Ford Aerostar :: 1986 - Shifter Is Sloppy / Often Hard To Find 4th When Downshifting From 5th
Jun 12, 2011
I have an '86 Aerostar with the 2.3 four and 5-speed stick. The shifter is sloppy, and it's often hard to find 4th when downshifting from 5th, and sometimes, it shifts hard through all the gears. Other times, it works fine. The manual says that this shifter was used from 86 to 89 only. Did they use the same one on Rangers? Can I buy a rebuild kit? Or, is this a sign of some other problem such as the clutch slave cylinder?
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My mom's 95 shifter is slowly getting worse. Right now it's at the point where we have to hunt for gears just to put it into park or reverse or d/od. It's not stiff like the rest of ours, hers is all sloppy and loose. She says it's been doing this for a while, but i think it got worse when i pulled her cluster out to change the light bulbs. I say this because i couldn't get the needle cable un done, so i just let the cluster rest on it while i was changing the bulbs, which put a little bit of tension on it.
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Catfish is a '96 4wd extended doggie RV, with 175k. It has developed transmission selector problems in the last few weeks.
The shift selector stops seem to be going soft. It's not to bad going from P to OD, but I have to fiddle with the lever almost every time I put it into reverse.
Particularly harrowing when trying to do a quick turn around in traffic. What's going on here and what I need to do to fix it.
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I've been experiencing the ever so popular sloppy shifter lever in my 02 excursion. So naturally I started prowling around the site looking for answers to my issues. I have ensured both of the torx bolts are present and tight at the end of the shift tube on the bracket that connects to the shifter cable and have replaced the shift tube (It was worn out) and it worked great but has not completely fixed the issue so today I crawled underneath the truck to try and adjust the shift cable and have found that the detent in the shift linkage from the gear position sensor that runs to the shift mechanism (not sure what it's called) that is inside the transmission is really nonexistent, it is effortless to move it from P to R but from R to N is good and stiff like it should be but from N to D and D to 2 is effortless. I have zero experience with what creates the detent inside of the transmission and looking for a link or pictures or write up something that I can look over and attempt to educate myself on before I dive in to this blind....
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Having trouble with shifter not going into park. The linkage is sloppy. Is there a bushing kit or something to tighten up the linkage?
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98 f150 4x4 5.4... So i purchased this truck about 3 months ago and now I am having problems putting it in Park. The column shifter is very loose and sloppy. Is there any way to rebuild this?
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I have my GTi, a week ago I broke an axle. I was then convinced by friends the clutch went out. So I said screw it and bought a Southbend Stage 2 Daily. When I get it I go to install it, then find out I have a Broken half shaft. So after taking the tranny out to install the clutch anyways and everything goes alright for the most part. (250k miles so that's why I never returned new clutch)
SO I get everything together. Tires spins. Car goes all is good.
Clutch is super spongy as I need to bleed it. But my problem is the shifter knob is super sloppy. Feels like is a whole section lower. It's hard to engage second as I have to double tap it in with a good throw. Everything is right on the shift tower. And seems like it clicks right into all the gears. But the physical knob feels super sloppy and out of place. First, third and 5th are all super far up and seems like it double clicks after putting it into gear. Like if there was a gear above. Kinda weird to explain. I've done the home alignment on the tower and nob, but only have a bolt that was 4.71 mm. So the cables should be really close to being aligned right. But I can't grab second at high Rpms.
I also need to do my drain and fill. So would it be a drain and fill and clutch bleeding will fix my sloppy shifter? Before I did everything it was tight. Felt right.
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Ok .. here is my problem 86 Aerostar up until 3 days ago ran perfectly. plenty of power, idled great no misses, well the other day i washed her up, inside and out. 1sr time in almost a year (gross) so under the hood i see that the air ducts were kind of loose, so i tightened up the clamps. and later drove to the store and low and behold she won't idle and she surging, forward to today i drove to Wrigley auto store and barely made it. connected to their hand-held scan tool and performed the KOEO test and got a undefinable code referring me to a website i then performed the koer test and it would NOT complete the diagnostic for whatever reason, i again performed the KOEO test and it gave me a 22 MAP sensor and O out of range. I could not locate the mass air flow sensor, as everything i read the past 2 days pointed me in that direction. I picked up some cleaner to take off the throttle body and TPS and IAC to clean them 2 parts. am doing that now .. i will return with my results from that shortly ... What/ where this MAP sensor i believe the Chilton manual says that the areostar has the MAF sensor but again i could not locate it
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I have an '86 Aerostar with a noisy rear end. I've had it checked by both my mechanic, and a transmission shop, and they both say it's the differential, not the wheel bearings. The quote to rebuild is expensive, so I'm looking for a replacement. My question is: What years will interchange with my 2.3, 5-speed '86 Aerostar?
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1986 3.0 liter. I have a problem, concerning no power. The van starts and idle is slow and a bit rough. Something is not allowing the engine to spool up much past an idle, thus moving past 10 mph is not an option. When you try to rev it, it's like it's either starved of fuel or the ignition advance isn't working. As it is basically winter, with a temperature today of about 25F or less, it was suspected that I'd put in bad fuel (as in, containing water) and possibly the system is partially froze.
When I turn on the key, I can hear the fuel pump pressurize and then shut down, as it normally does. Gas line antifreeze was added but no change; we limped the vehicle at 15 miles or less for almost 2 hours. Likely if the fuel system had ice in it, it would've cleared out by then. As it happened on the road, I'm at the mercy of a shop of which/whom I do not know. Would it be advisable to instruct the mechanic to check for fuel at the "Schneider" or fuel pressure release value, located near the manifold?
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I went to put the van in park, and the gear shifter just went all floppy in my hand. I was able to wiggle/jostle it around and get it into neutral or drive, but nothing else. Tow truck driver crawled under the van, and put it into drive for me, and told me it was probably just going to need a new cable or link shaft (tube shaped thing)... My hubby usually fixes these things, but is now living 1700 miles away.
Anyway, the shop called me and said I needed a new steering column, and said something about the 'lower' cap or half??? He quoted me $340 for the job. I am not getting the connection between the gear shifter being loose/floppy and the steering column needing to be replaced? Is this right?
It is a 1993 Aerostar, 3.0 by the way...
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I drove our 95 3.0l aero to work today, I was going to a job 45 miles away. It sounded like it was revving awfully high for 65-70mph, but the gear selecter said od, so I figured I was just crazy. Got to the job and tried to back up and the shifter wouldn't go into reverse. Parked for the day after realizing the shifter would go N and down, but not into rev or park. Apparently it was revving high, as the gear indicator was now off and I was no doubt in drive, driving to work. I got it home, then had to drop my daughter at work, by staying in OD.
Then on the way home the van just DIES while going 35+- mph. Won't restart, smelled gas after many many attempts to start. Towed home. NO spark. I have 12+ volts at+coil. I tried my ignition module and a new one, neither sparked at the coil wire. I bought a new coil, then checked resistance at + &-, and - and coil output post. Basically same resistance new & old coil. Did my hall effects or cam, or crank sensor just go out or? Why both problems same day? I thought if it was the coil or ignition module, maybe it got too warm on drive revving high. Does a 95 3.0 coil get triggered by the distrib haal effects or does the crank sensor do it?
I can easily see one of those being bad as they are original, with 334,000+ miles. All the tune up, coil, wires, plugs, ign module, cap, rotor, were replaced 55,000 miles ago. ALSO does this distrib have a TFI module on it? My book says to pull the distrib and remove it, like my 5.0l Mustang, but I don't see one, I think thats the ignition module on the pass. inner fender. I'd like to see if I can get 400,000 miles out of it.
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I got this code and symptoms of 1-2 hard shift and no torque converter lockup. No flashing overdrive light on shifter. If I switch off engine all shifts are smooth until I pass 45mph. I would feel the TCC lockup. This doesn't happen the as i come to a stop I get a harsh 2-1 shift. Key off restart then shifts smoothly up and down provided I dont exceed the TCC lockup speed. This leads me to the TCC solenoid I think. Fluid has been changed regularly.
Had to drive 300 miles to get home. Only for the plate trans cooler the fluid would have overheated as on inclines on cruise control the engine would rev to 3k to keep the speed at 70mph and I could see the fluid temp increasing. Fuel consumption was very bad almost a full tank (with no ac). Doing some research there is talk about valve gasket blowout Epc solenoids etc, though these were for Rangers and Explorers, no real mention of Aerostar.
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My 2009 downshifts hard between 2nd and 1rst gear. Real distinct when stopping at a stop sign. I have 81,000 on it. I looked at older forum's and they said flashing the computer would assist. Just curious if it works for a vehicle with that many miles on it, or if it may be a more serious problem.
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I tow a car hauler that is about 8000 lbs. On my last trip occasionally when the truck would downshift into 5th under a load, it would bang in there pretty hard. Not a smooth transition, not every time just some times. Just wondering it that was normal or the start of a potential issue.
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I'm having Hard start when Hot problems, starts fine when cold. It takes a couple of minutes of cranking for ICP numbers to hit 500.
So far I've replaced:
ICP sensor
IPR
Injector O-rings.
Still didn't fix the problem.
I also washed out the engine, and put uv dye in the oil, let it run, to find any external leaks, but I found nothing. I don't thing it's the HPOP, because it's able to sustain high ICP numbers when I hold down the throttle.
My next step was to remove the HPOP and replace all it's o-rings, but I assume since I don't see any leaks, the o-rings aren't the problem. Is there anything else to check, that could be causing low crank ICP numbers when hot?
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Got an '01 f350 v10, auto. When using steering column shifter tends to be hard to find reverse and drive. Is it something in steering column selector or is it in tranny? The truck has 40,000 miles on it. Have a parts truck also so just trying to figure out where to start first.
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Rebuild on the Mazda 5 speed transmission. My 1986 Ranger 2.3 Four cylinder has 280,000 miles and the clutch has never been replaced. It's not slipping but I'm having trouble getting it into gear from neutral. Was told that the release springs on the clutch plate have weakened causing the clutch to not release completely so figured it's time to replace it. It's done well the last 280,000 miles. The question I have : overhauling on one of these Mazda trans and how difficult was it. Any special tools required, etc...I see Autozone has a rebuild kit which appears to have bearings, seals and gaskets. Figured while it was out I would go ahead and rebuild it myself if I can. Rebuilt a few engines but never touched a trans.
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My 40 Ford pickup is on an 86 Ranger chassis and uses the stock Ranger steering gear. My question is about the connections on the steering box. I'm using a GM power steering pump and several steering gear vendors have told me that outside of needing to adjust the pressure for the correct feel, the combo works. I fired the truck for the first time tonight but the steering wheel went crazy, shaking around and finally spinning on it's own to a hard left.
Some quick research leads me to believe that I have the lines reversed but it would be great to know for sure. I did manage to find on e diagram of a Ford PS box on Google and it shows the lines reversed of what I have set up on my truck and I can't for the life of me remember how I figured out what the plumbing should be when I installed it. Which port on the box is the inlet and which is the return?
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After the hard downshifting full throttle highway run low speed stomp on it freeway cruising tires spinning on gravel crawling through town day yesterday -
my tranny just doesn't know what to do!! One thing that it does like to do is make that 6.2 spin and sing! Eventually we'll be on the same page so we can work and play seamlessly.
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My car is downshfting kinda hard from 2nd to 1st I guess, it's just before I stop. What's causing this? It's a 2002 V6 4Motion.
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