Ford Aerostar :: 1988 - Oil Leaking Down The Pan From Above And Dripping Off Of It
Nov 4, 2011
Ok all.. been working on the 88 getting it running (3.0L EB 2wd). It does run now pretty well.. definitely need some suspension work.. but that's a different post. I have had the rear main seal replaced and the oil pan gasket replaced to stop the oil leak. There is a lot less oil on the ground now.. but still leaves spots on the street. It appears oil is leaking down the oil pan from above and dripping off of it to the street. I also had the main cap bolts replaced (one was broken and the end was in the oil pan).
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I have a 94 EB AWD I am restoring and have recently picked up an 88 EB to restore as well. The 88 did not run. Here's a list of things done.. New head gaskets, new fuel pump, full tune up, radiator flush n fill, oil change, new transmission and rear seal, new battery, new iac valve, many new lights etc. Well here's where your expertise may come in.. the van starts and runs fine for the first minute or two, but when stopped at red lights the van wants to stall.. and while idling actually has stalled. I was going to replace the MAP sensor as I have found that sometimes causes idling issues. I assume the 88 does not have the MAF sensor to clean/replace? Any other things I could check before heading to the vaccuum lines? Also, both power mirrors are inop, the horn is inop and the gas gauge reads CO. I will check the fuses for those problems..
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I took the 88 out yesterday (3.0 with rebuilt transmission).. it looks like there is transmission fluid on the back (spots all over it).. I can only assume it's transmission fluid... I tried to wipe it off... but it was kind of a mist.. I assume the modulator should be checked? I'm not sure where it is or what it looks like though...
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Yes, I have photos of this, its possible, I did this twice!
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My `88 Aerostar needs a replacement steering column. I believe everything can be swapped over therefore color of steering wheel does not matter. Cruise control buttons and tilt are a must. I would like to find one that is tight(er) and not sloppy floppy like mine is slowly becoming (143k miles).
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I have a 1990 Aerostar 4WD, 4L, with about 120k miles. About 6 months ago I started my van and noticed under it that gas was dripping onto the exhaust at the Y-joint and evaporating. I shut off the van and drove another car to work. That evening with fire extinguisher at hand I drove my car up on ramps and quickly got under it looking for the leak. NOTHING. 6 months later...yesterday. I drove for a few blocks from home and notice heavy gas fumes etc. Stopped the van and again gas was dripping onto the Y-pipe joint.
This was an explosive situation... I pulled off the doghouse cover and saw, smelled and touched gas friom on the right top of the engine near the back. My questions are: What could randomly be leaking at this location and is it fixable without pulling the engine. I pushed the van to a secure location and am afraid to turn it on. Maybe I will drain the gas tank before then. I am just now trying to find the schematics for the fuel line delivery stuff. Where to go for a manual.
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I have an 88 EB, and every time I fill up the gas tank and park on my driveway (slight incline) gas leaks from the top of the tank. 3 different mechanics have checked it out completely and say there it nothing wrong - including the dealer that totally topped off the tank. Does this sound like a fill line to the tank? It only leaks until the gas gauge goes down a notch....
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I jump started my wife's mini Cooper using my aerostar van 3.0l cargo. Her battery was so dead we had no luck after running my van for 8-10 min. There were a couple of attempts. My van suddenly died when she wasn't cranking the mini. It won't restart.
About one week prior I had a no start situation. I thought I had solved the problem. The first thing I did was listen for fuel pump engagement. I didn't hear it. I pulled the fuel pump relay and cleaned the connections. I put it back and the van started. I drove all week and then I get the call to jump start the mini.
So back to today. Fuel pump is engaging. I checked for spark at #4 cylinder with fuel relay disconnected so as not to flood the engine. I have spark. Battery is strong. I put a new fuel pump relay in place even though it appeared to be working properly. I had my wife crank the engine and the pink/blue wire at the fuel pump relay which goes to the pump lit up my voltage tester. Power appears to be present when cranking and not just initial engagement.
I'm thinking the original no start had nothing to do with the wire connections which I cleaned and it was just coincidence that it started and ran again for a week. The connections are now clean with a new relay attached and not starting. I'm thinking if I have spark and a fuel pump engaging then injectors may not be firing???
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My 1988 Mustang 5.0 GT has stalled out once last year and again recently. Same situation. I drove it for 300 miles with stops about every hour and a half. Pushed to to 90 MPH at times. Ran fine other times on the road for more than two hours. But all of a sudden the engine dies. Electrical all works but won't turn over. If I sit in it for about 10 minutes, it will start and run for the next 5 to 10 minutes than a cough or two and pull over. I have had new plugs put in and also replaced the whole distributor. Ford mechanics have stared at it and scratched their heads and say it is running fine when they hand it back to me.
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I've got an oddball '88 SWB with the M5OD transmission. Since I've had it (about a year now), its always required a lot of gas to get it rolling without it stalling after sitting overnight or during the day at work, especially putting it in reverse for the first time. The shifts have always been a little choppy/jerky/grabby/whatever you want to call it, too. Mostly going into first from a stop, but you can feel it other gears too, especially if you're not flooring it.
Anyway, it seems to have gotten worse and I'm getting to the point where I'm looking at a cause. One thought I had was oil contamination on the clutch discs, I know this will make a clutch feel "grabby". There is some sludge accumulation between the trans and engine, and it appears I may have a very slow leak there.
I have to change the trans fluid this weekend and am wondering if there's anything I should inspect while I'm at it -- I don't know a whole lot about the clutch system on this van and there's next to no information on it. Frankly, I don't even know if its hydraulic or cable.
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Last night I noticed oil on my driveway. I got up under my truck and it was dripping at the trans. I'm not sure that's where it's actually leaking from because the other side of the oil pan had clean oil on the outside of it. What this could be?
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I have an 05 ex v10 4x4 with 3.73 gears, Was towing my camper (9000#s fully loaded) after about 100 miles pulled off highway and tranny fluid was dripping out of a grommet in the bell housing. Dripping right on the exhaust and it looked like it was on fire.
All gauges showed everything running cool. Checked fluid and couldn't see any loss. Continued to our location and it seemed to stop. Checked tranny fluid continuously and never really showed much loss. Just enough to cause smoke on pipes.. Drove home and stopped leaking. Got two miles from house and started again.
Tranny temp gauge never moved. Does seem to work because I watch it heat up and then stays at the same temp always. This was a 400 mile roundtrip here in flat Florida in the 90's.
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1988 ranger, its a automatic 4x4 v6 and is leaking tranny fluid real bad. Truck barley moves because fluid comes straight out...
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I replaced my MC cap and gasket less than a year ago with a Dorman replacement and I'm leaking again, already. I don't want this to be an annual thing! Any good quality replacement? Is there any tip or trick to get the gasket to seal better?
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My 98 Honda Civic is leaking antifreeze. The man at the oil change place said that I need a new head gasket. But when I look at the engine with the motor running, I see that the fluid is dripping from something I believe is called the water outlet cover. This is on the far left side of the motor where the top radiator hose connects. Can I safely assume that the water outlet gasket is truly the problem and is a cheaper fix?
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Passenger side valve cover leaking. My local parts stores have two brands.
Fel-Pro and MAHLE Original.
Any comments, preferences, anecdotes? I don't want to do this job twice.
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My wife's 89 Aerostar is leaking brake fluid from the back side of what is either the distribution block or combination valve. I am not sure which it is but it is the first block you run into following the lines from the master cylinder and it is right below it near the fender well.
The part has been discontinued and is too expensive anyway so I am looking for input as to what this peice is and if / how to rebuild it.
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I got a 97 aerostar from my parents. Front Shocks are done for (seals leaking). Any good brands? Does one just unbolt and replace shocks or do they have the mcpherson strut assemblies. It only has 48,000 miles on it. No rust and pretty good condition overall.
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If after you shutdown a engine, and a fuel injector is leaking. Is there any sign to look for, that can pin point this problem.
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I'm about 90% sure this is the cause of my nuisance leak on my 93 Aero. Upon inspection, I see tiny cracks (some near 1mm wide, most less) longitudinally down the factory seams (gutters) in the roof. I've had a small leak which manifests itself right above the drivers rear cubby hole (jack within).
Unless I hear otherwise, plan to buy a caulking tube of Butyl rubber sealant from NAPA and run beads the full length of the roof in each corner of those seams. Of course, prepped first for adhesion. I need another 100K out of this Van!
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Proud owner here of a '96 3.0L RWD Aerostar Utility Van with about 138k miles, and leaking power steering fluid. At this point I'm replacing fluid from zero every time I have to drive it which is about once a week. I've located the leak and it seems to be coming from the pump/reservoir around the pressure hose. The hose is loose as in i can move it around a bit, but from what I've read, this is normal and the hose is supposed to be like that. I figure that at this mileage, with so much air going through the pump, all the crazy squealing and whining it does even when full, at this point it probably makes sense to replace the whole pump while I'm in there, as opposed to just doing the reservoir. Anyway, I'm planning to do this in a couple of weeks, and have some questions...
1) The pump - I've read on this forum that the best way to go on brand of the pump is Motorcraft.
2) Hoses - I'd like to replace the hoses coming out of the pump while I have this thing all taken apart, but I'm not exactly sure what parts to get. I know one is the pressure and one is the return, but there are variations of each based on the research I've done. The parts on the Napa site have different descriptions like "with switch port", "without switch port" "56in hose" "26in hose", and so on. Which ones I need, specifically the ones connecting directly to the pump? I havent been able to find anything in my research online, in Haynes, or Chiltons manuals.
3) Washers - Whether or not I replace the hoses, should I replace the washers at the connection point? Chilton's seems to recommend replacing them. Will they come with the new pump?
My local auto parts shop has the pulley remover/installer for me to rent so I've already got that squared away. I'm pretty sure I've covered all of my bases otherwise.
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