Ford A/C :: Taking Longer And Longer To Start Cooling?
Jun 8, 2011
02 Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5 spd 115K.... My A/C seems to take longer and longer to start cooling/ When it does start cooling it seems that is is actually colder than it has ever been (original owner) and the control is more sensitive to the touch when moved. Being a 4 cyl it's easy to detect when the compressor kicks in and it seems each time it is taking longer to do so. If I stop the motor, it goes thru the same cycle of time or longer before cooling (compressor kicking in) again. No codes, No unusual noises.
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Ok I've got an 01 F250 sd 7.3 with 257k on it it just started talking longer to start than it should it will do it cold or hot even if I shut it off at the drive thru takes it like 10 sec or more to fire. My question is I thought about purchasing a autoenginuity to find the problem but not sure the best place to get and what model I should get.
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2003 accent. I had an intermittent starting issue, nothing serious. Then one day dead in the water. Had it in my garage so i changed all belts, Crank position sensor, starter and solenoid. It seemed to start different, a little longer than usual to start, but started. Drove it for about a week and dead again. Dont know if it was chance or not but as weather got colder, seemed to take a little longer to start. Cranks but does not fire. I can hear fuel pump priming. I took the spark plug wire and held it next to frame and did not see a spark. To double check i tried ether and still would not turn over. Assuming fuel is not an issue at this point. How ever i did get an evap code p0441 but it went away. I am stumped at this point. I am not very good at electrical on vehicles. I want to check coils, and work my way back but not sure if I am doing it correctly. Most vehicle videos don't have the same parts.
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On my 09 accent, it's been cranking slow/taking longer to start. Occasionally it won't even have the guts to spin the starter (clicking solenoid noise).
I checked the battery (<1 year old), and it has a resting voltage of 16.2 (?!) When running, it jumps to 17.4. Is this a bad alternator?
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Recently my 93 Ranger 4.0 has started to take longer to shift into 2nd gear and the rpms are way up there. shortened 2nd gear then 3rd will be fine and so on. This only happens after the engine goes completely cold. I took it to a transmission shop and they said tranny is fine...Other than this issue the truck is fine.
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I've had my 6.0 for 2.5 years now and got really acquainted with what makes what noise, and how long starts took etc. recently this morning, i had a longer start, longer than a normal long start (4-5 seconds). Felt too long to me, but it started and didn't turn it off to try again. Got to my destination, turn the truck off and brough up ICP, FICM, FICM SYNC and cranked and watched.
After 1 second ICP jumped to 600 then to 770 and 2-3 seconds later FICM sync finally read 1 and it fired. What can be causing the sync to take so long? I have had intermittent no starts before, maybe 4 in the 2.5 years i've had it and every time i have pushed on the fuse blocks by the driver batteries, and also pushed on the FICM connections to make sure everything was okay. That seemed to always work.. But no amount of pushing on them are solving the long start that is happening...
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Just recently I"ve noticed my Pri-v is taking longer, and not as often switching to EV. All these observations are after the car has been fully warmed up and driven for several miles with a sufficient battery charge. Previously it would always switch to EV at 43mph when letting off the accelerator.......and I could keep it going usually till about 45.... A quick let of the accelerator would almost always accomplish this. Recently it has not been consistent...a few times not even shutting off when the car is stopped. The car has about 88,000 on the odometer. I've always noticed when it does go from ICE to EV, the transition is not a smooth too. That I"m guessing is the transmission fluid?
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Taking longer and longer for key fob to open doors, etc. Assume the battery needs to be changed. Have no problem with other fob. How do you change the battery in the key fob for this year model.
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Alright so I've had this car for about six months now and the clutch was supposedly replaced by the dealer I got it at. The clutch usually grabs about half way up but sometimes it's higher. I replaced the master cylinder because it blew out, when changing my I take I noticed the slave was starting to leak so I replaced that about three weeks ago. Ever since then, the clutch seems to grab differently and seems to be taking longer to engage.
Now, I did the "slave mod" on the old one AND the new one so it's not that. Do you guys think the new slave is bad? I have high temp dot 3 in there (I try to only use the best fluids for my cars). It just doesn't seem to grab as hard as she used to. Like it takes a bit longer to engage. The clutch (should) only have 15k miles on it. The clutch parts are under warranty but I'd still have to pay for labor since it's a wear part. I'd like to avoid replacing it if it's that new u less it's definitely going.
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I've got a '12 GTI (bought 10/1/12) with just over 20k miles on it. Everything on the car is stock and original - pads, rotors, calipers - and the brake fluid hasn't been flushed yet. The last few months I've noticed an increasing sponginess to the brakes, the pedal taking longer to depress before I feel significant stopping.
Pads and rotors still look good. Fluid level's normal. At best it feels like maybe some air pockets might've worked into the fluid lines. At worst it feels like maybe a leaky master cylinder. I'm wondering if it's a common problem.
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Occasionally my 2003 f150 takes longer to start than Id like. Lets say 2-3 seconds before it fires. It turns over plenty fast so Its not a battery crapping out. Runs great once it lights. I replaced the spark plugs but that didn't change it. Once again this just happens every now and then. 120k on the clock. Should I suspect a fuel pump showing its age? Oh, I should also note I changed the fuel filter a few months back.
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I have an 05 diesel. I have noticed the last 3 days I needed to crank it slightly longer to start it and it takes a second before ideling normally. It usually fires right up and jumps to life. Today i drive about 45 minutes. Stoped for about 30 minutes and shortly after I started it back up the check engine light came on. Will the Ex flash you the codes or do you have to have a reader? Thought I would try Autozone tomorrow but not sure if they read deisel codes or not. I was suspecting maybe glow plugs but who knows at this point. It seems to be running fine and I checked all fluids.
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2007 Ranger 4.0.... Initial start of the day it cranks a bit longer than it should. After warm, it starts fine.
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2001 F 350 7.3 183,000 miles.. The problem is the longer it sits the harder it starts.. when it does start it runs VERY ruff!!! it takes 10 min or so to run on all cylinders.... This is my first diesel..
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2009 Impala, 54k, factory installed remote start will no longer start the engine.This problem just started with both remotes.When used in close proximity of the car this is what happens: 1st-attempt-I hear a short humming noise and lights flash, 2nd-attempt a click and lights flash, 3rd attempt (and there after)-no sound and no flash of lights.The remote lock/unlock feature with horn beep and lights flash works fine on both remotes.The car starts every time by key with no problem.Any thoughts of what may be wrong?
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My 2013 Passat SEL TDI has 40,000 miles on the clock and in the past few months I've noticed it's taking longer to start blowing cold air. I've had several summers already so I'm already used to it's performance in the hot summer months but this summer has been different. The A/C will not blow any cold air at all before the car gets going under load (it didn't need engine load before) and sometimes it just won't blow cold at all but just barely "cool" air. I'll sometimes be driving for a half hour and never get the A/C to really blow cold.
Other times, it'll blow just fine. It's the hit and miss performance that has me confused. I then bought one of those refrigerant bottles from an auto parts store that comes with a gauge to see if maybe I have lost refrigerant or it's low but when I checked the gauge the pressure was exactly where it needed to be. I just came off that dreaded 40K service at the dealership and am trying to avoid going back there at all costs...
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Recently purchased this 1996 Achieva. Had trouble starting it from the "get go". Had to turn the key and if the lights came on it would start when one turned the key further. If the lights (dash lights) didn't come on one would have to turn the car all the way off and try again. This process was getting longer and longer until it would not start at all. Mechanic says the computer is telling it that it is stolen. Also, it has a Pontiac steering column.
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I just started having an issue on my 01 7.3 f350 with 203k miles, it will crank much longer then normal to start. If you shut it off then try to restart right away it starts normal, if you wait 10 minutes long crank again. if you shut it off and turn key back on but don't start it you can wait an hour then start right away. IDM bad? Vacation in 2 weeks and I would like to get this fixed first.
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I got a friend of mine that owns a 2000 F350 7.3 with around 280,000 miles. He said that the past 2 days its been turning over longer then normal before it fires. Once started, engine runs same as it always has. No sputtering or hesitations, idles fine, etc. However today, he drove to work, shut it off, then went to start it back up 10 or so mins later and now it will only turn over. Said he's getting fuel and compression is good. Unfortunately i dont know much about Diesel engines.
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About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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I have a 2013 F250 with a 6.2L gas motor, 50k miles.
Recently, I've noticed it takes longer to start. The motor will crank at regular speed but will take longer to start. It's always taken longer than a single rotation from day one but lately it's gotten really bad.
Even more recently, I hear a ticking noise under load, or even sometimes at idle. It sounds like an exhaust leak or worn lifter noise. Could these somehow be connected? What this could be?
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