Ford Aerostar :: 1988 - Pulling Engine From Front?
Jan 25, 2017
Yes, I have photos of this, its possible, I did this twice!
View 14 RepliesYes, I have photos of this, its possible, I did this twice!
View 14 RepliesHad upper control arm bushings replaced in June. Van has been pulling slightly to the right. Assumed it could be the tire since the front tires were due for replacement. Took it yesterday for two new tires and it still has slight pull to the right.
Here's the rub. The chain shop that did the work has since replaced their alignment machine and the new one does not have the specs for vehicles earlier than 2000. The machine also doesn't have the capability for manual input of the specs.
The manager has found a competitor that has an older machine and has arranged to pay for the alignment which I consider over the top. Evidently this is a trend we can expect to continue because in a city the size of Tampa, he could find only one shop with an alignment machine capable of alignment on an Aerostar.
My 1988 Mustang 5.0 GT has stalled out once last year and again recently. Same situation. I drove it for 300 miles with stops about every hour and a half. Pushed to to 90 MPH at times. Ran fine other times on the road for more than two hours. But all of a sudden the engine dies. Electrical all works but won't turn over. If I sit in it for about 10 minutes, it will start and run for the next 5 to 10 minutes than a cough or two and pull over. I have had new plugs put in and also replaced the whole distributor. Ford mechanics have stared at it and scratched their heads and say it is running fine when they hand it back to me.
View 2 RepliesI've got an oddball '88 SWB with the M5OD transmission. Since I've had it (about a year now), its always required a lot of gas to get it rolling without it stalling after sitting overnight or during the day at work, especially putting it in reverse for the first time. The shifts have always been a little choppy/jerky/grabby/whatever you want to call it, too. Mostly going into first from a stop, but you can feel it other gears too, especially if you're not flooring it.
Anyway, it seems to have gotten worse and I'm getting to the point where I'm looking at a cause. One thought I had was oil contamination on the clutch discs, I know this will make a clutch feel "grabby". There is some sludge accumulation between the trans and engine, and it appears I may have a very slow leak there.
I have to change the trans fluid this weekend and am wondering if there's anything I should inspect while I'm at it -- I don't know a whole lot about the clutch system on this van and there's next to no information on it. Frankly, I don't even know if its hydraulic or cable.
I have a 94 EB AWD I am restoring and have recently picked up an 88 EB to restore as well. The 88 did not run. Here's a list of things done.. New head gaskets, new fuel pump, full tune up, radiator flush n fill, oil change, new transmission and rear seal, new battery, new iac valve, many new lights etc. Well here's where your expertise may come in.. the van starts and runs fine for the first minute or two, but when stopped at red lights the van wants to stall.. and while idling actually has stalled. I was going to replace the MAP sensor as I have found that sometimes causes idling issues. I assume the 88 does not have the MAF sensor to clean/replace? Any other things I could check before heading to the vaccuum lines? Also, both power mirrors are inop, the horn is inop and the gas gauge reads CO. I will check the fuses for those problems..
View 4 RepliesOk all.. been working on the 88 getting it running (3.0L EB 2wd). It does run now pretty well.. definitely need some suspension work.. but that's a different post. I have had the rear main seal replaced and the oil pan gasket replaced to stop the oil leak. There is a lot less oil on the ground now.. but still leaves spots on the street. It appears oil is leaking down the oil pan from above and dripping off of it to the street. I also had the main cap bolts replaced (one was broken and the end was in the oil pan).
View 14 RepliesI took the 88 out yesterday (3.0 with rebuilt transmission).. it looks like there is transmission fluid on the back (spots all over it).. I can only assume it's transmission fluid... I tried to wipe it off... but it was kind of a mist.. I assume the modulator should be checked? I'm not sure where it is or what it looks like though...
View 14 RepliesMy `88 Aerostar needs a replacement steering column. I believe everything can be swapped over therefore color of steering wheel does not matter. Cruise control buttons and tilt are a must. I would like to find one that is tight(er) and not sloppy floppy like mine is slowly becoming (143k miles).
View 1 RepliesI have an 88 EB, and every time I fill up the gas tank and park on my driveway (slight incline) gas leaks from the top of the tank. 3 different mechanics have checked it out completely and say there it nothing wrong - including the dealer that totally topped off the tank. Does this sound like a fill line to the tank? It only leaks until the gas gauge goes down a notch....
View 14 RepliesI jump started my wife's mini Cooper using my aerostar van 3.0l cargo. Her battery was so dead we had no luck after running my van for 8-10 min. There were a couple of attempts. My van suddenly died when she wasn't cranking the mini. It won't restart.
About one week prior I had a no start situation. I thought I had solved the problem. The first thing I did was listen for fuel pump engagement. I didn't hear it. I pulled the fuel pump relay and cleaned the connections. I put it back and the van started. I drove all week and then I get the call to jump start the mini.
So back to today. Fuel pump is engaging. I checked for spark at #4 cylinder with fuel relay disconnected so as not to flood the engine. I have spark. Battery is strong. I put a new fuel pump relay in place even though it appeared to be working properly. I had my wife crank the engine and the pink/blue wire at the fuel pump relay which goes to the pump lit up my voltage tester. Power appears to be present when cranking and not just initial engagement.
I'm thinking the original no start had nothing to do with the wire connections which I cleaned and it was just coincidence that it started and ran again for a week. The connections are now clean with a new relay attached and not starting. I'm thinking if I have spark and a fuel pump engaging then injectors may not be firing???
I have a 97 Aerostar. The door ajar light stays on, and something is pulling the battery down it's a slow pull, that takes a week to kill the battery. I have found the power leak is on Fuse #8 the door ajar fuse. I have replaced the sliding door closed button switch and the passenger door switch.
View 6 RepliesI replaced the water pump on my 3.0 and now, 9 months later, there is a coolant leak from the front engine cover (timing chain cover). The leak has probably been there two months or so, but it was so small initially, it was difficult to locate. A google search seems to indicate that a leak from the timing cover is somewhat common on the 3.0.
When I was doing the job, I noticed that some of the water pump bolts also hold the front cover in place, which seems like a bad design because removing those bolts takes some of the compression off of the timing cover gasket. Now that I have this leak, I'm wondering if changing the water pump is related to the leak. And, yes, I did use thread sealant on the bolts as recommended in the genuine Ford shop manual.
So now, I'm curious. Noticed a leak from the timing cover relatively soon after replacing the water pump on 3.0?
My mom has a 1988 350 Econoline van chasis that is a motorhome class C.
The front heater/AC blower motor only works when it wants to. It starts very intermittently and then shuts off then you go down the road a little more and it comes back on, it will do the same thing sitting in the driveway just idling. There is no timing it, it just turns on when it wants to and then back off again.
I checked the fuses and the fuses are fine. The blower motor when hooked up directly to the battery blows fine. When it isnt working of course there is no juice going to the blower motor through the hotwire of the blower motor, I have checked this with my volt meter.
I did replace the switch that turns the blower on in the dahs, and it didnt do the trick.
I just recently bought a used 2004 fx4 with 148k and everything appears to be engaging but front wheels not pulling. I've already replaced the IWE solenoid behind the battery to avail, my question is, when I put it in 4H, light comes comes on, but I don't "feel" the transfer case engage, when I put it in 4L, light on I feel it shift. So could the shift motor not be engaging the front driveshaft even though the lights come on?
View 10 RepliesAll I did was take wheel off to tap a stud and I saw the inboard pad shim came off. So I removed the shim and reinstalled everything and the wheel is severely pulling to the right. Yesterday I took the caliper off but did not take off hose, cleaned slide pins and lubricated with anti seize. Still pulling to right bad. Don't hear any squealing or grinding. But pass side wheel is definitely hotter than drivers side. One mechanic said he thinks it would be a bad hose before replacing caliper. What could it be?
View 8 RepliesI have a '88 F250 with a couple of dual tank issues, first of all if I'm running on the rear tank the fuel returns in the front tank.... not an isssue if trhe front tank is empty, but if both tanks are full the front tank will overflow. If the front tank is empty I run on the back tank until I'm out of gas and switch to the front and I"ll have about a half a tank in the front tank.
Second issue, running the front tank the fuel gauge stays on full until I have about half a tank, then it works OK. If I'm running the back tank it stays on full, even after the tank runs out of gas??
At my wits end on this. Left front brake is pulling ever so slightly on my '02 RWD Sport Trac. Just enough to annoy the crap out of me. Sometimes I hardly notice it. Over the past year or so I've flushed and bled the lines after replacing rear wheel cylinders, rebuilt the front calipers and replaced the rotors and pads. It's still pulling. Is there some electronic adjustment for the module that the brake lines come out of? Does the ECM control the pressures?
View 5 RepliesI just got a 99 Ford f150 with the 4.6. I am having problems getting the four wheel drive to engage. I turn the on the dash and the lights come on for four high and for four low. I have a 00 four by four and it works fine, so I know how to work it. In the 99 I can hear the transfer case engaging and everything clicks just fine just like it's going into fourwheel drive, but the front end is not pulling. The front drive shaft is turning but still the front end is not engaged. What the problem may be?
View 4 RepliesWell I've got an nice steady leak coming from the front of the pan.... running aft of course (downhill, windflow). She's down right now for an AC overhaul and new PS pump/hoses, but I'm inspecting to see what is next to get this stinking oil leakage stopped.
Front HB removal and seal of course, done in situ (in position). But if it is actually the oil pan/seal, can that be done there also? Front of the pan looks tight to the crossmember, and how the internals look (tray baffles, pump pickup) I've no clue if it will come off. Once she is back up and running I'll ascertain where this leak originates.
Interweb searches show the 90-94 4.0L engine is notorious for pan gasket leaks. None of the writeups I've found thus far determine if that pan can be pulled where she sits.
The van started going "clickity pop clickity pop" around corners the other day. I got under to inspect the CV boots and yep the drivers side outer CV boot is ripped all the way round, and the grease has been flung out of it all over the place.
I got a new axle assembly rather than rebuild mine. I am a little bit scared of this repair because it was what killed my audi 5000 turbo I had.
I am assuming i have to take the wheel, brakes, tie rod, off of the spindle. Then drop the lower arm, axle nut? Then the flange bolts on the inner portion of the shaft that mounts to the differential? I don't have the right chilton manual to look at!
On my audi, I never got the torque of the axle nut right and i kept ruining hub bearings. Those are a royal pain to change, and I don't want to do that on this van!
When braking from very low speed to full stop (f.e. parking maneuvers), i often hear a loud "pop" coming from the front brakes, regardless of steering direction. I'm pretty sure this has been discussed before here but can't find a thread.
Brakes are otherwise working good (front & rear) but it's time to do a maintenance just to be safe.
97' XLT RWD, 3.0L Vulcan, 99890miles - can't wait to see turning over to 100'000.. hope, i do not miss the moment