Ford Aerostar :: 1986 - No Power / Idle Is Slow And A Bit Rough
Nov 11, 2014
1986 3.0 liter. I have a problem, concerning no power. The van starts and idle is slow and a bit rough. Something is not allowing the engine to spool up much past an idle, thus moving past 10 mph is not an option. When you try to rev it, it's like it's either starved of fuel or the ignition advance isn't working. As it is basically winter, with a temperature today of about 25F or less, it was suspected that I'd put in bad fuel (as in, containing water) and possibly the system is partially froze.
When I turn on the key, I can hear the fuel pump pressurize and then shut down, as it normally does. Gas line antifreeze was added but no change; we limped the vehicle at 15 miles or less for almost 2 hours. Likely if the fuel system had ice in it, it would've cleared out by then. As it happened on the road, I'm at the mercy of a shop of which/whom I do not know. Would it be advisable to instruct the mechanic to check for fuel at the "Schneider" or fuel pressure release value, located near the manifold?
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Ok .. here is my problem 86 Aerostar up until 3 days ago ran perfectly. plenty of power, idled great no misses, well the other day i washed her up, inside and out. 1sr time in almost a year (gross) so under the hood i see that the air ducts were kind of loose, so i tightened up the clamps. and later drove to the store and low and behold she won't idle and she surging, forward to today i drove to Wrigley auto store and barely made it. connected to their hand-held scan tool and performed the KOEO test and got a undefinable code referring me to a website i then performed the koer test and it would NOT complete the diagnostic for whatever reason, i again performed the KOEO test and it gave me a 22 MAP sensor and O out of range. I could not locate the mass air flow sensor, as everything i read the past 2 days pointed me in that direction. I picked up some cleaner to take off the throttle body and TPS and IAC to clean them 2 parts. am doing that now .. i will return with my results from that shortly ... What/ where this MAP sensor i believe the Chilton manual says that the areostar has the MAF sensor but again i could not locate it
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I have a 1986 Celica GT-S with 50,000 original miles on it. Car starts perfectly fine in the morning, runs fine, no issues. Problem happens when the engine is warm, and I let it cool off for about 10 minutes or so, at that point, when I try and turn the engine over, it would sometimes turn over and idle very rough, or sometimes it would die and I have to give it gas to keep the engine running. Once I am able to get it in gear and drive, the engine rpm would recover and go back to normal. I have new NGK wires, denso iridium spark plugs.
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Symptoms: (162K miles, last tune up about 70K miles ago) rough idle, and poor acceleration. Occasionally, the car really jerks while accelerating. I read about new plugs/wires, and something called seafoam. I think the highway patrol would pull me over as a gross polluter, but that too seems worth a try. Various sensors and hoses, I'm frankly overwhelmed. Where to start?
Something I learned today: My car was made in 10/95. Apparently, I can scan for trouble codes?!? How and where? Is it OBD I or II or something else? Dumb question: I can't even get the interior engine shroud off. I found three clamps, but it still hangs up near the top. What am I missing?
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1992, shory 3.0 130K MILES
On start up runs very rough, will stall if not power braked or revd a little on start up/out of the driveway.
VOLT METER STARTS GOING NUTS!!
After a mile/warm up,,, runs great. But sometimes even when its hot, it will still try to do the rough idle briefly after just a few minutes restart. Give it a few revs at that point and its good. And once in a blue moon it will do it randomly at a stop light,, out of the blue. Very rare
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Well I was afraid this was going to happen. About a two years ago, several months after I replaced the heads on the van that at the time was my brothers, the ignored a squeaking pulley. One day that pulley seized and broke the belt. My brother was not watching the gauges closely, and didn't realize anything was wrong other than the clunk noise that happened when the belt was thrown. That was until he went to turn, and the power steering was gone. He looked at the gauges at that point, and the heat was pegged out on the gauge. So he pulled it over and shut it down. I came and towed him to a shop where it could be fixed.
But I fully understand that when an engine gets overheated, especially if the heat build up was rapid, the heads warp. I also understand that the head gasket will usually seal anyway, so the failure does not often happen at the time of the overheat.
Well, it finally let go the other day. Started noticing a rough idle and an obvious misfire. Removed the cap and there is a steady stream of small bubbles when the engine is running. There is also more corrosion than should be in the cooling system for how recently the coolant was replaced.
It is not overheating right now, but isn't this a lovely time for a major problem to occur. Anyway, I took it in, and hopefully they will have it finished before I need it again. My van performs truck roles, including towing and all of my fathers trucks are either too small or on deaths door. I'm sure it would drive most of you nuts anyway, but do not ignore squeaking pulleys.
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I just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
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I have an '86 Aerostar with a noisy rear end. I've had it checked by both my mechanic, and a transmission shop, and they both say it's the differential, not the wheel bearings. The quote to rebuild is expensive, so I'm looking for a replacement. My question is: What years will interchange with my 2.3, 5-speed '86 Aerostar?
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I have an '86 Aerostar with the 2.3 four and 5-speed stick. The shifter is sloppy, and it's often hard to find 4th when downshifting from 5th, and sometimes, it shifts hard through all the gears. Other times, it works fine. The manual says that this shifter was used from 86 to 89 only. Did they use the same one on Rangers? Can I buy a rebuild kit? Or, is this a sign of some other problem such as the clutch slave cylinder?
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I finally finished installing my VF stage 2 supercharger. I fired it up and the idle is low (around 500 rpms) and a very rough idle. Throttle response is very slow, when it finally revs the car stalls. I can also hear a leak somewhere near the throttle body. I have an SAI block off plate. 630cc injectors and UM tune. No CEL
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Here's the run down:
-bought 6 months ago for cheap because it wouldn't pass smog test
-changed Purge Control Valve (PCV) and it passed
-filled with gas, heard popping noises like a backfire, and coded it read the same "Bank 1 and Bank 2 running lean, like it did before the PCV and then also "Cylinder 3 Misfire" appeared.
-At this point the car started running rough, at idle, and through acceleration...sputtering uphill, and when climbing through the gears.
-Changed the plugs & wires
-NOW, it's cylinder 5 misfiring, and not nearly as bad. It's idling and running rough, acceleration has somewhat come back, but it's definitely not 100%.
Should I start with the PCV again, since it's not starting after I fill the tank, and climbing gears slow? Is there anything else I should be checking?
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2008 Dodge Avenger SXT Sedan GEMA 2.4L DOHC I4 / 4 speed automatic75,000 miles Moderately well taken care of (oil change every 3,000 miles, mostly follows recommended maintenance in owner's manual)
Symptoms:
*Car runs and drives fine while the car is in constant motion and decelerating.
*Rough and Slow Idle at a stop on the brakes with car in Drive. Engine speed will drop below ~400 RPM, then "kick" up to ~1,200 RPM, settle back to 'normal' idle ~800 RPM, repeat. I have suggested she put the car in Neutral at a stop to see if that changes anything, but I don't have feedback from her yet. One instance of seeing a puff of smoke from under the hood while the car was doing the above.
*When pulling away from a stop, the car will hesitate; that is the accelerator will be pressed but the throttle response will be delayed.
*When pulling away from a stop acceleration will be inconsistent; instead of rrrrrRRRRRRRRRR, it's more like rrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRR
*Couple instances where the car just shut off while she was parallel parking (low engine speed).
*One instance where the car did not start on first attempt. Started fine on second attempt.
*No Check Engine Light. The codes have been run.
Shop Visits (at an independent garage recommended by her roommate who's been going there for 5+ years, good reviews on yelp, and always busy):
*First visit: told her they put in a bottle of fuel system cleaner and to use a tank of high octane gas. That didn't really work.
*Second visit: cleaned the throttle body. That was 3 days ago, so far no conclusion either way.
Other repairs:
*The battery was checked (at O'Reilly) and replaced after the starting incident mentioned above. (5 year old car, seems about right).
*2 nights ago I told her to put in a bottle of HEET to get water out of the fuel system (California uses ethanol blend) and a bottle of Gumout Fuel System Cleaner and to fill up with premium gas (based on items below). Be sure to run that tank down to almost empty.
Things I could think of:
*Crankshaft/camshaft position sensor failing.
*Alternator failing (because this problem doesn't seem to exist at higher RPM's)
Research online: It seems that a number of people have similar problems with Chrysler products with this and the previous generation 2.4L engine but no clear conclusive repair. Some of the items mentioned:
*Idle Air Control (IAC)
*Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
*New sparks plugs and wires. (not replaced but should be)
*New timing belt. Timing belt is one tooth off.
*Water in the Fuel System (hence, HEET)
*Dirty/Clogged Fuel System Component (hence, fuel system cleaner)
*Failing Fuel Pump
*Dirty/Clogged Air Filter (replaced per maintenance manual)
*Low Oil Pressure/Failing Oil Pump
*Additionally, there are no recalls against her VIN.
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Got a 1996 Volkswagen Cabrio with around 125k miles. Recently the check engine light came on. Had the code pulled (P0133 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response) and reset but it came back on shortly thereafter. I've also noticed that the car idles strangely, generally after it has warmed up a little bit. Basically it will idle rough and sound as though it might choke out but if you give it a little gas it goes back to a normal, even idle.
Right now it's getting around 20+ MPG average which seems a little low but I only purchased it 3 months ago so I don't have much to compare it against. One other thing I've noticed is that the plastic molding around where the gas nozzle goes in is cracked which makes it difficult to fill it up since it doesn't make a good seal unless you position the gas nozzle just right.
Any thoughts on whether either of these problems might be related to the weird idle? How hard is it to change the front 02 sensor?
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A friend of mine has an 86 Chevy 1/2 ton, all origional. His problem is that the truck is "slow" going into reverse, but once there, feels "solid". I haven't personally looked at the truck, and am not sure what his concept of "slow" is. I understand there's probably not enough information to determine the cause, but it doesn't hurt to try.
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My pops has a 86 ranger with a 2.9. And what its been doing is, it will start up just fine then u give it a minute and itll start to run very rough like a bad miss fire, then if he revs it up for a bit. It will clear out and then run just fine until he starts it up again and it seems to do it more the colder it gets and it smells very rich. Iv checked the injectors and there fine, what other things could it be ? O2 sensors oorrr
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I have an 86 F150 that is idling rough. It used to cut out on me until I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I have read in other posts that the problem for my rough idle could be leaking injectors. When I replaced the regulator I found a bad injector. My question is that if I check my fuel pressure, with the new regulator, would the only way I would lose pressure be that my injectors are leaking?
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Have a 2004 f250 that is having issues. Once the truck is started the idle goes from normal to loud almost sounds like its going to stall. A few weeks back the same happened when i was on a red light. It choked almost to where it was going to die. I accelerated when light turned green and would not move at all. I had to literally use full throttle to get out the road at about 5 mph. I pulled in to a gas station and fueled up as i had a quarter of diesel left and it stopped the rough idle and power starvation once i started the truck up again. It sees like this time its getting more persistent... FML AND THESE 6.0 problems
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I recently bought a 2004 6.0 extended cab truck. It has 223,000 miles on it and has been running great. Bought it here in Arkansas where I live and recently drove it to Texas and back after having just put some Hot Shot oil treatment cleaner in it. I ran it the 1000 miles as it suggests. Just the other day as it was hitting the 1000 mile mark the truck started to lunge/runaway and stalled. I finally got it back home and started looking into the issue. Based on what it was doing, (lunging/running away, and at idle in park random burst of rpms and then dying after doing it a few times), I started to do some research. Most of the answers I found claimed it was the IPR valve. I found that the IPR valve is supposed to, as claimed by some, be pulled and inspected every 100,000 miles are so and if need be replaced or the rebuild kit gotten for it. So I decided to just replace it as well as the oil, oil filter and fuel filters.
When replacing the IPR valve I noticed that it was original and that its screen was missing. I didn't have any problem moving the little piston in the center of the shaft with a small bolt however that doesn't really mean that it isn't bad. I tried a magnet to see if the screen was still in there and nothing came out. I did not try using a camera as I do not currently have one, to look inside the port to see if I saw it. After replacing the IPR valve with a brand new one and changing the oil I started the truck. It seemed to be running a little ruff so I let it warm up. Not one minute later the exact same thing started happening, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms), so I called it a night. The next morning I decided to change the fuel filters. No that it matters the order in which I did it, but I changed the top end filter first and the the one on the frame with the dealer recommended OEM filters as was the case with the oil. I did find in the filter on the frame that there was a small amount of sand and clay soil looking matter in the filter. I did clean out the filter housing as well.
After replacing the filters I started the truck to warm it up. I noticed that it was still running a little ruff but no random, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). However after five minutes it started coming back. I finished letting the truck warm up and took it for a drive. Got it up to between 7-80mph for about 15 miles to try and see if I could "blow out" whatever may be in the fuel if that was even an issue I do not know. The truck seemed to get more power and run a little more smoothly so I stopped at my buddies house not to far from where I was and let it idle. No issues other than a little ruff idle. After about 10min I took off towards home doing similar speeds. I noticed at a little over 2000rpms that the truck was shaking a little but so I dropped the speed down. When I got home not more than one min after idling the same issue, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms), started happening again.
At this point I took back to the interwebs and came across a post that said the ICP might be bad and does cause this issue, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). However I also noticed that this is a huge debate as to whether or not the ICP can cause this. Ford master mechanics say no and other mechanics say yes and round and round it goes. I decided to do the simple test many recommended which was to simply unplug the ICP and see if anything changes. Things did change. No more lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). Not more than two minutes after plugging it back in, allowing the computer to account for it now, the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) came back. In the middle of it doing this I unplugged it and that went away. So needless to say I replaced the ICP and voila the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) is gone but the ruff idle is still there along with a slight loss of power.
To answer some questions:
1. The oil and water are not mixing so I am almost positive that the heads are fine
2. The intercooler couplings are leaking a bit. I have ordered the new ones and will replace them as soon as they come in. Can this cause the issue?
3. I am blowing no white or black smoke except for when the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) issue was present and the truck almost died. It would knock occasionally when it almost died and would send a slight puff of black smoke which I assume is a low or high fuel issue from the truck trying to die
4. I have not had the no start issue at all
5. I did not see any debris in the oil during the oil change
6. I didn't do the air test on the ICP port as I do not have the adapter.
7. The only code I got on the IBD II port was when I unplugged the ICP which was to be expected
8. I found no damaged wires
I am at the point where I am wanting to take it to ford to have them run a diagnostic on it but am wondering if there is anything else I need to be looking for. Here are a few questions I have.
1. Does this sound like a bad injector? (When I bought the truck it would sound like a misfire or ruff idle condition was present for about 5-15 seconds and then it would smooth out with no issues. It would run a little ruff if you tried to take off without letting it warm up, which I did once or twice and low rpms, but when it warmed up no issues were present).
2. Could this be the HPOP?
3. Could this be the FCIM? (The previous owner had replaced the FCIM not to long ago with one from Ford I believe. Said it cost him something like $700)
4. Could this be something clogging the oil screen under the manifold?
My final question right now is do any of you know where or what brand OBD II reader or software I can get for a decent price that will tell me the voltage of each injector and FCIM is without me having to go to Ford to get it looked at.
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Dad has a 01 one ton with the 7.3 and isn't real tech savvy so I'm posting for him. He is the original owner and has been complaining recently about the lack of power. Particularly the upper end. He is having to downshift way more often and where he used to not have to. And we've both noticed a very noticeable shake at idle. Not a vibration but a true shake. He changes the oil every 5000 on the dot and I've gone and changed the air and fuel filter and ran hose and see foam and royal purple injector cleaner through it with no results. Truck is all stock with 225000 on it.
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3, 159k on it. I bought it in March, ran AWESOME up till now. I was driving to work last week, check engine light came on, truck lost power and started idling rough. I have a buddy who works for a Ford dealer as a diesel mechanic, he came over with his scanner and laptop. #2,#4,#8 cylinders kept coming up saying possible problems are injectors, harness, rings.. He also did an electrical check, that all checked out. He told me to get injectors, so I got 4 injectors (yes I got the correct #8 injector), valve cover gasket, injector harness and 4 glow plugs.
The parts came last Friday, we did the job and it ran great. Drove it Friday night, Saturday, Sunday morning, no issues. Sunday afternoon we were on our way to a birthday party, truck started doing the exact same thing... Check engine light, rough idle, loss of power. After I got home from the party, my buddy came back over, put it on the scanner again, getting the same codes again. Deleted the codes, ran the tests again, same codes, deleted the codes, rant the tests again, same codes.
He said he is going to come by tomorrow with the box to check each individual cylinder.
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My truck died on the way home the other night. After pulling over it started right up but died three more times on the way home. Changed fuel filters, cps sensor which wasn't bad when tested, checked fuel pressure (60 psi), cleaned egr valve, fcim has 48 volts, batteries have 12 volts. Tried unplugging egr valve and icp sensor. Truck will start with icp unplugged . Ipr, stand pipes and dummy plugs were replaced last year when I purchased truck. Truck will run in park fine no issues idled normal, builds rpms and boost. Put it in drive when it gets warm rough idle and dies but starts right back up evertime. When truck doesn't die it has no power.
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