Ford A/C :: Truck Running Cold / Heat Is Barely Warm
Oct 3, 2010
MY 2000 Ford F150 4.2L v6 is running cold. I bought it this summer and it ran a hair above the cold line on the temp gauge. Now that it is cooling off it doesn't come off the cold line. I have drove it for an hour and it never move. The heat is barely warm. I thought it may have been a stuck open thermostat so I changed it out with a 195 and it did not work. I can let the truck run parked for 15 minutes and still be able to grab the hose leading down to the thermo. What is wrong? The guy I bought it from used it to pull a small boat. He said it started running hot when he would pull with it so he had a new radiator, thermo and clutch fan installed. Then he said the truck ran on the colder side. Now the thing just runs plain cold!
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98 Honda Accord with 2.3L has 354,000 miles on it and up until recently ran like it was still new. Have developed erratic idle speeds. When it is cold it idles around 1100-1200 rpm. When the radiator fans are on or the A/C compressor is on it runs around 800-900 rpm. These are normal speeds and great. However, when the engine is warm/hot, in PARK, radiator fans are off, and A/C compressor kicks off, the idle speed drops to what appears to be about a rough idling 500 rpm's and the engine can barely stay running. I've attempted to look for the obvious. I own the Honda Shop Service manual if there is a particular component or most likely suspect area I should start at.
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I have a 2000 F150 4WD 5.4 running Extremely rich to bank one. The O2 sensors for bank 1 are reading lean(0-50 mV) Bank two is completely unaffected. New plugs in Bank one, 3 new coils in bank one, all pvc lines checked with good vacuum. Previous codes : P0171, P0301-3. The Truck will barely move. Would a small leak up stream of the O2 sensors cause this?
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2008 F150 5.4L .. The truck lost all power the other day driving and barely made it to work. On the ride home it was still running horribly, like it just fell on its face. the check engine light came on. Went to autozone and put HEAT in the gas tank cuz the night before it was at quarter tank and temp went from warm to freezing(thought maybe condensation in tank).. Truck ran a lot better( not perfect). Drove around that day and it was fine. Pulled down the driveway and CE light shut off. Ran the code anyways and it was P0012..
Talked to a few mechanics and they said try replacing the Camshaft position sensors..did so and it ran worse. the truck hardly would idle or rev and shook violently..i shut it down right away. Then it threw 9 codes..Cam shaft position- over retarded timing bank 1(P0012), misfire cyl2, misfire cyl3, misfire cyl 4, random misfire, cam sensor bank 1, three of them were repeated codes..
I replaced the sensors back to stock and cleared the codes. the truck is running like it was in the beginning of the problem..No vilant shaking but falling right on its face at idle and any rpm..not drivable. Would rather do the work myself. very capable except for replacing camshaft phasers which i have heard could be the issue..Could it by the VCT seliniod, EGR valve, plugs, wires...Did just change the oil a week ago and cleaned and reoiled air filter.
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Nissan Frontier 2004 with v6, air, automatic 4x4.... I only have luke warm air coming into my truck. The switch on dash switches from defrost to floor or thru dash . Was thinking maybe a switch under dash not working maybe, but do not know where to start looking.
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Heat blows warm at best and A/C isn't all that cold. I want to believe its a blend door issue and dive into it this weekend and fix it but there isn't a single piece of foam coming out of any of the vents. Of all the systems on the car, HVAC isn't my cup of tea I don't know anything about it. What else could be the problem? I can live without A/C but the heat things must be fixed.
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Just had the truck in the dealership for a bad blend door/ heater core case. Heat would only blow out warm on the passenger side, blows cold on drivers side. Dealership replaced the case, heat works normal on both sides now. It was a little warm out yesterday so i turned on the A/C, frosty cold on passenger side, warm on drivers side, temperature does change when i select different temperatures (dual zone.)
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This is a 2002 4 Cylinder Camry XLE.It gets cold when running down the highway, but at a stop , AC gets warm.I have replace the cabin filer. A couple of years ago, replaced the AC MAG Clutch Relay, when AC light was blinking.But now I feel the condenser in front of the radiator and it feels very hot, and the fans never seem to come on.I can see the 3 Fan relays, and not sure where the ECT sensor is located, or whether that would be the problem.If the fans arent coming on at all, you would think the car would overheat?
Tested the motor on one of the two, with direct 12 volts to it, and it did not run.Tested the disconnected cable that would be supplying voltage to that motor and it read 13+ volts. So I would think it was a bad motor, but I would like to see the voltage on that disconnected motor go to zero, but not sure if that happens, or when?Guy suggested at parts place that sells the Two Motors, Fans, and Shield all as one unit for less than $100, that maybe the motor burned out because it was running all the time.
WHen should the electric motors not be receiving power?I read somewhere that when car starts that both are on low speed, and Always on when AC is on. But do one or both ever turn off? If I pull this shroud out with the two motors and buy the replacement, I just don't want to have the motor blow out, because there is something making it run all of the time.
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I am trouble shooting my temp gauge. I have a 1997 f350. I brought the truck a year ago and i have still not fix this problem. I install a new temp gauge and nothing changed. When ever the truck is running it reads cold and doesn't budge. Ive read that the gauge can be broken its self but during a few hot times over the summer. The gauge began to rise slower, never reaching normal temperature. A few times i messed with the heat and the gauge would shoot over the normal temp. The truck seems to run at a good temp sometimes hot though. The tube on top of the radiator is hotter than the bottom also.
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My truck was running rough when cold, I went to check the ficm voltage while wife was cranking and coolant shot right into the ficm and cooked the sumbitch. Stop laughing that stuff happens to me all the time. Anyhow, got a new ficm and truck wont start. Starter kicks out after a few revs. I ran my own solenoid wire to the starter and it cranks just fine. ficm at 48.5 koeo and cranking, icp 1100+, ipr from 14.8 to around 40%, ...
It takes a few seconds for the cam/crank to sync but it does. I changed the fuel filters and primed it, Got new batteries, and threw a crank sensor for s+g. With the key on and me cranking it using the solenoid wire, it almost starts. But from the key it will kick out after a few seconds. All fuses and relays are good. I hear the pcm also controls the starter, could that have cooked when the ficm went or would it blow a fuse? Diagnosing using a scangauge2 ....
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BMW's have a special way to bleed the system, does the VW passat have on too? Seems like I can't get the air pocket out and heat is barely coming in. I just put a radiator in and all the coolant obviously is gone, so I put new coolant in and the cars been idling for about 30 with the cap off letting air out and heat is barely coming in, am i missing something? Engine temp is NORMAL, in the middle, so NO overheating issues.
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The a/c in my 05 Saturn Vue suddenly began fluctuating from cold to barely cold. In May I replaced the compressor, condenser, and accumulator. It blew cold until 2 weeks ago when it started blowing cold when it felt like it... ... I really don't want to spend more $ or time with my mechanic... Should I just give it a Freon charge?
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So my wife was driving my EX today... she heard a noise and then the truck would barely drive. I went and checked it and i lost the exhaust pipe between cat and muffler (right below the second row) I also found 4 bared wires that had been ripped apart.
Exhaust broke loose and wrapped around drive shaft and ripped the sensor wires apart and threw the pipe somewhere? So I am assuming that there was an oxygen sensor located on that portion of exhaust that is now lost.
I thought no big deal I will just drive to a muffler shop and get it fixed, but the Ex would barely move. So i guess i will have to tow it, how I can get the truck to run missing the pipe and sensor.
My questions are:
Is that an oxygen sensor that goes into the exhaust pipe?
If so, can i just buy the sensor and pigtail, wire it and then drive to get exhaust fixed?
Is there a way for me to drive it without wiring in a new sensor instead of paying for a tow?
2004 6.8L limited....
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I have a 2004 fx4 with a 5.4L. i have an edge performance programer and these are the codes that are coming up....
1) P0121
2) P2104
3)P2106
4)P2111
5)P2135
I have cleared these codes and reset the main computer the truck barely starts and will not accelerate...could the spark plugs be an issue...
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The truck I'm working on is a 2003 f550 with a 6.0, and 382000 kilometers. My service truck died on me couple days ago, while running. As I rolled to a stop, I noticed that my temp gauge on the dash dropped to cold. (Truck was hot). Tried starting, and I have a crank, no start situation.
After towing it to my shop at work, I hooked it up to my scanner, and found that the pcm will not communicate with the scanner (otc genisis). I have no injector buzz with key on, wait to start light comes on for an abnormally long time. I have 48.3 volts on the ficm,(4 screw), and haven't been able to find any chafed wires as of yet.
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The truck always ran perfect till two days ago. went to start it in the middle of the day , it would barely start, when it did it was missing bad. then seemed to clear up a little after about 30 seconds but still missing. they thought they got some bad fuel. so they dropped the tank cleaned it all out and got new fuel, no change.
Him and a so called mechanic "kid from fire stone" played around switching coil packs around from the injectors with no change. He tells me that the two front cylinders , one on each side are not firing. that those two spark plugs are coming out fuel soaked after running the truck. He thinks it dropped a lifter or push rod popped out of place.
I took my A/E over and came up with codes p0106 - map sensor, and p0135 - 02 sensor. i cleared them and started the truck, shut it back off ran codes again. He also said they pulled the 02 sensor and it still ran the same.
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Got a 1995 Toyota Tercel. As the temps have dropped, I have started to use the heat again.
The heat comes on, but not nearly as warm as I remember. And now the temp gauge barely nudges - but does seem to nudge - above stone cold.
I checked the coolant today while the engine was cold. The reservoir is empty but the radiator is filled to the brim.
This isn't the first time this season it has been cold. My best recollection is that, until this week, the heater and the temp gauge had both been working fine.
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I have a 2001 Ford F150 Lariat. It has the 5.4L Triton motor. I was having starting problems as such the truck would crank and not start or crank, start and barely idle and stall within 5 seconds. It was NOT tripping any lights. I was told it was a possible fuel issue. I have since changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, as well as the hoses in the rear connected to the tank. Truck started, ran great, even seemed to have more power. Ran great for about a week. I was on my way out yesterday about 2 miles from home when the truck just stalled out on me. It is now having the same issues it was having before I changed the pump, filter, etc. What the issue may be? Clogged line? Fuel injector? If it is an injector how can I tell which one?
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So from what I have gathered online, it is an injector(s) issue. I've only had it happen to me twice at that speed but when I came to a stop afterward, my truck was barely idling.
I'm not sure if my sct programmer is able to show injector codes but it will show gp codes. I guess my question is are failing injectors that intermittent typically? Also, much luck with Rev X clearing that issue up?
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So I have had this occasional hiccup that has gotten more frequent. I figured since our weather has been extra cold (lows about 15 F, around 22 F in the morning), that the temperature had been contributing to the issue. My truck would hiccup and burp out some white smoke. At first it didn't throw a check engine or any codes. As of recently I would get a check engine light, but torque pro could not get any codes, they would be cleared when I cycled the key. Anyways, I finally got some codes yesterday because it happened again. The codes where P0603 and P0344.
So I ordered 2 new CPS from Riffraff yesterday (hoping that they will be here today so I can install one). Fast forward to this morning and i get the hiccup again except worse. Now my truck would barely reach 20mph and it constantly bucked. I limped my way to work (only 4 miles) and of course I got a check engine light but there were no codes that I could retrieve with Torque Pro again. I had read on another thread that the guy had an issue with a wire in the harness near the 42pin connector for the IDM. He replaced his CPS taped up the wire and it went away.
I'm at work and now I'm paranoid that I wont be able to make it home. Is there anything temporary I can do for the CPS, like maybe disconnect it and spray it with some contact cleaner, until I can replace it? I'm going to trace the wire harness to make sure there aren't any bare wires. I forgot to mention that the local stealership replaced the CPS for free due to recall less than 3000 miles ago...
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1988 ranger, its a automatic 4x4 v6 and is leaking tranny fluid real bad. Truck barley moves because fluid comes straight out...
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