand is how it can still draw from the front tank, with the "rear" tank selected (and presumably, that tank's low-pressure pump trying to feed the header tank.)
Is it possible that the low pressure pump--while beneficial to prevent gravitation at the main pump--isn't strictly necessary to fuel the engine? Or do I have a problem with a low pressure pump that's "always on," regardless of the selected tank?
89 3.0L - I seem to loose a little bit of coolant every time I drive maybe like 1/2 a pint?
I checked every connection - engine running, and even waited to make sure the t-stat was opening, and closed, etc (maybe it was the top hose, nope)
I did replace the radiator a couple of years ago, and had the problem ever since I did that, but at the same time, I also replaced the T-Stat with a 165 degree, since she was starting to run a bit on the hot side, even with the new water pump and radiator I did... on a cool day, it would run at the middle of the gauge with a 190 degree... and with AC on, hills and 95 degree days, it would be pushing upwards of 3/4 of the way on the gauge...
Could the 165 degree therm stat be somehow causing a 13 lb cap to not function properly? I replaced the original with a Stant... but Im thinking I should get a new Motorcraft OEM cap, since the other one lasted 20 years!
I kept the old radiator - love it - "wow real brass/copper in there!" it was still fine when I pulled it, but had a hairline crack right below the top hose area...
Anyways, pressure tests revel nothing, I see no bubbles or anything with the engine idling, cap off
Recently, with below 0 temperatures. there have been a couple of times where my van has trouble starting. I would turn the key forward and here a loud knock coming from the starter solenoid and nothing else. but after a couple of tries, it will crank and start right up no problem. so i figured maybe it just has to do with cold weather? but today it wouldn't budge at all. I've been doing some research and came across the possibility that my engine has seized.
I realized that after replacing the radiator, i never checked my oil level since my engine was over-heating prior to the fix and when i checked it today i found that it is a quart low. I guess, what my question is what would be the issue? is my engine really seized or is it the starter or solenoid? could it be some other electrical issue? what are the steps i could take in finding the problem?
I just bought a 2000 F250 SD 6.8 v10 and its mixing coolant in the block and leaking oil. I'm debating on just dropping a newer v10 in it but im just not 100% sure that this engine is shot. It runs great when there's oil in it and I can't even tell there's any problems going on for well over a couple hours after i fill it up with oil.
View 8 RepliesSon has a 1987 ford ranger 2.9 engine 5 speed 4x4 truck. See anti freeze leaking @ the rear of the engine where the intake attaches to the block. How long to re & re the intake, ect. Is it just gaskets or what? Is it a big job?
View 9 Replies1989 Shorty - 3.0
problem with washer fluid - the motor seems to work, but nothing comes out of the tubes...
I know the motor works, cuz there is water all over the engine compartment (near the battery) and down... soaked there...
so, my guess is that the rubber has come off the pump? where is the pump first off, and second, how do I get to all that? - just remove the cowl?
any diagrams or photos would be great!
I have a 89 ford mustang with 4 cylinder. After being stored for the winter I noticed anti-freeze leaking from drain tube below heater core (small amount). I am not looking forward to replacing the heater core in this car! Any reason this happened after the car sitting in storage all winter??? or just a coincidence??
View 7 RepliesI have a 1989 Ford mustang 4 cylinder. The return line tofuel tank is leaking. I am wondering if I need to treat the return line as a "high Pressure line" or if I can repair with regular rubber fuel line and hose clamps.
View 4 RepliesMy 89 2.9 has gotten water in the oil. One year ago I pulled this engine to replace the crank shaft (defective Ford design 1/2 thust bearing created a nasty grove in the crank allowing it to slide back and forth1/4 inch), new bearings, oil pump, timming chain, all seals and gaskets (not head gasket). The engine had great compression so I didn't do any thing more. Now I have a leak. No oil in water. NO compression leaking off into the water jacket. No "steam" coming from the exhaust. I've replace the intake manifold gasket. It showed signs of water leaking through the gasket, actually bubbles of water trapped inside, so I hoped this was it, but I still have water in the oil. I have now removed the intake and driver side head (head gasket shows now sign of leaking). No signs of water in cylinders. Is it possible to have a warped intake manifold? I have removed it twice, and I was told that some V6's need to be slowly removed VIA de-torque the bolts. I didn't do it the first two times I removed it, today I did. I plan to remove the passenger side head tomorrow. I will take the intake down and have it tested for warping. I have read many stories on this web site of the heads getting cracks, but they all seem to be in or near the valves, I assume that allows water to be burned off as a steam engine OR compression being pumped back into the water jacket.
Is there any other source of the leak that I'm missing? Is it possibly my intake? OR should I go ahead and replace the heads?
Found a tee on the heater hose leaks when it warms up. Appears the PO had noticed it but put a hose over it and now is leaking around behind the valve cover. This is a hard plastic line around 5/16. No online parts show it as being available. Is there a fix for this ?
I would bet several others have had this problem as it lays right on top of the flange of the valve cover where I think it would rub a hole pretty quick.
1989 Ranger 4X4 4 cylinder....
Ok all.. been working on the 88 getting it running (3.0L EB 2wd). It does run now pretty well.. definitely need some suspension work.. but that's a different post. I have had the rear main seal replaced and the oil pan gasket replaced to stop the oil leak. There is a lot less oil on the ground now.. but still leaves spots on the street. It appears oil is leaking down the oil pan from above and dripping off of it to the street. I also had the main cap bolts replaced (one was broken and the end was in the oil pan).
View 14 RepliesWe now have a new problem. Motor is leaking antifreeze out of what i will call a weeping hole in the on the #5 cylinder side of the block. The hole, which is manufactured in the block. Is where the antifreeze is seeping from. The hole is located above the bottom bolt an just below the top bolt for the transmission. the hole is on the block. I think that there might be a freeze out plug on the back of the motor block where the leak is coming from. The block was not leaking before we removed the heads for valve job.
View 3 RepliesI replaced my MC cap and gasket less than a year ago with a Dorman replacement and I'm leaking again, already. I don't want this to be an annual thing! Any good quality replacement? Is there any tip or trick to get the gasket to seal better?
View 9 RepliesMy father put my f150 into reverse he says he didn't gas it. It was 2-3 feet in between the cars and the hitch went into the bottom grill below the front license plate. Coolant is leaking from the left side between the radiator and the block. Now the trucks hitch didn't go far enough to hit the radiator, or anything else I can see. I have cleaned the coolant and am in the waiting process try to identify the location. I believe that it is oozing from the water pump ( most of the coolant is underneath it), on the other hand there is coolant also by the radiator just not as much. I have the ability to fix this just not the tools. My family is going to take it to the dealer ship I just do not want them to get finagled around.
View 3 RepliesPassenger side valve cover leaking. My local parts stores have two brands.
Fel-Pro and MAHLE Original.
Any comments, preferences, anecdotes? I don't want to do this job twice.