I have a leak in my A/C system. It is completely discharged. I bought some o-rings from my Ford dealer, but the system does not hold a vacuum. Is there an o-ring kit available somewhere so I can replace all of the o-rings in my a/c lines?
View 14 RepliesI purchased a new 2012 Toyota Avalon and had the dealer install a trunk spoiler before I picked it up. Unless the trunk is completely opened and seated, the lid falls down--most times while your head or hands are in the way. I went back to the dealership and they told me that the lifting mechanism was working correctly and that they had never heard of this happening before. They also said Toyota does not make a heavier duty lifting mechanism.
Their advise was basically get used to it because, after all, it is my fault because I requested the spoiler in the first place or to see a member of their sales staff and try to work out a deal on a new 2013 car. I cannot believe that I am the only Avalon owner who has a spoiler on their car. I have talked to the owners of other makes of cars who have spoilers on their cars and not one of them has this problem. Most will hold its position when lid is even less than 1/2 opened.
I have a '94 Ranger XLT with the 4 cylinder 2.3L motor. I recently failed my smog test here in CA because the evap system would not hold pressure. All the emissions were perfect, but it wouldn't hold pressure. I changed the fuel filler neck -- it was cracked -- but there is still a problem somewhere. Is there a diagram that shows where all the hoses are for the evap system? I'm thinking that some other hoses might be cracked since they have been there over 20 years. Is this a good place to start looking or should I be checking something else?
View 4 RepliesSo I was was tired of trying to tune my Holley 650 and finally threw in the towel and got a 600 Edelbrock. When the holley was on there the engine had the slightest surge but I was never able to pin down a vacuum leak. The PCV valve made quite the racket while running.
Now the edelbrock is on there and no matter what I did I could not get the idle below 750 (4 speed truck). I checked the carb, manifold, hoses, and boosters and no vacuum leaks. I disconnected the PCV port at the carb and plugged it and it immediately stalled.
I went down to the local speed shop and got a new PCV grommet that has a small opening (restricting) and some foam filter material in it. Got home and popped it in and the idle dropped right down to a near stall. Adjusted the screw and she's running fine.
Now for the question. Did I fix the problem or just band aid it? Has anyone heard of having to restrict the PCV circuit?
I have an Accel Gen vll EFI setup on a 59AB and plan on using a pressure regulator but it has a vacuum inlet fitting. I'm assuming it's to allow for more pressure on acceleration. When the vacum drops more fuel will be allowed into the fuel rail is my guess.
View 3 RepliesLong story short, I have a small vacuum leak in the 4wd system. I disconnected the lines going to the hubs to prevent grinding them to pieces as they are brand new. This, of course lock the front hubs in and disengages the X-fer case in 2wd.
It is not engaging in 4wd unless I select it, so I don't imagine it hurting anything in the X-fer case or anything. Other than the extra rolling mass, is this okay to operate at until I resolve my vacuum issue, provided I close all openings and places for trash to get in?
Since the 2150A was computer controlled it has no ported distributor vacuum advance port, correct?
If you have a distributor with vacuum advance and a 2150A carb, where do you connect the advance to if not the carb?
I picked up a renamed 2100 for my '72 and I found out choke vacuum control on the back of the carb is frozen. Are these parts still produced and if not is there another way to make it work?
View 10 RepliesI picked up a remaned 2100 for my '72 and I found out choke vacuum control on the back of the carb is frozen. I can't find anyone who carries it, let alone knows what it is. Are these parts still produced and if not is there another way to make it work?
View 13 RepliesI was using the method of spraying starter fluid around the intake and found a pretty significant vacuum leak around the throttle shaft on the drivers side. The carb is a 2 barrel holley. What are some different ways to seal a throttle shaft vacuum leak? Could I take it apart and seal it with a plastic O-ring for now?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 prius with the navigation package in the last month the compass goes berserk and the the navigation gets completely lost. I have done the recalibration and it may work for an hour or a day then just start wondering.
The xm radio works fine and when I get into the system check page by pressing info while turning the light switch from off to side lights four times all the systems say they are OK and the gyro voltage and direction looks good. This problem is with the original map cd and the versionb11.1 cd.
Have a 06 Passat which shows to low pressure on tyres, but can't find that it's anything wrong with the pressure - I'v tried to turn it off, and it actually turns off for a little while - then starts to warn again of low pressure.
I've heard it can also monitor spare tyre - but I don't have spare only this compressor unit stuff.
What might cause this? - can I turn it off for real with vag-com in any way ?
I decided to do some work on the engine bay of my '77 Datsun 280Z. I would like to know whether it is possible to remove the vacuum lines from the system, and if so, what would be the effect on the AC system? If I understand it correctly, the AC selector and mode doors are mechanically operated and vacuum lines assist in opening (i) the air intake door and (ii) the mode door?
View 10 RepliesSo the car broke down on my wife while on the way to work again. This time the coolant is completely drained from the system. It is all over inside the engine compartment so it's impossible to tell where the leak actually is. Within the last year we have replaced the pump and thermostat so I am going on the assumption that neither of those are an issue at this point.
Although I figure a stuck Tstat might cause too much pressure to build up and blow a line. Ill cross that bridge when the time comes. I also assume there should be nothing wrong with just putting water in there just to find the leak and then of course draining and putting the proper fluids in. Is this a wise course of action to take? You never know with these German things. I would of course use the same type of water that is used to mix with the coolant already.
My wife also stated that she did not see any smoke coming out of the tailpipe and only the engine. This means the engine itself should be safe and no gasket blew inside.
I've got a 2004 Silverado 2500, crewcab, longbed with a 8100cc gas engine. The truck has 80,000 miles and is in great condition. There's just one little problem - the climate cntrol system will occassionally go to completely hot. When it started a couple years ago, it was weeks between occurences. Now it's about every day and can be multiple times a day. When the system goes to hot, the only way to get back to the proper setting is to turn off the ignition and then restart.
It was happening on both the driver and passenger sides, but the first attempt to repair this issue was to change the envirenmental control computer - now the heat only happens on the driver side. The passenger side remains as set.
I ve been noticing that the alternator isn't charging correctly, or at least it seems like it. We drive short trips sometimes two times a day, a mile or less. One day, night actually, I noticed it started to not turn over with it's usual enthusiastic sound. When the batteries get discharged to a certain point, the voltage at idle will be less than 12 volts. If I rev the engine for a bit, the volts jump up, but at idle it drops back to 12 or below. Seems to me that it should be at least 12v or above if the batteries are discharged, and more towards 12.5ishV if the batteries are fully charged.
After I put it on a 6A charger overnight, the voltage upon starting is above 12, sometimes over 13. But if the batteries start to dwindle down from short trips, the voltage drops to 12 or below at idle.
I did install the smaller pulley a few years back, and that worked massively. I couldn't get 12V at idle before installing the smaller pulley. But now it seems like I'm back to that same situation before installing the smaller pulley.
So, I m guessing that a alternator bench test is in my future? The batteries are fairly new, tho they have been down to nothing at least twice from boneheaded moves by yours truely!
And, I'm speculating that this charging situation contributed to the recent FICM replacement that I went thru.
I have a 1983 Dodge W150 that has a problem. It stops running with the electrical system completely shut down. If the battery is taken out of the system, and then reconnected, it starts and runs fine. Some history: a trailer brake control was installed a few years ago. Where the wire ran from the battery through the firewall, the insulation chafed and eventually shorted out. The fuseable links were burned out. I disconnected the brake control from the battery and replaced the fuseable links with a fuse block. The truck ran fine for 18 months. It has stopped twice in the last couple of days. Apparently something like a circuit breaker is tripping and then resetting when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected. My questions are
1) what is the breaker likely to be intended to protect,
2) where would the breaker be found, and
3) what is the likely cause of the breaker tripping (a short, but in what system)?
4601 DBP, just under 35k on it. At idle, i hear a slight whistling almost like squeaking. I took it to my independent tech and he showed me that if he removed the dipstick for a second while idling, the noise stopped, due to lack of vaccuum, so he believes its in the pcv system. I am still under powertrain and obviously federal emissions 8yr 80,000. Go start your R and listen at idle inside the car for a whistle or squeaking noise that seems like its inside the passenger dash.
View 13 RepliesRecently I drove in to a huge puddle of water, and since then my car has not been the same. Two sets of problems started happening almost immediately.
Various functions on the cluster are not working, such as the speedometer (reads zero no matter what speed I go), odometer (remains at 28,787) and the gas meter which fluctuates constantly.
Also, the brake system is just out of whack completely. It simply isn't working well at all. Attached are two pictures of the dashboard.
I went to a local mechanic, and he suggested having the cluster and brake sensors replaced with brand new ones.
When the brake pedal is first depressed, it sounds like air is being pushed out of it, sort of like flatulence, and are less responsive. When i pump the brake, it fills with air and tightens. The brakes work when I depress the pedal all the way down. Also, I have to pull my driver-side door shut a few times before it will close and lock with the vacuum system. Otherwise it won't close. Eventually the door closes and I can lock it when I shut the door just right. (My mechanic and I are working together to find replacement locks from junk yards) Is this the master cylinder? Or could this be due to a leak in the vacuum system since my door does not readily close? Or is it something else entirely? 1978 Mercedes 240D...
View 4 RepliesI went away for a week and upon returning, I couldn't get my V6 to start. I couldn't get anything to work....auto lock, headlights......and then I discovered the battery has been discharged totally. I am really shocked as how could this have happened. I have checked everything but nothing seems abnormal as I remember checking every detail before locking up the car and leaving for my trip. This is the longest time which I did not use my car. Before that the longest was less than a day. Btw, the car is only 2 months old.
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