Ford A/C :: Temp Gauge Reads Cold And Does Not Budge Whenever Truck Is Running
Nov 23, 2015
I am trouble shooting my temp gauge. I have a 1997 f350. I brought the truck a year ago and i have still not fix this problem. I install a new temp gauge and nothing changed. When ever the truck is running it reads cold and doesn't budge. Ive read that the gauge can be broken its self but during a few hot times over the summer. The gauge began to rise slower, never reaching normal temperature. A few times i messed with the heat and the gauge would shoot over the normal temp. The truck seems to run at a good temp sometimes hot though. The tube on top of the radiator is hotter than the bottom also.
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I have a 2002 F-350 6.8L, 4x4, crew cab, 8' bed, SRW, trailer tow pkg. I purchased it new in the fall of 2001. The truck currently has 54,000 miles on it (only gets used when I need to tow/haul something). It's kept in the garage and is in near showroom condition.
Everything on the vehicle is 100% functional except the transmission temperature gauge. Even when the truck sits for weeks, the needle will move to mid scale as soon as the key is switched on - haven't even started the engine yet! Put the scanner on it - no codes stored.
I'm attempting to trouble-shoot the TFT (transmission fluid temperature) sensor. Found some documentation online on the 4R100 transmission. It shows an electrical connector on the solenoid body with pins for the thermistor (so I can measure its resistance). However, I can't find a connector anywhere on my transmission that even remotely resembles the diagram I found online.
Question 1: When you first get in your vehicle and turn the key, does your tranny temp gauge read "cold" just like the engine temp gauge?
Question2: Does my truck have the 4R100 transmission? How can I verify that?
Question3: Looking for documentation on what connector and which pins are for the thermistor?
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The truck I'm working on is a 2003 f550 with a 6.0, and 382000 kilometers. My service truck died on me couple days ago, while running. As I rolled to a stop, I noticed that my temp gauge on the dash dropped to cold. (Truck was hot). Tried starting, and I have a crank, no start situation.
After towing it to my shop at work, I hooked it up to my scanner, and found that the pcm will not communicate with the scanner (otc genisis). I have no injector buzz with key on, wait to start light comes on for an abnormally long time. I have 48.3 volts on the ficm,(4 screw), and haven't been able to find any chafed wires as of yet.
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On my 97 X SOHC, I have a temp gauge that is rather erratic. It reads high even with the engine off and cold and rises when the engine is running to the point the "Check gauges" light illuminates. Then bounces to normal then back near red line. This cycle continues.
To evaluate this, I bought a scan tool and the ECT reads as expected, around ambient to start, gradual climb till the thermostat opens, then hovers there while the radiator does its thing. Heater works as expected. So I'm fairly confident that my X doesn't have a cooling issue.
What my questions are: Can I disconnect the temp sender so I'm not watching the gauge bounce around and then the Check Gauges light is available for other issues that arise?
Does the check gauge light also send a signal back to the PCM?
Can I do any damage to the truck or will the PCM throttle the power back and flash the Check Engine light if a real cooling issue materializes?
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02 6.8 4x4 excursion. When I start the truck cold, the trans temp gauge immediately moves to "running" temp. Not really sure how this happens, I'd figure that if the xducer was trash it would ride all the way high or all the way low. What's happening here? I'd sure like a functional gauge...
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My friend has an 08 4.6. He has replaced the thermostat with 3 different ones all with different temps, still nothing. Temp gauge reads normal but after driving it for a bit he can take off the radiator cap while it's running and not get sprayed in the face with coolant, almost like there is no pressure in the system.
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Mine is a 99 gls with the v6 and manual trans. I have 108,000 miles on it and mostly performs great except that my cabin lights are dead (moon roof still works, dash lights even the lights in the doors for the windows and locks light up but not the cabin lights and I can't find a dead fuse anywhere and the dealer looked at it for an hour with no luck). [URL]...
Mine is pretty intermittent at least over the last 6 months, but my temp gauge no longer reads anything and I've gotten a CEL twice now, this second time I pulled the code at autozone with an answer of 1106. I've had my 90k maintenance with the timing belt/water pump/coolant flush service.
I've also noticed when starting it up in the morning I'm getting quite a varnish smell out of it that my wife's 07 Rabbit doesn't produce and my mileage is still around 25 mpg for a 5 mile commute.
Now I see this is a pretty cheap part, so I'm going to wrench it myself but... where the heck is it? I've done the electrical replacement on my 96 jetta wolfsburg that had the 2.0 in it which was pretty easy but my passat seems to be hiding everything under the hood with fancy engine covers and stuff.
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I have a 1969 chevy c10 pickup. One of its problems is the temperature gauge was not reading. I grounded the sender wire to the engine block to deterimine if the sender was bad, and ever since the gauge reads hot all the time, even with the ignition off. Could I have fried the gauge?
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My temp gauge (which very seldom deviated form its position) is showing above normal temps. Yeah its over 90 here but this is unusual for my car to run hotter. I put in a new thermostat about 3 years ago. I've also been adding water/anti-freeze because there was a small leak (that I finally found in the hose) that I corrected. Could it be that my mixture isn't a 50/50 mix or is it my thermostat again? They say they don't last long anymore???
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I recently replaced my alternator. I thought I was very careful not to make anything worse but now when I'm driving I have temperature issues. When stopping or slowing down my temp. gauge goes all the way to cold, then as I accelerate the temp gauge rises to the middle. It has not gone past the middle and has never done this before the repair. Also, the truck has never overheated or had any thermostat or cooling issues before.
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I have a 2001 Excursion Limited V10. 146000 miles 2 wheel drive. I have had it about a year and this is my first winter to really have experience with her.
When the outside temperature is very cold and the engine is cold from sitting all night, at start up, the oil pressure gauge reads nothing and the oil pressure/temp idiot light is on. Only does this during the first very cold start up or after sitting and engine getting very cold again.
I can drive just a short distance (2 blocks) and both gauge and light go to normal and stay there for the rest of my drive. I am using a quality 5/20 oil and filter and the level is good. Warmer days it has never happened. Truck runs fine, smooth idle, no "limp mode". She has not had any recent work done. All the other dash gauges read fine.
There is something about really cold temperatures that have to be causing the issue , I think. ??
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I have a 95 ford f350 when u run it with the heat on the truck temp gauge says its overheating the heat will go from nice and hot to ice cold as soon as the temp gauge goes up to the red. I replaced the thermostat also checked for coolant leak cant find any but truck has strong anti freeze smell and the radiator keeps going low on coolant.
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I am looking at a 1997 F150 with a 5.4 in it, guy who owns it says if you drive it down the street the temp gauge climbs and then the truck goes into limp mode but if you check the engine temp under hood it is nowhere near overheating. Where I should start to look for a problem here? If this is too complicated I will pass on the truck, its not worth it to me to get this truck if it is going to be a nightmare. I have a 2000 with a 4.6 that runs great so this would just be a spare for me, but would like to have it because its in such nice shape.
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My 94 Ranger 3.0L 5speed 2wd temp gauge is staying on the cold side but the heater is working good and I used a laser pointing thermometer at the thermostat housing and got 180* after running for a while and I also noticed that the fuel economy had gone down along with the power. I was getting 340 miles to a tank but now I'm getting 280 per tank.
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2006 F150 King Ranch. My Air Conditioning no longer blows cold air. Additionally, the Temp Guage is pegged dead left. No movement at all even at normal operating temp. I've had the dealer replace 2 sensors and a wiring asy (XL3Z-14A411-AA). I still have the same problem. No cold air and the gauge is still pegged dead left.
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I have had this issue with the truck 2008 F-250 6.4L since I bought it a year ago. At first it seemed as if the truck wouldn't start whenever the water temp gauge was working while she was hot. When the gauge wasn't working she would start right up like a champ. Well a year later ( have only been driving it for 6 months) a full engine rebuild, new high pressure fuel pump ( injector pump on top the engine below the turbos) she still won't start when she is hot. What the issues are.
Right after the engine rebuild I was getting the p088 code which is for the hpfp but since I cleared the codes right after the engine was rebuilt I haven't gotten the code again. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump this last weekend hoping that it would solve all of my issues and she would be like brand new again, but it didn't do anything. When I ran codes right after I installed the high pressure fuel pump I got a few codes p0684 which is the glow plug control module p0284 ( google said) gear lever y position correct but I'm unsure if that's right.
P0528 which is the fan speed sensor circuit ( that was unplugged during the removal of the hpfp and power steering pump or the radiator) p0480 cooking fan circuit ( also unplugged ) p174e out put shaft wheel speed correlation ( not concerned about that one) p008c fuel pump control circuit p008d fuel cooler system ( taken out and unplugged using installation of new hpfp) p115a ( low fuel level forced limit power) that is from trying to start while she had a little bit of air in the system after replacement) p2291 injector control pressure to low- excessive cranking ( probably from the air in the fuel system again). I cleared all those codes once I got her up and running again. Checked for codes yesterday and the only one that came up again was the p0684. Where to check next for this hot start issues,and don't know what to do at this point.
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2002 S-10 2.2L ... Started noticing my temp gauge running around 170 degrees as it gets cooler outside. I changed the thermostat and noticed that the connector to the temp sensor was cracked, changed that too. Had to warranty replace the temp sensor because the first one didn't register on my dashboard gauge. Still didn't get heat above 150 degrees.
Warranty replace the new thermostat and still not getting heat above 150 degrees. Radiator cap test bad at 15psi, replaced radiator cap and still not getting heat above 150 degrees. The engine is running cool and the cabin heat is not as hot as it has been for the last 5 yrs. There are no engine codes stored, anti-freeze leaks and level is correct.
I'm lost as to why all the sudden the truck starts running cold and won't build heat.
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2006 camry temp gauge goes past H while car is running at any time. Fan still works anti freeze in radiator anti freeze in reservoir. When take the key out the ignition. Temp gauge drops to the middle(normal position) 15-20 later then gauge drops to C (normal position when key is out ignition). Car runs fine no steam no leaks no funny noises. Car has 68k / 4cycl.
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2003 ford explorer 4.6L. This truck will start and run rough high temp low oil light come on and temp gauge is pegged hot. Oil gauge is fine though, checked oil its fine.
I checked coolant reservoir its ok.
If I shut truck off and restart it will run ok and rev like normal and then all of a sudden go into limp mode and will misfire etc...
What sensor seems to be the main culprit?cht sensor???
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Just recently bought a 04 greg with 35000 on it one owner pretty much brand new. Its starting to get cold over here in va but I notice the temp gauge wasn't moving when warming truck up. After sitting for 25min it was still at 150 degrees. So I drove home about 10 mi away an when I got home it had just started to move up. This can't be normal.
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My F250 with V10 has developed an overheating problem. While driving, the temp gauge suddenly shoots to max, and the truck goes into limp mode. Turning off the truck and ignition, waiting a few minutes, and all seems to be well again - sometimes for only a minute, sometimes for several days. No steam leaking, the water in the reservoir seems to be normal temperature, the radiator is not overly hot, and the AC keeps on blowing ice cold. Me thinks it is not really overheating, it just thinks it is. So where to start? Change the temp sensor first, or the thermostat? It seems the hoses are fairly firm, I don't believe they are collapsing from suction.
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