Ford A/C :: Super Hot Air Blowing Except When On Max Settings
May 1, 2011
Drove about 30 minutes to a wedding yesterday and A/C was working perfectly. Truck sat about 4 hours and was cool out when I started it to make the 30 minute drive back so I cranked the heat wide open until the cab warmed slightly.
Once it warmed a little I turned the setting back towards the cooler setting but the air just kept getting hotter. The only way I could stop the air from blowing out hot like it was set on max heat was to set the control on max a/c, all other settings blow max heat!
Oh, by the way, my truck is a 2006 F-350 XLT diesel CC 4x4 auto with the FX4 package
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Suddenly yesterday, my AC was blowing hot air on every setting except for Max AC. When on Max AC, then heater control valve closes but with just AC, it opens back up. for floor, defrost, etc. seems to work just fine, but it blows engine hot air at those places except for Max AC.
It seems as though the temperature control is stuck in hot or quit working all together, AND (I'm guessing here) that Max AC overrides the temperature control? That's the only thing that make sense to me.
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99 f250 4x4 7.3 superduty has no heat. A/c seems to work ok had similar problem last year and replaced heat control switch in dash. Same thing this year, a/c works fine but no heat when turned to red or heat setting. Blower works fine just blows cold air. What may be sticking? Getting cold in MD and (excuse me but) Johnson goes full turtle on my morning ride to work.
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Is it true that on auto setting there is no air blowing out of the center vents? It happened to me this morning with my 2016 GTI.
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My 2008 Elantra blows cold air, but just not as hard as it used to. At max setting, it's not blowing hard enough.
Also, my steering wheel starts to shake pretty bad going 70+ mph. What could be the problem for this?
I don't know the first thing about cars!
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History: A few months back I had a leak repaired in my cooling system. I noticed the other night that my radiator was nearly empty again, so I've filled it back up, but haven't fixed it yet.
As summer is over, I no longer need my AC. However that caused me to notice that at its coolest setting, the vents are blowing warm air (maybe 15ยบ warmer than outside) and that seems high to me.
My immediate thought is that the heater control valve may be leaking/damaged/corroded.
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What torque setting I should use for lug nuts on a 2000 F-350 dually?
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2002 - f250... I originally posted this issue in July of '03. Nothing has changed.
1. At max ac, regardless of how hot it is, the ac clutch cycles due to low pressure once the cabin temp reaches about 78 degrees. This is not acceptable or expected in my opinion.
2. I have run extensive tests, done this for years, and the conclusion is that there is too much pressure drop in the evaporator. I'm seeing 5-7 psi drop measured using a Fluke digital temp probe, insulating the probe tip around the pipe. Compare outlet of orifice tube several as far away from orifice as possible and comparing to outlet temp of evaporator where it comes out of the plastic shrowd. Convert temp to pressure.
I've seen many posts over the years of people not happy with '99 to '04 ford truck ac operation at cruising speed. I have confirmed that the compressor is cycling way too much to cool the cab down. I even ran an experiment where I completely blocked the condensor to raise the head pressure and the compressor still cycked at 1500 rpm's with the cab above 75 degrees on a 90+ degree day.
My next step is to blow out the evaporator and see how much oil and junk I get out of it. I'm also considering taking the evaporator out and trimming the rubber gasket that is around it. It is blocking about an inch of the coil face all the way around.
My conclusion still is that the evaporator just isn't loading up enough as if it's partially clogged. There is only about 2 psi drop between the outlet of the evaporator and the compressor.
The compressor cuts out at 21 psi so the low pressure cutout switch is working properly.
What should I use to flush the evaporator out? Will mineral spirits do it as long as I blow it out real well and make sure I get all of it out? Also wondering if I should blow out the condensor thinking maybe there is something clogging it up.
In spite of some folks on this forum saying it is normal for the compressor to cycle at cruising speed, that is a correct statement depending on many factors. In my case, the cycling is not normal or expected. I have also tried:
1. VOV
2. Larger orifice
3. 14 oz charge over what the sticker says
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I recently purchased this remote starter and I installed it and had a local dealer program/cut the key.
I have an XLT without the message center. Do I have the manual temperature setting for when the remote starter is used? It has not worked either way as far as i can tell but it has also been very mild temps in illinois at 55-65 in the morning.
If I do have it, is it a setting i must engage somehow? I looked in the manual but could not seem to find anything.
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The left Warn Premium hub has started rotating out of the Free setting, this seems to happen at or near highway speeds. A tell tale sound is then produced, I assume from the splines contacting. It does not rotate all the way to lock. There seems to be less resistance on this side now than the other when locking. Hubs have been installed for 3.5 years, problem started a few days ago, haven't been locked in a couple months.
We've had torrential rains for the past week with no end in sight due to the tropical storm bearing down on us so I figured I'd ask here first before pulling the hub in the rain (no garage).
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I tow a 5th wheel with my 2014 F-250 that has an factory TBC. I just installed Electric over Hydraulic disc brakes on my 5th wheel and was trying to see if there was a setting I needed to change on the TBC to tell it that is now E/H versus E. In the Information section of the dashboard display it talks about the controller actuating electric drum brakes but the manual talks about it being able to do electric AND E/H. What I need to do here...if anything?
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2011 F250. My radio's audio settings are resetting back to default when my truck sits a couple of days. I know there is one member that has(d) this issue. I am still under warranty but thought I would ask what or if there will be a fix.
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this doesn't make any since to , what's going is, sometimes the AC starts blowing warm air, I found out if I goose it I can hear what sounds like the damper door slamming shut, then AC starts blowing cold again. I changed out electric vacuum pump, but it still does it, starting to get worse & its hot.
Truck is a 2002 f250 powerstroke, the way I understand it, is only thing vacuum pump is supposed to control is AC & 4 wheel locks, my truck is only 2wd. I don't understand why when when I goose it ,it goes to working, what can I do to fix this.
I just found out the " heat and cool "adjustment is electrical, not vacuum, it goes to something under dash, but what it is, heat strip, reastat(sp)??? where and what damper am I hearing. It is not like heater is on ,not that hot, feels like ambient temp, I am at a loss...
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I have followed the vacuum lines but don't see any holes or cracked lines. I dont have the ESOF hubs so that is ruled out. Also checked the connector on the vacuum pump to make sure it still had power. Everybody says that when I turn the key to acc I should hear the vacuum pump running. I don't or do I feel it moving. Am I on the right track? I don't want to replace if not bad. Do all vacuum pumps run on keyed power? I honestly don't remember hearing it run before but that doesn't mean anything with my memory.
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My problem had been intermittent for last few days. I have a Ford Crew Cab - 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel. The ford store told me it would cost hundreds of dollars to chase this short- to wait til it finally burns out then - bring truck to them.?
My fuse # 45 a 10 AMP fuse . Keeps blowing out. This fuse controls the gauges on dashboard and fuel peddle. I can start engine and if gauges come up like they should- I can place into driver - and give engine fuel from peddle- gauges down dead and no fuel go to motor. It just idles and still runs and will still move forward or backward. But only at idle speed.
I could replace blown fuse - #45 - 10 amp and it would a the first few times would go and work normally.
Now everytime I replace fuse it blows fuse - sometimes after putting 10 or more fuses in- one might work until I stop or put into park. Then fuse blows again??
Last night and today it took no less than 20 - 10amp fuses to get close to home and end up straight wiring with a small piece of electrical wire - severing as a jumper- it ran great - til I stop at mail box and got mail - saw slight smoke and pulled wire quickly out and idled down driveway to house..
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Started my truck the other day no problems,minute into the start truck shuts right off like someone turned key. Checked fuses , #30 fuse under the column was blown, replaced it and tried to start truck. No luck fuse keeps popping. After changing again i was able to get truck started for a second and POP goes the fuse?
1999 F550 superduty 7.3....
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1999 ford superduty keep blowing the 30 amp fuse under the dash, want let it start, why this is happening and the cause of it.
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I have 2002 F250SD, The horn just starts blowing by itself. Bump the horn switch and it stops for a couple of weeks. I've looked at the wires to the fuse box and no wires shorting out the horn wire. I read some very old posts but nothing conclusive was ever decided on, just a lot of guessing. The horn switch has always been sensitive.
Somebody said the air bag is warming up in the sun and expanding causing the horn to blow. Somebody said the horn relay, but in 55 years of working on trucks, I have never had a horn relay act like that. I'm told the horn relay is built in the back of the fuse box and it all has to be replaced. Some say the clock switch. I don't know what that is or where it is. I guess inside the steering wheel. Is it hard to replace?
Where do I go from here....
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Sitting in the house, heard a horn blowing and ran outside to find my F350's horn was blowing. When I pushed on the horn button on the steering wheel it quit. Couple of hours later, it started blowing again. Pushed the horn button to make it stop and removed the fuse so it would not start blowing again. Did a forum search, but didn't have any luck. Short in steering wheel?
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Why I"am blowing #19 fuse it is a 10 amp fuse. It is in the passenger compartment fuse panel. It controls the auxiliary powertrain control module (diesel only),Instrument Cluster, GEM Module, Overdrive Cancel Switch, Idel Validation (Diesel only), Overhead Console and Diesel PCM via Clutch. I would like to know where to start looking to solve this problom.
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My husband and I have 3 Excursions, V10, 6.0, 7.3 and I have a 6.0 250 crewcab. 3 of the 4 now blow air or heat from just the defroster unless your going at a slow speed.
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