Ford A/C :: Selector Stuck On Dash Vent Position
Aug 9, 2014
I have a 2004 F250 6.0 truck. My vent selector is stuck in the 'dash vent' position. I can't switch it to defrost, floor, or anything else. This past winter I noticed that heat would blow well but only through the dash vents. Now that summer is well underway I noticed that the AC blows through the dash vents also, but it doesn't blow very cold. I checked the freon, topped it off (didn't overfill), and still have the same issue. I checked the fuses and all are good also.
Of course, moving the selector to Max AC doesn't work either. Does this all point to the blend door motor? I hope not as the reading I have done means that this is one tough project to tackle.
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There is always something.... I just drove my girlfriend's new 2003 ranger edge home from the seller. Real nice truck. I noticed the heater selector doesn't change the air flow. It is on full blast for the defrosters, and is also trickling out of the floor and dash vents. No matter where you put the selector, thats the only place the air comes out.
The temp control seem to work OK, when you turn it on cold, you get cold air and visa versa. Even on AC and MAx AC... air out the defrosters. It's cold when you turn the temp control to cold.
I did some searching here and gather some info on checking the vac lines etc. Everything looks in place but one detail. The vac ball under the hood under the air box has 2 ports on the front end, and only one grey line going into it. The other port has what looks like a rubber boot and part of a very short vac line broken off it.
I looked, I cant find any loose vac lines. I'd like to know if this second port is suppose to have a second line on it, and where does it go? What color is it? Is this the reason the vent selector isnt working?
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I have a European Phaeton 3.2 litre V6 (gasoline) from 2003 that is giving me some problems. When I am finished driving I put the gear lever to parking position and turn off the ignition. I then get a message "Move selector lever to position p" and the key is stuck in the ignition.
So far, I have been able to get the error message away (and with that also been able to get the key out) by starting the car and move the gear lever around. Some times I have managed by only starting the system (by not holding my foot on the brake pedal). But tonight I couldn't get it fixed after numerous tries. I then simply waited in the car, because I didn't really know what to do, and after maybe five minutes the system shut down (energy saving mode?) and I could finally get the key out.
When I tried google the error message I found some topics about it on the Touareg forums, but they got the error message while driving and it had to do with the keyless system (which my car doesn't have).
What might be causing this problem? My local VW dealer is not very used to Phaetons (I am the only on in my town with one).
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Today when I head home I was getting the message "Move Selector Lever to Position P." It would come and go. No other lights or warning what so ever were lit. What this message was for and why it was displaying??
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My driver's side air vent is stuck in the open position. I can coax it down with a piece of wire, and it will then (sort of) engage with the motor and move up automatically when activated (again with a bit of coaxing), but then gets stuck again... Not sure if it's the motor or gears/teeth on the vent itself...? Looking for instructions for removing the motor? Apparently it's straight-forward...?
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My daughters 2000 Grand Am's 2.4l, vent selector is not working, right now all the vents are wide open. I took the control panel off and found that I wasn't getting any vacuum from the back of the knob, took the passenger underside and glove compartment off found the vacuum lines and wasn't getting any suction from there either. Where the vacuum should be coming from, I suspect either a bad hose or canister but I have been unable to locate it . Looking for diagram for the HVAC vacuum line. I really don't want to take the whole dashboard assembly off.
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2002 F150 XL... My heat & AC work fine, but the only position the fan selector switch will actually blow any air is on high. Bought an OEM replacement switch and installed it but the issue still exists.
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I am Having a problem on my 2005 Phaeton which has a 3.2 engine. Last time I drove it was yesterday and had no problems. This morning, I'd turn the key and it give me various error message."Move selector lever to position P/N" ...
I tried to move it but with no luck , the message is still there and I also noticed that the light on the shift that indicates that I need to press on the break to start is not glowing. This is not the 1st time I had this error but before I had to leave it for a while and it will start ...
I really love my Phaeton and it has only 75,774 kilometres on , so it is quite new ...
You can see the error message and the light indication below in the pictures ....
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The gear selector on my 2005 Mazda 3 with automatic transmission is difficult to move between P, R, N, and D positions. It does not "click" or fall into position like it used to. It has gradually gotten worse. When the car is in Park, it seems to not want to go all the way up into the Park slot. Even though the car actually parked, the P will not light up on the dashboard, which sometimes causes the car not to start when the key is turned. So sometimes I have to put it in Neutral to start.
Now the problem is that when it is in Drive, it will "fall out of gear". I put that in quotes because it is still in drive, but it was shift up to a higher gear if i don't physically pull the gear selector knob back. For example, if i'm driving and the car is in 4th gear going 60mph, and the shifter know slides up an eight of an inch, the D light will go off and the car will move into a higher gear (not sure which one, feels like 2nd or 3rd) and the engine will rev up. It doesn't feel like neutral.
Is there anything I can do myself? I plan on trading in the car in the next couple months, but I'd prefer to not have to get it worked on until then.
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My Excursion is having an issue with the 4x4 system. The. 4x4 selector switch on dash lights up properly for 4x4, but the auto hubs don't actually engage. The hubs will lock only if I manually lock the hubs. I can hear relay click, so I don't think its electrical. The hubs had new o rings installed when I did front ball joints a few thousand miles ago, and the 4x4 worked fine up until today.
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This past Sat, when I started the car in the morning, noticed that the Gear selector indicator in the MFD is stuck. The display background is reversed and moving gears does not change the display, in the regular or sports mode. When I go from P to R (or D), I occasionally have a jerk. I drove the car car a bit since and no other apparent issues. It is a Triptronic.
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I am the proud new owner of an 2004 GX 470 4X4 with 103K. I don't know how much cross over there is to tundra solutions. But, I own a 2000 Tundra, and I've been over there for a while as Listen Up Sonny. Anyway, I purchased the truck with two issues:
1. The 90K maintenance has been "deferred." I'm getting it into the shop for timing belt, waterpump, pulleys, and seals. I am going to do the spark plugs and fluids.
2. The issue I am still trying to figure out is that the dash shift indicator light for the High/Low gear shifter is stuck in Neutral. By this, I mean no matter where you shift the gear, the light indicates "N." I don't believe the transfer case is actually stuck in neutral since the car drives fine. I can get the center differential to lock and unlock. I am not sure if the transfer case will shift into Low as I couldn't really tell when testing it on a dirt low.
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I have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
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I was driving down the highway tonight and slid the sunroof back. When I went to close it I heard a loud click and got concerned. When I touched the butt to slide it again, it didn't move. I tried the other button and it didn't do anything. Just clicked. So, I finished my trip home as it sounded and seemed sealed. When I got home, I tried the buttons again, and only the told function worked, but only to the point of raising it.
Now I can't lower it.
2012 King Ranch completely optioned out. Never had any issues from it until last month when I had the A/C replaced at Ford. They broke my original factory windshield in the process and ended up replacing it, with another original, free of charge. I don't wanna jump to conclusions, but could they have damaged the sunroof intentionally to try to get me back there to recoop their losses?
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Just got my 2013 Elantra Limited last weekend. It appears the car is having some issues with the transmission shifter. I am not sure if its tranny related, but I highly suspect it is. Dealer gave me the usual bs not being able to duplicate the symptoms.
1. Intermittently, gear selector would get stuck in neutral, when I try to put the car into P, after a long or a short drive.
2. I would have to wiggle the shifter to get into P, or I would have to shift to D, and then I am able to shift back into P.
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I have 2001 EX with the 7.3 and my rear vent windows stuck open and I am stumped as to what might be the culprit. There isn't any power getting to the switches in the overhead console.
I replaced the relay 204 in the engine compartment, I believe that is the correct one.
Where the actual fuse is located for this and its number? Because both of them are stuck open not just one side.
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2011 F350 loaded. Stuck on vent mode. Found actuator can feel it trying to move but something is stuck. Tried to remove the actuator but not enough room between the motor and a steel bracket welded in to the dash. (Not removable). Do I have to remove the dash ? (I suspect something fell inside and is stopping the big vent door from moving as i did pull the motor far enough away to move all the door except the vent door.
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I have a problem with my vent selector on my truck. It's a 2005 f350 lariat. The vent is stuck on defrost, some times after a few mins I can get it to switch to floor but not always. I have replaced the pump, checked tank for cracks, disabled and plugged the auto hubs. The pump will shut off so I assume it's not a leak. I believe it's in the switching unit, can these be repaired? I found a lot of dust and dirt in the vac tank that had been sucked through a bad hub. I think it may need to be disassembled and cleaned. I have seen videos showing how to replace the orings in the older units. Are the newer style remote ones the same?
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Recently my car horn became stuck in the on position even though I was not driving the car or using the horn. In fact, it got stuck in the middle of the night!! To stop the horn, I simply removed the fuse for the horn, but I was curious what sort of issue would cause this problem and what should be done to fix it.
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Went to use my windshield defrost this morning on my way to work. everything went fine. Leaving work I selected the face vents with my AC on and it only blows hard from the windshield vent even though its already been depressed.
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None of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
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