Ford A/C :: Volume Of Air Coming Out Of Vents Doesn't Seem To Increase When Go From Normal To Max
Aug 27, 2010
I just replaced the vacuum motor that opens and closes the Max Air door as it's diaphram was ruptured. Now it is working correctly, however when I go from normal to max the volume of air coming out the vents doesn't seem to increase. The door hasn't been working for about a year and I didn't realize why. Should the volume increase going to Max or just the air get colder from recirculating? In my Dodge the volume increases consderably. Could there be trash (leaves, things dropped through the defrost vents) partly blocking the air through the evaporator? How do I access to check and clean out? Remove the blower motor?
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I have a 2010 Camry XLE and just had the AC Evaporator Replaced. After the replacement, I have noticed problems with the AC fan. Specifically, when accelerating, the volume of air coming through the vents decreases. When stopped at traffic lights or when I take my foot off the accelerator, the AC air returns to normal. Even when idling in Park and then press the accelerating, I can feel less air coming out of the vents.
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The volume control on my stereo stopped working today. The radio turns on, but the volume controls do not increase/decrease the volume. It is stuck at whatever volume it was at before this problem started. When I turn the volume knob, I see the volume level numbers increasing and decreasing in the upper right corner of the touchscreen, but obviously the volume stays put.
2013 Sonata Limited 2.0T
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Sometimes the volume button on the stereo nor the buttons on the steering button do not increase or decrease the volume. I can turn the stereo on and off - still the same. If I turn the engine off and on - this issue goes away. It's only just started happening in the past few weeks.
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I recently got a 2002 f150 5.4. The fan speed works on 1 & 2, and 4. It does blow on level 3, but it seems to blow at the same cfm as level 2. I'm thinking this can't be right. But, if it was a simple resistor issue, it wouldn't run at all on level 3, right? So, where I should look first.
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My 02 Mountaineer doesn't have any air flow volume out of the heat, defrost, or a/c vents. The temp will change from hot to cold and the air direction will also change from floor, dash, windshield, etc. The a/c recirculation door also seems to be working. The fan sounds as it is running very fast, just not putting out any volume. What should I look for?
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We have a problem with my daughter's 2000 Ford Escort air conditioner. It has cold air but the blower doesn't put out any volume. We had a 1998 and it had the same problem but not this bad. Is this a problem for this car and worse for this year? How to increase the air flow?
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I picked up a nicely used 98 XL in Alabama yesterday, with 106k original miles. The dealer threw in FREE oil changes for life with my purchase, but I don't see me driving 2.5 hours to Alabama for that.
It's got crank up windows, manual locks, standard tranny, 4.2 V6, and the regular seats. Yep, pretty basic. It came with a matching fiberglass shell also. The only things wrong are the radio volume doesn't adjust, and the rear window frame appears cracked. These are minor in my opinion.
What drew me to this truck was the beautiful condition it's in and my love of this body style. What would be added to improve creature comforts, performance, etc.
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The MFD works and I can change modes and stations, but no volume with the audio. Nothing for bluetooth handsfree, am/fm/aux/cd, etc.
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My wife's 04 AWD 2.7 Santa Fe has developed a severe vibration. I have rotated tires, checked ball joints and tie rod ends, and had it aligned. The tires show very even wear and don't appear to have any bulges or broken belts. The vibration is so severe that the vents rattle louder than max radio volume, but it completely disappears in even the gentlest right turn.
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I recently picked up my 2015 GTI DSC Autobahn White and can max out the volume when using Bluetooth music streaming and the volume at the max level is at a substantially lower level than if I was using the radio or Sirius XM. Even at max level, it just doesn't seem that loud. I'm coming from an 2013 Audi Allroad and never noticed a big difference in volume levels when using Bluetooth music streaming. I haven't had a chance to test the volume when using the MDI cable since I'm waiting for the appropriate adapter for my iPhone 6. Should there be a big difference in audio levels with Bluetooth music streaming? Is there a setting that I need to adjust?
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I have a 2012 toyota camry with the JBL system. i replaced one of my factory door woofers with a aftermarket one. i cranked the volume up to the loudest, and then suddenly all the sounds going to all my speakers went dead.
I tried checking all the fuses that i saw said "Audio system" in both my engine bay and my driver instrument. Nothing was burnt out. even tried disconnecting the battery.
When i try to turn up or turn down the volume, no numbers show up. (showing which volume setting its at) its just blank.
Even tried the steering wheel volume control. I really don't know what else to check.
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I noticed last night when it's about 64F outside the air coming out of vent feels much warmer, this is with climatronic temp set to LO, re-circulate off and AC off. I've never seen this with my previous cars and I am wondering is this normal? I've tried Google this without much success ..
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I have a 2000 Ford Excursion v10 that won't divert air through any vent. Blower motor works through all speeds from low to high. I hear air being pushed around but doesn't go to any specific vent (barely comes out defrost and front vents though). Temperature Blend door and actuator for door work fine. Vacuum tested and no leaks. Opened up the glove box to expose heater core, noticed the vacuum actuated rod that sits to the left of the heater core is sloppy and barely moves up and down when controls are changed. I believe there is another vacuum actuator in the dash somewhere closer to the driver's side that may pose as a fault as well.
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I have a 2006 F-250 Super Cab with climate control. The last three years when the temp exceeds about 85 degrees outside it acts up. It will switch from the AC vents to defrost and blow normal air through, not ac cold. Then it will switch back, when doing so I can hear the internal deflector shudder. It will do this every few minutes. It is extremely annoying. All other times of the year it works fine. My local dealer had the truck last year, but could not find anything wrong. I have used the search and also Googled and while I find similar problems nothing exactly the same.
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I have absolutely loved my 2011 F-150 8 cyl since I bought it in 2013. I'm just now having my first issue...
For the past two weeks or so, I've had an issue with intermittently hard starting. It cranks like normal but doesn't turn over instantly. The longest its gone before starting has been about six seconds. Although originally happening only 10% of the time, its happening about 40% of the time over the past couple days. I had my mechanic take a look and the battery and starter all checked out fine.
Biggest problem was that it never did it for them making it hard for them to trouble-shoot. Thus far its always started, just takes an indescript amount of time in which to do it. The time of day doesn't seem to matter although afternoons in which I'm heading to lunch after being in the office for 3-4 hours seems the most common time.
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So, I purchased a 2004 Subaru forester at the in of 2013, from a private seller. When I turn on the a/c the air is warm, I thought maybe the refrigerant so low, so I check the level and it is good, the a/c compressor clutch engages, but warm air still comes out of the vents. I am asking what else could cause the a/c to blow warm air?
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Does it mean it's broken? I turned on the AC a couple times today and it was working fine. Just a few mins ago when I turn on the knob to to 1, there's no wind blowing out of the vents.
Just a few info in case you need to know: Weather temperature was hot today: 103 degrees. When the AC was working, I had the knob at level 2 the most. The car temperature was normal.
I always turn off the AC before I shut off the car.
I drive a 99 Passat 1.8T ....
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What kind of mpg increase one would see if they were to increase the tire pressures from recommended (35 F/33 R psi) to max (44 F/ 42 R). Any stats of tracked?
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Okay, so the car in question is a 2003 Escort ZX2 with roughly 110k on the clock. It's run like a champ up until now. My wife was driving it home from work the other day and said that there was a burning smell coming through the vents, then the coolant temp gauge on the dash went all the way to hot and stayed there, and the heat simultaneously stopped working.
She got it home and I quickly found out that the car IS NOT overheating. Something screwy is going on with the gauge and it will sit at cold for 10 minutes, then go all the way to hot, then sit in the middle, and it's just all over the place. However, the engine fan works fine and comes on at the appropriate time, the engine does not overheat at all, and other than the gauge acting weird and the heat not working, the car runs as it always has.
So, just a as a measure of preventative maintenance I replaced the thermostat, thermostat housing, and both clip-in coolant temp sensors on the thermostat housing. This seems to have fixed nothing, but oh well.
Next, I let the car heat up and checked the two hoses going to the heater core in the firewall. One hose is just slightly warm (even at full operating temperature) and the other is completely cold.
When you get in the car and attempt to turn the heat on, all the blower motor speeds work. When you turn the dial from cold to hot you can see under the dash that the cable that opens the blend doors is working fine as well. However, no heat at all, it's just cold air that comes from the vents even on the hottest setting.
The heater core isn't leaking at all, this has been confirmed.
So, I'm unsure where to go from here. The wacky coolant temp gauge seems like maybe it's the actual gauge itself that's gone south (in which case I'd need a new gauge cluster I suspect). The heat though perplexes me. Sure, the heater core could be plugged but that seems rather unlikely considering the coolant has always been regularly flushed and when you open up the radiator there's no gunk or rust or anything in the system at all.
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We did a Cody test and found the injector orings leaking and replaced them.
Did the test over and now hear air coming from the oil pan. Is that normal?
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